Alert, Grainline Studio fans – a dress! And it comes in two beautiful sleeveless versions – one with unadorned shirt styling, and one (which caught my eye) with a partially gathered skirt.
Both have classic shirtdress styling: a button-band front, yoked upper back with a dropped front shoulder, front bodice pockets, and shirt-tail hemlines. And yes, bust darts.
- I drafted from a size 14.
- Once the shoulder seams were sewn, I reshaped the front to a V-Neck and dropped the center back neckline about 1/2″. And drafted a facing for the neckline.
|Fabric: Cotton calico from Holly Lobby|
- The right bodice front has an attached button band, while the left front is has a cut-on facing. I used the left front pattern for both sides, eliminating the attached band. Topstitching gives the appearance of a banded edge.
- I used broadcloth interlining in both front facings, instead of fusible interfacing. Often I find that fusible interfacing locks and stiffens a facing too much – I wanted to be sure that the front bands were fluid given their length.
- I added side seam pockets 3.5″ below the waistline.
- I also redrafted the front skirt to be same length and shape as the back skirt. And flattened and lengthened the curve at the side seam so it would be a bit more forgiving to hem! My reasoning for changing the front length – well, I’m 66 and just don’t wear mini’s anymore!
- The pattern calls for faced armholes. I trimmed the armholes instead and used self-fabric bias binding to finish them. This is a comfort thing for me.
- The bust dart is placed as expected with a Big 5 pattern – I moved it down 1.5″.
- Another adjustment I typically make, I narrowed the side seam at the armhole by 5/8″ and cured it down to the waist.
- The bodice length was spot on! And I’m 5’7″.
- I added 5/8″ to the hem allowance, just so I could be more generous in my hem turn.
Seems like a lot! But it really wasn’t. I generally spend a lot of time with a pattern before I draft my tissue, it’s part of what I enjoy most about sewing.
A few more views on Emile…
About the pattern: Beautifully drafted and includes 1/2″ seam allowances, my favorite since I like to cut/serge my seam allowances. The instruction booklet is so well done, it should make this dress approachable for many levels of sewists. I’ve seen a couple versions of this dress on Kollabora and in the blogosphere. I’m smitten.