McCalls 7597 – Thwarted mid-muslin


Well, I’m sitting here laughing at myself as I write. Because I usually cause my own problems! In this case, I decided to muslin a pattern with a very lightweight knit with 60% stretch. Ignoring the fabric suggestions for cotton blends, stable knits, crepes, gauze.

The pattern – McCalls 7597 – really has me intrigued:


I ‘m pretty sure that sewing it in a woven fabric will be easy. But I love wearing knits. So a knit muslin was in order, using a cotton modal rayon that I picked up from Girl Charlee at only $2.50/yard over Mothers Day.

The exorbitant stretch factor was not really a problem. The problem was the HOLE I managed to put at the turn of the bib insert.


I’m so stubborn, I really like it when I sew well – not when I put holes in my garments!

I’ll probably use Fray Check on it and keep going. When the fabric is relaxed, the hole really isn’t noticeable.

I’m in love with the length of the front bib. It gives the illusion of a dropped waist. Very pretty.


A note on sewing this type of knit fabric – very light (almost sheer), stretchy, and curly.  I use my patchwork presser foot, a 70/10 universal needle, and a small straight stitch. This little foot really keeps the fabric in place on each side of the needle, and the needle doesn’t carry fabric into the feed dogs. A 1/4″ presser foot would work as well, but doesn’t afford the view of the stitching area that the patchwork foot provides. I also play with the pressure on the presser foot until the fabrics moves just right across the throat plate. Worth trying if you get frustrated at the machine 🙂

patchwork presser foot-horz

Speaking of throat plates, I managed to bend one of the looper needles on the throat plate of my Juki serger. I’ve had a couple weird weeks in the loft. A replacement plate is expensive, so I’ve set it aside for now, and I’m using my Janome 8002D serger. It’s a nice machine as well. I always kept it threaded with white thread and used my Juki for color changes. What luxury…I’m just glad I had two sergers!

I’m still shopping fabrics for a ‘real’ version of this pattern, so I plan to mosey on over to JoAnns once I have enough coffee in me…

Bye for now! Coco

5 thoughts on “McCalls 7597 – Thwarted mid-muslin

  1. When I sew knits I baste the seams first w/tissue. I cut 1″strips by however long the tissue is. Then I pin baste the tissue over the seam. Goes faster than it sounds. When it’s basted together I gently tear off the tissue. Then proceed to sew as normal ( I usually sew it up on the serger). I have found this method tames any knit or slinky and looks more professional with much less stress. I learned this trick from my Bernina dealer many years ago and the Tilton sisters use it too.


  2. Yes use fray check. What about adding a little embroidery by hand, machine or ready made. A little beading or trim ( light braid, rick rack, lace or cording) can work wonders to camoflauge a hole or blunder also adds a pop of color/design element on a solid fabric

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    1. Trim is excellent idea, in fact the pattern even includes it as a option. Would do it except that the fabric is so so light, I think it would impede the drape too much. I did buy trim for my next/non-muslin version.


  3. Your comment about making your own problems brings back to my mind what my DMIL used to tell me (and I find it is true for myself),”Most of my frustrations are self inflicted!” I miss her!

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