Salme Pleated T-Shirt – A merry make for May!

Adorable! this little shirt turned out to be everything I was hoping it would be. Comfy, fresh, and different. Something new for spring and summer and my May Garment of the Month.

This is my muslin, but I went ahead and did it in a very nice white broadcloth from Monika Chiang, by way of Fabric Mart. It is such a nice weight for a blouse and has a wonderful hand and finish. Feels a bit like tissue linen. Glad I ordered 4 yards 🙂

I’m in love with the pleats…they start just above my bust apex, but I imagine the placement will be different for everyone. They’re 1″ deep, 1″ apart, and on the front only. Super easy to do – just fold on the right side and stitch.

Since the needleplate on my machine doesn’t have a 1″ marking, I put a piece of masking tape across it to make a guide for sewing the pleats. I do this a lot, even for the markings I do have, if I’m doing parallel rows.

Sewing notes and a couple little changes to the pattern …

I drafted my pattern from the size 12 (I’m 5’7″, 36.5″ bust), but cured the side seams out to size 16 at the bottom/hip. I also drew my pattern with 1/2″ seam allowances, instead of the recommended 3/8″ (seam allowances are not included in the pattern). Just my preference. All my seams are stitched and then serged together to finish.

The neckline was just too high for me, much higher than it looks on the envelope. I think it would look nice under a suit jacket, but this is Florida and I’m retired, so I lowered it, back and front, and drafted new facings for both.

Lowered 2.5″
Lowered .5″

The inside front and back…

And I drafted new sleeves, a la Duchess of Cambridge, i.e., elbow length. Great look! I simply added 4.5″ to the length and drew the side edges straight and parallel. The hems on both the sleeves and the blouse are finished at 1″, to echo the 1″ pleats.

On both the original front neckline and my new one, I have a small gaping issue. That hollow chest thing 🙂 I’ll address it in my next version with a redraft to take up the extra bit. 
For a woven blouse without bust darts, this works really well! I have no issues with diagonal lines or pulling at the bust or arm.
And it looks good worn out, too…great length.
Saw a centipede on the patio…I do not like them! but if they get in the house I usually just pick them up and put them back outside. Gosh, I’m nice.
How about those cargo jeans? Will blog them soon, I have another pair in a fun floral. Ah, summertime.
Ciao! Coco

29 thoughts on “Salme Pleated T-Shirt – A merry make for May!

  1. Well done on the blouse! Nicely pleated at the front. Hmmm … I think I can hack this from Grainline's Scout Woven Tee. Also it would be ideal with some semi-sheer fabrics. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  2. It would be beautiful in a silk. Any kind of silk 🙂 Or a chiffon with a slip-like lining. It's so comfortable to wear. I have to say my bug tolerance is selective – some just get euthanized right away, you know, the nasty ones!

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  3. Thank you, Lisa! I was so happy to find this pattern. The pleats across the front make sheer fabrics so do-able with just a cami! And it's so easy to do.

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  4. Thanks, Kathy! For the chest – if it's just a little gaping, say 1/2″ or less, I just tilt the top of the pattern off-center when I place it on the fold so the neckline is taken up a bit. If it's more, I put on the garment and pinch out the fabric out to the side of the neckline center, to figure out small darts. Kind of have to determine the best place for this so that no pulling appears at the armhole or bust. Next step is to transfer the darts to the pattern tissue, slice the darts out, tape the tissue closed, and redraw the pattern with the new neckline. This works for gaping back necklines as well!

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  5. Thanks, Angela! Bugs…centipedes are so weird! But at least they curl up when they're touched and cooperate with being tossed out the door! Like big versions of pill bugs. We had a lot of those when I was a little girl, used to play with them 🙂

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  6. That's a lovely top – wouldn't it be lovely in a soft filmy silk? Pants are gorgeous too. And I would do just the same with a centipede and do with the creepy crawlies I have here 🙂

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  7. So funny because I'd just commented on a mmm14 make of your very same shirt right before visiting your blog! Love your shirt! Looks great and really like the changes you made. Thank you for explaining more about the shirt. Those are cute pants too!

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  8. That's really cute! I had never heard of this company until I saw your review, great find. This is so perfect for those sheer voiles that I can never find patterns for.

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  9. A lovely blouse! Thanks for explaining your changes so clearly and helpfully, too. You are nice to the centipede:) I can't say we are that kind to invaders around here.

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Thank you for stopping by! comments are welcome and appreciated - Coco

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