Fibre Mood Tilda dress variations

Fuzzy photo time – apology! I’ve been working on this dress for what feels like ages. I started with an inspiration dress and blouse, and landed on the Fibre Mood Tilda because of all the possibilities. My targets:

and the Tilda, with planned changes:

Being wary of the curves, I did an entire muslin, with and without a sleeve. And worked it until it fit.

OK, I think this is really blah on me. And it will be shortened to blouse length and worn with white summer pants.

Nonetheless, some sewing notes:

• The fabric is a Telio rayon/cotton 50/50 blend. The cotton adds just enough structure to make this a dream to sew. From Fabric.com by way of Amazon.
• My dress is a meld of sizes 12 – 14.! Because the pdf file is layered, this is fairly easy to do.
• I printed my pattern without the offered seam allowances, which vary from 3/8″ to 1/4″, and I added a 1/2″ SA everywhere. I never never ever use a SA of less than 1/2″ on woven fabrics because raveled edges are such a hazard.
• I left off the collar and faced the entire neckline (the pattern suggests bias binding on the neckline). IMHO a facing is essential to anchor a garment built in lightweight fabric.

• And I totally cheated by stitching down the closed front placket in line with the button placement, to prevent those unsightly gaps that can happen when one is seated. My buttons are sewn through the facings, not a buttonhole in sight!

In the end, I think I have a decent blouse pattern and a perfect template for a lovely v-neckline. And I’m off to work on my jigsaw puzzle. This dress was exhausting and remains an object for contemplation in the closet for now.

Ciao! Coco

Spring sewing plans…

La de da – it’s spring. And I’m finally thinking of sewing again (yes, my sewjo has run away for several months).

After weeks of cruising the internet, here’s what I’ve planned:

I ventured again in the world outside the Big 4 and purchased the Fibre Mood Tilda dress. Having sewn the Ermine blouse and the Rya shacket, I am so happy with the designs, drafting, instruction sets, and support from Fibre Mood. Any trepidation is offset by huge photo galleries and reviews from other sewists – which I love as a reference.

I think this is a subtle pattern. Sewn as a blouse it very closely resembles the more expensive Friday Pattern Company Patina Blouse. As a dress, it has lots of options. Here’s how I envision my first version, no collar, cap sleeve:

Rayon/cotton voile, Fabric.com

And how could I move into spring and summer without a couple maxi dresses. I’m using a favorite, McCall 6559, in two ity fabrics.

Meanwhile, I’m staying out of trouble by working on my latest jigsaw puzzle!

For now – Coco

Fibre Mood Ermine Blouse – delightful

It’s that strange time of the year, between Christmas and the New Year. Wishing for more Christmas, anticipating the end of a year. So – I got myself into gear, makeup, camera, some action. Got to go for it and get off my stool.

I love this pattern. And I was totally inspired by a post by BloglessAnna, her Ermine is so beautiful. Sometimes, whether I really can port a pattern or not, I want to try it. This is one of those, and I am so glad I did.

It is beyond cute and appealing. Winter is here in central Florida, I am scouting my closet, but it is mostly warm weather tops. This pattern is a welcome change. A woven fabric, sleeves, perfect over my linen pants wardrobe, and, OK, jeans, although I seldom wear them. I love my jeans, but they often get overlooked because they are in a drawer, not in my closet. hmmm

Going straight into sewing notes:

• Size Medium.

• I drafted all pieces wih 1/2” SA. The original varies from 1/6” to 3/8″, but if I’m sewing with challis or something similar, I want a wider seam allowance..

• I Added 3/8” to width of upper back and front bodice, both sides of center. If you look at the line art, the very high shoulder is evident. The design, the sleeve cap and high back yoke, reminds me of dresses worn in the 1800’s. I have broad shoulders., so this was a good change.

• I flattened the sleeve cap to reduce gathers and pouf. Just a scant 1/4” at the center of the sleeve, drawn out about 3 1/2”. Just don’t like poufy sleeve caps…

• I drafted front and back neckline facings, 2 1/4” wide, which finish at the same width as the front band. The pattern uses bias binding to finish the neckline, IMHO, not very pretty, loosey goosey, and much more work to fit than a facing.

• Nice sleeves, they end right at the wrist bone on me. My long sleeve is 25” from shoulder, these are 23”. The pattern measurements for the sleeve are a bit weird but the sleeve worked for me.

I really like this pattern, challis is perfect, and I’ve ordered an outrageous pink/black leopard print challis for my next one. Go figure.

The end of 2021, I hope you are well and able to embrace all the changes the last year brought us. Personally, I have been challenged, and my New Year resolution is (1) to flex more to my world as it is now, and (2) to champion myself more. I’ve often felt overwhelmed. About eight years ago, my son said to me that happiness is a decision we make. On my fridge ever since…

With deep caring and best wishes for you all, my special friends, Coco

Rya Shirt Jacket weather!

I love the annual cool-down! Here in Orlando a Fibre-Mood Rya shirt jacket (aka shacket) is perfect.

After two previous Rya’s (here and here), I’m back for a third. Actually, I kept the plaid fleece but not the saffron Mammoth plaid, the colorway of the latter just was not flattering.

