My long hoodie muslin

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My current project, keeping me out of trouble…a muslin of a long hoodie. This has been fun!

Please excuse any blurry photos. My laptop is acting up, it’s old, on Windows 7 because it cannot handle Windows 10. In fact I’ve ordered a Mac Air 2 to replace it. OK. Yes, I’m excited and broke at the same time 🙂

So – I’m so intrigued by the long hoodies I see on Pinterest. Kind of up my alley. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I order M7634 for a starting point for drafting a long hoodie ( I’m only showing the line art for the long top here, but it has fantastic knit pants as well):

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And check it out!

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This is a very modified draft. M7634 is a top and/or dress, very slim through the torso and sleeves. So I drafted my tissue using the B6251 jacket pattern as the basis for my upper bodice, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. What was left? well, that wonderful hood and the hemline bands.

hood up

Honestly, I love messing with patterns. Although admittedly, not all of my mash-ups turn out as well as this one.

Originally, I thought I would add a button band (not wanting to put a zipper in a knit fabric):

my line art

And I did it, using a couple fleece blankets from the drug store, $6 investment. Confession time, I mistakenly cut the whole thing on the cross-grain, which left no stretch horizontally, and the entire thing was too tight. Oh well 🙂

This muslin is also done in fleece blankets from the store, but I changed the front edge. I simply added a cut-on facing to match the width of the fold on the hood. It gives really nice continuity to the flow from the hood down the front. If I were to use snaps or a zipper, I would cut the band separately to allow for interfacing (this version has none) and/or a seam to enclose the zipper tape.

Sewing notes:

  • I like the idea of the hem bands, but wanted mine to curve in just a little. So I simply took 3/8″ out of each band and stretched it to fit.
  • I didn’t add sleeve cuffs – my wrists are so sensitive (scleroderma has shrunken them from 7″ to 6″), so I went for a simple hemmed sleeve.
  • I’ve always been a little intimidated by that seam, hood to neckline, wondering how to finish it without raw edges. Following a nice tutorial on Craftsy, I finished mine with twill tape. Not purple tape, mine is black, what I had hanging around – but remember, this is a muslin. The twill tape is a nice and really easy technique.

twill

twill 2

  • As always I looked online for other versions of m7634. What I noticed most was that the shoulders and hood neckline were loosey-goosey. Stretched out, and just not something I would wear. I tamed the tiger by using tricot knit fusible in the shoulders, and, of course, that twill tape in the neckline/hood seam.

 

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Now I have a great pattern draft, makes me dangerous. I really want to make a long hoodie in sweatshirt fabric. Classic grey?

Ciao! Coco

New patterns – fun ahead

vogue 1New patterns. I always browse the seasonal collections to see if anyone has come up with something new and interesting.

Honestly, I have so many patterns already, which I mix and mash with abandon, that I don’t really buy a lot of new ones.

But recent releases from McCalls got my attention, because they remind me of a couple things I’ve been keeping in my inspiration folder.

First up, and admittedly very trendy this year, paper bag waist pants. The pattern, M7726:

line art pants

I’m leaning toward view D, the relaxed version, in a bottom weight fabric, and put together some nice colors:pants colors

macys linen pants

 

Linen is another possibility, particularly for our warm seasons (three of them!), but it does have a much different vibe. I like the pink, and I think kiwi green would be awesome.

Second pattern, M7634. Is this the 70’s girl coming out in me? Here’s the line art, but think long hoodie.line art hoodie

Check out all the options in this pattern. I was amazed when I saw it. I’m planning to work with the long top, might add a zipper, and I’m not sure which pocket I’ll use.

Colors!

hoodie colors

So far all I have is the patterns, but I’m keeping an eye on fabric sales. Meanwhile, here’s a peek at my last animal print of the season. Almost done!

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Bye for now! Coco

B5533 Microfleece jacket…

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Long time no see! I’ve been visiting family and  doing a lot of sewing. A couple nice keepers and one miserable failure (future posts).

Here’s a recently sewn jacket, a variation of a favorite pattern from Butterick. It’s done in ‘Taxi Yellow’ microfleece from Fabric Mart, and it kept me warm through 5 cold days in Orlando last week. Nice!

B5533 line art

I first made this pattern 4 years, with a lined hood taken from a cape pattern, B5807. It fit perfectly on the View A neckline! It was also fleece, but was a very lightweight and stable variety from JoAnns. My new jacket is mid-weight fleece and has a lot more stretch.

Original

This time, I used View A for the front,

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and View B for the back.

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So far I haven’t put on the pockets, but I think I will, since I keep reaching for them. Mine have rounded corners at the bottom, pretty cute.

Something else I rounded was the point on the collar. I just didn’t want to struggle with the point and end up  with a rounded collar anyway because of the bulky fabric!

