Redrafting the Merchant & Mills Strides…


Well, I’m still working on my Strides trousers. That bit of bagginess in the back is bugging me.

I started over this morning with new tissue, drawn directly from the M&M pattern, size 14. And I re-drafted the back with a couple of flat seat adjustments. Ha! I never thought I have a flat bum, but actually I qualify. Oh, pickles. Since when is aging a synonym for dropping 🙂

So I did another muslin, and I’m so happy with the result. I’m cutting out a full-length pair of Strides in denim later today. There are a lot of changes, so I’m starting here…

First: the fish-eye dart. This is the same kind of dart that is often drawn vertically:

And can be drawn across one’s pant to remove bagging at the bottom of the bum:


I used a wonderful set of pics/mini-tutorial from Ann Rowley to draft the dart.
Finished, the fish-eye looks like this. Absolutely no relation to a fish’s eye. It’s a slash-and-move technique that impacts the grainline, the waistline dart, the crotch line, and the tissue across the horizontal:

Having done that, I cut and sewed my muslin. And I discovered new things. My crotch was a little tight, where it had been loose before! No!! Whiskers are not welcome.

So I moved to my second change – this is also a flat seat adjustment, one I’ve used before.

I scooped out the crotch at the bottom. I decided to extend it just a little into my front crotch curve, because my front crotch almost pouched on my first Strides. It didn’t show in the pics, but I could see it when I put on the pants. Just a little bit.

I didn’t incorporate any of the changes I made on my first pair of Strides.

I’ve always wanted denim trousers. I think they are so cool. Like this inspiration pic from my Pinterest board – how fun are these!

Bye for now – Coco

14 thoughts on “Redrafting the Merchant & Mills Strides…

  1. I thought Ruth's post was so interesting when she wrote it. And I tried it – but I need the width around my thigh, Ruth is more 'straight' from hip to knee than I am. Okay, so my love handles are at the top of my leg instead of at my waist…anyway, I think it's a good technique when it works. One of the pics I have above actually shows part of that approach.


  2. Yea! more Strides! The front piece is quite a bit wider than the back – might give you more to work with than some other patterns, for the tummy. Can't wait to see.


  3. Take a look at Ruth's of CoreCouture cure for a “droopy” bottom. I tried it and it worked! Best cure I have found. It may be worth a look.
    I enjoy your blog immensely! Thank you


  4. I have saved this for the future when I try the Strides pattern. You will look great in jean trousers. Oh, and I received my copy of the Workbook. What a delight!


  5. Coco, this darting for a flat booty is pure genius! I need this too and agree, why does aging equate with droop? Not quite fair in my book! I can't wait to see how your pants turn out! Sue


  6. I have just ordered the M&M Workbook – for the Strides, of course! (The other patterns are also intriguing.) Having a lower belly issue, I am hopeful I can alter the pattern in the front to accommodate it. Looking forward to your next post!


  7. I do enjoy denim trousers as well, and also belong in the flat seat club. Card carrying member. Why the hee-haw is that called a 'fish-eye' dart? I never considered that before. Food for thought.


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