Onward, this time in Kaufman speckled navy Shetland flannel. Beautiful fabric! To revisit the pattern:

My previous posts have sewing notes, but here is a recap:

• The sleeve was very short on me, perhaps due to my square and broad shoulders, so I added 2” to my tissue.

• I used a 2″ wide facing for the pocket. It, and the flap facing, are done in poly/cotton Symphony broadcloth from JoAnn.

• I shortened the shirttails by 5” and the torso by 2 1/2” for an at-the-knee length. Do not mistake me – I love the longer length, to me it says olive drab or khaki duster in any port-side town. Very chic. In any event, my changes:

• I drafted back and front neckline facings at 3.25″ wide to have a finished inside and to support the large collar.

• I also drafted hem facings at 1.5” wide.

• And I used Pellon SF101 woven fusible interfacing for this version. BTW, on the fleece version I used Pellon PF45 non-woven sew-in interfacing. Fusing to fleece is just not a workable idea.

A comment on the pattern’s reliance on bias binding to finish the inside of the collar band and collar seam, the top of the pocket, and the hem. I just don’t get it! IMHO, it’s a recipe for a bulky mess that distorts important lines. Ergo my hem facings, pocket facing, neckline facings…

On the other hand, I love the demi-band collar. It has the perfect pitch to keep the collar against the neck in the back and close at the perfect spot in front. I’ve sewn a couple other coats with ‘Peter Pan’/flat collars that use the same approach.

Something new! Rather than struggle with in-seam pockets in a soft, loosely-woven fabric, I drafted patch pockets for the fronts. These are the same width as the upper pocket and are attached in line with it. Mine finished at 7 1/4″ wide and 8 1/4″ long.

Just pics!

Great jacket and super fun project. Ciao! Coco

Fibre Mood Rya jacket in mammoth flannel

How I love this fabric/pattern combo! I’ve never before sewn with Robert Kaufman mammoth plaid flannel. I was expecting something fuzzy, like pajama flannel. No! this is a midweight (6.4oz/sq yd), soft, substantial, gorgeous fabric. Kaufman also makes Shetland flannel, the same weight, but in solid variations.

Saffron colorway

Pattern here

Wandering through the construction:

• As with my first version (here), I used facings on the neckline and hemline, rather than folded bias tape. That post also has notes on size and changes to the length.

• Something I didn’t mention in my first post, the pattern does not have a separate under collar. To allow for ‘turn of the cloth’ and avoid rumpling in the under collar, I slid the under collar forward (a scant 1/4″ at the center) to shorten the underside. As in the pics below, this easy step ensures a nice contour. The the back of the collar is nice and flat, and doesn’t stick out.

• On this version, I used the side seam pockets, but moved them down. They’re sewn in Kona cotton and are stitched to the fronts to avoid flapping 🙂 Great, roomy pockets!

This is so much fun to sew, I wish I needed more jackets! But I did promise one to my daughter, so that’s good.

Here’s what I had for Christmas dinner – I love love love pimento cheese sandwiches! Wish I had leftovers…

Before I go, thank you so very much for all the lovely compliments on my last post. For now, Coco

Fibre Mood Rya Jacket

Not for the faint-hearted. This seemingly straight-forward jacket/coat has a few challenges.

I love the idea of an over-sized shirt as a jacket – the current jargon is a ‘shacket’. And this is a great place to start. It has sloping shoulders to dropped sleeves, a statement-worthy collar, and big chest pockets. Lots of appeal!

So when I found it, I was all in, what a fun look for a challenging, almost dreary, season!

Fabric: JoAnn beastly blizzard fleece

Cute, right!

Sewing notes:

• I sewed the size Small, as it is very over-sized. I haven’t mentioned my measurements for a while, so 5″ 7 1/2″, 34″ bust, 39″ hip.

• And I removed a whopping total of 7 1/2″ in the length, 2 1/2″ in the torso and another 5″ in the shirt tail hem area.

• My goal was a jacket just above my knees, so I took a lot out of the shirt tail to balance the shorter length.

The nitty gritty:

• The basic drafting is fine, i.e., pieces fit together and the silhouette delivered as promised
• The instructions are marginal and the fitting requirements are high. Caution, take your time.
• The finishing approaches are just weird. Why use bulky folded bias binding on the neckline when a nice facing would work so well. And afford a pretty look to the inside when the jacket flips open…

I drafted these facings at 3 1/4″ wide unfinished.

• And again with the folded binding, this time on the hemline, what a bunch of bulk. I drafted a facing for the hemlines, cut at 1 1/2″ unfinished. It sewed down beautifully and gives just the right amount of weight to the hem.

• I almost forgot – the instructions call for another folded bias binding on the top of the chest pocket. What! Just cut your pocket 2″ longer and do a self-facing finish.
• Cautions: the sleeve is very short, add about 3″ and do your fitting with the cuff later.
• And the pockets are at kangaroo sweatshirt length down the side seam. I ditched them, but of course one could just move them down to useful placement.

I like it! given my changes and how I will wear it here in a Florida winter. I particularly appreciate that this project has kept me very very busy for a week and has exercised both my sewing ability and my patience.

I am seldom deterred, and I am going straight into my second version in a Robert Kaufman Mammoth plaid flannel.

The fabric has arrived, it has been laundered, and I’m ready – Ciao! Coco