Helens Closet York Pinafore

I am really back to sewing! I bought Helen’s pinafore pattern way back in the spring, just waiting to wear in cooler weather. Today, with a short sleeve tee, but I have every intention of styling it with a black long-sleeve tee and black leggings. Maybe boots!

There is something about this pattern, it just says fun and wear me.

Sewing notes – well, a bunch:

  • I sewed View A, the deep neckline, in size 8. The pattern has generous ease, and I did not want a loosey-goosey look. Size 8 is perfect for me (5’7″, 33″ bust, 31″ waist, 34″ hips, 128 lbs).
  • Basic Changes: the pattern has two lengthen/shorten lines in the bodice. I raised each one by 1/2″. I did not want the neckline cutting across my bust apex, or the waistline hanging below my waist.
  • More: I added a button placket to the front and drafted neckline/pocket facings. My intention was to stabilize the garment, so it would not be loose and unstructured. I think these adjustments work really well.
  • The button placket is simple. I added 2″ to the CF and used it to create the placket and self-facing. The plackets have Pellon SF101 woven fusible interfacing to give them weight and structure. I sewed the buttonholes, but I did not open them. The dress just pulls over the head, so I sewed the buttons through both plackets.
  • And yes, I pattern-matched the fabric. Wiggling eyes… This is Robert Kaufman Peacock Balboa linen (55% linen/45% cotton), 43″ wide, from Fabric.com. I am in love with the Balboa line. I cut the pattern on the fold, 2.5 yards.

Just pics:

Ciao! coco

Holiday ramble

Happy holidays!

Busy much? I love this time of year, so much to do, family, services, and general good will. Even grocery shopping is more enjoyable 🙂

After my marathon costume making for the Christmas pageant, I’m slowly getting back in the mood to so some sewing and posting (yes, Christmas gifts included stash-making dollars from my dear children). Meanwhile, random pics from the last couple weeks…

From the Christmas Pageant – the children were adorable and so excited. Thirty children took part, including a choir of little angels. Beautiful.
A wonky gift to Preston (everyone loved it)! I ordered the ants about a week before Christmas, and they arrived on Christmas Eve, just in time. I searched online everywhere for this ant farm, and I found it at Barnes and Noble.

My tree service guys just arrived, after a full week of rain delays. They are removing all the ancient shrubs from the front of the house, and they’re giving the tangerine tree the haircut of its lifetime. Trimming, wind-proofing, and balancing. The tree is beautiful and very old. I don’t want to lose it to a hurricane.

Yesterday was an online marathon, as I took full advantage of holiday discounts on 4 Indie patterns that have been calling my name.

Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse
Style Arc Cameron dress
Style Arch Armidale dress
Helen’s Closet York Pinafore

I’ve even ordered fabric, and the first delivery is tomorrow. Now I’m excited!!

Hoping everyone is finding joy and peace in this beautiful time of year,

Coco

Nautical Blackwood Cardigan

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Such a great print! And perfect for a long Blackwood Cardigan.

back

After three weeks of workmen in the house, finally they’re done. I slept for 11 hours last night, with not a thing on my mind.

side

This super soft poly/lycra French terry is from Fabric Mart (and just sold out, they’re having a huge sale on knits). This is my second garment in poly/lycra French terry, and I am so impressed with it. Much nicer than cotton or rayon terry.

Just a few sewing notes:

  • I’ve made this wonderful cardigan about 8 times, both short and long. Yes, I love it. Thank you again, Helen!
  • I sew the Size Large (and I’m pretty small, it’s close-fitting).
  • As with my navy fleece version (here), I made a larger pocket and extended it onto the band and across the side seam.

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Top: True Bias Nikko in modal stretch jersey, Cali Fabrics

I just took a walk in the garden, it’s such a lovely day. It’s spring and everything is blooming.

My husky cherry tomato is suddenly over 6″ tall and full of bloom and babies.

tomato

The orange jasmine trees (murraya paniculata) have been covered with flowers and even have some fruit. I had them trimmed about 6 weeks ago – they love a haircut. They’re not citrus, but, as with a citrus tree, trimming them stimulates flowering. And although they’re often mistaken for the mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius) that grows so rampantly in Hawaii, they’re not even cousins. I think the association arises from the orange-blossom fragrance that they share.

mock orange

And Ms. Guava is loaded with buds and starting to bloom.

guava

I hope everyone is enjoying a nice weekend. Ciao! Coco

Blackwood and Ogden…

front 1

Small post…I made a couple favorites with fun variations. The cardigan is the Blackwood from Helen’s Closet, and the cami is my button front version of the True Bias Ogden Cami.

Fabrics: Cardigan, Pastel Rose Tan Poly/Rayon/Lycra Distressed French Terryt, and the Cami, Ashen Gray/White 100% Cotton Tweed Shirting by Halston. Both are from Fabric Mart.

