McCall 7597 Tunic dress redux

This is a true revival, because I somehow tossed this pattern (I was in the midst of a style change cycle). But I recently wanted it back – found and ordered on Etsy. Whew.

I first made this back in 2017 (post here), and I really enjoyed the ‘possibilities’ of this classic tunic design. I even drafted a v-neck version, which I revisited in this version.

As I’ve been hankering for slow, challenging sewing, I decided to use bias trim around the bib as well. Ha. It was not easy! because it forced me to bind the neckline rather than use facings.

I also think I went overboard, as I used a contrast and trimmed yoke. Honestly, I wish I had not, as I don’t particularly like the way it looks. On the other hand, I cannot see it!

Fabric: Telio Sofia rayon challis,, purchased on Amazon

I’m in love with Telio fabrics from, and their Fabric Merchants line as well.

It’s a rainy day here in Orlando, very cool and quiet. All the trees are deeply green with new leaves and the benefit of additional moisture. We’ll be in our rainy season in another couple weeks, much needed after record heat this spring. My only regret is that I cannot visit plant nurseries and start the gardens in the front of the house. Small small issue in these times.

Continuing thoughts and prayers for the well-being of all, Coco

McCall 7726 high waist pant revival

Beautiful day, perfect for my outré spring green pants!

I’ve loved this pattern ever since I first sewed it in February of 2018 (here, and the post has lots of notes on sewing these pants). My favorite style is view D, the wide-legged pants.

Unfortunately for me, I originally sewed a size 12, and it really was too big on me. After cinching my belt for a spell, I donated the first two pairs I made, and I ordered a new pattern last summer. This pair is size 10, and it’s perfect!

Some sewing notes:

  • My fabric is a lovely Kaufman Essex linen in yarn-dyed jungle, actually a mix of yellow and forest green yarns. The Kaufman yarn-dyed linens are spectacular, they have just a bit of weight and crumple, and they do not wrinkle. The content is 55% linen, 45% cotton – so launder at least 2 times before cutting, as with any linen, until the dryer fluff diminishes.
  • Speaking of laundering, I actually sewed these pants, all but the hem, and laundered them again. For a couple reasons: fabric tends to lengthen and stretch out during sewing, and I wanted to give the pants a last chance to shrink before I hemmed them.
  • The pattern has a 6″ hem allowance! I removed 5” from hemline on my tissue, and used a 1.5″ hem.
  • As on previous versions, I drafted a fly shield. Zippers can be so scratchy (my previous post has details on adding the fly shield).
  • I also Added bar tacks on fly, these are not mentioned in pattern.
  • And I used 6 belt carriers instead of the suggested 4, as I like one at center back and just off center front, the latter to keep a belt buckle in place.
  • I think McCalls would have us think this is an ‘easy’ pattern, but I think would be a challenge for beginners – zipper, slant pockets, all those pleats, sizing, fitting…

The details are so pretty – here are a couple closeups of the waist/hip treatment:

Even with the fitted waist, hip, and flare to the legs, the back turned out really well, I’m pleased.


Ciao! Coco

McCalls 7969 transitional dress

I’m still here! but a bit challenged on the sewing front. I’m working on my lightweight Brother machine, on a coffee table. But I’m so in love with sewing, all things are possible.

I don’t often shop patterns at JoAnn, but without my pattern inventory and printer at hand, I’ve been perusing the catalogs for things I can sew with limited resources. This cute dress caught my eye right away. I love the sleeves on View A!

I also really like the fabric in the envelope pic. Staying with the vibe, I chose a tropical aviary print in 100% cotton, again from JoAnn.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Medium, with just a few design and fit adjustments.
  • My first change was to add 4″ to the length of the skirt. With a 1 3/4″ hem allowance, it ended up in just the right place. BTW, I really like a deep hem in cotton fabric, for skirt or sleeve. The weight makes the fabric hang so nicely.
  • The neckline is very low! I increased the bodice crossover until I was happy with the depth of the v-neck. This adjustment also narrows the front bodice silhouette, which adds a little shaping.
  • My other ‘big’ change was to the sleeve, which was rather voluminous and dipped almost to my wrist on the back side.

The resulting sleeve is fun and super comfortable, without being over the top.

On the home front, I’m closing on my new house on October 7! I’m so ready to move in 🙂

Bye for now, Coco

Sewing loft journey – in tropical waters

It’s just me and the fish!

Here’s a little summer project – dresses that take me on a journey, starting here in Florida waters! I’m using my favorite knit maxi pattern, McCalls 6559, as my canvas.

