I’m not a whinger at heart. And I don’t like to be negative in my blog posts – sewing is a happy pastime for me. But the Gabby Dress pattern from Tessuti is making me grind my teeth! So I’m doing an interim moan post. That way my final post will be littered with my usual rose petals.
The mystery tour really begins with the decision to buy the pattern. I’ve been thinking about tent dresses lately, and the Gabby dress sorta, kinda looks like a tent dress. I’ve looked at lots of vintage ’70s patterns, but I kept coming back to this one.
I like to support indie designers in general, but there’s always a compromise.
- For instance – Is it really a tent dress? Tessuti doesn’t provide any line art for the Gabby. Not anywhere. And all their pics of it are in dark fabrics on models in poses that just don’t show the dress lines. aarrggh.
- It’s a PDF – Tessuti says to use an A4 printer (that’s not really a printer type, it’s a paper type, but I’m being picky). Most PDF patterns have enough margin to print on both A4 and letter size paper. But Tessuti’s requirement made me wonder if their pattern printed all the way to the edge of the paper!
OK, I went for it. It’s Halloween month.
Surprise, surprise, surprise – I paid a lot for this thing and got a hand-drawn pattern! Not even well-drawn. Sloppy, wavy lines. I don’t want art, I want a professionally drafted pattern!
What size do I wear? Tessuti doesn’t include any garment measurements, other than the length of the short and long dress. There are no measurement markings on the pattern. I thought I’d get a little bit more with the pattern, since the online info is so sketchy. Ha! Here’s what’s provided:
- XS, S , M and L equivalent to (AUS) sizing 8,10, 12 and 14
So I went looking for AUS sizing and found OnlineConversion.com. I entered 10 in the Australia box and the U.S. conversion was size 6/Small. Not me! AUS size 12 is much closer to my U.S. RTW size.
Once I got the pattern taped together, I did some measuring. The S and M are actually very close in size, but I drafted the M to get the width and length through the upper bodice, front and back.
The finished Medium bust at my apex is 46″, and the low hip is 62″. The latter is expected, as this is a tent dress. I knew I was in for an adjustment at the upper side seam, but that’s OK.
I’ll say something nice here – this is a very forgiving design for lumps and bumps!
To end on an up note, a gift. Here’s a look at the lines of the pattern:
And what I hope is a helpful tip for anyone who finds the sleeves are not comfortable (Saturday 10/4 – I just edited this a little bit, after working with the pattern again this morning):
I’m not using the sleeve, which means I am reshaping the armhole a lot. The back armhole is actually quite a bit longer than the front armhole. And both are a little too long for this style sleeve and bodice. I think this may be why the top pulls around the lower arm when it’s worn. Some things to try: I would bring the lower edge of the armhole up about 1/2″ to 3/4″ and narrow the width of the sleeve accordingly. I would also try folding the back of the pattern, midway down the armhole, effectively shortening the back armhole. Looking at a pattern that fits well would be a good starting point for working with the alterations.
I’ve almost finished my muslin in the pic above, it’s really cute. And I’ll the doing the post soon.
Hope everyone enjoys a nice weekend. Bye for now – Coco