Butterick 6296 Classic PJs – Jammin’

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Sewist at work – a candid fit-photo in the sewing loft.

It’s time for summer PJs – I’m really really tired of leggings and tees!

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I decided to start with a short-sleeved top and long-ish pants.

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They’re sewn in Michael Miller ‘Meet Me in the Meadow Spring Bloomers’, a quilting-weight cotton I found on sale at Hancock’s of Paducah.

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After my recent angst about Emile, my dress form, and my thoughts of replacing her, I found just I couldn’t do it. I apologized, and we’re still BFFs…

The pants are terrific, so I decided to make a Capri-length pair for street-wear.

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I re-used the fabric from a tiered maxi dress that I made in 2015, and have never worn. It was just too much sea life – but I’ve always loved this Tonga Batik from Timeless Treasures Fabrics.

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A few sewing notes – this pattern is really well-drafted, so my changes were really for style, not fit.

  • I sewed the top in size 12, and the pants in size 14.
  • I shortened the pink pants by 7 5/8″ inches, and the octopus pants by another 1 3/8″.
  • And I added 1″ to the length of the sleeve.
  • Going for comfort, I left off a couple things: the pockets on the top and the yoke on the back of the pants piece. That yoke is kind of a lost detail anyway, and it might be bunchy below the gathered waistband.
  • The pattern has lots of piping detail, which I addressed by leaving off most of it, too. On the sleeve and pants bands, I used a contrast broadcloth edging instead. I cut 2″ wide bias strips, folded them in half, and attached them the same way the piping would have been sewn.

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More PJs are underway –  this is fun, easy sewing.

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Bye for now! Coco

Burda 6770 Wrap Pants – fun!

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I’m definitely into warm-weather sewing now. And done with home dec…boring.

BS6770 Line Art
On Simplicity.com

These are such cute britches!

I’ve been looking at them for a while, but I’ve hesitated. I find sarouel and Thai fishermen pants to be very uncomfortable, just too much fabric and fuss. However – Sarah Webb just posted a pair of these Burda pants on Instagram  (Sarah is so creative and innovative, and she’s a constant inspiration for my sewing).

click. Miss Impatient here downloaded them from Sewing Patterns and had a pattern drafted in no time.

Some more pics. I love how these fit in the front,

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And in the back.

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They don’t even hint at having a elastic waist. Great fit in the fantail.

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My top is a modified Sewing Workshop Trio – I added a side slit with hem variations front and back. And I raised the gathered back panel by about 3 inches.

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I know it’s really hard to see the ‘wrap’, front pleats, or dropped waist with this print, but maybe this helps.   The wrap doesn’t impede leg movement at all.

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Sewing notes:

  • The instructions are a little spare, but the illustrations make up for it. I’d put this at advanced beginner and above – a fun project for summer.
  • I sewed the size 12, which worked well for me with only one adjustment. The finished waistband on the original is just over 37″ – that waistband has to go over my 39.5″ hips! So I lengthened the waistband and narrowed the seam allowances at the top of the pants.
  • All the reviews I read, and Sarah, mentioned that the pants are very narrow in the lower leg. I added 1″ to both sides of the front and back at the hemline, and trued the side seams back up to the knee area. Worked great for me. Thank you, ladies!
  • And I didn’t like the length of the pants – they seemed a little long for the profile of the legs. So I shortened them by 2″, giving me an inseam of 22.5″.

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These are sewn in cotton calico from my stash, and I’m loving how they turned out. I think other good fabrics would include cotton sateen, with or without stretch, linen, even midweight (6 – 8 oz) knits and lightweight ponte.B6296_a

 

Up next – I’m cutting out summer pj’s today, using Butterick 6296 Lisette Classic PJs. Move over, J Crew…

Ciao! Coco

 

 

 

V8499 and Tessuti Demi Pant- the combo mambo…

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Now that is a happy face!

I’ve been so busy – watching April and Oliver as they wait for their little giraffe to appear, and thinking about my recent makes of the V8499 and Tessuti Demi pants. And getting a new hot water heater. Yes, domestic needs do intrude sometimes on my sewing.

Revisiting the V8499 pants, I mentioned in my post that they might work better in a woven. So I tried them in a linen/rayon blend. Hmm. A little soporific…

Plain V8499

But the pattern has a great darted front and waistband.

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My affection for the Tessuti Demi Pants was still lukewarm pending more work.

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What an opportunity – I decided to combine the patterns using the linen pants as my target. Out with that boring hem!

Line art:

Line Art x 2

This was a simple change. I drew the Demi detail on the linen pants, cut, and sewed. Not bad!

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In fact, they’re really cute.

