Lekala 4162 jacket – street style

That magic moment – inspiration, pattern, and fabric…

Cruising Pinterest one day, I happened on this pic, and I knew I wanted to go for it. What a terrific look for Florida, jeans, and a little attitude.

My pattern search led me to Lekala 4162 ( I love Lekala patterns),

And my fabric search led me to Kaufman Balboa linen (design by Erin dollar) at Fabric.com.

Ready, set, go!

About Lekala patterns – You can enter your own measurements (recommended) or choose from a standard size range. They are very inexpensive (about $3.49 for this one) and for $.50 more, they include a 3/8″ seam allowance! This jacket fits me perfectly, even the sleeve length, with no changes at all.

About the fabric – Kaufman Essex linens, the substrate for the Balboa line, are my favorites for pants, shorts, jackets, Yari jumpsuits, and Alder shirtdresses. My choice for this jacket is a white print on white Essex, which had a big influence on how I constructed the jacket.

While the pattern has instructions and pieces for a lining, I did not want facing or lining ‘show-through’. I was after a consistent appearance. So I cut out two complete sets of the pattern, the outside in linen, the inside in linen with poly/cotton broadcloth sleeves (easy on/off entry to the sleeve).

And I used the front facing pattern piece to cut out woven sew-in interfacing (Pellon SF785), attached to the lining.

Once both components were constructed, I just sewed them together, all but cuffs, and turned them through a sleeve.

I’m in love with this jacket! It’s totally wash and wear, and it adds a little juice to my wardrobe 🙂

Parting note: I want to thank all of you, my friends, for the caring and supportive messages you’ve left me. You make me float, and I’ll remember your words every day. From the heart, Coco

Republique du Chiffon – le Manteau Gerard

g5

One of those perfect projects.

I purchased this jacket pattern from Republique du Chiffon 5 years ago, and somehow it got lost in my stash. I love the 80’s vibe of the jacket, which is why I picked it up in the first place. Check it out – there are some beautiful versions to view online.

The line art below is from the currently available version. Mine, the original PDF, has applied pockets, which I really like on this casual semi-grunge style.

line art

g11

I used a cotton/tencel/lycra light-weight denim from Fabric Mart. The fabric has enough weight that I was able to skip the lining. It’s warm enough here in south Florida without any additional layers inside.

g3
Top: Named Saraste shirt

g6

g10

Sewing notes:

  • I drafted the size Small, and it’s a beautiful fit on my frame. However… I don’t see the PDF on the pattern site now, only a printed/envelope version. I noticed sizing changes that would definitely impact my purchase decision – the small is too small, the medium is too large. Sorry to be a bummer, but I might not go for it at 17 euros plus shipping from France.

Screen Shot 2019-04-27 at 4.38.05 PM-down

  • I removed the ‘cocoon’ curve from the side seams, the silhouette is just not my thing.
  • The facings and hem bands are generous and perfect for finishing the jacket without lining.

inside
Inside view

  • I used 3/4″ buttons and buttonholes with rounded ends. Honestly, I didn’t even open the buttonholes because I won’t wear this buttoned. But I like the additional visual detail.

g buttonholes

  • Small tip on making a perfect front curve on the bottom front edge…clip, check, clip, until the curve is even and flat with no lumps when it’s turned.

g curve

So, here’s lucky. Fabric Mart sent me an additional 8″ in length – I got the end of the bolt. I had just enough to make the matching capris I’m wearing in these pics. Now I have a casual suit as well 🙂

g1
Pants: Vogue 8584 loose leg pants, View A

g2

I’m not sure what I’ll sew next. Being the good Fabric Mart shopper that I am, I have 5 fabrics coming my way next week. Perhaps I’ll do a pair of True Bias Hudson pants, since I have a beautiful black matte jersey tempting me from my stash. I wear my leggings – Love Notions Sabrina Slims, Hudsons, and Pattern Emporium Harem pants – so much that I just keep on making them 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Goldmine – Atelier Saison blazer videos

11

This is an incredible video series from Atelier Saison on sewing a lined structured jacket.

I’m making my first Republique du Chiffon Manteau Gerard, which is typically lined. It’s been a while since I sewed a lined jacket, so I went looking on YouTube for a refresher course. Wow. This 6-part series from Atelier Saison is simply stunning. From laying out fabrics, cutting them, jacket assembly, and finishing, it’s all covered. And I find that watching someone do it is a lot more helpful than reading a tutorial. I love that ‘pause’ button…

The topic is a beautiful classic woman’s jacket/blazer.

33

This garment done in wool flannel with a very sheer fusible interfacing and ‘posh-like’ lining. The journey is fascinating. I learned so much! I’ve watched each session several times, checkpointing my own jacket construction and simply taking it all in. I was captivate by all the Technique, fabric manipulation, seam management, sequence of construction, and small steps that differentiate the end garment from something well-made to something beautifully made. Couture.

