Fibre Mood Rya jacket in mammoth flannel

How I love this fabric/pattern combo! I’ve never before sewn with Robert Kaufman mammoth plaid flannel. I was expecting something fuzzy, like pajama flannel. No! this is a midweight (6.4oz/sq yd), soft, substantial, gorgeous fabric. Kaufman also makes Shetland flannel, the same weight, but in solid variations.

Saffron colorway
Pattern here

Wandering through the construction:

  • As with my first version (here), I used facings on the neckline and hemline, rather than folded bias tape. That post also has notes on size and changes to the length.
  • Something I didn’t mention in my first post, the pattern does not have a separate under collar. To allow for ‘turn of the cloth’ and avoid rumpling in the under collar, I slid the under collar forward (a scant 1/4″ at the center) to shorten the underside. As in the pics below, this easy step ensures a nice contour. The the back of the collar is nice and flat, and doesn’t stick out.
  • On this version, I used the side seam pockets, but moved them down. They’re sewn in Kona cotton and are stitched to the fronts to avoid flapping 🙂 Great, roomy pockets!

This is so much fun to sew, I wish I needed more jackets! But I did promise one to my daughter, so that’s good.

Here’s what I had for Christmas dinner – I love love love pimento cheese sandwiches! Wish I had leftovers…

Before I go, thank you so very much for all the lovely compliments on my last post. For now, Coco

Fibre Mood Rya Jacket

Not for the faint-hearted. This seemingly straight-forward jacket/coat has a few challenges.

I love the idea of an over-sized shirt as a jacket – the current jargon is a ‘shacket’. And this is a great place to start. It has sloping shoulders to dropped sleeves, a statement-worthy collar, and big chest pockets. Lots of appeal!

So when I found it, I was all in, what a fun look for a challenging, almost dreary, season!

Fabric: JoAnn beastly blizzard fleece

Cute, right!

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Small, as it is very over-sized. I haven’t mentioned my measurements for a while, so 5″ 7 1/2″, 34″ bust, 39″ hip.
  • And I removed a whopping total of 7 1/2″ in the length, 2 1/2″ in the torso and another 5″ in the shirt tail hem area.
  • My goal was a jacket just above my knees, so I took a lot out of the shirt tail to balance the shorter length.

The nitty gritty:

  • The basic drafting is fine, i.e., pieces fit together and the silhouette delivered as promised
  • The instructions are marginal and the fitting requirements are high. Caution, take your time.
  • The finishing approaches are just weird. Why use bulky folded bias binding on the neckline when a nice facing would work so well. And afford a pretty look to the inside when the jacket flips open…

I drafted these facings at 3 1/4″ wide unfinished.

  • And again with the folded binding, this time on the hemline, what a bunch of bulk. I drafted a facing for the hemlines, cut at 1 1/2″ unfinished. It sewed down beautifully and gives just the right amount of weight to the hem.
  • I almost forgot – the instructions call for another folded bias binding on the top of the chest pocket. What! Just cut your pocket 2″ longer and do a self-facing finish.
  • Cautions: the sleeve is very short, add about 3″ and do your fitting with the cuff later.
  • And the pockets are at kangaroo sweatshirt length down the side seam. I ditched them, but of course one could just move them down to useful placement.

I like it! given my changes and how I will wear it here in a Florida winter. I particularly appreciate that this project has kept me very very busy for a week and has exercised both my sewing ability and my patience.

I am seldom deterred, and I am going straight into my second version in a Robert Kaufman Mammoth plaid flannel.

The fabric has arrived, it has been laundered, and I’m ready – Ciao! Coco