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I generally avoid the angst of sewing buttonholes in fleece, so I used four snaps (size 4) for closure – with buttons sewn in place on the outside. Works great.

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I just love the back detail and two-piece sleeves.

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Sewing notes:

  • Size 12.
  • To break up the front a bit, I cut it with a yoke.

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  • I used 3/8″ topstitching throughout.
  • There was lots of staystitching and basting during the construction! Although the fleece has no vertical stretch, it has 80% stretch across the width. Had to tame that beast…
  • The sleeves on the pattern are short – I added 1″.
  • Fusible interfacing doesn’t work on fleece, so I used sewn-in broadcloth interfacing on the collar and front facing.
  • I raised the armscye by 1/2″ at the shoulder to compensate for the stretch in the material.
  • And I flattened the sleeve head quite a bit to fit the armscye with no gathers.
  • For a little Jungle January fun, I faced the back yoke with an animal print. It also serves as a facing for the back neckline.

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It’s almost 7 p.m, time for the Australian Tennis Open! Bye for now – Coco

B6251 Cute jacket!

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It’s perfect weather for working on jackets and coats.

This was quite a project. This pattern is intended for sweater knits, ponte, and blanket knits. The latter led me to try this in poly sherpa fleece. Interesting…

It’s a nice pattern with unexpected collar options. Views A and B have an attached collar, whereas views C and D have a ‘traditional’ shawl collar (the front extends into the collar).

B6251 line art

Just for giggles, here’s the line art from last year’s B6406 – exactly the same as views B and C on B6251. Go figure.

B6402 line art

Anyway…I did a muslin of this several years ago, view A, the jacket, in a very stable ponte from Girl Charlee.

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I found that the center front ended right at my crotch (I hate that word). And that the collar turned very nicely in the ponte. I even did buttonholes!

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I tried to use that info on this fleece version, and was partly successful. I added 2″ to the length and also lowered the CF curve by 1.5″. The jacket ends in a nice place in front – but the collar is just too bulky to do a natural fold.

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Lemonade! Actually, I love this with the collar up! It’s so warm on the back of my neck.

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It’s meant to have a 3-snap closure, but for now they’re on order from Wawak. No way am I attempting buttonholes in fleece. This jacket will live in my car, to be grabbed for that cold cold trip into the grocery. The place that will trigger my Raynoud’s syndrome if I don’t wrap up (pic is from last December, after shopping for Xmas groceries). I asked once – they keep the A/C on 70 degrees.

Raynauds Dec 2016 (2)

Moving on – the ponte coat fail, BurdaStyle 90/2010 #127. I love the design and style, but it is just too big for me, even after I re-drafted it. I think the issue is that I used 4-way stretch ponte. It just keeps growing. It’s not meant for a knit, but I just had to try it 🙂 It’s so pretty.

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Parting shot: my Three Kings Day zygo cactus. Our cool weather kicks in a little late for Christmas blooms.

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What next? After a rather rocky start to 2018 sewing, I’ll have to think about that a bit. Tempting me – I still have a taxi yellow fleece in my stash. Outrageous, right?!

taxi

Ciao! Coco

 

Pants and jackets…

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It’s double-oh early on Cyber Monday! But I think I’ve already contributed all I can to the Black Friday and small business Saturday sales, so I’ll blog to keep myself out of trouble 🙂

I finished my Burda peplum jacket – it was intended as a toile, because I used remnants of a corded denim, but it’s definitely wearable. Great jacket…more details on my first post, here.

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Burda Style Collarless Peplum Jacket 11/2016 #125

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I’m planning a second version in black ponte, with long sleeves. A stable fabric with a little weight is perfect for this pattern (imagine a brocade – would be stunning).

The jacket is styled with wide leg pants done in ITY knit, a fun abstract print in grey, white, and black.

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Feeling brave, I used V9217, a Kathryn Brenne pattern that’s actually intended for woven fabrics (and I’ve sewn 3, first post is here). I love the lines and the flat front on the waistband. And it worked great in ITY!

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I used a straight hem and the slanted pocket from the Pattern Emporium Harem Pants. I use this pocket all the time, because it has a 1-piece pocket bag and doesn’t gape open at the hips.

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Fabric: Monochrome Printed ITY, Fabric Wholesale Direct

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Last but not least, I also sewed a new Tessuti Megan Cardigan in grey ponte from Fabric Mart.

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I made a black ponte version back in August, and at the time, I thought it might be a little small. But that was really my mind working on me – I love wearing it.

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As with my first version, I raised the hemline by 4″, and used a 1″ wide band (the original band is quite narrow).

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This was all fun sewing, and I have outfits!

Bye for now – Coco