This is an incredible video series from Atelier Saison on sewing a lined structured jacket.
I’m making my first Republique du Chiffon Manteau Gerard, which is typically lined. It’s been a while since I sewed a lined jacket, so I went looking on YouTube for a refresher course. Wow. This 6-part series from Atelier Saison is simply stunning. From laying out fabrics, cutting them, jacket assembly, and finishing, it’s all covered. And I find that watching someone do it is a lot more helpful than reading a tutorial. I love that ‘pause’ button…
The topic is a beautiful classic woman’s jacket/blazer.
This garment done in wool flannel with a very sheer fusible interfacing and ‘posh-like’ lining. The journey is fascinating. I learned so much! I’ve watched each session several times, checkpointing my own jacket construction and simply taking it all in. I was captivate by all the Technique, fabric manipulation, seam management, sequence of construction, and small steps that differentiate the end garment from something well-made to something beautifully made. Couture.
I would have been happy with the videos. But Atelier Saison takes it a step further and offers the pattern for free as a PDF download. This link includes info and links to each part of the series, as well as the download.
The videos have no audio dialogue, but are captioned in both Japanese and English. They are very easy to understand and navigate. Bonus – each video includes a list of topics covered, in English.
E.g., Part 2: “Adjust cutting, Stick stay tape, Sew the lining”
Stick stay tape on front bodice
Fold crease line on lapel
Stick stay tape on back bodice
Plain seam under collar and collar stand
Plain seam upper collar and collar stand
Seam opening upper collar and collar stand
Top-stitch (seam opening) upper collar and collar stand
Top-stitch (overlapped seam) under collar and collar stand
Plain seam upper and under collar
Cut seam allowance and Grading it
Seam opening the collar and turn it out
Plain seam front bodice and facing
Attach the collar to the lining bodice
Attach the collar to the main bodice
Cut & Slash the seam allowance of the edge of front and lapel, and collar
Staystitch the edge of front curve
Seam opening and overlapped seam the collar
Seam opening the edge of front lapel
Make the pattern of the part of curve
Press the edge of front curve
Turn the facing out and Press
Hand blind stitch the neckline
Hand blind stitch the lapel crease line
Hope you enjoy (and many thanks to Atelier Saison for a real gem). Coco
Yes, I make a lot of muslins, but I don’t always write about them. Having a 1 3/4 yard ponte remnant, I decided to do a little pattern play with S2703.
It’s an ‘old’ pattern that I picked up to make a replacement for my worn-out RTW (either JJill or Coldwater Creek) jacket.
The pattern suggests a variety of woven fabrics, so of course I want to make it in a knit 🙂
I sewed the size 10, with 4″ added to the length. The original pattern is very short!
Given all the other curve and cutesy details, I squared my front bottom edges.
The sleeves are bracelet length, not my favorite, so I added 4″ to them as well.
Not wanting the jacket to be too fitted in the torso, I added 5/8″ to the front and back side seams at the waistline, and re-drew the them accordingly.
Weird thing: the pattern has a lined upper and lower front and a full yoke-sized lining at the upper back. This would be much too much fabric in ponte. So I drafted 3″ wide facing for the back neckline and front edges.
The collar on this jacket is wonderful!! It’s cut in one piece, no worry or fuss with the front curves. To keep it soft and flexible, I did not interface it.
What didn’t work – the front waist band. I should have lined it in a woven fabric to prevent stretching.
I won’t keep this muslin, but I definitely have plans for the pattern – I would love this in a very lightweight white French terry for summer.
Parting shot: This orchid has been growing in my guava tree since I bought it as a little dried out thingie in a net bag, eight years ago. It’s blooming for the first time! and I think it might be a cattleya.
A little play time – I know I get enthusiastic about things I love, but I adore this jacket!
It happened that I had two pieces of marigold cotton sweatshirt fleece from two different vendors. They are identical, which means I probably have a pair of PJ bottoms in my future, using the remnants.
I’ve made this pattern before in red fleece (here), and it’s a favorite.
My original inspiration was a pic taken by Shams on her trip with the Tilton sisters to Paris. Stunning. I haven’t made it in a long version, but really really like to do it 🙂
Back to my jacket! Great sleek vibe, I love wearing it with the collar turned up.
Sewed View A, which has an attached collar, and I used the changes I made on my first version.
Added 2″ to the length.
Dropped the front curved edge about 1 3/4″ and trued it back into the curve of the hem.
Added 1 1/2″ to the sleeve length.
Made curved bottom pockets. This pic shows the prepped pocket – seam allowances clipped at the curve, basted, and ready to be sewn on the jacket.
Topstitching detail on the front. Sweatshirt fleece just invites a bit of art.
A tip – clip out the seam allowance at the side hem before turning it. I like to reduce seam bulk at every opportunity!
And one more tip. I laundered the fabric twice, and I still had some fleece pills on the inside of the fabric. Nothing a quick de-fuzz couldn’t fix once I was finished sewing:-)
Truth time – this is by far my favorite of my two marigold jackets. I’m thinking navy fleece, perhaps that long version…
It’s officially fall in the loft, time for a new jacket and a new pattern!
Butterick 6107 is lovely and interesting to sew. I originally bought it with the standup collar in mind, but I was put off by the way the collar looks when it’s open. No problem – I love shawl collar jackets and coats!
My choices: size Small, View A, the length of View C, and the pockets from View B.
My fabric is Marigold 100% cotton sweatshirt fleece from Fabric Mart. It has only mechanical stretch and is what I would characterize as mid-weight.
The collar is cut-on rather than attached. I know this scares some folks, but the pattern pieces fit perfectly, and the inside corners were easy to sew. Another nice feature: the upper collar is slightly wider than the under collar to allow for the turn of the cloth. A lot of patterns don’t bother to do this.
My buttons are 7/8″ faux tortoise shell, with sew-on snaps for the actual closure. I did lots of looking and found beautiful 15mm bronze snaps by Cotowin on Amazon. BTW, Amazon is a great place to look for studs and snaps, the variety is amazing.
The patterns calls for lined pockets, but given the weight of my fabric, I drafted mine with an interfaced cut-on facing.
Here comes more fun – the back! It’s plain on the pattern, but I split it into 2 pieces just below the armscye. I think the topstitching on the collar, the hem, and this new seam add a lot of interest to the back view.
Oh, this is such a nice jacket, and I love wearing it.
We had a nice Halloween night here in my little community, complete with a pizza party at the clubhouse to get some food into the kids’ tummies ahead of all that candy. Most of my neighbors have left their decorations in place, I think everyone is simply enjoying the season.
Parting shot: I had to do it, Starbucks kicked off it holiday flavors today with free reusable cups 🙂 Did anyone else splurge on a peppermint mocha latte?