Yari jumpsuit recycle

To open, I love the True Bias Yari jumpsuit. Unfortunately, mine, size 8, is just too big on me. Since I used a lovely Kaufman expresso yarn-dyed linen, I’ve taken the plunge (after months and months) and recycled it.

Pants! I cut the pattern below the second button and went from there. Since the crotch was very low on me, I raised the pants and lowered the hem for a better fit.

I folded the top a couple inches to form a cut-on waistband and added 7 belt carriers.

Pics!

Perfect πŸ™‚

Parting shot: I have an unusual tree in my back yard, a tapioca – Manihot esculenta – aka cassava. It was trimmed along with my mandarin tree last fall, but my understanding is that it simply grows with abandon if not harvested for its roots. And it seems to enjoy the partial shade of the back corner of the yard. It is blooming like crazy, small, pretty blossoms, and it’s about 20′ high. Check out those leaves, so unique.

The Green Garden Girls came over yesterday with a plan for the front yard. Beautiful, I’m so excited. It combines tropical lush with bungalow charm.

Next up – not sure, I think I’ll finish my Cheetah Moon harem pants and just think about the challis in the stash. BTW, I do plan another Yari, I think with short sleeves like an aviator jumpsuit! Future…

Feeling blessed – Coco

Hot hot hot and harem pants

It’s so hot outside, 93 degrees for a couple days. I don’t really mind, but I also don’t feel like wearing a bunch of fabric, such as a maxi dress. Truth is, I need to replace my entire AC system, air handler (16 years old) and compressor (10 years old). I knew this when I bought the house, and I’m ready now that we are into summer weather. The system struggles, runs all day, to maintain 79 degrees in the house (I have lots of fans). Only the lockdown has kept me from doing it – come June and these boogies are getting replaced!!

Enter my new challis Pattern Emporium Harem pants, always a favorite. I’m also wearing a lightweight True Bias Ogden cami, a button variation. As an aside, I just don’t feel like hiding anything, so my skin is here in all its scarred and scleroderma ‘patterned’ and irregular glory πŸ™‚ It’s kind of cathartic to do this, and my buddy alligator has my back. It has been 10 long years…

Sewing notes:

  • I am still sewing the size 12 in the pants, but I’ve taken quite a bit out of the sides. I suppose I could size down, but now my tissue works, so I won’t bother πŸ™‚
  • My cami is size 4. I drafted the button variation early on, but I think that Kelli has a tutorial on how to do this.
  • Fabric: Rifle Co. Wonderland Blue Magic Forest. The cami is simple broadcloth.
  • As a note, I’m 5’7″, measurements 33.5″/29″/39″. I hope this helpful. I myself get so frustrated when I research reviews and pics of a pattern and have no idea of how it really fits – few sewists include the info.

Play time:

I am thinking of all my blog friends, every one, and hope you are finding grace and faith, these are such unfamiliar times. For now, Coco

Style Arc Barb Pants

It’s always gratifying to conquer a fear! Other than leggings, I’ve avoided taking on slim pants. There are so many considerations and fitting points – bum, thighs, rise – and challenge of finding just the right fabric.

I always enjoy the variety of patterns offered by Style Arc and their availabity in PDF format. While cruising patterns on Pinterest, the Barb pants caught my eye. Research disclosed that I’m way behind the times – this pattern was among the ‘best of 2015’ on Pattern Review! Curiously, I found I actually had this pattern languishing on my computer. I apparently received it at no cost when I signed up for the Style Arc newsletter. And this promotion is still active on their Facebook page!

Style Arc recommends stretch bengaline, a fabric with which I was unfamiliar. It was a bit difficult to source, but I found it at FabricGenie in a wide range of colors. It’s really nice! AKA faille (which I’ve sewn in a cotton blend with much wider ribs), it has minimal vertical stretch. Style Arc makes a point of reminding the sewist of the latter, so that a pattern is cut with the stretch in the needed direction.

Sewing notes:

  • My primary change was to raise the waistband to my natural waist. I just don’t like elastic waistbands in low rise pants. It was as easy as adding 1 1/4″ to the front and back rise using the convenient lengthen/shorten line on the pattern.
  • Reduced the curve in the crotch. The latter accomodates my flat-ish fantail and prevents wrinkles across the back side of the pants.
  • Lifted the waistline at center front by 3/8″.
  • Based on the width of my upper thigh, mid-thigh, and calves, I also added 1/2″ to the front and back side seams.

What a great fit! and so comfortable. I have more of this fabric, and I know exactly where it will go. Black slacks and blue jeans – my favorites.

Jacket, V6144 Kathryn Brenne, post here

Parting note, my camera is fading away on me 😦  It’s about 10 years old, is not fancy, and has been used in heat and humidity. Annoying, so it’s time for a new one.

I hope you are well, bye for now, Coco

Pattern Fantastique Terra variation

OK, I’m feeling playful. And adventurous. I love the fit on the Terra pants, waist, hips, backside, frontside – so I decided to make a version with straight legs v.s. the pattern’s curved outseam.

Cute, right?

