Paper Theory Olya shirt version 2!

sitting

This is becoming a love story – I’m enjoying my first challis Olya so much that I quickly started work on a second one.

Delightful pattern, impeccable drafting:

collage pattern

Just to mix things up a bit (more), I chose a printed challis for this one. Yes, I spent ages matching the print and deciding which pattern and color elements should go where 🙂

emile
Fabric: Fabric.com – beautiful selection of solid and print challis

lb1

I love the shirttail hem, it’s not exaggerated and just goes with the flow of the shirt.

s1

Sewing notes, no changes from my first version, but a recap:

  • I drafted the size 8, with 1/2″ seam allowances instead of the included 3/8″ SA.
  • The sleeve:
    • I added 1/2″ to the length.
    • Instead of a buttoned cuff, I used a 2″ wide band, using the cuff pattern but sewn closed to width and attached.
    • I also gathered my sleeve into the band – no pleats.
  • The neckline and collar:
    • My front neckline, collar stand, and collar are drafted from the Named Saraste blouse pattern.
    • The collar is softer, larger, and about 1″ lower in front than the Olya pattern.

collar

  • Once again, no front pockets! I simply closed the entire bodice seam.
  • I added 1″ to the width of the back lower bodice and gathered it into the yoke – no pleats.
  • Challis is fairly translucent, so I underlined the plackets, cuff, collar stand, and collar with white broadcloth to prevent print shadows. BTW, here’s a succinct and helpful guide to some potentially confusing sewing terms: interfacing, lining, interlining, and underlining.
  • The yoke is also faced in white broadcloth, same reasoning.

facing

I love this shirt tucked into jeans!

t1

t2

An aside: I recently posted pics of a new dress on Instagram (you can click on the IGram icon in my sidebar). It’s my True Bias Nikko top/McCall 6559 combo (blog post here). And I received a wonderful compliment on the way into the grocery this morning 🙂

collage1

Ciao! Coco

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