Buttons and buttonholes

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I’m working on my True Bias Yari jumpsuit, and this morning hit a critical point. Buttons!

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And buttonholes. I think the buttons are a focus for this pattern, and how well they work to purpose is critical. I decided to use 6 buttons, instead of 5. I never feel locked-in by button placements suggestions. What matters is how it works on me 🙂

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After I decided on my button (which will be revealed with the post on the finished garment), I moved on to the buttonholes themselves.

I always put together a test piece, built exactly like the area in which I’ll put a buttonhole. Outside, interfacing, facing, edge-stitching, the whole ball of wax. For this garment, which I’m sewing in Essex linen, I decided on a rounded-end buttonhole, with a wider stitch (1) to add a little chunkiness (appearance) and (2) to protect the inherent loose weave of the linen (utility). At the same time, I tested the presser foot pressure (released for linen) and the upper thread tension (also released).

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When I first starting using my Juki HZL F600, I ignored the optional footplate of the buttonhole presser foot. No more! It really helps the fabric glide, any fabric, and is a terrific option.

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Last note on this: I never clip my threads on a buttonhole. Instead I take the front threads to the back and weave everything into the back buttonhole stitching. I just think loose, cut threads on the outside ruin a buttonhole. Finishing them only takes a little time.

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Next up: the jumpsuit! Hope everyone enjoys a lovely weekend, Coco

8 thoughts on “Buttons and buttonholes

  1. Thanks for the tips, I have the same machine as you and I love it but due to ignorance (and not a little fear), generally stick to the default buttonhole. I assumed that the machine locks the last stitch and I always cut away any loose thread, I haven’t noticed any tendency to unravel but I’ll make sure to give my next sample a rigorous test.

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  2. Hi, Coco –

    You are forever the teacher…I continue to learn so much from you! What a difference in your two sample buttonholes – you’re jumpsuit will be gorgeous! Happy sewing this weekend! I never heard of an optional footplate when making buttonholes! So much to learn…so little time…but lots of fun along the way!

    Happy weekend!

    m

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  3. Oh wow! Why have I never thought to hand stitch the threads back into the machine stitching?! This why I love you blog! Thanks so much.

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    1. You’re so welcome, Karen. Lately I’ve been trying to include some tips on my posts, things that make the ‘difference’, whether it’s an easier approach or a finishing technique 🙂

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