Paper Theory Olya shirt in Swiss dot

Getting shirty – in the new and best sense of the word! I’ve been on an Olya journey, prompted by being so tired of the summer heat and really really tired of my summer wardrobe. I’m tempted to sweep my much-worn dresses out the door!

I first sewed this in early 2019, a muslin and two versions in challis (here). Immediately after, I was distracted by my plans to move house and all that entailed. And the pattern has been aging in my stash ever since. It’s a lovely design:

This Olya is a gem – it’s sewn in Swiss dot lawn, a wonderful transition to fall (if it ever gets here…).

Sewing notes:

  • My first versions were size 8, but for this version I decided to draft a size 10. I’m so happy I did! It has more of a boyfriend shirt appeal, something I love over pants.
  • An aside, the pants in all these pics are Tessuti Margot pants, sewn in Kaufman 6.5 Oz Washed Bleach Indigo, lengthened and given front, back, and cargo pockets!
  • Sewing Swiss dot is kind of difficult, because all those little dots make squares that have to be considered and matched. Read that as needing a lot of single layer cutting…
  • As before, I bound the sleeve placket instead of doing a more structured one. Given such a light fabric, I think a two-piece placket would overwhelm the cuff area of the sleeve.

  • Interfacing – I used Pellon 950F Shirtailor interfacing in the collar and cuffs, and Pellon PLFB36 ultra lightweight interfacing in the button bands. Both are non-woven and fusible.
  • I added 2″ to the length of the front and back bodice.
  • No pockets! (1) they are really tricky and (2) I think they would look like giant pasties in this sheer fabric!
  • This shirt has the most beautifully drafted collar I’ve ever sewn 🙂

To close – I will always remember Queen Elizabeth as a most extraordinary woman – timeless in her example of kindness, steadfastness, dedication to service, prudence, adaptivity, leadership, and faith. My thoughts are with everyone touched by her passing.


10 thoughts on “Paper Theory Olya shirt in Swiss dot

  1. Wonderful, I am following you, on your site, from British Colombia, thank you for kipping sewing, we are the same age, I don’t sew as much as before, but still a little bit here and there, you tips and originality, inspired me, all the time,,, Happy sewing…

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Your comment about the beautifully drafted collar (praise indeed) makes me keen to buy this pattern. I always enjoy reading your interesting blogs, you have a way with words.

    Just as an aside from England in the UK – I have been lucky enough to visit the United States a few times and hope to do so again. We loved every visit, meeting folk in California, Colorado, Vermont, Arizona, New York State, Massachusetts and many more parts of the US. Thank you for your beautiful comment on the passing of Her Majesty the Queen. May she rest in peace.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Great shirt. I like how crisp it looks without looking stiff or starched. Thanks for sharing the project.

    I totally agree with your sentiment about being ready for autumn and completely tired of summer. Where I live, we are setting new record highs every week.

    Liked by 2 people

  4. I so enjoy your blog, and am happy I found it! I’ve recently migrated into Indie patterns and you’ve introduced me to many new ones. I bought the “Sweet Cheeks” pattern as soon as I finished your blog about it; now am thinking about the Olya! I think that makes you an “influencer!” BTW, your endnote in today’s blog was thoughtful and sweet, thank you.

    Liked by 2 people

  5. Yes, Queen Elizabeth was all those things you mentioned, thank you for that.

    I’m trying to picture what a “bound placket” looks like; and if it’s what I’m picturing I absolutely agree it’s the best solution for a lighter weight fabric. What I am picturing is a thin strip of fabric that’s used to enclose the raw edge all along the opening prior to sewing on the cuff? I suppose I can look it up though. Thanks Coco, good to see you here again!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Yes, I cut a 1 1/2″ wide x 9″ long bias strip and use it to bind the slit in the sleeve. I just added a pic to the post. You can google ‘continuous bound placket’ for lot of examples and how-to’s 🙂


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