M7726 High Waisted Pants

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Love this pants pattern…the fit, the waist, the pockets, the wide legs. Everything!

Not a great pic, so bad in fact that this morning I made myself study the info for my camera – how to take an inside shot. It really helped (there are a couple more ‘old’ setting pics in this post, but the newer ones are much better).

Back to the pants!

M7726

Mine are View D – long, wide, belt loops included, and deep hem. I also made the sash, but no photo here. I like it, but it’s a little fussy for casual wear. All my pics here have a 2″ wide belt.

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These are truly wide legs. But in my linen fabric they feel wonderful. Sassy.

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Great paper bag effect. As I mentioned in my post on my muslin (here), this look is like going home to the 80’s.

Sewing notes:

  • I made a straight size 12 (5’7″ and 130 lbs, 34″ hips, 30″ waist).
  • I added 2.5″ to the length, and later realized that View D has a 6″ hem allowance! I actually cut off 6″ and used a 2.5″ hem. Next time, I’ll save my fabric…
  • I think McCalls has tried to make this an ‘easy’ pattern. The zipper. Here’s how it looks per their instructions (which are quite good and well-illustrated ). Since both fronts have cut-on extensions, the resultant zipper is very finished without added bulk:

original zipper

  • I cannot wear a zipper and its associated hardware next to my skin. So I added a fly shield. This is not hard, and there’s lots of help available online, for adding this step-up feature. If you think you might want to use one, just plan ahead in your zipper construction.

fly shield

  • Let’s talk basting. I love love to baste stuff – stitching lines, detail lines, seams. I just take out my long quilters basting needle and go to it. For these pants, which feature 8 pleats in the waistline area, I marked my pieces with chalk and a tracing wheel, and then used a long loose stitch on my machine to cement those critical lines. In a contrast color of course!

basting lines

  • The instructions are good, but don’t include basics like interfacing (the zipper extensions, the pocket edges) or that zipper essential, bar tacks. I added the latter. They secure the fly shield and the bottom of the zipper opening. Again, online research can help anyone not familiar with finishing a zipper:

bar tacks

  • And, my belt loop secret. I cannot stand it when my belt buckle slips up and my pants slip down, right there in the middle of my britches! So I add a fourth belt loop in the front, spaced so that there’s room for the buckle.

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Don’t’ hesitate – just do it 🙂

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  • The fabric. It’s 100% linen from Fabric Mart. Dense black color with nice slubs. First wash: I had black ‘thingies’ all inside the washer and a lot of lint in the dryer. This is predictable for linen, most of the shrinkage and lint come with the first wash. Second wash, it was stable, and I was ready to work with it. Because I used chalk to mark details and notches, and because I know fabric can relax during sewing, I washed the pants again before I hemmed them. I LOVE this linen. It’s soft and rumpled, but not wrinkled. Wonderful fabric.

Such fun pants, a great fit, and a lovely design. I know these are very trendy in the slim capri look (views B and C), but I doubt I’ll go there. I like the swish of wide-leg pants. How cute are these for summer…

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Ciao! Coco

M7726 High Waist Pants muslin!

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Just had to do it…

I was an avid fan of bag-waist pants and shorts back in the 80’s. Remember the ones in washed denim? Well, I still love them, and I’m so happy to find this pattern from McCalls.

Honestly, I never considered wearing these with any kind of sash, so the picture above is my only nod to that part of the pattern (it would be very pretty for some occasions).

This pattern is fully loaded! but the line art is not intuitive.

Views A and D:

  • These are the wider version from my past.
  • The pleats are open above the waist area, which gives that paper bag effect.

Views B and C:

  • These are a classic slim cut,
  • And the pleats are closed all the way to the top, which gives a fitted high-waist effect.

M7726

My muslin is View A/D, cut to the knee so that I could see the fit through the rise and hipline.

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Cute!

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Sewing notes:

  • I cut a straight size 12.
  • My only adjustment was to release the front pleats just a little. Since I’ll wear these with a belt, leaving a little ease in the waist works really well. Since the pleats are the last step in construction, this fit adjustment is a piece of cake.
  • Be sure to mark all the notches and circles on the pattern. You’ll need them!
  • And I recommend following the instruction to baste or thread trace the pleat lines, or you might lose your sanity trying to sew straight pleats.

basting

  • A tip: mark the pleat lines on the right side of your fabric, not the inside. The very deep waistline facing would cover any markings on the inside.

Here a few closeups of the waist and pocket details. Not the best photos, but I tried to show the stitching and so on.

