This project has been in thinking mode for a long time! When it first came out, I bought the Patricia Rose dress because I had pinned a really pretty dress with a front and back bodice fold. The Rose seemed a possible starting point for something similar.
My stash is pretty thin right now, but I did have a cute linen/cotton/rayon shirting I picked up on a whim from Fabric Mart. It’s called Traveling Bananas, by the mysterious Better Hawaiian Dress Manufacturer. Does anyone know who this is? Tori Richards maybe? Anyway, it’s a beautiful fabric, a pleasure to sew and wear.
My drafting process.
Of course I wanted my back bodice fold to match up with the front fold. So I used the front to draft the back.
Next, the skirt. I’m not fond of inverted pleats in skirts – they just don’t wear well. So I took some width out of the front skirt, leaving just enough width for soft gathers. Since the bottom widths of my front and back bodice are the same, I used the same draft for the back skirt!
A few more sewing notes:
- I sewed the size 8, based on my bust measurement plus some ease.
- The pattern has 1/2″ seam allowances everywhere except the neckline and facings, which are 1/4″. That is totally contra-intuitive given the risk of stretch and ravel on the neckline bias curves. I drew my tissue with 1/2″ SA everywhere, so much safer.
- I added 1″ to the length of the bodice, just above the area of the fold.
- And added an additional 1 1/2″ to the length of the skirt.
- My short sleeves are based on the original sleeve.
- I used 1 3/4″ hem allowances on the sleeves and skirt, just to echo the bodice fold.
- BTW, my fabric was 44″ wide by 3 yards. I had enough to cut pockets and long sleeves.
I happened to take a snap of the front before I folded the bodice. It’s actually rather nice.
Closeups of those pretty folds:
This project was so much fun that I was sorry to see it finished! Not really the end…I have a piece of striped fabric that has me back in the thinking mode.
Parting shot: David and Preston are in Beaver Creek, Colorado, for ski week. Preston is almost 10 and has been skiing for 3 years. Amazing, my little athlete, he actually does the expert slopes (moguls this year?) with his dad!
Bye for now – Coco