My long hoodie muslin

f2

My current project, keeping me out of trouble…a muslin of a long hoodie. This has been fun!

Please excuse any blurry photos. My laptop is acting up, it’s old, on Windows 7 because it cannot handle Windows 10. In fact I’ve ordered a Mac Air 2 to replace it. OK. Yes, I’m excited and broke at the same time 🙂

So – I’m so intrigued by the long hoodies I see on Pinterest. Kind of up my alley. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I order M7634 for a starting point for drafting a long hoodie ( I’m only showing the line art for the long top here, but it has fantastic knit pants as well):

line art 1

And check it out!

b1

This is a very modified draft. M7634 is a top and/or dress, very slim through the torso and sleeves. So I drafted my tissue using the B6251 jacket pattern as the basis for my upper bodice, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. What was left? well, that wonderful hood and the hemline bands.

hood up

Honestly, I love messing with patterns. Although admittedly, not all of my mash-ups turn out as well as this one.

Originally, I thought I would add a button band (not wanting to put a zipper in a knit fabric):

my line art

And I did it, using a couple fleece blankets from the drug store, $6 investment. Confession time, I mistakenly cut the whole thing on the cross-grain, which left no stretch horizontally, and the entire thing was too tight. Oh well 🙂

This muslin is also done in fleece blankets from the store, but I changed the front edge. I simply added a cut-on facing to match the width of the fold on the hood. It gives really nice continuity to the flow from the hood down the front. If I were to use snaps or a zipper, I would cut the band separately to allow for interfacing (this version has none) and/or a seam to enclose the zipper tape.

Sewing notes:

  • I like the idea of the hem bands, but wanted mine to curve in just a little. So I simply took 3/8″ out of each band and stretched it to fit.
  • I didn’t add sleeve cuffs – my wrists are so sensitive (scleroderma has shrunken them from 7″ to 6″), so I went for a simple hemmed sleeve.
  • I’ve always been a little intimidated by that seam, hood to neckline, wondering how to finish it without raw edges. Following a nice tutorial on Craftsy, I finished mine with twill tape. Not purple tape, mine is black, what I had hanging around – but remember, this is a muslin. The twill tape is a nice and really easy technique.

twill

twill 2

  • As always I looked online for other versions of m7634. What I noticed most was that the shoulders and hood neckline were loosey-goosey. Stretched out, and just not something I would wear. I tamed the tiger by using tricot knit fusible in the shoulders, and, of course, that twill tape in the neckline/hood seam.

 

b2

 

Now I have a great pattern draft, makes me dangerous. I really want to make a long hoodie in sweatshirt fabric. Classic grey?

Ciao! Coco

5 thoughts on “My long hoodie muslin

  1. I love the purple, but classic grey would be great as well. I always stabilize my shoulder seams with knits but never really thought about the neckline with a hoodie. Brilliant idea.

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  2. Oh, Coco, this is so fabulous! I have been looking for a pattern for a long hoodie for a long time, but I have been unable to find one. I take exercise classes 4 days a week, and I often want to run errands on my way home, but I am not running about in leotards with my patoot hanging out for the world to see! I have a cheap one that kinda works, but it is really not long enough or warm enough , and it is on its last legs. I am a beginner in my sewing skills, so I don’t think I could do a pattern mashup like this, so I am so envious of what you have achieved! This is going to be perfect! Long enough, not sloppy, warm, comfortable. I can’t wait to see your finished version. I am so impressed!

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