Butterick 6107 Shawl Collar Coat

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It’s officially fall in the loft, time for a new jacket and a new pattern!

Butterick 6107 is lovely and interesting to sew. I originally bought it with the standup collar in mind, but I was put off by the way the collar looks when it’s open. No problem – I love shawl collar jackets and coats!

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Sewing notes:

  • My choices: size Small, View A, the length of View C, and the pockets from View B.
  • My fabric is Marigold 100% cotton sweatshirt fleece from Fabric Mart. It has only mechanical stretch and is what I would characterize as mid-weight.

fabric

  • The collar is cut-on rather than attached. I know this scares some folks, but the pattern pieces fit perfectly, and the inside corners were easy to sew. Another nice feature: the upper collar is slightly wider than the under collar to allow for the turn of the cloth. A lot of patterns don’t bother to do this.

collar

  • My buttons are 7/8″ faux tortoise shell, with sew-on snaps for the actual closure. I did lots of looking and found beautiful 15mm bronze snaps by Cotowin on Amazon. BTW, Amazon is a great place to look for studs and snaps, the variety is amazing.

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closures

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  • The patterns calls for lined pockets, but given the weight of my fabric, I drafted mine with an interfaced cut-on facing.
  • Here comes more fun – the back! It’s plain on the pattern, but I split it into 2 pieces just below the armscye. I think the topstitching on the collar, the hem, and this new seam add a lot of interest to the back view.

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Oh, this is such a nice jacket, and I love wearing it.

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We had a nice Halloween night here in my little community, complete with a pizza party at the clubhouse to get some food into the kids’ tummies ahead of all that candy. Most of my neighbors have left their decorations in place, I think everyone is simply enjoying the season.

Parting shot: I had to do it, Starbucks kicked off it holiday flavors today with free reusable cups 🙂 Did anyone else splurge on a peppermint mocha latte?

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Ciao! Coco

Kwik Sew 4015 Reversible Fall Jacket

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What an interesting project, and, yes, a bit of a departure from my usual style.

My inspiration was a pic I found on Pinterest. The colors, prints, and silhouette are so appealing and just say ‘autumn’. Trolling my pattern stash, I found Kwik Sew 4015, which I last used to make Ashley a Kaylee Firefly jacket (here). And I found the perfect fabrics on Marshall Dry Goods, Country Floral cottons.

This pattern has so many options: pre-quilted fabric with bound edges, in-seam pockets, and a mandarin collar (View A), and a reversible jacket with a dropped back hem, patch pockets, and a hood (View B). Between the two, I had every element I needed for my jacket.

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Sewing notes:

  • I cut out the pattern in both my fabrics, all pieces, in size Medium. And I cut yards and yards of bias binding from a plum-colored quilting cotton.
  • The jacket is somewhat fitted, so I redrew the side seams with a slight A-line.
  • I also dropped the front hem to be even with the back, and took out the side curve detail. With a 3/8″addition to the length, my jacket is 28″ long at the center back.
  • Once my shell was sewn, with the hood finished and basted into the neckline, I created a pieced pocket. The idea was to have the pockets and the sleeves echo one another.

pkt

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  • The next step was to sew the contrast and attach it at the neckline. Followed by careful pressing, addition of the binding, and, ta da – a reversible jacket!

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  • I’ve only attached buttons on the main fabric side, but one could add them to the contrast side and/or add pockets as well.

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Cute, right? And incredibly comfortable and lightweight.

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I enjoyed making this so much that I’m thinking of doing another one 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Fall jacket inspiration

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I love this jacket I found on Pinterest (sorry, no source). And I had to go looking for a pattern in my stash. Enter Kwik Sew 4015:

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A little tweaking required for the silhouette and front hemline, but it will work!

Fabrics – I looked on Marshall Dry Goods, king of inexpensive quilting cottons. The combo I purchased is from the ‘Country Floral‘ collection. I love the color and print for fall.

