My long hoodie muslin

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My current project, keeping me out of trouble…a muslin of a long hoodie. This has been fun!

Please excuse any blurry photos. My laptop is acting up, it’s old, on Windows 7 because it cannot handle Windows 10. In fact I’ve ordered a Mac Air 2 to replace it. OK. Yes, I’m excited and broke at the same time 🙂

So – I’m so intrigued by the long hoodies I see on Pinterest. Kind of up my alley. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I order M7634 for a starting point for drafting a long hoodie ( I’m only showing the line art for the long top here, but it has fantastic knit pants as well):

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And check it out!

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This is a very modified draft. M7634 is a top and/or dress, very slim through the torso and sleeves. So I drafted my tissue using the B6251 jacket pattern as the basis for my upper bodice, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. What was left? well, that wonderful hood and the hemline bands.

hood up

Honestly, I love messing with patterns. Although admittedly, not all of my mash-ups turn out as well as this one.

Originally, I thought I would add a button band (not wanting to put a zipper in a knit fabric):

my line art

And I did it, using a couple fleece blankets from the drug store, $6 investment. Confession time, I mistakenly cut the whole thing on the cross-grain, which left no stretch horizontally, and the entire thing was too tight. Oh well 🙂

This muslin is also done in fleece blankets from the store, but I changed the front edge. I simply added a cut-on facing to match the width of the fold on the hood. It gives really nice continuity to the flow from the hood down the front. If I were to use snaps or a zipper, I would cut the band separately to allow for interfacing (this version has none) and/or a seam to enclose the zipper tape.

Sewing notes:

  • I like the idea of the hem bands, but wanted mine to curve in just a little. So I simply took 3/8″ out of each band and stretched it to fit.
  • I didn’t add sleeve cuffs – my wrists are so sensitive (scleroderma has shrunken them from 7″ to 6″), so I went for a simple hemmed sleeve.
  • I’ve always been a little intimidated by that seam, hood to neckline, wondering how to finish it without raw edges. Following a nice tutorial on Craftsy, I finished mine with twill tape. Not purple tape, mine is black, what I had hanging around – but remember, this is a muslin. The twill tape is a nice and really easy technique.

twill

twill 2

  • As always I looked online for other versions of m7634. What I noticed most was that the shoulders and hood neckline were loosey-goosey. Stretched out, and just not something I would wear. I tamed the tiger by using tricot knit fusible in the shoulders, and, of course, that twill tape in the neckline/hood seam.

 

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Now I have a great pattern draft, makes me dangerous. I really want to make a long hoodie in sweatshirt fabric. Classic grey?

Ciao! Coco

B5533 Microfleece jacket…

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Long time no see! I’ve been visiting family and  doing a lot of sewing. A couple nice keepers and one miserable failure (future posts).

Here’s a recently sewn jacket, a variation of a favorite pattern from Butterick. It’s done in ‘Taxi Yellow’ microfleece from Fabric Mart, and it kept me warm through 5 cold days in Orlando last week. Nice!

B5533 line art

I first made this pattern 4 years, with a lined hood taken from a cape pattern, B5807. It fit perfectly on the View A neckline! It was also fleece, but was a very lightweight and stable variety from JoAnns. My new jacket is mid-weight fleece and has a lot more stretch.

Original

This time, I used View A for the front,

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and View B for the back.

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So far I haven’t put on the pockets, but I think I will, since I keep reaching for them. Mine have rounded corners at the bottom, pretty cute.

Something else I rounded was the point on the collar. I just didn’t want to struggle with the point and end up  with a rounded collar anyway because of the bulky fabric!

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I generally avoid the angst of sewing buttonholes in fleece, so I used four snaps (size 4) for closure – with buttons sewn in place on the outside. Works great.

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I just love the back detail and two-piece sleeves.

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Sewing notes:

  • Size 12.
  • To break up the front a bit, I cut it with a yoke.

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  • I used 3/8″ topstitching throughout.
  • There was lots of staystitching and basting during the construction! Although the fleece has no vertical stretch, it has 80% stretch across the width. Had to tame that beast…
  • The sleeves on the pattern are short – I added 1″.
  • Fusible interfacing doesn’t work on fleece, so I used sewn-in broadcloth interfacing on the collar and front facing.
  • I raised the armscye by 1/2″ at the shoulder to compensate for the stretch in the material.
  • And I flattened the sleeve head quite a bit to fit the armscye with no gathers.
  • For a little Jungle January fun, I faced the back yoke with an animal print. It also serves as a facing for the back neckline.

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It’s almost 7 p.m, time for the Australian Tennis Open! Bye for now – Coco

B6251 Cute jacket!

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It’s perfect weather for working on jackets and coats.

This was quite a project. This pattern is intended for sweater knits, ponte, and blanket knits. The latter led me to try this in poly sherpa fleece. Interesting…

It’s a nice pattern with unexpected collar options. Views A and B have an attached collar, whereas views C and D have a ‘traditional’ shawl collar (the front extends into the collar).

B6251 line art

Just for giggles, here’s the line art from last year’s B6406 – exactly the same as views B and C on B6251. Go figure.

B6402 line art

Anyway…I did a muslin of this several years ago, view A, the jacket, in a very stable ponte from Girl Charlee.

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I found that the center front ended right at my crotch (I hate that word). And that the collar turned very nicely in the ponte. I even did buttonholes!

