Beautiful glorious day and a Gerard Manteau

What a nice day – cool, well, for Floridians, cold 🙂 My new Gerard Manteau is perfect.

This cute and casual jacket from Republique du Chiffon is a gem. It has a semi-grunge aspect – loose and long.

I’m in the back yard, in front of my newly trimmed tangerine tree. I was concerned that it was so full and thick, a hurricane could push it over in a flash. Not now! And the birds love the tree.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size small – a medium would have swallowed me, but would be perfect for fleece or fur.
  • I have the PDF pattern, and the instructions and illustrations (hand-drawn and very small) are minimal. Additionally, only the French instructions are really useable – the English translation provided is just weird. If you’ve made a jacket, you will be fine. This is a very basic pattern.
  • A caution: the pattern does not discriminate sizes by line style – they are all the same solid black line, so don’t drink wine while cutting…
  • The fabric: Heathered Sapphire 100% Cotton Corduroy 66W from Fabric Mart, 7-wale.
  • It did get some special prep work. I serged all the pattern pieces before I started sewing, to prevent bias stretch and loss of fabric on the edges.

Then I vacuumed my entire house!! and cleaned my serger.

  • Originally I used twill tape to define the roll of the lapel. But I found that it distorted the lapel because the wale opened and rolled around. So I took it out.
  • For the same reason, the distortion of sewing across this wide wale, I squared the bottom of the pockets (I love that they are lined, nice touch).

Tree hugger 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Gerard Manteau in corduroy – prep!

Time for a new Republique du Chiffon Gerard Manteau. I’m in love with this casual jacket.

I found a beautiful 7-wale heathered saffire corduroy at Fabric Mart late last year. And I knew it’s destiny.

The prep, driven by my fabric, has taken hours and hours 🙂

Of course I laundered the fabric, and I was rewarded with piles and piles of lint in the dryer. I tumbled it twice to get the last bits off the yardage, and then I cleaned my dryer!

Prep – once I start sewing, I want to work with nice pattern pieces without lint or unexpected bias distortion. So I cut and serged every single piece of my pattern.

As I was cutting, I marked notches with a chalk pencil, but after I serged the edges, I marked them with a small pin. Chalk disappears from corduroy in a flash…

I’m anxious to start, but my interfacing, Pellon SF785 sew-in, is in the laundry. Yes, non-fusible interfacing should be washed and dried… I prefer sew-in interfacing on anything with a wale or heavy texture, as I don’t want to crush the fabric pressing a fusible.

So, next up, my Gerard Manteau! Bye for now, Coco

Butterick 5533 leopard spot fleece jacket

Our temperature dropped into the 50’s Saturday night, which, in Florida, means fleece jacket gratification!

I made this leopard version of B5533 last spring, and I’ve waited until now to wear it 🙂 It’s simply one of my favorite jacket patterns (marigold fleece version here).

Photographs of the details are difficult in this print, but I’ll give it a try.

  • The jacket is a combination of view A (front and collar) and View B (back and pockets).
  • I drafted a front yoke to add topstitching interest and to break up the visual length of the fabric. This is fleece – no way will I try buttonholes in fleece. For closure, I used #4 snaps with buttons on the outside right front.
  • My collar points are rounded, which IMHO adds a softer and more elegant aspect around the face.
  • The view B back is so pretty, I love the deeply curved inset.
Yoke lining in calico

I also made some small fitting adjustments, described in my marigold post.

Love it! Today I’m waiting for house painters to arrive, the next big step for the house. I just had a call from Lowes to advise me that my refrigerator, promised for tomorrow, is delayed until the end of November (mine has a leaky drip pan). That’s OK, I’m so happy here in my new pad.

Ciao! Coco

Simplicity 8742 Lined jacket

Now that I’m getting settled in to my new home, here’s a jacket I made while I was renting an apartment and house hunting. I wore it to church this morning, and I got so many compliments! Rather timely, because my church is looking for someone to repair/remake costumes for the Christmas pageant. Perfect, because I’ve been looking for a way to contribute to my new church home.

Anyway, I do really like this pattern. It has so much potential! And I really enjoy short jackets over pants and skirts.

I settled on the view D with the mandarin collar, and I sewed it in 2 fabrics from JoAnn. The outside is a metallic Asian print, and the inside is a linen/cotton blend. Well, I cannot find either one of them on the JoAnn site 🙂

Inside out:

I did make a few changes, using the pattern pieces. I used the interfacing piece to make my front facing in the main fabric, and I redrafted the front lining for this change.

Just a couple sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size small (5’8″, 34″ bust).
  • I also added 2″ to the sleeves, they are a bit short. On sleeves, I aim at 25″ from the shoulder seam, which always gives me enough length to fit/adjust as needed.
  • My front edges are rounded, using my makeup mirror as a guideline!

With so much supportive feedback, I’ll wear this again. Curious – do you ever hesitate to wear a newly made garment? I sure do 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Lekala 4162 jacket – street style

That magic moment – inspiration, pattern, and fabric…

Cruising Pinterest one day, I happened on this pic, and I knew I wanted to go for it. What a terrific look for Florida, jeans, and a little attitude.

My pattern search led me to Lekala 4162 ( I love Lekala patterns),

And my fabric search led me to Kaufman Balboa linen (design by Erin dollar) at Fabric.com.

Ready, set, go!

About Lekala patterns – You can enter your own measurements (recommended) or choose from a standard size range. They are very inexpensive (about $3.49 for this one) and for $.50 more, they include a 3/8″ seam allowance! This jacket fits me perfectly, even the sleeve length, with no changes at all.

About the fabric – Kaufman Essex linens, the substrate for the Balboa line, are my favorites for pants, shorts, jackets, Yari jumpsuits, and Alder shirtdresses. My choice for this jacket is a white print on white Essex, which had a big influence on how I constructed the jacket.

While the pattern has instructions and pieces for a lining, I did not want facing or lining ‘show-through’. I was after a consistent appearance. So I cut out two complete sets of the pattern, the outside in linen, the inside in linen with poly/cotton broadcloth sleeves (easy on/off entry to the sleeve).

And I used the front facing pattern piece to cut out woven sew-in interfacing (Pellon SF785), attached to the lining.

Once both components were constructed, I just sewed them together, all but cuffs, and turned them through a sleeve.

I’m in love with this jacket! It’s totally wash and wear, and it adds a little juice to my wardrobe 🙂

Parting note: I want to thank all of you, my friends, for the caring and supportive messages you’ve left me. You make me float, and I’ll remember your words every day. From the heart, Coco