This should have been a ‘no-brainer’, but of course I had to delve deeply into the draft of the legs. I started by dropping the side seams straight down from the bottom of the pocket, and I ended up with voluminous legs. Hmmm. Slept on that, and this afternoon pulled out Butterick 5504, a great capri pattern, and used its dimensions as a guide.

I’m glad for more than just the measurements, because I’m thinking I need to make these pants again. I last sewed this pattern years ago. And I have some lovely black stretch bengaline that would be perfect.

In the end, my draft was pretty simple. Based on B5504, I dropped the outseam below the pocket for a final leg width of 24.5″ at the bottom. I made no changes to the inseam or elsewhere.

Fabric: Kaufman yarn-dyed Essex in black, Fabric.com

How is everyone doing? I’m grateful for a hobby and lifestyle that are not hugely impacted by all the restrictions in place. But I will admit I don’t sleep very well, I am concerned for my family, who are not so easily isolated, and of course I cut my hair.

Warm thoughts to all, Coco

Pattern Fantastique Terra Pants

It’s Terra time! I haven’t sewn these cute pants in 4 years, mostly because I needed to reprint, tape, and draft the pattern in a smaller size.

I also wanted to spend a lot of time working with changes and adjustments based on my notes from the first go-round.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed size 8 – my previous versions were size 12 and were always too large.
  • I removed/flattened the jutting pocket edge, and I narrowed the side seam. The latter diminishes the cocoon aspect of the pants just a bit.

  • I completely reworked the fly/zipper area. The pattern has only 3/8″ seam allowances and uses a sewn-on fly extension. As a result, the zipper is bulky and poorly covered. My change was really fairly simple: I drafted the center front and crotch seam with 5/8″ SA’s and added a cut-on fly extension. The final touch is a shaped fly shield.
Fabric: Kaufman Essex linen in eggplant, Fabric.com
  • The pattern has 3 back pocket options, single welt, double welt, and patch. I seldom put a back pocket on pants, but these are really nice (check out those neat double carriers at center back, also part of the pattern).

More pics!

So I’ve fallen in love with these funky Terras once again πŸ™‚ Bye for now – Coco

McCall 7726 high waist pant revival

Beautiful day, perfect for my outrΓ© spring green pants!

I’ve loved this pattern ever since I first sewed it in February of 2018 (here, and the post has lots of notes on sewing these pants). My favorite style is view D, the wide-legged pants.

Unfortunately for me, I originally sewed a size 12, and it really was too big on me. After cinching my belt for a spell, I donated the first two pairs I made, and I ordered a new pattern last summer. This pair is size 10, and it’s perfect!

Some sewing notes:

  • My fabric is a lovely Kaufman Essex linen in yarn-dyed jungle, actually a mix of yellow and forest green yarns. The Kaufman yarn-dyed linens are spectacular, they have just a bit of weight and crumple, and they do not wrinkle. The content is 55% linen, 45% cotton – so launder at least 2 times before cutting, as with any linen, until the dryer fluff diminishes.
  • Speaking of laundering, I actually sewed these pants, all but the hem, and laundered them again. For a couple reasons: fabric tends to lengthen and stretch out during sewing, and I wanted to give the pants a last chance to shrink before I hemmed them.
  • The pattern has a 6″ hem allowance! I removed 5” from hemline on my tissue, and used a 1.5″ hem.
  • As on previous versions, I drafted a fly shield. Zippers can be so scratchy (my previous post has details on adding the fly shield).
  • I also Added bar tacks on fly, these are not mentioned in pattern.
  • And I used 6 belt carriers instead of the suggested 4, as I like one at center back and just off center front, the latter to keep a belt buckle in place.
  • I think McCalls would have us think this is an ‘easy’ pattern, but I think would be a challenge for beginners – zipper, slant pockets, all those pleats, sizing, fitting…

The details are so pretty – here are a couple closeups of the waist/hip treatment:

Even with the fitted waist, hip, and flare to the legs, the back turned out really well, I’m pleased.

Show-off…

Ciao! Coco

Megan Nielsen Virginia Leggings

Cool weather inspiration! I haven’t made these leggings since 2013, no particular reason, I just got caught up with other patterns. On Sunday I found my old pair in my hosiery drawer – the new house is still giving up surprises πŸ™‚

Fantastic pattern, now available in a full range of sizes (Original and Curve).

Sewing notes:

  • I’m 5’7″ and sewed the size Large. I probably could sew the Medium, but I really don’t like skin-tight leggings.
  • And I used the lightening stitch on my machine for all the seams. An example using the same type fabric in a different colorway – yes, second pair πŸ™‚
  • I cut the length at the XL mark, just to add a bit more fun at the ankle.
  • And I added 1″ to the rise, as I don’t want to be hitching them up all the time.

The leggings are an easy and fast sew – no side seams and an easy-to-apply waistband with inserted elastic. I think I’ve mentioned my approach to the latter before, but, feeling chatty, here’s another go at it.

I like to insert elastic in the back seam of the band, not through the waistband/garment seam. I baste down the seam allowances to ease my way past them (a good idea no matter how you like to approach the casing).

And I rely on favorite tools from Dritz:

Cute fabric, brushed poly jersey from Fabric.com. They always have a great selection.

I love the ankles on these leggings, all scrunchy!

Self-drafted top in cotton/lycra jersey

Ciao! Coco