I love trying a new pattern from Grainline Studio. Jen is simply one of my favorite designers – her drafting is so professional, and her designs are trendy and fresh. Lots to like…
She released the Driftless Cardigan just a few days ago. I got it within 5 minutes of the announcement hitting my email inbox. Check this out!
From the pattern description:
- As noted, I sewed View B, and cut the size 10. Love the fit!
- Being brave, and because this was intended to be a muslin, I used a poly/lycra sweater knit from Fabric Mart by way of France. It’s closely knit and has a very small horizontal rib – which meant I had to be super careful in laying out and cutting the pattern so those ribs wouldn’t wander around. Aaacck.
- My cutting regret: I failed to note that the pattern comes with 1/4″ seam allowance. I prefer to sew knits with 1/2″ allowances, and I usually draft my tissue with the added width. Next time… And here’s a tip – it’s very dangerous to cut notches into 1/4″ allowances! I marked all of them with a small gold safety pin instead. Worked great.
- This sweater knit is kind of squishy and thick, so I spent a good bit of time finding the best settings for my machines (the seams are sewn first with a lightning stitch, and the seam allowances are serged together). I had to release the foot pressure on my sewing machine, something I haven’t had to do before – but what a difference it made. And I didn’t use my walking foot. Another surprise, but it sewed better with a regular foot.
- Because of the weight and ample stretch in my fabric, I staystitched the neckline and front edges about 1/2″ in from the edge, and removed the staystitching once the bands were in place.
- IMHO, the sleeve is very narrow – I don’t think I would be comfortable with a shirt sleeve under it. And the cuff is fitted as well – mine is only 7.5″ around. Redrafting would be easy – just add width to each side of the bottom edge and redraw the side seams. The cuff would also need a little more width. E.g., if an inch is added to the bottom width, one might increase the width of the cuff by 1/2″ – 3/4″ to accomodate it.
- Finishing the front band: I serged the inside edge, and secured it by stitching in the ditch on the outside, along the band/front seam. That open-toe foot is great for stitch-in-the-ditch because you can see where you’re going.
- I didn’t use thread chains to secure the pocket bags – I just didn’t need them. If you want to try them, Jen has a tutorial on her blog site for making them.
- Last note – I lengthened the front and back by 1″, as I’m a little taller than the fit models for most patterns.
Parting shot: I just realized this morning that March is National Craft Month, which excuses the mess on my sofa…there’s barely room enough for me 🙂