This is an incredible video series from Atelier Saison on sewing a lined structured jacket.
I’m making my first Republique du Chiffon Manteau Gerard, which is typically lined. It’s been a while since I sewed a lined jacket, so I went looking on YouTube for a refresher course. Wow. This 6-part series from Atelier Saison is simply stunning. From laying out fabrics, cutting them, jacket assembly, and finishing, it’s all covered. And I find that watching someone do it is a lot more helpful than reading a tutorial. I love that ‘pause’ button…
The topic is a beautiful classic woman’s jacket/blazer.
This garment done in wool flannel with a very sheer fusible interfacing and ‘posh-like’ lining. The journey is fascinating. I learned so much! I’ve watched each session several times, checkpointing my own jacket construction and simply taking it all in. I was captivate by all the Technique, fabric manipulation, seam management, sequence of construction, and small steps that differentiate the end garment from something well-made to something beautifully made. Couture.
I would have been happy with the videos. But Atelier Saison takes it a step further and offers the pattern for free as a PDF download. This link includes info and links to each part of the series, as well as the download.
The videos have no audio dialogue, but are captioned in both Japanese and English. They are very easy to understand and navigate. Bonus – each video includes a list of topics covered, in English.
E.g., Part 2: “Adjust cutting, Stick stay tape, Sew the lining”
- Stick stay tape on front bodice
- Fold crease line on lapel
- Stick stay tape on back bodice
- Plain seam under collar and collar stand
- Plain seam upper collar and collar stand
- Seam opening upper collar and collar stand
- Top-stitch (seam opening) upper collar and collar stand
- Top-stitch (overlapped seam) under collar and collar stand
- Plain seam upper and under collar
- Cut seam allowance and Grading it
- Seam opening the collar and turn it out
- Plain seam front bodice and facing
- Attach the collar to the lining bodice
- Attach the collar to the main bodice
- Cut & Slash the seam allowance of the edge of front and lapel, and collar
- Staystitch the edge of front curve
- Seam opening and overlapped seam the collar
- Seam opening the edge of front lapel
- Make the pattern of the part of curve
- Press the edge of front curve
- Turn the facing out and Press
- Hand blind stitch the neckline
- Hand blind stitch the lapel crease line
Hope you enjoy (and many thanks to Atelier Saison for a real gem). Coco