Short Blackwood and pinwale pants…


Oh, I love this season! Holiday cheer and chilly weather…perfect for a couple favorites that have kept me busy and happy in the loft.

First off, my first short Blackwood Cardigan (Helen’s Closet). I’ve sewn many in the longer length, last one is here.

bwood emile

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed my usual size large (bust measurement is only 33″) and again added 1″ to the length.
  • This fabric is a super soft midweight rayon French terry knit from Cali Fabrics. They have such a nice selection of this fabric…worth a look.
  • Truth time: it has so much horizontal stretch that I used my walking foot (not something I do often).


Next up, I paired the cardigan with pinwale corduroy Vogue 8584 loose pants.

V8584 lines

I’ve been sewing this pattern for years, all the variations. Love it. I think it’s out of print, but I’ve seen it on Etsy and eBay.


Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 12, with no changes.
  • This beautiful stretch pinwale corduroy is from JoAnn (97% Cotton, 3% Spandex). My store had only two selections, but there are many more colors and prints available online. The little bit of stretch is great.
  • Hard to see, but there, I used the cute curved pockets sewn across the hip (goony pic follows).

show pkts

  • Prepping the pockets took almost as much time as sewing the pants. But I really enjoy details. Not in the mood? just square the bottom corners.

pkt 1-side

  • Finishes – the hem and waistband casing:


I have another pair in the rust corduroy I used for my Utu skirt, also from JoAnn. BTW, a couple washings really soften this pinwale.

Up next, I ordered 3 beautiful shirting fabrics, so there are more Named Clothing Saraste shirts in my future!

Bye for now – Coco

V-neck Alder top in jersey knit


It’s a beautiful cool south Florida morning! Only about 65°, and I’m actually cold in these pics 🙂

Recently I made the Grainline Studio Alder as a v-neck top, two actually, in Brussels washer linen (post here and here). After wearing them, I realized that they’re a bit large, and the v-neck is a little wider than I like. Not to worry, I washed them a few times to shrink them, and all is well.

However – I decided to draft the pattern in a smaller size (8 instead of 10) and to sew it in cotton/lycra jersey. So brave… and a great result!

Sewing notes:

  • As before, I used the self-faced left side for the right side as well, eliminating the attached button band. I re-shaped the v-neckline to be more narrow and 1″ higher and drafted new facings.
f1 2
New neckline and smaller size
  • I can pull this over my head, so I just attached the buttons through both sides, with no buttonholes. Yes, I was avoiding the angst of sewing a buttonhole in a knit fabric!
  • To add some back interest, I added 2.5″ to the width of the lower back and gathered it into the yoke.


  • The back yoke is unlined, which keeps the ‘weight’ of the fabric even from neck to hem and decreases bulk in the armhole binding.
Top: Fabric Merchants cotton/lycra jersey,
  • My finished center back length is 26.5″.
  • And I didn’t used pockets on the front. I did cut them out and prep them, but they didn’t look right, they were just too heavy for this knit.

I’m loving the pants I’m wearing, McCalls 7634 (first post here). A little tattoo art for Halloween!

Pants: Tattoo Tigers, Hearts, Roses jersey, Cali Fabrics

Speaking of Halloween, my cute Ashley in costume for the Halloween party she and Darrin host every year 🙂


Happy Halloween! Coco

Black Sabrina Slims Leggings


More basics…I haven’t made a pair of Love Notions Sabrina Slims for several years. But I have lots of them, mostly in print knits. I have one pair in charcoal grey – but I needed a black pair. I’m in a solid color mood:-)

This is a wonderful pattern. The line art:

Sabrina Slims Line Art

So many options, but I just sew the plain pair. What I absolutely love is the high and wide contour waistband. I cannot stand having to hitch up a pair of leggings!

waist 1

Since it’s been a while since I posted these, a few sewing notes:

  • After my adjustments, my pattern is probably the size 12.
  • I widened the front leg about 3/8″ below my knee on the outside edge to prevent clinging and a forward twist. This works for my calves, but no calves are alike 🙂
  • I added 3″ to the length. This lets me do my hem based on my fabric and how it fits.
  • On all my knit pants, I insert the elastic through an opening in the back waistband seam.

back elastic 2

  • The elastic… I buy 2″ x 12 yard rolls of knit elastic from Wawak. Did you know you can cut/narrow knit elastic, and it won’t ‘run’. Love this stuff, it’s the only elastic I use.
  • Finishing the waistband so it won’t roll… well, this is personal choice. I pull up my elastic about 1/2″ tighter than I need. Then I finish with a line of zig zag stitching, which loosens the elastic a bit. Absolutely no roll ever!

Elastic top stitching


Love these – I’m wearing them with a self-drafted sharkbite hem tunic. Both the leggings and the top are sewn in a terrific Fabric Merchants cotton/lycra jersey (96%/4%) that I found at  It’s the best jersey I’ve used in ages, very affordable, and much nicer than anything I’ve purchased from Girl Charlee. Yes, that’s a recommendation.

Bye for now! Coco

MC2 Harem pants playtime


That look on my face…I love the MC2 sarouel Afghan harem pants!

I’ve made four to date, 2 for me (earlier post here), 2 for Ashley. And I plan to make more. NOTHING in my closet is more comfortable or more fun than these britches.

This is a great pattern I found this year (here):


More pics!


My fabric is a cotton/poly French terry from FabricMart. I love it! It’s lightweight and feels great. I checked, it’s not available at the moment, but their inventory changes so quickly – I check them out every morning…


Cute! and here’s a pic with my self-drafted sharkbite hem knit topper:


I wore this on my evening walk a couple days ago, and a gal and her dog stopped and simply said, ‘that outfit’. That felt good!

Ciao! Coco

Monday muslin V8499 pants


Sometimes I just want to take another look at a pattern. I first made the V8499 pants when I was much heavier, and I was trying Lagenlook styles. Thinking about it over the weekend, and having a couple yards of available Brussels washer linen, I decided to try a smaller size. So a Monday muslin 🙂

First version:


Honestly, I don’t care for this style at the moment. But these pants are not wasted – they’ll be reworked as a straight leg pant. I would really like them in a corduroy for our brief winter. And those pockets are simply too good to ignore.

Undeterred, I’m about to cut out a True Bias Yari jumpsuit in Kaufman Essex linen, yard-dyed denim. I’ve enjoyed my espresso version so much.

And that’s Monday! BTW, the pattern has a super fun skirt as well, it would be great with boots and a short chunky sweater or jeans jacket.

line art.jpg

Bye for now! Coco