Paper Theory delightful Olya Shirt


What an interesting and unique pattern! The drafting was so tempting, the most expensive pattern I’ve ever purchased, and it’s worth it. I worked on this for 5 days and enjoyed every minute!

collage pattern

I knew I would make a muslin, and I decided to use several fabrics to highlight the drafting and aid in any fitting I might want to do.



I also used white thread everywhere, so I could see the construction more easily. In the end, I have a funky and fun shirt 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 8, with 2″ added to the length of the bodice and front placket.
  • The pattern includes 1 cm seam allowances. No way. I drafted my tissue with 1/2″ SA’s.
  • The sleeve is much easier to sew than I anticipated. It was a little short for me, so I added 1/2″ in the cuff. Next version, I’ll just add to the length of the sleeve.

spread f

spread b

  • I used white broadcloth for my pocket bags to prevent print shadows. A tip: work with the pocket topstitching from the right side of the shirt, first marking two same-sized outlines. I guarantee the pocket bags will not be the same size if stitched from the inside.
  • Buttonholes – The inside of the top buttonholes will show when the collar is open, so they need to be pretty on both sides. A little practice on an interfaced remnant, with adjustments to the stitch width and length settings, is really helpful.

collage buttonholes

  • Collar angst…I used the pattern’s suggested construction technique and failed miserably (it finishes the collar stand/front placket area with a ‘burrito’ method). I took it apart and spent several hours making repairs (those 1/2″ seam allowances were much appreciated). Won’t do that again.
Screen Shot 2019-02-25 at 1.11.39 PM
From the instruction set.
  • A template for stitching the collar stand curve:


  • I’ve been playing with labels on the Dutch Labels website and made a small purchase so I can understand the fabric, size, options, and stitching. This is not the version I’ll order, but it’s a good test. I sewed it at the bottom of my front placket, since I cannot wear tags in my clothing. I like this!


Amazing pattern.


Ciao! Coco

31 thoughts on “Paper Theory delightful Olya Shirt

  1. Wow, this is fantastic! I love the mix of fabrics and the fit. It looks sleek and chic. I have been looking for a pattern to make hiking shirts and this may be it. You look marvelous Coco-I hope your health is improving.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I’ve had this pattern on my ‘need’ list (no wishing here) but I’m waiting for the plus size version that I believe will be out in March. I could probably use the size 20 in the original pattern – is the sizing quite generous? I have a piece of medium weight natural colored linen that I think will show off the seam lines nicely. I’ve been following your blog for about a year and I love everything you do. I especially like that you model your outfits sometimes barefoot! So natural!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Judy! Yes, the sizing is generous. I could have sewn a size up for a looser garment, my usual size 10, for sure, but I wanted mine a little close for my muslin, just to get an idea of where I was going. Not very many reviews/examples yet online. I’m sewing another one with additional width in the lower back bodice, gathered instead of pleated, same size, for a looser fit. Go for it! it’s such fun. BTW, I’m always barefoot! and only sometimes put on shoes for blog pics 🙂 Love having you here. Coco


  3. Have been a lurker on you site for a few years! Thought this shirt was the perfect thing to make my first comment on … It is such a nice shirt and a great transitional one at that! You can go from winter to spring and then some.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. You’re so good at this! I like the way you made your muslin with scraps. What a great idea! And it looks fabulous! I love this pattern.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Your make of this shirt is eye-catching (in a good way 🙂 ). What is your opinion about using the pockets if one is a 40DD. I’m thinking of using rayon batik fabric.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Sue! Do you avoid patch pockets in that area? If so, this would be much the same. You can always add them, and them remove the pocket bag/close the seam if you don’t like them. Nice fabric choice, should be pretty.


  6. I love your funky shirt! I don’t know what type of fabric you used, but I used to have a funky shirt made similarly to this in lots of wild rayon prints. I loved it!

    Liked by 1 person

  7. I looked at this interesting pattern when you first mentioned it and I have to say that made up with this much imagination the pattern is wonderful. I absolutely love your shirt.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Thanks for your speedy review of this new-to-me pattern line. Your use of fabric remnants is a wonderful idea resulting in funky results. I agree with you on the sa and changing to ½” was a very
    wise decision. It appears this pattern is short both in body and sleeve length. Do you usually have to add to those areas? I am thinking I will give the tee shirt from this line a try. Much simpler than your shirt.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Hi Fran! I seldom add length to a sleeve, more often shorten them, and I generally add length to a shirt if I plan to wear it out. I like them to fall just below the crotch of my pants. Based on every pic I’ve seen, I think this pattern is short by design.


  9. At first glance, I was surprised to see a collar next to your neck as I thought collars were bothersome, but this doesn’t look bothersome at all. In fact, the whole shirt looks like so much FUN! Excellent fit, too. Enjoy.

    Liked by 2 people

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