Mostly pics, but earlier posts with details are here and here.

back

side

 

I used clear buttons on the cami, something less than 1/2″, from La Mode. The ‘weight’ really suits this shirting. I also put them only 2″ apart, 8 in all.

buttons

Recent sewing aspiration, I’m making a couple ‘Tom Selleck’ shirts for my son, as a prelude to a dress shirt. He wears Robert Graham shirts and asked if I can do something similar. What a compliment. Bye for now – Coco

 

Short Blackwood and pinwale pants…

front

Oh, I love this season! Holiday cheer and chilly weather…perfect for a couple favorites that have kept me busy and happy in the loft.

First off, my first short Blackwood Cardigan (Helen’s Closet). I’ve sewn many in the longer length, last one is here.

bwood emile

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed my usual size large (bust measurement is only 33″) and again added 1″ to the length.
  • This fabric is a super soft midweight rayon French terry knit from Cali Fabrics. They have such a nice selection of this fabric…worth a look.
  • Truth time: it has so much horizontal stretch that I used my walking foot (not something I do often).

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Next up, I paired the cardigan with pinwale corduroy Vogue 8584 loose pants.

V8584 lines

I’ve been sewing this pattern for years, all the variations. Love it. I think it’s out of print, but I’ve seen it on Etsy and eBay.

back

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 12, with no changes.
  • This beautiful stretch pinwale corduroy is from JoAnn (97% Cotton, 3% Spandex). My store had only two selections, but there are many more colors and prints available online. The little bit of stretch is great.
  • Hard to see, but there, I used the cute curved pockets sewn across the hip (goony pic follows).

show pkts

  • Prepping the pockets took almost as much time as sewing the pants. But I really enjoy details. Not in the mood? just square the bottom corners.

pkt 1-side

  • Finishes – the hem and waistband casing:

band-down

I have another pair in the rust corduroy I used for my Utu skirt, also from JoAnn. BTW, a couple washings really soften this pinwale.

Up next, I ordered 3 beautiful shirting fabrics, so there are more Named Clothing Saraste shirts in my future!

Bye for now – Coco

Blackwood Cardigan in Navy Fleece

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Time for some Blackwood Cardigan love (pattern here, thank you Helen!).

I’ve made this wonderful pattern in jersey, hacci knit, and, now, polar fleece. Oh boy, it’s so pretty. The pattern:

part 1-side

Mine is the longer version in navy polar fleece from Fabric.com.

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Large, as with all my versions. Previous adjustments are detailed in first first version (here).
  • Something different: I modified the pockets to be a little wider, with a cut-on facing, and placed them about 2″ above the hem,and, yes, across the bottom band. This is much lower than the pattern has them. But I love how this looks (as in the pic above).
  • Fleece is usually pretty stable, not stretchy, and this one worked for me. No interfacing needed.

I love to sew fleece, here are some views of finishing details:

finishing 1

finishing 3

finishing 4

And more happiness.

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b1

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Parting shot: I think I need a new pair of readers for the loft. Wonder Woman has broken her sewing glasses in TWO places…

cuadros-ladies-dc-comics-mujer-maravilla-arte-pop-25x25cm-D_NQ_NP_691922-MLA26608873453_012018-F

glasses

Ciao! Coco

Blackwood Cardigan in Ponte Knit

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More love for the Blackwood Cardigan pattern from Helen’s Closet.

part 1-side

Feeling adventurous, I used a very stretchy (60%/40%) rayon/nylon/lycra ponte from Fabric Mart (my first version was in hacci knit, here).

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I actually began construction with the neckline band, because I knew it would be the biggest challenge. I did not want to end up with a wavy, stretched out band! So – my approach:

  • I keep my ironing board at table height, so it can double as a work surface. The foam pad makes a great pin cushion as well!

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  • I measured the band and did all my work with a measuring tape above it to ensure I wasn’t stretching the fabric. Or possibly shrinking it when I applied the fusible interfacing.

b1

  • After I folded the band and gave it a press, I did some fancy basting to prevent shifting when it was sewn. It took a while, but was worth the effort.

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  • I also made a 12″ long replica for testing my stitches, tension, and so on.

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A couple more sewing notes:

  • I staystitched the neckline edges of the garment to stabilize them while I was handling the fabric. On the back neckline, I stitched from the center back to the shoulder. On the front pieces, I stitched from the bottom edge to the shoulder.

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  • To avoid stretching my seams, I sewed them first on the sewing machine, and simply finished the edges on the serger.

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Whew! but it all worked 🙂

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s2

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l1

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Next up, of course I’m going to sew this in a cotton/lycra jersey!

Bye for now, Coco