More paper bag pants and exploring the closet…

As promised, another pair of paper-bag waist pants using the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs pattern (original post here)

I love this Kaufman Essex yarn-dyed fabric in peacock. It’s a combo of navy and turquoise threads. Plus, I just love Essex linen for britches. My pics are lightened, so here’s the real thing:

I sewed this pretty much as I sewed as the grey pair, just changing the pattern to have a waistband, front and back, and keeping the wide waste-paper bag look.

Sewing tips: I’m a fanatic for belt loops that actually support a belt.

Front – I add a belt loop a couple inches out from the CF to support the belt buckle.

Blouse: Named Clothing Saraste shirt

And, back -hello Burberry – I use 2 belt loops at the CB to prevent weighty drag.

I really like these, and wore them today to miscellaneous appointments. Feeling groovy, a little boho.

I have to say that I do not like the encumbrances of the new WordPress editor. I click, click, and click.

Moving on, I went through my belt hanger today and have lots of hardware to salvage!

Ciao! Coco

Republique du Chiffon – le Manteau Gerard

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One of those perfect projects.

I purchased this jacket pattern from Republique du Chiffon 5 years ago, and somehow it got lost in my stash. I love the 80’s vibe of the jacket, which is why I picked it up in the first place. Check it out – there are some beautiful versions to view online.

The line art below is from the currently available version. Mine, the original PDF, has applied pockets, which I really like on this casual semi-grunge style.

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I used a cotton/tencel/lycra light-weight denim from Fabric Mart. The fabric has enough weight that I was able to skip the lining. It’s warm enough here in south Florida without any additional layers inside.

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Top: Named Saraste shirt

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Sewing notes:

  • I drafted the size Small, and it’s a beautiful fit on my frame. However… I don’t see the PDF on the pattern site now, only a printed/envelope version. I noticed sizing changes that would definitely impact my purchase decision – the small is too small, the medium is too large. Sorry to be a bummer, but I might not go for it at 17 euros plus shipping from France.

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  • I removed the ‘cocoon’ curve from the side seams, the silhouette is just not my thing.
  • The facings and hem bands are generous and perfect for finishing the jacket without lining.

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Inside view

  • I used 3/4″ buttons and buttonholes with rounded ends. Honestly, I didn’t even open the buttonholes because I won’t wear this buttoned. But I like the additional visual detail.

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  • Small tip on making a perfect front curve on the bottom front edge…clip, check, clip, until the curve is even and flat with no lumps when it’s turned.

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So, here’s lucky. Fabric Mart sent me an additional 8″ in length – I got the end of the bolt. I had just enough to make the matching capris I’m wearing in these pics. Now I have a casual suit as well ๐Ÿ™‚

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Pants: Vogue 8584 loose leg pants, View A

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I’m not sure what I’ll sew next. Being the good Fabric Mart shopper that I am, I have 5 fabrics coming my way next week. Perhaps I’ll do a pair of True Bias Hudson pants, since I have a beautiful black matte jersey tempting me from my stash. I wear my leggings – Love Notions Sabrina Slims, Hudsons, and Pattern Emporium Harem pants – so much that I just keep on making them ๐Ÿ™‚

Ciao! Coco

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit therapy…

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This week I’ve been so taken up with meetings with my realtor, and today, photographers, for my house listing. Somehow I’ve managed to keeping sewing and playing with patterns.

I’m so in love with this pattern from Paper Theory:

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I’ve already worn my first version (here) so many times, it’s such an easy garment to wear. Throw it on and it works. This second version is (again) in a cotton/linen woven from Fabric Mart. The weight and hand are perfect for a jumpsuit. And it’s a pleasure to sew this fabric.

Pics follow, and they speak for themselves. Sewing notes – check out my first version, this one is the same. Except: After my post on the first version, I took up the hemline by 1.5″. I like the somewhat shorter length.

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It’s so weird to take photos in the loft without all my usual things in place. It feels almost sterile! but I’ll admit it a lot easier to photograph against a white background rather then the Hot Moon paint of days past. My closets are crammed with pics and artwork that were removed for the staging and so on. But they’ll be back eventually.

