New Look 6150 Ruched Top

 

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Here come some grainy pics! This cute top is a very deep eggplant cotton/lycra jersey, it just doesn’t photograph well. So I lightened everything πŸ™‚

Yes, New Look 6150, one of the Best Patterns of 2013 on Pattern Review. It only took me 5 years to find it – it really is a nice pattern:

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I love how well this top tucks and stays in place!

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It’s the top I was wearing with the high-waited linen pants in my last post:

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed View A, size 12, withΒ no changes.
  • I marked every single notch and circle from the pattern – and used them all.
  • Just to share, I use a piece of calico as a pressing cloth for knits, and I seldom get pressing lines.

calico pressing cloth

  • A tip – those long front edges are curved and have a narrow hem. It’s tempting, almost natural, to stretch it out as you pin and sew…but don’t! You’ll end up with a distorted and wavy edge. Kind of shake out the fabric so it finds its way, and let it guide you.

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Like so many people before me, I’m hooked on this pattern. I’ve already sewn it in black jersey, and I have a cream jersey to start in the morning.Β I’m sticking with the fun stuff πŸ™‚

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Late breaking news: Preston’s soccer team won their league championship game today, and he scored a goal!!

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Ciao! Coco

M7726 High Waisted Pants

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Love this pants pattern…the fit, the waist, the pockets, the wide legs. Everything!

Not a great pic, so bad in fact that this morning I made myself study the info for my camera – how to take an inside shot. It really helped (there are a couple more ‘old’ setting pics in this post, but the newer ones are much better).

Back to the pants!

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Mine are View D – long, wide, belt loops included, and deep hem. I also made the sash, but no photo here. I like it, but it’s a little fussy for casual wear. All my pics here have a 2″ wide belt.

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These are truly wide legs. But in my linen fabric they feel wonderful. Sassy.

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Great paper bag effect. As I mentioned in my post on my muslin (here), this look is like going home to the 80’s.

Sewing notes:

  • I made a straight size 12 (5’7″ and 130 lbs, 34″ hips, 30″ waist).
  • I added 2.5″ to the length, and later realized that View D has a 6″ hem allowance! I actually cut off 6″ and used a 2.5″ hem. Next time, I’ll save my fabric…
  • I think McCalls has tried to make this an ‘easy’ pattern. The zipper. Here’s how it looks per their instructions (which are quite good and well-illustrated ). Since both fronts have cut-on extensions, the resultant zipper is very finished without added bulk:

original zipper

  • I cannot wear a zipper and its associated hardware next to my skin. So I added a fly shield. This is not hard, and there’s lots of help available online, for adding this step-up feature. If you think you might want to use one, just plan ahead in your zipper construction.

fly shield

  • Let’s talk basting. I love love to baste stuff – stitching lines, detail lines, seams. I just take out my long quilters basting needle and go to it. For these pants, which feature 8 pleats in the waistline area, I marked my pieces with chalk and a tracing wheel, and then used a long loose stitch on my machine to cement those critical lines. In a contrast color of course!

basting lines

  • The instructions are good, but don’t include basics like interfacing (the zipper extensions, the pocket edges) or that zipper essential, bar tacks. I added the latter. They secure the fly shield and the bottom of the zipper opening. Again, online research can help anyone not familiar with finishing a zipper:

bar tacks

  • And, my belt loop secret. I cannot stand it when my belt buckle slips up and my pants slip down, right there in the middle of my britches! So I add a fourth belt loop in the front, spaced so that there’s room for the buckle.

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Don’t’ hesitate – just do it πŸ™‚

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  • The fabric. It’s 100% linen from Fabric Mart. Dense black color with nice slubs. First wash: I had black ‘thingies’ all inside the washer and a lot of lint in the dryer. This is predictable for linen, most of the shrinkage and lint come with the first wash. Second wash, it was stable, and I was ready to work with it. Because I used chalk to mark details and notches, and because I know fabric can relax during sewing, I washed the pants again before I hemmed them. I LOVE this linen. It’s soft and rumpled, but not wrinkled. Wonderful fabric.

Such fun pants, a great fit, and a lovely design. I know these are very trendy in the slim capri look (views B and C), but I doubt I’ll go there. I like the swish of wide-leg pants. How cute are these for summer…

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Ciao! Coco

V8962 Valentines Skirt

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Just a quick little post today, prepping for Valentines Day. One of my favorite special days…

This skirt is done in a heavy weight Ponte from Stylish Fabrics, a perfect weight for a knit skirt. This was also my first purchase from this fabric vendor, and I’m very pleased with the fabric, shipping, and service.

