Salme Pleated T-Shirt – A merry make for May!

 

 

 

Adorable! this little shirt turned out to be everything I was hoping it would be. Comfy, fresh, and different. Something new for spring and summer and my May Garment of the Month.

This is my muslin, but I went ahead and did it in a very nice white broadcloth from Monika Chiang, by way of Fabric Mart. It is such a nice weight for a blouse and has a wonderful hand and finish. Feels a bit like tissue linen. Glad I ordered 4 yards 🙂

I’m in love with the pleats…they start just above my bust apex, but I imagine the placement will be different for everyone. They’re 1″ deep, 1″ apart, and on the front only. Super easy to do – just fold on the right side and stitch.

Since the needleplate on my machine doesn’t have a 1″ marking, I put a piece of masking tape across it to make a guide for sewing the pleats. I do this a lot, even for the markings I do have, if I’m doing parallel rows.

Sewing notes and a couple little changes to the pattern …

I drafted my pattern from the size 12 (I’m 5’7″, 36.5″ bust), but cured the side seams out to size 16 at the bottom/hip. I also drew my pattern with 1/2″ seam allowances, instead of the recommended 3/8″ (seam allowances are not included in the pattern). Just my preference. All my seams are stitched and then serged together to finish.

The neckline was just too high for me, much higher than it looks on the envelope. I think it would look nice under a suit jacket, but this is Florida and I’m retired, so I lowered it, back and front, and drafted new facings for both.

Lowered 2.5″

Lowered .5″

The inside front and back…

 

And I drafted new sleeves, a la Duchess of Cambridge, i.e., elbow length. Great look! I simply added 4.5″ to the length and drew the side edges straight and parallel. The hems on both the sleeves and the blouse are finished at 1″, to echo the 1″ pleats.

On both the original front neckline and my new one, I have a small gaping issue. That hollow chest thing 🙂 I’ll address it in my next version with a redraft to take up the extra bit.

For a woven blouse without bust darts, this works really well! I have no issues with diagonal lines or pulling at the bust or arm.

And it looks good worn out, too…great length.

Saw a centipede on the patio…I do not like them! but if they get in the house I usually just pick them up and put them back outside. Gosh, I’m nice.

How about those cargo jeans? Will blog them soon, I have another pair in a fun floral. Ah, summertime.

Ciao! Coco