Blackwood Cardigan in Ponte Knit

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More love for the Blackwood Cardigan pattern from Helen’s Closet.

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Feeling adventurous, I used a very stretchy (60%/40%) rayon/nylon/lycra ponte from Fabric Mart (my first version was in hacci knit, here).

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I actually began construction with the neckline band, because I knew it would be the biggest challenge. I did not want to end up with a wavy, stretched out band! So – my approach:

  • I keep my ironing board at table height, so it can double as a work surface. The foam pad makes a great pin cushion as well!

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  • I measured the band and did all my work with a measuring tape above it to ensure I wasn’t stretching the fabric. Or possibly shrinking it when I applied the fusible interfacing.

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  • After I folded the band and gave it a press, I did some fancy basting to prevent shifting when it was sewn. It took a while, but was worth the effort.

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  • I also made a 12″ long replica for testing my stitches, tension, and so on.

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A couple more sewing notes:

  • I staystitched the neckline edges of the garment to stabilize them while I was handling the fabric. On the back neckline, I stitched from the center back to the shoulder. On the front pieces, I stitched from the bottom edge to the shoulder.

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  • To avoid stretching my seams, I sewed them first on the sewing machine, and simply finished the edges on the serger.

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Whew! but it all worked 🙂

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Next up, of course I’m going to sew this in a cotton/lycra jersey!

Bye for now, Coco

13 thoughts on “Blackwood Cardigan in Ponte Knit

  1. It is a nice pattern and your versions make it even more tempting! Looking forward to seeing the next iteration, so helpful to see it in different fabrics, thanks.

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    1. Hi Lillian. I used a universal needle size 70/10, and my ‘regular’ presser feet, not a walking foot. My machine allows me to adjust the presser foot pressure, which is very helpful for all fabrics. I think I have 80/12 universal needles in my serger at the moment (I go up a size for denims).

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  2. I love this pattern, I have made two already and see more in the future. Your two versions look wonderful. It really is a nice pattern.

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  3. thanks so much for the tips–your quiet polished style is beautifully realized in this garment–kudos! joan

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  4. Oh you are so meticulous with the tape measure,with the band. I’m afraid I don’t have that much patience (right now, anyway), but it certainly paid off in a beautiful garment!!

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  5. Hi Coco, with this solid color, I can SEE this cardigan even better. When I got to the nice back view on you, what came to mind was this: “very sophisticated!” Love the length and appreciate your preparation work–so worth it. ALWAYS some wonderful tips from you. Looking forward to your next version. HAPPY MOTHER’S DAY!

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