What a delightful pattern!
I had the best time with this project – all of it: muslin, fitting, sewing, tailoring, and, at last, wearing. I’ve always loved wearing trousers, and now I can make my own.
The pattern is marked for long pants and shorts. But I made this pair at a cropped length, with a finished out-seam of about 34″. My fabric is a cotton/linen blend, and I don’t want to worry over shrinkage in length. I cannot stand when long pants shrink above a useful length. And it’s surely a liability with linen and cotton.
BTW, I made my muslin in the shorts length, in inexpensive broadcloth. After writing all over them during fitting, I tossed them. But they had lots of potential for very nice-looking walking shorts.
This was a four-day project. As others have noted, these pants are not a quick sew – they’re fashioned after men’s trousers, with all the implied detailing.
On the front: A generous zipper and fly (a 7″ zipper is used), two deep pleats, and slanted pockets.
I used 6 belt loops instead of 5 (I like the look and function of 2 loops at the center back). The pattern doesn’t have back pockets – one could add them easily, but I don’t put back pockets on my pants anyway. They bug me (except, of course, on jeans).
And back. And I’m very happy with the way the back fits.
I’m laughing now – I used two different belts in these pics, mostly because I wanted to see which one I like best. Since these are traditional trousers, the waistband is not over-wide. I fitted the belt loops to accept the widest belt I might use. It would be easy to redraft the waistband, if one wanted to use a wider belt. I think a wide belt would look nice on soft wool trousers, with a loafer-style shoe and a crisp white blouse. sigh. Sometimes I really miss having colder weather.
Sewing notes – I did a lot of tailoring, starting with the size 14:
– On the back, I added a second dart to each side.
– I made the deepest part of back crotch curve a little more shallow, by about 1/4″, and lengthened it by 3/8″ at the inseam.
– On the front pieces, I slashed the top edge and added 1/2″ to the waistline (basically moving the width of the additional back dart to the front).
– The latter meant that I had to realign the front pleat to keep it centered over my leg.
– I cut the waistband in two pieces and seamed them at CB. I like to do this so that any future change at the waist is easier to do. I also cut both pieces about 1″ longer than the pattern. And I recommend doing this. You’ll have more fabric at hand when you do the finishing around the zipper and the front fly.
After I attached the waistband, I could see that the pants were simply too high on me in the back and on the sides. They fit better when I hitched them up. So off came the waistband. I removed 1/2″ from most of the top edge of the pants, pocket to pocket, and reattached the waistband. This simple change gave me a much nicer fit.
On the subject of fitting: I’m very happy with the way my britches fit. The front is nice and flat, the pockets don’t pull open, the waistband is perfect, and my back wrinkles are symmetrical! I decided that if I tailored them any more, they would start losing some of their character – they’re baggy trousers, after all.
I’m making more! Ciao – Coco