True Bias Yari Jumpsuit

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And I love it ๐Ÿ™‚ I wore jumpsuits a lot back in the 80’s – ย they were perfect for travel and for wearing on our farms in Costa Rica. The Yari takes me right back to that time, but it’s a lot easier to wash and wear than the vintage styles.

I was cautious with the pattern because of the design elements and the potential for fit failures. And I read every review I could find. Other folks’ experiences are so helpful, and, in this case, kind of saved my soup. Initially, I contemplated adding an inch or more to the bodice (I’m 5’7″, and Kelli drafts for a 5’5″ model). Many sewers did that exact thing, and they ended up with a too-low crotch seam. This one factor led to my muslin, which I sewed with no changes to the pattern (here).

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So cute!

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Some sewing notes:

  • My fabric is Kaufman yarn-dyed Essex linen in Espresso, purchased from Fabric.com. It’s 55%linen/45% cotton and weighs in at 5.6 oz/square yard. Great weight, body, and hand for this jumpsuit.

fabric

  • I started with View D, the long version with the extended shoulder. Once my shoulders were sewn, I trimmed and reshaped the armhole to suit me. The pattern has a sleeveless option, but I prefer a wider shoulder to balance the overall silhouette of the jumpsuit.

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  • I opted for a self-fabric belt with a D-ring buckle. I don’t care for a lot of fuss on my clothes, so I avoided side tabs, side ties, or a waist tie.
  • I also drafted my pattern with the wide-leg option offered by Kelli in her tutorial (here). It’s really easy, and it doesn’t add to the fabric requirement.

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Small details:

  • The finished shoulder, which is flat-felled on the right side, and a view of the bias binding on the armhole.

binding and shoulder

  • The lower button band area closed with hand-stitching, instead of top-stitching.

hand stitch

  • Inexpensive faux wood (or bone?) 5/8″ buttons from JoAnn. I used 6, spaced at 2 1/2″, being super careful not to have one under my belt buckle (more on buttons in an earlier post, here).

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To close, here’s a shot with no belt!

no belt

Ciao! Coco

Buttons and buttonholes

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I’m working on my True Bias Yari jumpsuit, and this morning hit a critical point. Buttons!

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And buttonholes. I think the buttons are a focus for this pattern, and how well they work to purpose is critical. I decided to use 6 buttons, instead of 5. I never feel locked-in by button placements suggestions. What matters is how it works on me ๐Ÿ™‚

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After I decided on my button (which will be revealed with the post on the finished garment), I moved on to the buttonholes themselves.

I always put together a test piece, built exactly like the area in which I’ll put a buttonhole. Outside, interfacing, facing, edge-stitching, the whole ball of wax. For this garment, which I’m sewing in Essex linen, I decided on a rounded-end buttonhole, with a wider stitch (1) to add a little chunkiness (appearance) and (2) to protect the inherent loose weave of the linen (utility). At the same time, I tested the presser foot pressure (released for linen) and the upper thread tension (also released).

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When I first starting using my Juki HZL F600, I ignored the optional footplate of the buttonhole presser foot. No more! It really helps the fabric glide, any fabric, and is a terrific option.

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Last note on this: I never clip my threads on a buttonhole. Instead I take the front threads to the back and weave everything into the back buttonhole stitching. I just think loose, cut threads on the outside ruin a buttonhole. Finishing them only takes a little time.

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Next up: the jumpsuit! Hope everyone enjoys a lovely weekend, Coco

True Bias dreaming – the Yari

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A rainy day spent cutting and taping. And thinking of the possibilities of the True Bias Yari jumpsuit.

This pattern went by me when it was released. Recent pics on Instagram got me!

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I did lots of browsing and blog reading before I jumped. Indie patterns tend to be expensive, and this is no exception at $14 for the PDF version.

Having purchased and downloaded the pattern, I found myself out of printer ink and paper ๐Ÿ™‚ Normally I have backup inventory of both, but (1) printing the Grainline Felix dress wiped me out of paper, and (2) I got a new printer a couple months ago. And haven’t bought more ink.

printer

 

BTW, this is a great inexpensive printer, $49.99, the Epson Expression Home 440. It’s fully featured, easy to use, and not kerflunked with web links and so on, as was my previous HP printer (drove me crazy)

 

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Anyway, I did an early early morning sprint to Office Depot.ย I don’t take a shopping trip lightly, because I don’t like to do it! I went with my first cup of Joe in hand.

Back to the pattern, ย I found two versions that clinched it for me. Both feature the wide-leg hack that Kelli has on her site (here).

From the Kelli, one that reminds me of all the pinafore-inspired jumpsuits being seen this summer:

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And from the delightfully creative and talented Sophie at Ada Spragg, beautifully done with a waist casing:

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I will be cautious! There are a bunch of critical fitting points, so I’ll do a muslin in stash cottons, just the shorts.

However – ordered this morning, pear Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen. This color is not easy to find, but ImagineGnats came to my rescue ๐Ÿ™‚

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p.s. I do buy a lot of this Brussels Washer linen from Fabric.com, but they haven’t had this color in stock. Still, it’s a great shopping alternative. They have a wonderful inventory of Kaufman linens, both Brussels Washer and Essex.

Back soon! Coco

Crossover Culottes – summertime!

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I’m a dedicated browser of BurdaStyle.com – their designs fit me really well, they add patterns frequently, and, if I’m looking for a particular style, I can usually find it somewhere in their collections. ย And, IMHO, their summer patterns are much more creative and interesting than those being offered by the Big Four (boring boring boring). My latest find is this really cute culotte pattern, ย 2018-06-103A.

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BS6770 Line Art

 

 

The ‘look’ reminds me of the Burda 6770 wrap pants (posted here).

I made a couple pairs of these last summer, and wore them out. Now I think I need some more! but that’s for later.

Back to the culottes…

These are not skorts! Check out the super nice crossover tab element, the subtle front pleats, and the big pockets.

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Sewing notes:

  • This lovely cotton twill is from Fabric Mart, the elusive ‘NY Designer. It is so soft and doesn’t really wrinkle, just rumples a bit. I drafted my pattern with 1/2″ seam allowances and serged all of them after cutting, since twill tends to ravel.
  • I thought the fit might be a bit tricky, so I drafted my first version in size 40, using the Burda size charts. My muslin was much too large in the hips and waist, although the crotch length and curve were fine. Rather than adjust my tissue, I went back and drafted size 38. Bingo!
  • Even the back fits really well. Whew.

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  • The pattern has an invisible zipper in the left side seam, but I simply cannot wear zippers against my skin. So I used the left pocket and snaps for access and closure. This is the only change I made to the pattern.

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  • The instructions are typically cryptic and worth reading several times before starting the project ๐Ÿ™‚
  • A tip: there are a lot of seams, folds, and fabric going into the faced waistline. Clipping out the seam allowance really helps to reduce bulk. After the clipping, but not shown here, I also layered the seam allowances.

SA clipping

Parting shot: demonstrating the pants leg, with assists. Remember those Vogue pattern poses a few years ago?

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Ciao! Coco