Sewing notes:

  • My draft is size 10. I’ve sewn this version so many times that I can pretty much cut and sew, which can be really relaxing.
  • The front neckline is raised a bit so that it fits more nicely on my chest.
  • The change I love most is to the armhole, which I extended to provide a little coverage and softness over the shoulder and upper arm.
  • That little extension at the bottom of the armhole facilitates a beautiful finish.
  • And I like to finish the neckline on simple knit dresses and tees with a self-fabric band. I attach it on the inside, then fold it over and finish on the outside to diminish irritation to my neck and shoulders. Picky!
  • This cute fabric is STOF France Barracuda Blue, midweight cotton/lycra jersey from

The ultimate in armchair travel. But in the past…

Where next? Ciao! Coco

Turtleneck knit maxi dress


I’m so in love with this rayon/lycra knit fabric from Fabric Mart. It reminds me of a Jackson Pollock painting 🙂 So I held onto it for the perfect application.

Screen Shot 2018-12-22 at 9.13.18 AM

For this dress, I combined two favorite patterns: the True Bias turtleneck and the McCall 6559 maxi:


I guess I could have just used the dress version from the Nikko, but I know the McCall maxi is a perfect fit for me. Putting the two together was super easy, I just fitted the upper bodice of the Nikko to the M6559 dress.


Both of my patterns are size 10, and I’ve sewn both many times. More pics…





It’s cool every day now, and I enjoy the warmth of the turtleneck and the sleeves. Plus I feel a little elegant wearing this dress. So pretty.

Ciao – Coco

McCall 7634 Sweatshirt in French terry

front 2

I’m so cold!! and have only a couple long sleeve tops. January and February are our chilly season, we went down to 43 degrees last night. Great excuse for a new top.

I started with M7634, followed with a few modifications, including the V-neck from Burda 06-2011-107B.



I love how this looks! the fabric is navy Telio Stewart French terry knit from, 38% cotton/32% polyester/30% rayon. It has about 25% mechanical stretch both ways, but no recovery at all.


Sewing notes:

  • Sewed the size 12 in the McCall pattern.
  • Used the short view with an additional 4.5″ in the length, and a 3″ (finished) bottom band. The unfinished band is about 7″ wide and a couple inches shorter than the bottom hem. Doubled and stretched it to fit.
  • Recut the neckline using the Burda pattern. It has facings, which I used to stabilize the neckline, in cotton/poly broadcloth. Yes, there is fusible tape in side the shoulder seams to prevent stretch.


  • Stiches and finishes: I sewed the top using a longish (3.0) straight stitch and serged the seam allowances together to finish.
  • Finished the sleeve with a 1.5″ hem allowance plus a couple rows of topstitching.


It’s such a cozy and warm top, and I love the silhouette.

front 1

Parting shot: I was the woman out on the street in her robe last night, taking pictures of the lunar eclipse. Spectacular event! Moving clockwise from the top left photo:


Ciao! Coco


Maxi sweatshirt hoodie!


At last, it’s cool enough to actually wear this hoodie that I made in the spring! It’s 60 degrees, and I’m off to JoAnn with a fistful of coupons.

This adorable polka dot cotton/poly sweatshirt fabric showed up on FabricMart last March, and I snatched it up. I made the jacket in May, and I’ve resisted the temptation to post it until now.

My inspiration was something I found on Pinterest – apology, I didn’t keep the shop name.


I sewed a couple muslins with pieces of various patterns, and I settled on a combo of the Vogue 9275 jacket and the hood from McCall 7634.

Vogue 9275

line art 1
McCall 7634


Sewing notes:

  • I sewed size Medium in the jacket.
  • The hood from M7634 size 12 fits perfectly.


  • While the Vogue jacket is fairly long, I added 2” to length.
  • I drafted front and back neckline facings so the inside of fabric would not show when I don’t zip it (picky).
  • And I drafted a cute pocket, 9″h x 8″w, as I’m not a fan of kangaroo pockets.
  • My zipper is a #5 plastic jacket zipper from Wawak .

zipper in

  • Also from Wawak, a zipper pull!


  • Not sure of the length I needed, I ordered a 36″ zipper and shortened it to fit. These are my jewelry tools, perfect for removing zipper teeth!

zipper 2

  • At the bottom, I added a 2″ wide band that pretty much echoes the cuff. The width of the band is only slightly less than the width of the hem, to give it the sweatshirt vibe.


So so cute! I loved wearing it today. f1

Bye for now! Coco