Tessuti Silva Jacket

I’m late to the party! The Tessuti Silva Jacket has been around since 2014, but I only recently took notice. The latter because I’ve been looking for a summer jacket as an alternative to my usual cotton knit cardigans. Yes, I get cold. Stores, pharmacy, clinic, I freeze!

The jacket has very simple lines and a nice silhouette. And some spice – frayed edges on everything:

Surely nothing frays so well as linen, so I chose Robert Kaufman Brussels washer linen. It’s a linen/rayon blend, and I wear it a lot. BTW, I can’t wear 100% linen – the loose fibers actually hurt my skin. Bet I’m not the only one with this issue.

I had to start with black, right? But I’ve lightened some of the photos further along in this post.

I did a muslin in Kona cotton. Bad choice, because the Kona’s body and lack of drape hid the issues I had when I sewed my first linen version. The latter was a miserable fail…

  • It would not stay put on my shoulders, falling either forward or backward.
  • The neckline edges, with no facings, were shapeless.
  • The top corners just flopped around, which totally destroyed the lines of the front edges.

After throwing the bad-boy version and the pattern in the bin, I did my usual: I rescued the pattern and made notes on how to modify it. Because I like the jacket.

Starters:

  • I sewed size 12, which fits me with no changes. (I’m 5’8″, 34″/30″/39″).
  • As a preference, I added 5 1/2″ to the length of the sleeve. The 3/4 length sleeve felt a little stuffy.

And those notes:

  • Since I was unhappy with the neckline drafting, I re-drew it using the Grainline Tamarack jacket pattern. The Tamarack’s neckline is basically the same as the Silva’s, but it’s higher all around.
  • To add support, I drafted facings for the entire neckline and the front edges. The front facing design is one that is common in women’s garments. These are cut at 2 3/4″ wide and interfaced with woven poly/cotton broadcloth.

Inside view:

I admit, this is the first time I’ve done a frayed edge finish, and it was rather fun. Tessuti’s instructions for this are quite good. Here’s a look before washing:

A quick launder, and all the edges are frayed!

Styled with an Ogden cami

The last step in this project was to clean not only my machines, but also my entire sewing room! Maybe even my house – linen makes such a mess 🙂

Ciao! Coco

14 thoughts on “Tessuti Silva Jacket

  1. I wonder if you would do an update review of your serger now that you’ve had it awhile. A confusing amount of features and prices!
    Thanks so much. Always learning!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Such a lovely jacket Coco! I don’t mind the feel of linen but quickly found out that my 100% linen clothes stayed in my closet because my daughter doesn’t like the feel either!!

    Liked by 2 people

  3. What would you think if I told you that I love the inside better than the outside??!! It looks SO cool on the INSIDE! It looks amazing on you and I love the fringe detail and the facing. What if I put fringe into that princess seam and used the inside for my “outside”?If I can find this pattern I’m snatching it up! Thank you, much love, stay well sweet lady! 🙂

    Liked by 2 people

  4. After 20 years, while living in the fabric laden Boston of the 80’s, I’ve been hoarding what’s has now my become a luxe linen stash. I’m 68. What am I waiting for?! Linen fluff or not! Linen makes a difference.

    Liked by 2 people

  5. Coco, I don’t know what’s more fun! Hearing/reading about your inspiration, seeing your process in action, or learning about your brilliant problem solving in fit and pattern precision and revision. Kudos! A beautiful jacket that will serve you well!

    Liked by 1 person

  6. I second the comment which said that she loves that you post your failures. I do too! You have given me so much courage to see. I also appreciate that you detail how you fix the patterns to work for you. Thanks for your wonderful blog❣️

    Liked by 1 person

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