Paper Theory delightful Olya Shirt

~ Cocos Loft

buttoned

What an interesting and unique pattern! The drafting was so tempting, the most expensive pattern I’ve ever purchased, and it’s worth it. I worked on this for 5 days and enjoyed every minute!

collage pattern

I knew I would make a muslin, and I decided to use several fabrics to highlight the drafting and aid in any fitting I might want to do.

contrast

b2

I also used white thread everywhere, so I could see the construction more easily. In the end, I have a funky and fun shirt 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 8, with 2″ added to the length of the bodice and front placket.
  • The pattern includes 1 cm seam allowances. No way. I drafted my tissue with 1/2″ SA’s.
  • The sleeve is much easier to sew than I anticipated. It was a little short for me, so I added 1/2″ in the cuff. Next version, I’ll just add to the length of the sleeve.

spread f

spread b

  • I used white broadcloth for my pocket bags to prevent print shadows. A tip: work with the pocket topstitching from the right side of the shirt, first marking two same-sized outlines. I guarantee the pocket bags will not be the same size if stitched from the inside.
  • Buttonholes – The inside of the top buttonholes will show when the collar is open, so they need to be pretty on both sides. A little practice on an interfaced remnant, with adjustments to the stitch width and length settings, is really helpful.

collage buttonholes

  • Collar angst…I used the pattern’s suggested construction technique and failed miserably (it finishes the collar stand/front placket area with a ‘burrito’ method). I took it apart and spent several hours making repairs (those 1/2″ seam allowances were much appreciated). Won’t do that again.
Screen Shot 2019-02-25 at 1.11.39 PM
From the instruction set.
  • A template for stitching the collar stand curve:

template

  • I’ve been playing with labels on the Dutch Labels website and made a small purchase so I can understand the fabric, size, options, and stitching. This is not the version I’ll order, but it’s a good test. I sewed it at the bottom of my front placket, since I cannot wear tags in my clothing. I like this!

label

Amazing pattern.

seat1

Ciao! Coco

31 thoughts on “Paper Theory delightful Olya Shirt”

  1. Wow, this is fantastic! I love the mix of fabrics and the fit. It looks sleek and chic. I have been looking for a pattern to make hiking shirts and this may be it. You look marvelous Coco-I hope your health is improving.

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  4. I’ve had this pattern on my ‘need’ list (no wishing here) but I’m waiting for the plus size version that I believe will be out in March. I could probably use the size 20 in the original pattern – is the sizing quite generous? I have a piece of medium weight natural colored linen that I think will show off the seam lines nicely. I’ve been following your blog for about a year and I love everything you do. I especially like that you model your outfits sometimes barefoot! So natural!

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    1. Hi Judy! Yes, the sizing is generous. I could have sewn a size up for a looser garment, my usual size 10, for sure, but I wanted mine a little close for my muslin, just to get an idea of where I was going. Not very many reviews/examples yet online. I’m sewing another one with additional width in the lower back bodice, gathered instead of pleated, same size, for a looser fit. Go for it! it’s such fun. BTW, I’m always barefoot! and only sometimes put on shoes for blog pics 🙂 Love having you here. Coco

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  5. Have been a lurker on you site for a few years! Thought this shirt was the perfect thing to make my first comment on … It is such a nice shirt and a great transitional one at that! You can go from winter to spring and then some.

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  9. Your make of this shirt is eye-catching (in a good way 🙂 ). What is your opinion about using the pockets if one is a 40DD. I’m thinking of using rayon batik fabric.

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    1. Hi Sue! Do you avoid patch pockets in that area? If so, this would be much the same. You can always add them, and them remove the pocket bag/close the seam if you don’t like them. Nice fabric choice, should be pretty.

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  11. I love your funky shirt! I don’t know what type of fabric you used, but I used to have a funky shirt made similarly to this in lots of wild rayon prints. I loved it!

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  13. Thanks for your speedy review of this new-to-me pattern line. Your use of fabric remnants is a wonderful idea resulting in funky results. I agree with you on the sa and changing to ½” was a very
    wise decision. It appears this pattern is short both in body and sleeve length. Do you usually have to add to those areas? I am thinking I will give the tee shirt from this line a try. Much simpler than your shirt.

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    1. Hi Fran! I seldom add length to a sleeve, more often shorten them, and I generally add length to a shirt if I plan to wear it out. I like them to fall just below the crotch of my pants. Based on every pic I’ve seen, I think this pattern is short by design.

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  14. At first glance, I was surprised to see a collar next to your neck as I thought collars were bothersome, but this doesn’t look bothersome at all. In fact, the whole shirt looks like so much FUN! Excellent fit, too. Enjoy.

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