Vogue 9275 Kaftan Variation

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I’m working my way through 9 yards of this fabric! More on that later – but this is a wonderful and easy variation of the tunic top included in V9275.

V9275

I stripped it down to essentials (no curved hem or collar cord), and added 40″ to the length, marked from the waistline. For reference, I’m 5’7″, and 57″ from shoulder to the floor. And I sewed the size XS – this is a very roomy top. But the sizing really extends its possibilities across many sizes and shapes.

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It’s hard to see details on black fabric, so Emile is modeling the kaftan to show the inside:

inside 1

I love the cowl – it’s just about perfect in this cotton/lycra jersey.

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The sleeves are deep enough to be very comfortable, and long enough not to allow inside peeks.

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This is one of my favorite projects this year!

Fabric Kit

 

The fabric. I mistakenly ordered two fabric kits from Fabric Mart, instead of one. For $8 each. The kit included 4.5 yards of jersey and the Christine Jonson #526 wrap dress. I’m actually glad I did it, this print is so appealing.

And it will show up again soon, in an Itch to Stitch Paro Cardigan!

Paro Cardigan

And I’m off to work on the cardi. Bye for now – Coco

McCalls 6559 Spring floral

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Spring is definitely here! All the palms and trees are blooming (pollen season), and the birds appear to be having lots of fun 🙂 In the same spirit, I picked up this pretty ITY from Fabric Mart for a spring dress. OK, another spring dress!

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I don’t sew or wear a lot of blue. In my closet I have a cobalt jacket and my recent pink/blue tropical dress. However, I’m coming around to the notion that some blues are really pretty with white hair.

Note: I’m working with my camera and Gimp software to learn how to remove color casts, such as yellow, from my pics. My hair is so white, I think it’s impacting all the hues in my photos. I’ll get there!

I love this dress pattern, especially with the extended shoulder that I added this spring.

M6559 lines-side

That little bit of extra coverage on my upper arm makes a big difference to me.

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Sewing notes:

  • ITY is stretchy! I staystitched the neckline, front and back, and used strips of tricot knit fusible on the shoulders, to tame it.

strips and neckline

  • I used self-fabric binding on the neckline, 1 1/2″ wide strips cut across the horizontal of the fabric.

binding

finished binding

  • And to prevent irritation from the shoulder seam, I pressed it to the back and topstitched it. Now it’s really stable!

finished shoulder

  • All of the detail sewing – shoulders, sleeves, neckline – was done on the sewing machine. But I simply serged the long seams. That felt really good…

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About ITY knit: I love the vibrance of color on this fabric. It doesn’t fade, and it takes a lot of wear. Also, although it may seem unnecessary, it benefits from lots of pressing during the sewing process. Actually, I press every seam or detail that I sew, over and over again, to sink the threads and allow the fabric to recover. Speaking of which, ITY will drop – I always hang an ITY garment for a day or so before I hem it, whether it’s a dress, top, or pants. The best thing – you can just fold it up on the shelf or in a drawer or in a suitcase. It doesn’t wrinkle!

Parting shot: I think buying stuff from Wawak is more fun than buying makeup and nail polish!

Yes, there’s a red jacket in my future, and what a find – a 6″ metal ruler. All the markings on my plastic one are long gone, but I find a 6″ ruler to be indispensable when I’m sewing. Also, check out those buttons. They’re 5/8″ Toronto horn buttons, and they fit perfectly over a #4 snap on fleece jackets. A nice button can be hard to find, and Wawak has a great selection.

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Ciao! Coco

McCalls 6559 Knit Maxi version 2

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Oh, let’s do a happy post! I look so morose in my last one – I had just gotten some bad news re. my heart (has been under watch since last fall), and it showed. I almost deleted the post! but writing on my blog is so good for me (you are wonderful friends). So I left it.

I reached out to my precious children, kept sewing, and today, my pics reflect how I feel now. I’m an optimist, and the only thing on my fridge is something my son told me just after I was diagnosed with scleroderma: Happiness is a decision you make.

Another ITY maxi dress using my modified version of McCalls 6559. This is so much fun, and I simply love how these ITY dresses feel.