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Making these will be fun, and I’m scouting for some of that soft washed denim.

denim

Ciao! Coco

My long hoodie muslin

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My current project, keeping me out of trouble…a muslin of a long hoodie. This has been fun!

Please excuse any blurry photos. My laptop is acting up, it’s old, on Windows 7 because it cannot handle Windows 10. In fact I’ve ordered a Mac Air 2 to replace it. OK. Yes, I’m excited and broke at the same time 🙂

So – I’m so intrigued by the long hoodies I see on Pinterest. Kind of up my alley. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I order M7634 for a starting point for drafting a long hoodie ( I’m only showing the line art for the long top here, but it has fantastic knit pants as well):

line art 1

And check it out!

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This is a very modified draft. M7634 is a top and/or dress, very slim through the torso and sleeves. So I drafted my tissue using the B6251 jacket pattern as the basis for my upper bodice, shoulders, sleeves, and side seams. What was left? well, that wonderful hood and the hemline bands.

hood up

Honestly, I love messing with patterns. Although admittedly, not all of my mash-ups turn out as well as this one.

Originally, I thought I would add a button band (not wanting to put a zipper in a knit fabric):

my line art

And I did it, using a couple fleece blankets from the drug store, $6 investment. Confession time, I mistakenly cut the whole thing on the cross-grain, which left no stretch horizontally, and the entire thing was too tight. Oh well 🙂

This muslin is also done in fleece blankets from the store, but I changed the front edge. I simply added a cut-on facing to match the width of the fold on the hood. It gives really nice continuity to the flow from the hood down the front. If I were to use snaps or a zipper, I would cut the band separately to allow for interfacing (this version has none) and/or a seam to enclose the zipper tape.

Sewing notes:

  • I like the idea of the hem bands, but wanted mine to curve in just a little. So I simply took 3/8″ out of each band and stretched it to fit.
  • I didn’t add sleeve cuffs – my wrists are so sensitive (scleroderma has shrunken them from 7″ to 6″), so I went for a simple hemmed sleeve.
  • I’ve always been a little intimidated by that seam, hood to neckline, wondering how to finish it without raw edges. Following a nice tutorial on Craftsy, I finished mine with twill tape. Not purple tape, mine is black, what I had hanging around – but remember, this is a muslin. The twill tape is a nice and really easy technique.

twill

twill 2

  • As always I looked online for other versions of m7634. What I noticed most was that the shoulders and hood neckline were loosey-goosey. Stretched out, and just not something I would wear. I tamed the tiger by using tricot knit fusible in the shoulders, and, of course, that twill tape in the neckline/hood seam.

 

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Now I have a great pattern draft, makes me dangerous. I really want to make a long hoodie in sweatshirt fabric. Classic grey?

Ciao! Coco

Fabric stash madness…

Simplicity-Vintage-magnet-fabric-stash_559336001

Breaking the rules…I had a fantastic shopping spree this morning at Fabric Mart. They have their pre-cut fabrics and fabric kits on sale.

This might be my best fabric sales/order ever. A little over 24 yards of fabric for $54, with shipping!

stash

Included in there, 3 patterns. The Sewing Workshop Eureka top and skirt,

tsw eureka

McCalls 6608 woven and knit skirts,

m6608

And New Look 6150 ruched knit tops (perfect for tucking into pants and skirts)!

NL6150.jpg

I love Fabric Mart. Great service, shipping, fabric, and specials. I’m getting dangerous with all the fabric and pattern additions to the loft this year. Wowser!

Ciao! Coco

New patterns – fun ahead

vogue 1New patterns. I always browse the seasonal collections to see if anyone has come up with something new and interesting.

Honestly, I have so many patterns already, which I mix and mash with abandon, that I don’t really buy a lot of new ones.

But recent releases from McCalls got my attention, because they remind me of a couple things I’ve been keeping in my inspiration folder.

First up, and admittedly very trendy this year, paper bag waist pants. The pattern, M7726:

line art pants

I’m leaning toward view D, the relaxed version, in a bottom weight fabric, and put together some nice colors:pants colors

macys linen pants

 

Linen is another possibility, particularly for our warm seasons (three of them!), but it does have a much different vibe. I like the pink, and I think kiwi green would be awesome.

Second pattern, M7634. Is this the 70’s girl coming out in me? Here’s the line art, but think long hoodie.line art hoodie

Check out all the options in this pattern. I was amazed when I saw it. I’m planning to work with the long top, might add a zipper, and I’m not sure which pocket I’ll use.

Colors!

hoodie colors

So far all I have is the patterns, but I’m keeping an eye on fabric sales. Meanwhile, here’s a peek at my last animal print of the season. Almost done!

spots

Bye for now! Coco