Blackwood Cardigan in Ponte Knit

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More love for the Blackwood Cardigan pattern from Helen’s Closet.

part 1-side

Feeling adventurous, I used a very stretchy (60%/40%) rayon/nylon/lycra ponte from Fabric Mart (my first version was in hacci knit, here).

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I actually began construction with the neckline band, because I knew it would be the biggest challenge. I did not want to end up with a wavy, stretched out band! So – my approach:

  • I keep my ironing board at table height, so it can double as a work surface. The foam pad makes a great pin cushion as well!

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  • I measured the band and did all my work with a measuring tape above it to ensure I wasn’t stretching the fabric. Or possibly shrinking it when I applied the fusible interfacing.

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  • After I folded the band and gave it a press, I did some fancy basting to prevent shifting when it was sewn. It took a while, but was worth the effort.

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  • I also made a 12″ long replica for testing my stitches, tension, and so on.

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A couple more sewing notes:

  • I staystitched the neckline edges of the garment to stabilize them while I was handling the fabric. On the back neckline, I stitched from the center back to the shoulder. On the front pieces, I stitched from the bottom edge to the shoulder.

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  • To avoid stretching my seams, I sewed them first on the sewing machine, and simply finished the edges on the serger.

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Whew! but it all worked 🙂

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Next up, of course I’m going to sew this in a cotton/lycra jersey!

Bye for now, Coco

Blackwood Cardigan fan club…

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It’s official – I’m a fan. From Helen’s Closet, the lovely Blackwood Cardigan!

part 1-side

Yes, another cardigan. But they’re such fun to sew and so easy to wear. I think I’m slow on my game, because this cardigan has been around for some time.

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I actually purchased it and 2 pieces of hacci knit a couple months ago. Then I chickened out on using the hacci, mostly because I read so many comments about ‘sweater knits that cling to themselves’. Absolutely, hacci knit, in all its polyester glory, will do that. But this pattern is not voluminous, so this weekend I went with my first inclination, and I love the result.

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Sewing notes:

  • Fabric: this is a blue/black/brown/cream abstract hacci knit from Fabric Mart. It’s very stretchy – 80%/40%.
  • Size: After viewing about a hundred versions online, and reading the sizing information and tutorials provided by Helen’s Closet, I settled on size Large. Measurement of the taped pattern confirmed my choice: the Large is 33″ at the bustline. With a 4″ gap between the front edges (it’s not meant to be closed), it’s perfect for me. The Large is about 40″ at the hip, just enough to prevent a skimpy silhouette. It also fits me through the shoulders and arms. BTW, my measurements put me in the Medium, but it would have been too small for me.
  • I also added 1″ to the length – I’m 5’7″ and the size model is 5’6″. I always appreciate that little piece of information.
  • The band: I planned to interface the front band, so I added 2″ to the length on each side. Fusible interfacing will always ‘freeze’ a knit and pull it up a bit. Better safe than sorry, and I used every bit of the length. Interfaced, folded, basted and topstitched:

band 1-down

band 3

  • The sleeve: my only change was to the cuff. The sleeve pattern is intentionally long and slouchy, with a very wide cuff. I simply finished my cuff at about 1 5/8″ wide.

cuff

  • No pockets! the fabric is way too stretchy for them.

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And the inside view…

emile 1

emile 2

While browsing, I found an intriguing adaptation by SheSewsALot – she made it a bit oversized, with a button front and maxi length. I’ve already printed the layered XL and XXL for a similar version in the fall, perhaps in sweatshirt or French terry knit.

Other projects – My Luna Lapin wool felt arrived from The Felt Pod. It’s beautiful fabric, but my wool allergy bounded to the front almost immediately. Sigh. However, I have a backup plan, and I’ll be working on my Lapin today.

Bye for now – Coco