Oh boy! I love the way these Jackies wear, look, and feel! After a muslin (here) and an unhappy version in 100% linen, I hit the jackpot with Kaufman Brussels washer linen/rayon blend.
The difference between the linen and the linen/rayon blend is drape and hand. IMHO, with such deep pleats and wide legs, these pants really need to flow…not a 100% linen characteristic.
I stayed with size US8/UK12, which I chose based on my waist measurement.
I left all my cut pieces pinned to the tissue while I marked notches with small brass pins in the seam allowance. As I removed the tissue, I took the pieces straight to my serger and serged every edge. Just look at linens and they begin to ravel! It’s easy to remove unneeded serging – just find the needle threads and pull them out, it’s fun actually 🙂
I ditched the cuff, which is a simple matter of removing 3″ from the hemline. And I laundered the trousers before I hemmed them. The latter might seem like an extra step, but it removes chalk and pencil marks and refreshes the fabric.
The waistband is a bit narrow for my favorite belts. I added 1/2” to width of waistband pattern – mine finishes at 1 3/4” wide instead of 1 1/2” wide.
Caution: in the absence of guidance from the instructions regarding interfacing, follow your experience! I.e., interface the front fly extensions, fly shield (variously called a shield or a placket, how confusing), and the entire width of the waistband. And be sure to reinforce the bias cut edge of the pocket lining with a strip of interfacing or twill tape.
I made the recommended 5 belt loops, but I also made a slightly narrower additional loop. I always put this helper loop on my belted pants. It sits to the left of the fly and serves to secure the end of the belt – I’m just not into flapping belts…
And after all that, the fit, notes, and so on, here is how I plan to wear these cuties…
For me, irresistible…From By Hand London, a classic trouser.
I only discovered this pattern because Victoria Smith made them and shared on Instagram! I love her pants. I messaged Victoria about her experience, how she chose a size, and so on. A link to herIGram posts...
Going into the project, I was very aware of the volume created by the front pleats and wide legs. So I decided to choose my size based on my waist, the anchor of it all. I drafted the US 8/UK 12 size, waist 32″. I intend to belt these, and my relaxed waist is 31.5″, so it seemed a logical choice. The pattern is very generous with finished measurements info, including front and back crotch length. And the size I chose was spot on for both. Some time ago, I went to great lengths and much angst to determine my front and back crotch lengths. And having done so, find the measurements to be invaluable when sewing any pant pattern. Hint…do it.
Moving on, time for some pics:
A muslin is a must for pants. I used 118″ Fabri-Quilt Cotton Sateen for mine, found on Amazon. Actually, it was a good choice – the fabric has much more drape than cotton muslin, and they cost about the same.
I really like to use a cut-on fly extension on both sides of a pant front. It accomodates the fly shield more readily than one without it. So I only drafted the needed pattern, on the left below..
Construction. The instruction set has you construct the front and back, sew them together, and then insert the zipper/fly. What nonsense.
I constructed the fronts and inserted the zipper. Then I sewed the back darts and then put back and front together.
About the zipper. Even twisting my mind, I could not comprehend the instruction set, and I fell back on my favorite zipper tutorial from ClosetCorePatterns. Recommended!
The pockets… I have to constrain myself. I’ve never seen a pocket bag that went from side seam to under the zipper extension. Kind of like a tummy firmer. I did change the pocket! The shadow of the new pocket is well-hidden behind the front pleats.
The fly shield is narrow, so I added 5/8″ to the width. It is not ‘finished’ in the pic, but you get the idea.
I am really happy with the result! And have a beautiful fabric in the wings, from The Fabric-Store. They have incredible sales, available through their email alerts. And beautiful patterns that embrace linen/linen blends.
Next post on the trousers will be the finished version, I’m delighted to be so immersed in this interesting project. Bye for now! Coco