I was thinking of the line from Moonstruck the entire time I was sewing this. ‘Isn’t it romantic?’…
I’m so glad I did a muslin (here), because I was able to draft my vision of the blouse based on that experience.
Lots of sewing notes:
- As before I started with the size 8, and 1/2″ seam allowances. But I did not add to the length. I thought my muslin was a bit stuffy with the additional 2″.
- The sleeve:
- I added 1/2″ to the length and decided to add a little detail by splitting the lower sleeve and adding some topstitching.
- Instead of a buttoned cuff, I used a 2″ wide band, using the same cuff pattern but sewn closed to width and attached.
- I also gathered my sleeve into the band – no pleats.
- The neckline and collar:
- Honestly, I felt strangled by the original collar – it’s very high and tight. Plus I thought it made my large head look huge!
- I drafted a new front neckline, collar stand, and collar using the Named Saraste blouse pattern (my version here).
- The collar is softer, larger, and about 1″ lower than the original pattern.
- No pockets! To say they were shifty and difficult to attach is an understatement. I removed mine and simply closed the seam.
- Last little romantic change: I added 1″ to the width of the back skirt and gathered it into the yoke.
- Little things:
Sewing a curved hem can be a challenge at the side seam. I staystitched my hem at 3/4″, to provide a stable guide for the turn. And I released the side seam inside the hem to allow for a no-pucker finish. Alternatively, one could redraft the hem allowance to provide that extra bit.
I’m crazy for nice finishing detail. A peek at how I attach a button – started on the right side, finished on the inside with the tail brought back up under the button and clipped. IMHO, sloppy button stitches on the inside of the placket are a tell.
An inspiration pic – I’m always cruising for ideas.
And some styling – unbuttoned and simply open over a cami (imagine over a print spring dress).
Challis is a real
beast challenge when sewn into structured details! It cannot be pressed without care, since it’s happy to shift and expand. Challis also has a huge amount of mechanical and bias stretch. No way would I use a fusible interfacing, because it puckers the challis and loses the original shape of the pattern piece. And, BTW, the adhesive on a fusible is likely to go through challis onto the plate of an iron. Aack! I cut my interfacing in a poly/cotton broadcloth and used it to interline the button plackets, collar stand, collar, and cuffs. I steam pressed the challis back into shape on the interlining pieces.
I launder all my fabrics before I use them, with serging on the cut ends of wovens. Rayon will shrink significantly, so a pre-wash will preclude disappointment in one’s garment.
I love this pattern. It’s complex and fun to sew. I’m really glad I did a muslin, because the resulting ‘muscle memory’ was very helpful in this version. The drafting and instructions are wonderful – this is a real winner from Paper Theory. I’ll make it again!
Bye for now – Coco