It’s a beautiful cool south Florida morning! Only about 65°, and I’m actually cold in these pics 🙂
Recently I made the Grainline Studio Alder as a v-neck top, two actually, in Brussels washer linen (post here and here). After wearing them, I realized that they’re a bit large, and the v-neck is a little wider than I like. Not to worry, I washed them a few times to shrink them, and all is well.
However – I decided to draft the pattern in a smaller size (8 instead of 10) and to sew it in cotton/lycra jersey. So brave… and a great result!
As before, I used the self-faced left side for the right side as well, eliminating the attached button band. I re-shaped the v-neckline to be more narrow and 1″ higher and drafted new facings.
I can pull this over my head, so I just attached the buttons through both sides, with no buttonholes. Yes, I was avoiding the angst of sewing a buttonhole in a knit fabric!
To add some back interest, I added 2.5″ to the width of the lower back and gathered it into the yoke.
The back yoke is unlined, which keeps the ‘weight’ of the fabric even from neck to hem and decreases bulk in the armhole binding.
My finished center back length is 26.5″.
And I didn’t used pockets on the front. I did cut them out and prep them, but they didn’t look right, they were just too heavy for this knit.
I’m loving the pants I’m wearing, McCalls 7634 (first post here). A little tattoo art for Halloween!
Speaking of Halloween, my cute Ashley in costume for the Halloween party she and Darrin host every year 🙂
More basics…I haven’t made a pair of Love Notions Sabrina Slims for several years. But I have lots of them, mostly in print knits. I have one pair in charcoal grey – but I needed a black pair. I’m in a solid color mood:-)
This is a wonderful pattern. The line art:
So many options, but I just sew the plain pair. What I absolutely love is the high and wide contour waistband. I cannot stand having to hitch up a pair of leggings!
Since it’s been a while since I posted these, a few sewing notes:
After my adjustments, my pattern is probably the size 12.
I widened the front leg about 3/8″ below my knee on the outside edge to prevent clinging and a forward twist. This works for my calves, but no calves are alike 🙂
I added 3″ to the length. This lets me do my hem based on my fabric and how it fits.
On all my knit pants, I insert the elastic through an opening in the back waistband seam.
The elastic… I buy 2″ x 12 yard rolls of knit elastic from Wawak. Did you know you can cut/narrow knit elastic, and it won’t ‘run’. Love this stuff, it’s the only elastic I use.
Finishing the waistband so it won’t roll… well, this is personal choice. I pull up my elastic about 1/2″ tighter than I need. Then I finish with a line of zig zag stitching, which loosens the elastic a bit. Absolutely no roll ever!
Love these – I’m wearing them with a self-drafted sharkbite hem tunic. Both the leggings and the top are sewn in a terrific Fabric Merchants cotton/lycra jersey (96%/4%) that I found at Fabric.com. It’s the best jersey I’ve used in ages, very affordable, and much nicer than anything I’ve purchased from Girl Charlee. Yes, that’s a recommendation.
My fabric is a cotton/poly French terry from FabricMart. I love it! It’s lightweight and feels great. I checked, it’s not available at the moment, but their inventory changes so quickly – I check them out every morning…
Cute! and here’s a pic with my self-drafted sharkbite hem knit topper:
I wore this on my evening walk a couple days ago, and a gal and her dog stopped and simply said, ‘that outfit’. That felt good!
Sometimes I just want to take another look at a pattern. I first made the V8499 pants when I was much heavier, and I was trying Lagenlook styles. Thinking about it over the weekend, and having a couple yards of available Brussels washer linen, I decided to try a smaller size. So a Monday muslin 🙂
Honestly, I don’t care for this style at the moment. But these pants are not wasted – they’ll be reworked as a straight leg pant. I would really like them in a corduroy for our brief winter. And those pockets are simply too good to ignore.
Undeterred, I’m about to cut out a True Bias Yari jumpsuit in Kaufman Essex linen, yard-dyed denim. I’ve enjoyed my espresso version so much.
And that’s Monday! BTW, the pattern has a super fun skirt as well, it would be great with boots and a short chunky sweater or jeans jacket.
And I love it 🙂 I wore jumpsuits a lot back in the 80’s – they were perfect for travel and for wearing on our farms in Costa Rica. The Yari takes me right back to that time, but it’s a lot easier to wash and wear than the vintage styles.
I was cautious with the pattern because of the design elements and the potential for fit failures. And I read every review I could find. Other folks’ experiences are so helpful, and, in this case, kind of saved my soup. Initially, I contemplated adding an inch or more to the bodice (I’m 5’7″, and Kelli drafts for a 5’5″ model). Many sewers did that exact thing, and they ended up with a too-low crotch seam. This one factor led to my muslin, which I sewed with no changes to the pattern (here).
Some sewing notes:
My fabric is Kaufman yarn-dyed Essex linen in Espresso, purchased from Fabric.com. It’s 55%linen/45% cotton and weighs in at 5.6 oz/square yard. Great weight, body, and hand for this jumpsuit.
I started with View D, the long version with the extended shoulder. Once my shoulders were sewn, I trimmed and reshaped the armhole to suit me. The pattern has a sleeveless option, but I prefer a wider shoulder to balance the overall silhouette of the jumpsuit.
I opted for a self-fabric belt with a D-ring buckle. I don’t care for a lot of fuss on my clothes, so I avoided side tabs, side ties, or a waist tie.
I also drafted my pattern with the wide-leg option offered by Kelli in her tutorial (here). It’s really easy, and it doesn’t add to the fabric requirement.
The finished shoulder, which is flat-felled on the right side, and a view of the bias binding on the armhole.
The lower button band area closed with hand-stitching, instead of top-stitching.
Inexpensive faux wood (or bone?) 5/8″ buttons from JoAnn. I used 6, spaced at 2 1/2″, being super careful not to have one under my belt buckle (more on buttons in an earlier post, here).