True Bias Yari Jumpsuit


And I love it 🙂 I wore jumpsuits a lot back in the 80’s –  they were perfect for travel and for wearing on our farms in Costa Rica. The Yari takes me right back to that time, but it’s a lot easier to wash and wear than the vintage styles.

I was cautious with the pattern because of the design elements and the potential for fit failures. And I read every review I could find. Other folks’ experiences are so helpful, and, in this case, kind of saved my soup. Initially, I contemplated adding an inch or more to the bodice (I’m 5’7″, and Kelli drafts for a 5’5″ model). Many sewers did that exact thing, and they ended up with a too-low crotch seam. This one factor led to my muslin, which I sewed with no changes to the pattern (here).


So cute!


Some sewing notes:

  • My fabric is Kaufman yarn-dyed Essex linen in Espresso, purchased from It’s 55%linen/45% cotton and weighs in at 5.6 oz/square yard. Great weight, body, and hand for this jumpsuit.


  • I started with View D, the long version with the extended shoulder. Once my shoulders were sewn, I trimmed and reshaped the armhole to suit me. The pattern has a sleeveless option, but I prefer a wider shoulder to balance the overall silhouette of the jumpsuit.


  • I opted for a self-fabric belt with a D-ring buckle. I don’t care for a lot of fuss on my clothes, so I avoided side tabs, side ties, or a waist tie.
  • I also drafted my pattern with the wide-leg option offered by Kelli in her tutorial (here). It’s really easy, and it doesn’t add to the fabric requirement.


Small details:

  • The finished shoulder, which is flat-felled on the right side, and a view of the bias binding on the armhole.

binding and shoulder

  • The lower button band area closed with hand-stitching, instead of top-stitching.

hand stitch

  • Inexpensive faux wood (or bone?) 5/8″ buttons from JoAnn. I used 6, spaced at 2 1/2″, being super careful not to have one under my belt buckle (more on buttons in an earlier post, here).


To close, here’s a shot with no belt!

no belt

Ciao! Coco

30 thoughts on “True Bias Yari Jumpsuit

  1. Wow, the jumpsuit looks really sharp on you, Coco. I may even be tempted by it, especially when you mentioned the drop crotch-ability of it. And the fabric choice is great too. Another thing to check out, essex linen, as I love yarn-dyed linen. Thanks for all the tips!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Your are terribly inspiring! Thank you so much for going in details about every step of the way. This jumpsuit is great on you, I was on the fence but I so want it now.


  3. Oh my goodness, I love your stuff! Coco, where did you learn all the drafting techniques? Self taught, classes, a mentor? I’ve sown for decades and have the most rudimentary tailoring skills… I mean basic. Your knowledge and application are AWESOME!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks so much, Karen! Drafting – I’ve taught myself over the years, but I do look-up techniques onine. And I read other blogs for info. I also keep a very detailed chart of my measurements and took pics of myself in undies, to make a black/white croquis. It helps me visualize a garment on myself, where seams might fall, silhouettes, etc. Putting all that onto a pattern draft does take some time, and my tape measure gets a workout! I have Palmer/Pletsch ‘Fit for Real People’, and find some very helpful guides in it.


  4. It turned out fabulous! I am normally not a jumpsuit fan but on you it is perfection! I am also a huge essex linen fan girl…we should start a club. LOL!

    Liked by 1 person

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