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I actually wore shoes for these pics, because they do make a difference in the how the pants look. These are my favorite Madden Girl gladiator cheaters. And I’m wearing my Sewing Workshop Trio Top, hemmed and buttoned (I’ve become a bit fond of the top, collar and all). I love love the back on the Trio, and the upper arm coverage…

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A note on my fabric: it’s a 55% linen/45% rayon blend from Fabric.com, the charcoal colorway. It’s very nice, and has a perfect rumple with no shine (I’ve found that blends that reverse the content – 55% rayon/45% linen – tend to drape more, have fewer slubs, and have a slight sheen).

Both blends ravel! so I serged the cut ends of the yardage before putting it through the washer and dryer 3 times. I also serged around all my cut pieces before I started sewing. It’s so easy to lose the seam allowance to a healthy ravel on linens.

Fabric

I think that’s the end of this particular saga. All that remains is to order some more of this lovely fabric and make another pair. I like them 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Tessuti Demi Pant – a muslin…

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I love new patterns…even this one!

This is a quickie post, to show my muslin efforts last week with the Tessuti Demi Pant. So, what’s ‘demi’ about it?! Pattern naming by indie designers seems to be very subjective.

demi pant line art

Anyway.  I’ve seen a few interesting makes of this, and since I love baggy pants with funky details, I gave it a try. Progress so far – well, mine are just shapeless. Maybe, when I’ve nothing else to do, I’ll fool around with it. I noticed in reading reviews that it’s either loved or not.

Another view, it’s awful, but I’ll share. Grant you, the top seems too narrow for the pants, but I think that, with this much volume in the pants, an appropriate top would be very unstructured. It might be time to pull out my unsewn Tina Givens patterns, she has some lovely tops that might work.

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Parting shots:

It’s almost spring, and we’re having very high winds (15 – 30 mph). The mahogany trees are giving up their fruit – which are best described as wooden projectiles. They are huge, hard, and dangerous! These things keep me out of the garden except for a couple careful pick-up visits each day. If I don’t remove them, the nuts release hundreds of seeds that sprout in my garden like grass.

Their geometry is very alluring, I’ve always admired them, even when they make me nuts.

Mahagony nuts (1)

Mahagony nuts (2)

Monday – on to more projects 🙂 Bye for now, Coco

Vogue 8499 – Adventures in sewing…

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I’ve been feeling so brave. And here’s another chapter in my Lagenlook journey. Pants.

Here’s the inspiration for my latest make, the Oska Topsy Trousers (Oska has wonderful Lagenlook styles – I want them all). These are done in a cotton/linen blend. Cute, right? Even better, Oska makes recommendations on styling their garments. For these pants, ” a great combination partner for short straight, long narrow or moderately swinging tops”.

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I think Marcy Tilton’s V8499 pants come really close. Like the Oska trousers, they have a flat front waistband, with elastic in the back for wearing comfort, they’re ankle-length, and have that characteristic little balloon in the line of the leg. Vogue has styled theirs with a short boxy top as well.

 

I don’t have any short boxy tops – my Willow top was always too small, and it’s gone. But I do have some patterns I can use, if I decide stay with these pants. A couple more pics…I love those deep funky pockets! And I apologize for the weird exposure – all these light colors, including my hair, make it hard to get a balanced photo with my little camera.

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A few sewing notes:

  • I made View B, the shorter look, in size 12. This is down one size for me in Vogue pants, because a lot of sewists cautioned that these pants run really large. Actually, I could easily do the 10.
  • My fabric is a midweight (13 oz) cotton/poly/spandex French terry twill from Girl Charlee. It has 4-way stretch, which is nice for knit pants, and holds the lines of the pattern really nicely.
  • That’s it – I didn’t change anything!

I also made a pair in poly/rayon ponte from JoAnns, to match my brown/cocoa striped top. No pic of them together – even though the browns match perfectly, the styling is just all wrong. Which means I’ll probably crop the top! In this pic I’m just wearing a white knit, hitched up in front to show the pockets.

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I wish I could find a decent line drawing of these pants. Marcy Tilton’s patterns have such nice detail and finish. On these,

  • There are front darts to keep the front nice and flat, so they don’t bunch up around the waist and would work really well with a short top.
  • The pants have 4 pieces, not 2.
  • Two darts in the front calf area form the modified pouching effect and narrow the pant to the ankle. Perfect.
  • The waistband sews together beautifully – flat front to elastic back. I’ve seen this done before in a very clumsy way. This one works without a lot of fuss or bulk in the side seam.
  • Everything, every seam and dart, is topstitched. I love this look.

Soooo…here’s what I think. They’re nice pants, easy to wear, and fun to sew. I think I’d really like them in woven fabric, in a smaller size, worn with a boxy top (more like the example from Oska). I can’t go very far into the layered look that is often adopted with Lagenlook styles. It’s just too hot in Florida, even in winter.

I also think I might be an inveterate slim-pant person…here’s the same grey top, which is a modified Hemlock Tee, with favorite Sabrina Slims pants:

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Wonder Woman pose…

Next up? Well, I’m waiting for some patterns to arrive in the mail. I’m really enjoying trying new styles, even if I do use up a lot of fabric 🙂

Bye for now – Coco