For this one, I used the body and just let myself go.
Before I go further, this is based on View B neckline, View A yoke, and the basic body of the jacket. More below.
I was after a zip-front with a stand-up collar, mostly because I was using fleece. Kind of a quasi-athletic jacket with lots of ease and so on. And lots of detail and fun stuff.
A challenge? yes, but I did decide that I was willing to sacrifice this fabric if nothing worked 🙂
As noted, my starting point was Butterick 5533, which I’ve made in many fabrics with a bunch of fun twists.
I sewed the View B collar, which is pretty straight forward. The pattern uses the same front and back for either collar selection.
The back is loosely based on View A, but I removed a lot of the width and just gathered the skirt fabric under the yoke.
The pockets, well, I rounded the bottom edge. Not a big change, but more interesting. I keep a folder of pockets, cowls, bowties, and so on, so this shape was borrowed. I also lined them, as I don’t want to stuff in my hands and distort the fabric – this is fleece!
The biggest change: I decided to put in a separating zipper, instead of using a button front. So I drafted a new front with a 5/8 seam allowance at the center front. And I did the same to the front facing. This is an easy change, do not be afraid to do this, on any pattern! I ran the zipper about 1″ into the collar to provide stabilization and continuity to the entire vision I had. This is a #10 30″ zipper from Wawak.
I used lots of topstitching. Fleece loves topstitching definition, and the additional threads add stability to the lines of the fabric and garment. Here is the beautiful cuff design (on the pattern), with lots of detail.
Thoughts on sewing fleece:
I just put this jacket in the dryer for a lint-catching tumble. And I vacumned and dusted my entire house. Everything I wore while making this is in the wash, pink lint everywhere, little tiny pieces, aarrgh. Almost sneezing. Lesson, just relax and go with it, when sewing fleece or fur (I cut out fur outside in my carport!!)
Fleece has a lot of mechanical stretch in all directions and on the bias. Here’s how I pinned the seams – but I also staystiched the neckline, front edge, etc., etc., to combat distortion. I used a long stitch and actually increased the upper thread tension to ensure that the stitches and fabric sides had an even tension. The best approach, of course, is to experiment with your fabric, across the bias, horizontal, vertical, on both your sewing machine and your serger. Seems like a lot, but it’s a bespoke and custom garment, right? One of a kind…
I really love this jacket, even though I’m done with pink and fleece 🙂
Our temperature dropped into the 50’s Saturday night, which, in Florida, means fleece jacket gratification!
I made this leopard version of B5533 last spring, and I’ve waited until now to wear it 🙂 It’s simply one of my favorite jacket patterns (marigold fleece version here).
Photographs of the details are difficult in this print, but I’ll give it a try.
The jacket is a combination of view A (front and collar) and View B (back and pockets).
I drafted a front yoke to add topstitching interest and to break up the visual length of the fabric. This is fleece – no way will I try buttonholes in fleece. For closure, I used #4 snaps with buttons on the outside right front.
My collar points are rounded, which IMHO adds a softer and more elegant aspect around the face.
The view B back is so pretty, I love the deeply curved inset.
I also made some small fitting adjustments, described in my marigold post.
Love it! Today I’m waiting for house painters to arrive, the next big step for the house. I just had a call from Lowes to advise me that my refrigerator, promised for tomorrow, is delayed until the end of November (mine has a leaky drip pan). That’s OK, I’m so happy here in my new pad.
A little play time – I know I get enthusiastic about things I love, but I adore this jacket!
It happened that I had two pieces of marigold cotton sweatshirt fleece from two different vendors. They are identical, which means I probably have a pair of PJ bottoms in my future, using the remnants.
I’ve made this pattern before in red fleece (here), and it’s a favorite.
My original inspiration was a pic taken by Shams on her trip with the Tilton sisters to Paris. Stunning. I haven’t made it in a long version, but really really like to do it 🙂
Back to my jacket! Great sleek vibe, I love wearing it with the collar turned up.
