Itch to Stitch Causeway bomber jacket pt.1

When Itch to Stitch announced their Causeway bomber jacket, I jumped on it. It has everything I really want in a bomber, primarily set-in sleeves. My experience with the Style Art Bobbi bomber taught me that raglan sleeves just don’t work for me, my shoulders are broad, the upper bodice was too narrow.

Check out the front detail! There are pockets hidden inside the front bodice seams. How neat is that 🙂

I printed and modified the size 10 with an A cup. I think (hope) the bodice will fit with the ease I like.

Having 5 yards of coffee Kona cotton for the lining, I went for it. Working with Kona had a big benefit – I was able to determine the fabric requirement for a 44″ wide fabric. The instructions only provide the requirement for a 58″ wide fabric. So – two yards.

I’m going to sew this Kona version for fit. I added 1″ to the length of bodice/back/sleeve/pocket, for more more fitting room. And I have enough to change-up the size if needed. Meanwhile, I’ve ordered fabric for the shell and ribbing (I already have a zipper). This is Alexander Henry A Ghastlie Craft plus rib kit in olive, both from Fabric.com

I admit, I’m so into fabrics and styles that are a bit outré – blame it on Covid! I really am not interested in staid/predictable styles or prints. 🙂

Having said that, it’s the weekend. Perhaps not as we all spent it before, but I do hope you are well and loved. For now, Coco

Paro Cardigan in distressed French terry

I enjoyed my tattoo Itch to Stitch Paro Cardigan so much during my Christmas visit with my son in Orlando – time to make another one.

Just to shake things up a bit, I used a ‘distressed’ poly/rayon/lycra French terry from Fabric Mart. What an adventure, this is truly a funky fabric.

Distressed – the loop side is actually the front side, and it has patches of deconstructed threads, similar to distressed jeans.

This made for some interesting sewing challenges 🙂

• Before I did any sewing, I staystiched the cut threads on the edges of the pattern pieces. Using a ‘helper’ (my double hole threader) really helped.

 

• I had to be gentle with the fabric to avoid catching the threads unintentionally. And I used a lot of basting since pins slipped out so easily.

• I decided to face the waistband with a lightweight woven fabric. Here’s a view before the facing – notice the drooping. It really bugged me.

 

• After adding the facing – much better, and I like the added weight:

 

More pics:

Update on my techno-gadgets: I took these photos with my new iPhone, first time! I haven’t conquered the subtleties of the camera, but I love the quality of the pics. It was also the first time I used my Arkon tripod phone adapter. This thing is really neat and so easy to use!!

My dear boy turned 50 on Friday. Proud mom here…

Bye for now – Coco

 

Paro Cardigan by Itch to Stitch

This cardigan is amazing!

What a lovely design. When I came across it on Pinterest, I was sure I would sew it.

I started with a muslin (I’m still enjoying this print from Fabric Mart).

And I discovered a little wonkiness going on in the waistband – a little pulling and sagging. It’s not at all noticeable in a print, but would be in a solid.

This was an easy fix to include in future versions. I took the curve out of the front waistband and straightened the bottom of the back bodice (it’s actually a little swoopy from center back to the sides, once the pleat is sewn).

I was so happy with this cardigan that I couldn’t wait to make another one in a fabric I’ve been saving for something special. Check out this tattoo print from Cali Fabrics (sorry, I also bought up the remaining yardage a couple days ago. Picture a long robe).

Sewing notes:

• Fabrics: The pattern site has a blog post with examples from a myriad of testers, in all sizes and many different fabrics. It is so helpful! Both my fabrics are cotton/lycra and have 25% horizontal/20% vertical stretch.
• Sizing: I followed the pattern information and sewed size 8. Just in case I use a stable fabric in the future, I printed the pattern with sizes 8 and 10 (gotta’ love layered PDFs).
• The pleats on the bodice: I followed the suggestion for small-busted women and topstitched the front bodice pleats for 3″. They’re so pretty.

• BTW, notches and marks are super important for all those pleats. On a dark fabric I use my trusty white marking pen. It steams/wipes right off, and it doesn’t cause any discoloration. Even better, because it’s a roller pen, it doesn’t disappear from a knit the way chalk does. I get mine from JoAnn, it’s usually in the quilters’ markers and notions aisle.

• The front band: The pattern for the band is 6″ wide and finishes at about 2.5″ wide. IMO, it’s a heavy element in the design, perhaps just a little too wide. Mine is 4.5″ wide and finishes at about just under 2″ wide.
• I also added 4″ to length of my band, so I could attach it all the way to the bottom of the garment and incorporate it in the hem. This is much easier than the approach in the instructions and makes a nice clean finish:-)

• Last note on the band, I interfaced mine with tricot knit fusible. Knit bands want to stretch out, get wavy, and generally misbehave (check out the examples online to see what I mean). Interfacing helps with that.

I’m smitten – this is a unique, fun, and feminine design!

Ciao – Coco