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IMHO a print fabric really works with this pattern. Just for fun (you know what that means), I’m cutting out another one in a larger print. I’mย really not inclined to do it in a solid color. But…if I were to do it in a solid, it would be Kaufman Essex linen, not anything drapey or loose, such as silk, crepe, or satin (some of the suggested fabrics). Maybe a jacquard chambray. It needs some weight and structure in the fabric.

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I look fairly put together, right? My house listing will be online on Friday, I’m kind of (very) excited about that.

Parting note: In the middle of all this, I’m being treated for a shortened/thickened sacrotuberous ligament in my left hip saddle. So painful, and my left leg is/was about 1/2″ shorter than my right leg. I’ve been limping, and my right knee was taking a beating. I’m having physical therapy twice a week now and doing my exercises every day. Cause? who knows…osteoarthritis, osteoporosis, scleroderma, age, a combination. My mom had this at about my age and did not seek any help at all. Eventually her spine collapsed in a J on her left hip, and she ended up 4″ shorter, with titanium rods in her spine and a short left leg that could not be fixed. I mention this because perhaps it will help someone else to make the decision to address a similar health issue. We need to help ourselves.

Bye for now – Coco

Summer pants in Kaufman Essex linen

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Back to my favorites – Vogue 8584 wide-leg pants paired with a delightful Robert Kaufman indigo Prairie Essex linen/cotton blend from Hawthorne Threads.

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Not only are they super easy to sew and wear, they’re also a perfect showpiece for my challis Paper Theory Olya Shirt (post here).

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Sewing notes:

  • This is modified size 12 (I adjusted the crotch length and waist-to-hip fit last year).
  • No pockets! This print is two busy to add them as a design element.
  • I used a 2″ waistband fold, and a 2″ hem allowance.
  • Essex is only 43″ wide, and I used most of 3 yards. In a wider fabric, 55″ or more, I use 2.5 yards for these pants.

More pics…

 

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I want more, the print has me jazzed! BTW, if you’re interested in Essex blend fabrics, check out Hawthorne Threads for a huge selection.

Bye for now, Coco

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit!

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I am totally in love with this pattern!!

It’s the recently released Zadie Jumpsuit, and it’s wonderful. Check this out – no zippers or buttons. Umm. No struggling to drop trou trousers ๐Ÿ™‚

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I cannot say how much I like this, and how much I enjoyed sewing it. Tara’s drafting and instructions are impeccable.

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Fabric: Rusty Red/Plum/Cerulean/Multi Linen/Cotton Dotted Leaves, Fabric Mart

Rave on…but sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 8 (I’m 33.5 – 29 – 38, and 5′ 6.5″). I made no changes to the length of the bodice or pants.
  • I used 3 yards of 58″ wide fabric, with a 12″ vertical repeat. This fabric did shrink a little bit with my pre-laundering.
  • I drafted my tissue with a 1/2″ seam allowance everywhere. I’m just wary of sewing woven fabric with the included 1 cm allowance.
  • I was a little concerned about the binding on the neckline and pant crossover, and I noticed that the two examples (one gold, one blue) on the pattern site had different treatments. I asked Tara if the blue version was faced, instead of bound. She said ‘yes’, because the blue denim was just too bulky for binding. In the end, I did bind my edges, and also my sleeves (to match and because it’s a nice finish). BTW, I think drafting the facings would be fairly straightforward, but the pattern doesn’t include the option.
  • A tip on binding that beautiful curve from the bodice into the pant crossover. Take the time to do it right ๐Ÿ™‚ and you’ll have a nice result. Stretch the binding in the convex curve, clip out the seam allowance, turn, fold, and voila.

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More pics.

It’s so easy to get in and out of this jumpsuit. Miss Modesty here.

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I want about 5 more of these – I think the Zadie will be my spring and summer staple, to include a couple short ones. I tucked up one leg and tried to give an idea of how very cute the pattern would be in a shorter length.

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Last note: Tara suggests this for advanced beginners. IMHO, it would be a good stretch pattern at that level.

Love love love it, looking for more fabric, of course. Ciao! Coco