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I tried to use that info on this fleece version, and was partly successful. I added 2″ to the length and also lowered the CF curve by 1.5″. The jacket ends in a nice place in front – but the collar is just too bulky to do a natural fold.

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Lemonade! Actually, I love this with the collar up! It’s so warm on the back of my neck.

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It’s meant to have a 3-snap closure, but for now they’re on order from Wawak. No way am I attempting buttonholes in fleece. This jacket will live in my car, to be grabbed for that cold cold trip into the grocery. The place that will trigger my Raynoud’s syndrome if I don’t wrap up (pic is from last December, after shopping for Xmas groceries). I asked once – they keep the A/C on 70 degrees.

Raynauds Dec 2016 (2)

Moving on – the ponte coat fail, BurdaStyle 90/2010 #127. I love the design and style, but it is just too big for me, even after I re-drafted it. I think the issue is that I used 4-way stretch ponte. It just keeps growing. It’s not meant for a knit, but I just had to try it 🙂 It’s so pretty.

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Parting shot: my Three Kings Day zygo cactus. Our cool weather kicks in a little late for Christmas blooms.

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What next? After a rather rocky start to 2018 sewing, I’ll have to think about that a bit. Tempting me – I still have a taxi yellow fleece in my stash. Outrageous, right?!

taxi

Ciao! Coco

 

B6296 – Summer (campin’) shirt

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Sometimes I think I’m like a puppy – I just keep shaking that new toy. I mentioned in an earlier post that the top from the Butterick 6296 pajama pattern would make a great camp shirt. I had a large remnant of Michael Miller cotton couture in the stash, so I decided to give it a go.  Bingo! It’s really cute.

B6296_a-horz

A couple pics with the shirt worn outside – I had to take these first since I knew it would get all wrinkly once I tucked it in my britches.

out 1

I used the cutting line from View A, which is shorter, and then shortened it another 2″, using the scientific eyeballing method and the back length of my TSW Trio Shirt.

out 2

I did want to ditch the PJ look as much as possible, so I didn’t use edging detail on the sleeve band. Instead, I added a curved corner to each end of the band, and then attached it ‘upside down’.

sleeve

I really like this small, easy change. It also occurred to me that it also would be simple to widen the band and create a cuff.

side 1

No changes to the collar – it’s so pretty, and I like it much more than a pointed collar. It’s a generous width and really behaves. No fear of flying with this convertible collar style – without a collar band, collars are very easy to sew.

collar

A couple more pics. It’s way too hot now for jeans, but these are my favorites. I made them several years ago in mid-weight denim,  using the McCalls 6291 cargo pants pattern (great for shorts as well).

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front 2

Well, I think I’m done with this pattern for a while – but it was fun trying various looks with it. And I love my PJ sets.  I’m giving it 5 stars!

Parting shots – it’s Mother’s Day! From my dear not-so-little ones…from david

David sent these incredible flowers from my favorite florist, ‘Art of Flowers’. For years he sent me orchids, which kept expiring under my care. A hit to my gardener ego, but in reality, orchids from florists are tender. They’ve been handled way too much, chilled, warmed, and mushed. I love getting flowers – my living room smells heavenly.

From my creative Ashley, a precious memory of dancing together in the kitchen…

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Hope this special day brings nice memories to all – Bye for now, Coco

 

Butterick 6296 – More PJ fun

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I’m feeling pretty spiffy with my new PJs. I knew one set was not enough. Now that I’ve sewn another, I’m not sure that two are enough! These PJs are definitely fun to sew and wear. B6296_a-horz

This cute fabric is Michael Miller Color Me Black Fish Frenzy, printed on wonderful Cotton Couture broadcloth.  The design credits on the fabric selvedge sent me looking on the web. Surprise – the print is by Hayley Crouse of Mouse House Creations (designer of the Julia Cardigan and lots of children’s patterns). Michael Miller collaborated with Hayley on a ‘color me’ fabric concept in 2015.

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Source: Michael Miller Fabrics

Originally the prints were deliberately ‘childish’ and targeted at children wielding fabric pens, but eventually the collection featured more sophisticated designs in black and white reverse prints (here’s a link to Hayley’s blog post about her fabric).

I love fish! and all sea creatures, in art, fabric, mixed media, however they come. In this case, on my PJs…

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Something I forgot to mention on my first PJ post – I added a back facing to the top, instead of the suggested collar finish (turn and tack the edge of the upper collar). IMO, a facing is a much nicer finish, and it’s not difficult – it’s much easier than piping or edging details, banded hemlines, a collar… Bad on the pattern company for taking a shortcut.

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Nonetheless, I forgive them – this is an intriguing and versatile pattern. It would be easy to use the top for a camp shirt, the pants for shorts (great slant pockets), and I’ve already made a pair of out-and-about pants. Not to be overlooked, pajamas as street wear…

harpers bazaar
Source: Harpers Bazaar

I’m not sure I’m ready for the full monty, but I do like my fish version.

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Parting shot: a lot of my own artwork features the ocean and its denizens, and often it reflects the vibe of a place that was special to me. I did this pen and ink when I was living on Key Biscayne in the 90’s. The shells were collected over many visits to Sanibel Island, a shelling paradise on the west coast of Florida.

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Pic taken thru the frame/glass, no flash…

Ciao! Coco