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This print is pretty funky. It goes across the horizontal of the fabric, from small flowers to larger ones! And the vertical repeat is something like 30″. I just went with the flow 🙂

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I managed to avoid flowers on the girls, but admit that I kind of have them elsewhere…

Don’t care!

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Just a note on the fabric. When I purchased it, I thought the print was vertical. Which I would love. But it’s not, and placing a pattern across the ‘grain’/stretch of ITY is a recipe for disaster. It would grow vertically and just keep on growing. Now that the dress is done, and I’ve worn it, I’m very happy with this interesting print. It’s perfect for an uncluttered design, something that accentuates it.

I did have to place the front and back down my entire 3 yard piece to keep things copasetic. Which left me half of the yardage in one long piece. So I made a top! using Butterick 6215, the pattern from which I drafted my extended shoulder on the dress.

This top is intended for woven fabrics (as here, three years ago), but I really like the way it works with a knit (I’ve done a couple now, same size as the woven version).

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Pants: Pattern Emporium Harem Pants in ITY knit

Happy sewer here…Bye for now, Coco

McCalls 6559 Getting ready for summer

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Summer’s coming, earlier here in south Florida than in places north. Time to build that comfortable summertime wardrobe of things to wear every day!

OK, my daily life is quiet – at 70+ and retired, I climb leap out of bed and into something that is pretty, but also nice to wear all day. My favorite fabrics for that lifestyle are challis wovens and jersey knits, in a midi- or maxi-length. If it’s chilly, I get into leggings and a top. If not, into a nice dress. Admission: I cannot stand to feel the backs of my legs on the sofa! Makes me nuts…

I bought a bunch of ITY knit fabric earlier this year with summer sewing in mind. This particular print was a disappointment, because I thought the print was smaller. But it worked really well for my ‘muslin’ of my 2018 summer dress.

I just had to get the pattern in the right place. Which took about 3 yds of the fabric. Without the print matching, this dress would have worked easily in 2 yds.

So, my starting point, a great knit dress, McCalls 6559 (and I love the cardigan, I have it in black and pink).

M6559 lines

I’ve sewn it a couple times before, but this time I was going for a little upper arm coverage. So I modified the outside shoulder using Butterick 6215.

B6215 kubwa

My pattern draft:

Pattern change

Wonderful! After I took these pics for the blog, I just stayed in it. That’s a true test…

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Fabric from Fabric Mart

I have 3 more pieces of ITY, and I was thinking of other changes. But this is a winner, I think I’ll just stay with it and keep sewing 🙂

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Happy sewing! Coco

My Christmas dress – finally!

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Christmas isn’t over yet –  I just finished my holiday dress today!

I had planned to wear it up in Orlando later this week, my Christmas visit with David and Preston. But the weather is not cooperating – it will be too cool. Instead, I’ll be in leggings and long sleeve tunics. Not a problem – there’s always Valentines Day 🙂

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I fell for this cotton/lycra poplin from Fabric Mart the moment I saw it. Sewing stretch wovens is generally not something I enjoy, but the print was reason for an exception. I was careful to practice tension, presser foot pressure, needles, and stitches before I began. And I staystitched all the edges that had any bias to them.

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Not wanting something too fussy, I chose an old favorite, the Serendipity Studio Diane dress (last version here).

Diane Envelope Pic

As before, I raised the neckline, but I didn’t do anything fancy aside from rotating the print on the waistband.

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I love Christmas, it’s simply my favorite season. And it’s just about the only time I paint my fingernails, mostly because sewing is brutal on nail polish! But my toe nails are always red. Florida is sandal city all year…

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Polish: China Glaze “The Heat is On”

So, I managed to make this dress without too many major oops, although my seam ripper got a workout from time to time. I blew out my first waistband because the button holes were in the direction of the stretch, and I made a mess of them. Rather than replace the entire waistband, I practiced a bit, chose a heavier stabilizer, and made new button holes in a 4″ long patch. After getting it into the band, it’s not at all noticeable.

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On to new projects for the new year! I hope everyone is enjoying this wonderful season.

Coco