I would have been happy with the videos. But Atelier Saison takes it a step further and offers the pattern for free as a PDF download. This link includes info and links to each part of the series, as well as the download.

22

The videos have no audio dialogue, but are captioned in both Japanese and English. They are very easy to understand and navigate. Bonus – each video includes a list of topics covered, in English.

E.g., Part 2: “Adjust cutting, Stick stay tape, Sew the lining”

  • Stick stay tape on front bodice
44
  • Fold crease line on lapel
  • Stick stay tape on back bodice
  • Plain seam under collar and collar stand
  • Plain seam upper collar and collar stand
  • Seam opening upper collar and collar stand
  • Top-stitch (seam opening) upper collar and collar stand
  • Top-stitch (overlapped seam) under collar and collar stand
  • Plain seam upper and under collar
  • Cut seam allowance and Grading it
  • Seam opening the collar and turn it out
  • Plain seam front bodice and facing
  • Attach the collar to the lining bodice
  • Attach the collar to the main bodice
  • Cut & Slash the seam allowance of the edge of front and lapel, and collar
  • Staystitch the edge of front curve
  • Seam opening and overlapped seam the collar
  • Seam opening the edge of front lapel
  • Make the pattern of the part of curve
  • Press the edge of front curve
  • Turn the facing out and Press
  • Hand blind stitch the neckline
  • Hand blind stitch the lapel crease line

Hope you enjoy (and many thanks to Atelier Saison for a real gem). Coco

Maxi sweatshirt hoodie!

f2

At last, it’s cool enough to actually wear this hoodie that I made in the spring! It’s 60 degrees, and I’m off to JoAnn with a fistful of coupons.

This adorable polka dot cotton/poly sweatshirt fabric showed up on FabricMart last March, and I snatched it up. I made the jacket in May, and I’ve resisted the temptation to post it until now.

My inspiration was something I found on Pinterest – apology, I didn’t keep the shop name.

inspiration

I sewed a couple muslins with pieces of various patterns, and I settled on a combo of the Vogue 9275 jacket and the hood from McCall 7634.

V9275-down
Vogue 9275

line art 1
McCall 7634

s2

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed size Medium in the jacket.
  • The hood from M7634 size 12 fits perfectly.

b1

  • While the Vogue jacket is fairly long, I added 2” to length.
  • I drafted front and back neckline facings so the inside of fabric would not show when I don’t zip it (picky).
  • And I drafted a cute pocket, 9″h x 8″w, as I’m not a fan of kangaroo pockets.
  • My zipper is a #5 plastic jacket zipper from Wawak .

zipper in

  • Also from Wawak, a zipper pull!

zipper

  • Not sure of the length I needed, I ordered a 36″ zipper and shortened it to fit. These are my jewelry tools, perfect for removing zipper teeth!

zipper 2

  • At the bottom, I added a 2″ wide band that pretty much echoes the cuff. The width of the band is only slightly less than the width of the hem, to give it the sweatshirt vibe.

s1

So so cute! I loved wearing it today. f1

Bye for now! Coco

Simplicity 2703 jacket muslin in ponte

f2

Yes, I make a lot of muslins, but I don’t always write about them. Having a 1 3/4 yard ponte remnant, I decided to do a little pattern play with S2703.

line art

It’s an ‘old’ pattern that I picked up to make a replacement for my worn-out RTW (either JJill or Coldwater Creek) jacket.

The pattern suggests a variety of woven fabrics, so of course I want to make it in a knit 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 10, with 4″ added to the length. The original pattern is very short!

b1

  • Given all the other curve and cutesy details, I squared my front bottom edges.

f1

  • The sleeves are bracelet length, not my favorite, so I added 4″ to them as well.

cuff finish

  • Not wanting the jacket to be too fitted in the torso, I added 5/8″ to the front and back side seams at the waistline, and re-drew the them accordingly.
  • Weird thing: the pattern has a lined upper and lower front and a full yoke-sized lining at the upper back. This would be much too much fabric in ponte. So I drafted 3″ wide facing for the back neckline and front edges.

back facing

  • The collar on this jacket is wonderful!! It’s cut in one piece, no worry or fuss with the front curves. To keep it soft and flexible, I did not interface it.

front facing

  • What didn’t work – the front waist band. I should have lined it in a woven fabric to prevent stretching.

front band

I won’t keep this muslin, but I definitely have plans for the pattern – I would love this in a very lightweight white French terry for summer.

Parting shot: This orchid has been growing in my guava tree since I bought it as a little dried out thingie in a net bag, eight years ago. It’s blooming for the first time! and I think it might be a cattleya.

IMG_0076

Ciao! Coco