Vogue 9168 Kathryn Brenne dress – end of story


And I mean it this time!

I’ve been messing with this dress since the third week of March. When I first wrote about it (here), I mentioned that it was well-drafted (it looked just like the envelope pic), but it was uncomfortable to wear. It was destined for a re-do in the fall. But it has been on the garment rack in the loft, and it’s been bugging me. So this week I took it on once more.

A pattern refresher – ALL of the pieces, except the sleeve, are cut on the bias. I actually cut my back bodice on the straight grainline as well:

I decided to (1) put back the original flutter sleeve – it’s perfection and will be re-used, and (2) raise the waistline. The sleeve business was easy, and they’re beautiful. The waistline adjustment was a terror!

I carefully removed the skirt from the bodice and got to work. And I re-worked it 4 times! This is a rayon crepe fabric, and all those bias cuts just kept on growing and growing. I just couldn’t get and keep a straight seam in the front bodice edge.

Even the final version shows a new dip since it was finished this morning (the arrow). Looking past that, the double pleats in the front bodice are very flattering. They fit more closely than the original pattern, because I crossed the center front a bit to raise the neckline.


 The back is very pretty, no problems there.


An inside look – the waist has a narrow casing  with 1/4″ elastic.


I know there are ways to stabilize the waist – a buckram waist stay, invisible side zip, etc. but I can’t wear those against my skin, and am not about to wear a slip. This hot and humid Florida, and I’m into easy dressing.

I’m glad I continued to work with this dress, which is now officially out of the house. I’m done with bias cuts! but I learned a lot. I certainly know why all those movie star bias-cut dresses have unstructured, dipped and draped bodices.

To close – here’s the same fabric, in a different colorway, in the StyleArc Toni Designer Dress (posted here, way back in November). Much better marriage of pattern and fabric. And I love the colors!


Okey dokey – I’m off to more fun stuff! Bye for now – Coco



6 thoughts on “Vogue 9168 Kathryn Brenne dress – end of story

  1. Looks good, but as you said it’s out of the house now. I’m avoiding rayon like the plague. Still working on a long skirt for my niece I made in rayon. I’d finished it, she wore it ONE DAY and it grew, and grew and grew till she was stepping on it! YIKES. So I’ve taken it apart and am ironing on a fusible to the back of it. The skirt has a yoga waistband and think I’m only going to fuse half of it. The skirt pulls on over the hips, so I don’t know if the stabilized waistband will allow for enough stretch to get over the hips. We’ll find out, and if needed, I could put in a side zipper. Learn a lot from you, Coco. Keep ’em comin’!

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    1. I’m laughing but with sympathy 🙂 I didn’t even mention the hem of my dress, which was dusting the floor in a wide perimeter by the time I chucked it. And thank you, Margene.


  2. Oh such commitment. I am afraid it would have ended in the trash after 2 reworkings for me. Maybe even after 1 since it is rayon crepe on the bias.

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