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These fabrics are only $3.99/yard, 100% cotton, 45″ width. Amazing. And they’re on their way – MDG has very fast shipping and reasonable shipping costs.

I’m pretty jazzed about this project! Bye for now – Coco

Lekala 5712 Faux Fur Jacket

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This has been a really fun and time-consuming journey! A faux fur jacket…Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 1.44.32 PM

First step: I purchased several yards of walnut sherpa knit from Fabric Mart. Then I had to do some research: Sherpa is the term for faux shearling, and the foundation is the Sherpa region of Nepal. I felt really brave ordering this fabric, but it’s wonderful. It’s polyester (as are many faux furs), and it has a full tuft on a pretty jersey knit backing.

Then I spent at least a couple days just browsing fur and jacket patterns. There are so many examples of the ‘teddy bear’ coats online, as well as sherpa coats, but I wanted a short jacket, something I can throw on to go to the grocery. I’m so cold in stores!

Finally, I came upon this pattern by Lekala. It was unexpected, as I’ve never sewn a Lekala pattern, but this one is designed for faux fur. An interesting feature, Lekala patterns are based on customized sizing. I decided to go for it!

lekala 5712

We need another pic here…

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Sewing notes:

  • I submitted my sizing as: 34 bust, 32 underbust, 30 waist, 38 high hip, 39 full hip. Normal shoulder, sleeve, etc. The pattern was $2.99, and for $.50 more I got 5/8″ seam allowances and 1 3/4″ hem allowances.
  • I love how dense the pattern is on the PDF! I get really frustrated by PDFs that have 1″ margins (Grainline, I’m talking to you) and just waste my paper and make me crazy with tape and scissors. This one does not.
  • The pattern has a 2-piece bodice, front and back, to allow for the bust. Actually, I didn’t want and don’t need this, so I flattened my pattern pieces to have a 1-piece front and back.
  • I wasn’t sure of the lengths of the arms and jacket, so I added 2″ to both. Absolutely not needed, and I ended up trimming this extra allowance off both.
  • The pattern includes instructions for cutting and sewing a lining, which I didn’t use.

The construction is straight-forward. Shoulder, collar, facing, sleeves, side seams, and hems

  • I love the collar and cut-on facing. Everything fits beautifully to the jacket.

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  • As I wasn’t using a lining, I drafted a back neckline facing.

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More pics…

 

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I love this! Ciao! Coco

Butterick 6423 Coat – a muslin

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No, I’m not losing my marbles, but I’ll admit this muslin has a bit of personality.

Despite its Easy rating, this lined Lisette coat is a fairly complex design. Tricky bits – the one-piece shawl collar, side/sleeve gusset, and pocket detail. Kick in a lining, and it’s definitely not a beginner project.

 

Note the slight narrowing of the silhouette – it’s real (hence the back pleat), and it does encourage the coat to open below the button, as seen on the model. Since I purchased the pattern to make a jacket, the latter doesn’t bother me.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Small – great fit.
  • My jacket is unlined, since I would seldom need the warmth of a lining.
  • I shortened the length by 7.5″, to finish at 29.5″ below the base of the neck.
  • Of course the back seam is too low for a jacket profile, so I raised it to finish about 3/4″ below the side/sleeve gusset seam. And I decided to gather the back skirt, rather than use a pleat (pleats that go awry make me nuts).

back bodice and skirt

  • Once I had the jacket constructed, I played with the collar. Without the ‘balance’ of the longer length, the collar is just too wide. I narrowed one side (the arrow side) so I could compare the two. I’m going with the narrowed version.

front collar view

back and collar view

side back and collar view

I know it’s hard to picture this jacket with all the fabric noise – squinting helps 🙂

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And it’s time to think about a suitable fabric. The pattern suggests wool blends, boiled wool, mohair, wool flannel, and tweeds, and I agree a soft but stable fabric would work best.

Thinking of everyone impacted by severe weather this week, I hope you, your friends, and your loved ones are safe.

Coco