How I love this fabric/pattern combo! I’ve never before sewn with Robert Kaufman mammoth plaid flannel. I was expecting something fuzzy, like pajama flannel. No! this is a midweight (6.4oz/sq yd), soft, substantial, gorgeous fabric. Kaufman also makes Shetland flannel, the same weight, but in solid variations.
Wandering through the construction:
As with my first version (here), I used facings on the neckline and hemline, rather than folded bias tape. That post also has notes on size and changes to the length.
Something I didn’t mention in my first post, the pattern does not have a separate under collar. To allow for ‘turn of the cloth’ and avoid rumpling in the under collar, I slid the under collar forward (a scant 1/4″ at the center) to shorten the underside. As in the pics below, this easy step ensures a nice contour. The the back of the collar is nice and flat, and doesn’t stick out.
On this version, I used the side seam pockets, but moved them down. They’re sewn in Kona cotton and are stitched to the fronts to avoid flapping 🙂 Great, roomy pockets!
This is so much fun to sew, I wish I needed more jackets! But I did promise one to my daughter, so that’s good.
Here’s what I had for Christmas dinner – I love love love pimento cheese sandwiches! Wish I had leftovers…
Before I go, thank you so very much for all the lovely compliments on my last post. For now, Coco
Not for the faint-hearted. This seemingly straight-forward jacket/coat has a few challenges.
I love the idea of an over-sized shirt as a jacket – the current jargon is a ‘shacket’. And this is a great place to start. It has sloping shoulders to dropped sleeves, a statement-worthy collar, and big chest pockets. Lots of appeal!
So when I found it, I was all in, what a fun look for a challenging, almost dreary, season!
I sewed the size Small, as it is very over-sized. I haven’t mentioned my measurements for a while, so 5″ 7 1/2″, 34″ bust, 39″ hip.
And I removed a whopping total of 7 1/2″ in the length, 2 1/2″ in the torso and another 5″ in the shirt tail hem area.
My goal was a jacket just above my knees, so I took a lot out of the shirt tail to balance the shorter length.
The nitty gritty:
The basic drafting is fine, i.e., pieces fit together and the silhouette delivered as promised
The instructions are marginal and the fitting requirements are high. Caution, take your time.
The finishing approaches are just weird. Why use bulky folded bias binding on the neckline when a nice facing would work so well. And afford a pretty look to the inside when the jacket flips open…
I drafted these facings at 3 1/4″ wide unfinished.
And again with the folded binding, this time on the hemline, what a bunch of bulk. I drafted a facing for the hemlines, cut at 1 1/2″ unfinished. It sewed down beautifully and gives just the right amount of weight to the hem.
I almost forgot – the instructions call for another folded bias binding on the top of the chest pocket. What! Just cut your pocket 2″ longer and do a self-facing finish.
Cautions: the sleeve is very short, add about 3″ and do your fitting with the cuff later.
And the pockets are at kangaroo sweatshirt length down the side seam. I ditched them, but of course one could just move them down to useful placement.
I like it! given my changes and how I will wear it here in a Florida winter. I particularly appreciate that this project has kept me very very busy for a week and has exercised both my sewing ability and my patience.
I am seldom deterred, and I am going straight into my second version in a Robert Kaufman Mammoth plaid flannel.
The fabric has arrived, it has been laundered, and I’m ready – Ciao! Coco