Simplicity 8640 Handkerchief hem dress

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Looking sassy for a reason! I fell in love with this pattern the moment I saw a post on Instagram by my friend Valerie. Here’s a copy, and here’s her post. I unabashedly called her an enabler because I ordered the pattern and some fabric within 30 minutes. A happy shout-out, thanks, Val.

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The pattern, which I think is from last year:

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So cute for summer (and all year here in Florida).

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Fabric: Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen Blend in Brick, from Fancy Tiger Crafts

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size 12, based on my 34″ bust. I noticed on other reviews that the bodice tended to be a little tight across the girls, which informed my size decision.
  • Not sure of what length I wanted, I cut the shorter length plus 1 5/8″. For reference, I’m now 5′ 6 1/2″ (yes, I was taller in the past, actually 5′ 81/2″ in my prime :-).
  • Following Val’s lead, I used a short sleeve. I found a perfect match in McCalls 7597. It matches the sleeve from this pattern down to the notches and marks! My only change was to add 3/8″ to the length of the sleeve.

Notes on finishing:

  • I serged my front and back seam allowances and topstitched them on each side of the seam. The pattern would have you press the SA to one side first. Well, that’s off-center, plus, with this approach, the topstitching echoes the topstitching on the facing.

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  • That curved 5/8″ hem . First, there’s no crying in sewing. I angled out my side seam for the last 5/8″, to give me enough ease to turn the hem inside a pretty tight curve. I ran a line of stitching 5/8″ from the raw edge and pressed it up. It was easy to turn a narrow hem after that.

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 Ta da 🙂

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  • The pocket. Well, the pattern pocket is lined, with a gathered front. As did many before me, I only used the lining pattern. Not wanting to add additional weight, I also drafted my pocket to have a cut-on facing. This is easy to do! and I’m really happy with the result.

One more pic (I love this hem), and I’m off to work on a white linen blouse.

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Ciao! Coco

 

10 thoughts on “Simplicity 8640 Handkerchief hem dress

  1. HI Coco. Glad to be your enabler and I will have more versions this dress coming too. I actually dropped the hem curve down 5/8″ at the side seams when cutting out but your tip works well too!

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  2. Very nice and a versatile pattern, you’re on a roll. I’ve sort of stalled on shirtmaking as I’m not sure I would wear a shirt but I love the precise sewing and I always like them on other people so I’ll be watching with interest, I expect I’ll be temped again.

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