Sewed View A, which has an attached collar, and I used the changes I made on my first version.
Added 2″ to the length.
Dropped the front curved edge about 1 3/4″ and trued it back into the curve of the hem.
Added 1 1/2″ to the sleeve length.
Made curved bottom pockets. This pic shows the prepped pocket – seam allowances clipped at the curve, basted, and ready to be sewn on the jacket.
Topstitching detail on the front. Sweatshirt fleece just invites a bit of art.
A tip – clip out the seam allowance at the side hem before turning it. I like to reduce seam bulk at every opportunity!
And one more tip. I laundered the fabric twice, and I still had some fleece pills on the inside of the fabric. Nothing a quick de-fuzz couldn’t fix once I was finished sewing:-)
Truth time – this is by far my favorite of my two marigold jackets. I’m thinking navy fleece, perhaps that long version…
It’s officially fall in the loft, time for a new jacket and a new pattern!
Butterick 6107 is lovely and interesting to sew. I originally bought it with the standup collar in mind, but I was put off by the way the collar looks when it’s open. No problem – I love shawl collar jackets and coats!
My choices: size Small, View A, the length of View C, and the pockets from View B.
My fabric is Marigold 100% cotton sweatshirt fleece from Fabric Mart. It has only mechanical stretch and is what I would characterize as mid-weight.
The collar is cut-on rather than attached. I know this scares some folks, but the pattern pieces fit perfectly, and the inside corners were easy to sew. Another nice feature: the upper collar is slightly wider than the under collar to allow for the turn of the cloth. A lot of patterns don’t bother to do this.
My buttons are 7/8″ faux tortoise shell, with sew-on snaps for the actual closure. I did lots of looking and found beautiful 15mm bronze snaps by Cotowin on Amazon. BTW, Amazon is a great place to look for studs and snaps, the variety is amazing.
The patterns calls for lined pockets, but given the weight of my fabric, I drafted mine with an interfaced cut-on facing.
Here comes more fun – the back! It’s plain on the pattern, but I split it into 2 pieces just below the armscye. I think the topstitching on the collar, the hem, and this new seam add a lot of interest to the back view.
Oh, this is such a nice jacket, and I love wearing it.
We had a nice Halloween night here in my little community, complete with a pizza party at the clubhouse to get some food into the kids’ tummies ahead of all that candy. Most of my neighbors have left their decorations in place, I think everyone is simply enjoying the season.
Parting shot: I had to do it, Starbucks kicked off it holiday flavors today with free reusable cups 🙂 Did anyone else splurge on a peppermint mocha latte?
No, I’m not losing my marbles, but I’ll admit this muslin has a bit of personality.
Despite its Easy rating, this lined Lisette coat is a fairly complex design. Tricky bits – the one-piece shawl collar, side/sleeve gusset, and pocket detail. Kick in a lining, and it’s definitely not a beginner project.
Note the slight narrowing of the silhouette – it’s real (hence the back pleat), and it does encourage the coat to open below the button, as seen on the model. Since I purchased the pattern to make a jacket, the latter doesn’t bother me.
I sewed the size Small – great fit.
My jacket is unlined, since I would seldom need the warmth of a lining.
I shortened the length by 7.5″, to finish at 29.5″ below the base of the neck.
Of course the back seam is too low for a jacket profile, so I raised it to finish about 3/4″ below the side/sleeve gusset seam. And I decided to gather the back skirt, rather than use a pleat (pleats that go awry make me nuts).
Once I had the jacket constructed, I played with the collar. Without the ‘balance’ of the longer length, the collar is just too wide. I narrowed one side (the arrow side) so I could compare the two. I’m going with the narrowed version.
I know it’s hard to picture this jacket with all the fabric noise – squinting helps 🙂
And it’s time to think about a suitable fabric. The pattern suggests wool blends, boiled wool, mohair, wool flannel, and tweeds, and I agree a soft but stable fabric would work best.
Thinking of everyone impacted by severe weather this week, I hope you, your friends, and your loved ones are safe.