Butterick 6423 Coat – a muslin


No, I’m not losing my marbles, but I’ll admit this muslin has a bit of personality.

Despite its Easy rating, this lined Lisette coat is a fairly complex design. Tricky bits – the one-piece shawl collar, side/sleeve gusset, and pocket detail. Kick in a lining, and it’s definitely not a beginner project.


Note the slight narrowing of the silhouette – it’s real (hence the back pleat), and it does encourage the coat to open below the button, as seen on the model. Since I purchased the pattern to make a jacket, the latter doesn’t bother me.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Small – great fit.
  • My jacket is unlined, since I would seldom need the warmth of a lining.
  • I shortened the length by 7.5″, to finish at 29.5″ below the base of the neck.
  • Of course the back seam is too low for a jacket profile, so I raised it to finish about 3/4″ below the side/sleeve gusset seam. And I decided to gather the back skirt, rather than use a pleat (pleats that go awry make me nuts).

back bodice and skirt

  • Once I had the jacket constructed, I played with the collar. Without the ‘balance’ of the longer length, the collar is just too wide. I narrowed one side (the arrow side) so I could compare the two. I’m going with the narrowed version.

front collar view

back and collar view

side back and collar view

I know it’s hard to picture this jacket with all the fabric noise – squinting helps 🙂


And it’s time to think about a suitable fabric. The pattern suggests wool blends, boiled wool, mohair, wool flannel, and tweeds, and I agree a soft but stable fabric would work best.

Thinking of everyone impacted by severe weather this week, I hope you, your friends, and your loved ones are safe.


7 thoughts on “Butterick 6423 Coat – a muslin

  1. After two mock ups (not quite as fun as your colorful version) I have one that I will be using when it gets cool enough to even want to handle wool. I had to add seven inches across the back section at the hip line (and am not using that pleat either) just to get it to fit but the small was perfect on the top section. I had Kenneth King’s help to get it right and he also suggested that I raise the seam 2″ further up towards my shoulder of the arm since it looked to be a line drawn arbitrarily too far down the upper arm. I love the pockets, the shawl collar and the side panels and seeing you start yours makes me smile knowing that this project is in my queue too. I think I might adapt your changes to make a shorter version with perhaps a pointed or angled collar since once I go through the fit work I want to make it a TNT pattern. Hope you enjoy the fabric decision next!


  2. I also purchased this pattern with the idea of using boiled Wool. Then I purchased a slightly different design, Simplicity 1067 and have since been ambivalent about which to use. Therefore, I will keenly follow your posts to get an idea of how B6423 looks outside of the advertising photo. I like the narrowed collar as well.

    BTW, last year I made a winter coat using Lisette pattern B6385 – I love it! The fit is fantastic. The great thing about making a coat is that is can be customized for the climate needed. I live in a warm climate, but do travel to cold parts of the world during Winter. My me-made coat has turned out to be the warmest coat I’ve ever owned, as well as a being a milestone in my sewing life!


  3. Brilliant changes, Coco! I’ve admired this pattern, and will probably try it now, seeing your smart adaptations—especially the back!


  4. Just discovered your inspirational site. Love the jacket you are working on but am wondering how easy it would be to reduce the size of that collar further.


  5. Looking forward to watching your progress – I, also, like this pattern, but have not as yet sewn anything from it. So… sewing it vicariously through you!


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