What a great color, and the fabric is heavy enough that my tucked-in top doesn’t announce itself πŸ™‚

This is my second version of the V8962 skirt, and it’s quickly becoming a favorite. It just suits me, and I love all the opportunities to highlight the seven panels with topstitching on the seam allowances.

v8962 line art

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Wow, that back vent is great. In a ponte knit, it finishes beautifully.

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I made this version exactly as my first (here). So just a few more pics. I feel really pretty and trendy in this style! And it speaks to my new year’s resolution to add form-fitting designs to my closet.

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Top: Grainline Studio crew-neck Lark Tee

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Happy Valentines Day!

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Ciao! Coco

M7726 High Waist Pants muslin!

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Just had to do it…

I was an avid fan of bag-waist pants and shorts back in the 80’s. Remember the ones in washed denim? Well, I still love them, and I’m so happy to find this pattern from McCalls.

Honestly, I never considered wearing these with any kind of sash, so the picture above is my only nod to that part of the pattern (it would be very pretty for some occasions).

This pattern is fully loaded! but the line art is not intuitive.

Views A and D:

  • These are the wider version from my past.
  • The pleats are open above the waist area, which gives that paper bag effect.

Views B and C:

  • These are a classic slim cut,
  • And the pleats are closed all the way to the top, which gives a fitted high-waist effect.

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My muslin is View A/D, cut to the knee so that I could see the fit through the rise and hipline.

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Cute!

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Sewing notes:

  • I cut a straight size 12.
  • My only adjustment was to release the front pleats just a little. Since I’ll wear these with a belt, leaving a little ease in the waist works really well. Since the pleats are the last step in construction, this fit adjustment is a piece of cake.
  • Be sure to mark all the notches and circles on the pattern. You’ll need them!
  • And I recommend following the instruction to baste or thread trace the pleat lines, or you might lose your sanity trying to sew straight pleats.

basting

  • A tip: mark the pleat lines on the right side of your fabric, not the inside. The very deep waistline facing would cover any markings on the inside.

Here a few closeups of the waist and pocket details. Not the best photos, but I tried to show the stitching and so on.

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Making these will be fun, and I’m scouting for some of that soft washed denim.

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Ciao! Coco

My long hoodie muslin

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My current project, keeping me out of trouble…a muslin of a long hoodie. This has been fun!

Please excuse any blurry photos. My laptop is acting up, it’s old, on Windows 7 because it cannot handle Windows 10. In fact I’ve ordered a Mac Air 2 to replace it. OK. Yes, I’m excited and broke at the same time πŸ™‚

So – I’m so intrigued by the long hoodies I see on Pinterest. Kind of up my alley. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I order M7634 for a starting point for drafting a long hoodie ( I’m only showing the line art for the long top here, but it has fantastic knit pants as well):

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And check it out!

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This is a very modified draft. M7634 is a top and/or dress, very slim through the torso and sleeves. So I drafted my tissue using the B6251 jacket pattern as the basis for my upper bodice, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. What was left? well, that wonderful hood and the hemline bands.

hood up

Honestly, I love messing with patterns. Although admittedly, not all of my mash-ups turn out as well as this one.

Originally, I thought I would add a button band (not wanting to put a zipper in a knit fabric):

my line art

And I did it, using a couple fleece blankets from the drug store, $6 investment. Confession time, I mistakenly cut the whole thing on the cross-grain, which left no stretch horizontally, and the entire thing was too tight. Oh well πŸ™‚

This muslin is also done in fleece blankets from the store, but I changed the front edge. I simply added a cut-on facing to match the width of the fold on the hood. It gives really nice continuity to the flow from the hood down the front. If I were to use snaps or a zipper, I would cut the band separately to allow for interfacing (this version has none) and/or a seam to enclose the zipper tape.

Sewing notes:

  • I like the idea of the hem bands, but wanted mine to curve in just a little. So I simply took 3/8″ out of each band and stretched it to fit.
  • I didn’t add sleeve cuffs – my wrists are so sensitive (scleroderma has shrunken them from 7″ to 6″), so I went for a simple hemmed sleeve.
  • I’ve always been a little intimidated by that seam, hood to neckline, wondering how to finish it without raw edges. Following a nice tutorial on Craftsy, I finished mine with twill tape. Not purple tape, mine is black, what I had hanging around – but remember, this is a muslin. The twill tape is a nice and really easy technique.

twill

twill 2

  • As always I looked online for other versions of m7634. What I noticed most was that the shoulders and hood neckline were loosey-goosey. Stretched out, and just not something I would wear. I tamed the tiger by using tricot knit fusible in the shoulders, and, of course, that twill tape in the neckline/hood seam.

 

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Now I have a great pattern draft, makes me dangerous. I really want to make a long hoodie in sweatshirt fabric. Classic grey?

Ciao! Coco