V1644 Kathryn Brenne New Orleans jacket

That jacket – I’m so in love with this pattern and this fabric, STOF France New Orleans cotton duck (Fabric.com). My peek on my last post:

For me, this project was all about working the print and the pattern so that I ended up with a reflection of my style while accenting this gorgeous print and the beautiful jacket design.

Details on the print – I spent about 9 hours placing the pattern pieces, with single layer layouts, so that the predominant ladies and all the lovely backgrounds were highlighted in a balanced way. I drafted a complete second set of pattern pieces for everything to make this easier.

Sewing notes:

  • As on my muslin (here), I sewed a straight size 12.
  • I narrowed bottom of back, 1/4” at CB bottom cured into waist area to remove flare I don’t need. 
  • I also removed front dart inside the princess seam, as I have a small bust and do not need the shaping. You can google this change, I used a tutorial for mine.
  • I added 3” to sleeve for full length with a 1.5″ hem.
  • I also used another pattern to narrow the 2-piece sleeve to the hemline, which was very otherwise very wide.
  • I used only 3 buttons, which extends the front lapel fold a bit and shows a cami or shell. No snaps and so on as on the pattern.
  • I used Hong Kong seam finishes except inside sleeve and armscye, which are serged.
  • About Hong Kong finishes – I end mine well within a hem allowance or interfacing that goes over them, which reduces bulk in seams. The pic below is the seam allowance into the neckline and into the hem allowance.
  • I also drafted a back neckline facing, which releases the collar seam and flattens the fabric flow to the back upper bodice. Remember – when you add a binding to a convex curve, push it out a bit so the it folds over nicely. It’s the opposite of what you do on a concave curve, such as a neckline.

More pics!

I really love this jacket, and the entire project was really engaging.

Ciao! Coco

23 thoughts on “V1644 Kathryn Brenne New Orleans jacket

  1. Sigh, my resolution to buy no more fabric just went out the window. But this will go into the “heirloom” stash and WILL get made up into something for me. That is a lovely jacket. You did great with the pattern placement. I really like that Vogue pattern but armhole princess patterns and I don’t get along so I won’t be persuaded. Have you done the trousers as well?

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Sometimes cutting out is the hardest part of the process and extra care is always worth it. Your jacket is a total dream and suits you to perfection.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. This is really lovely, and SO YOU. I have been telling myself I don’t need this pattern, I have so many patterns, I will never go anywhere again anyway, blah blah. This may be the push I need!

    The blue door is such a great backdrop.

    ceci

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Love the jacket it is so you. A great finish. It was really worth spending the time getting the pattern placement right. Enjoy wearing it

    Like

  5. Love the jacket it is so you. A great finish. It was really worth spending the time getting the pattern placement right. Enjoy wearing it

    Like

  6. Ohmigootness! That jacket is bee-yoo-tee-ful! Darling piece with the most amazing fabric. I love your work. I love your blog. Thank you.

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Wow! That is really cute! How colourful and stylish. I wish I knew how to do all that drafting
    and finishing work, etc. as well as how to sew well. I guess a person needs to be really patient
    and persevere.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Wow, wow, wow! Your hours of work doing the careful layout was worth all the extra effort. The print is shown off to best advantage. I’d never heard of the Hong Kong seam finish. It looks so polished and professional. I think, given my rather basic sewing skills, I’ll wait a while until trying anything this complicated but my dress pattern for Simplicity 8640 arrived yesterday and is awaiting my attention. Thank you for the continued inspiration.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. I love that you ordered S8640, I am so enjoying this pattern! Hong Kong seam finishes are so easy, just google (it is NOT the same as a bound edge, much easier. Just straight stitiching with a little attention to the bias, go for it!

      Like

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