Oh boy! I love the way these Jackies wear, look, and feel! After a muslin (here) and an unhappy version in 100% linen, I hit the jackpot with Kaufman Brussels washer linen/rayon blend.
The difference between the linen and the linen/rayon blend is drape and hand. IMHO, with such deep pleats and wide legs, these pants really need to flow…not a 100% linen characteristic.
Sewing notes:
- I stayed with size US8/UK12, which I chose based on my waist measurement.
- I left all my cut pieces pinned to the tissue while I marked notches with small brass pins in the seam allowance. As I removed the tissue, I took the pieces straight to my serger and serged every edge. Just look at linens and they begin to ravel! It’s easy to remove unneeded serging – just find the needle threads and pull them out, it’s fun actually 🙂
- I ditched the cuff, which is a simple matter of removing 3″ from the hemline. And I laundered the trousers before I hemmed them. The latter might seem like an extra step, but it removes chalk and pencil marks and refreshes the fabric.
- The waistband is a bit narrow for my favorite belts. I added 1/2” to width of waistband pattern – mine finishes at 1 3/4” wide instead of 1 1/2” wide.
- Caution: in the absence of guidance from the instructions regarding interfacing, follow your experience! I.e., interface the front fly extensions, fly shield (variously called a shield or a placket, how confusing), and the entire width of the waistband. And be sure to reinforce the bias cut edge of the pocket lining with a strip of interfacing or twill tape.
- I made the recommended 5 belt loops, but I also made a slightly narrower additional loop. I always put this helper loop on my belted pants. It sits to the left of the fly and serves to secure the end of the belt – I’m just not into flapping belts…
Picture time!
And after all that, the fit, notes, and so on, here is how I plan to wear these cuties…
Happy New Year to all! Ciao, Coco
Coco's Loft 