Love this pants pattern…the fit, the waist, the pockets, the wide legs. Everything!
Not a great pic, so bad in fact that this morning I made myself study the info for my camera – how to take an inside shot. It really helped (there are a couple more ‘old’ setting pics in this post, but the newer ones are much better).
Back to the pants!
Mine are View D – long, wide, belt loops included, and deep hem. I also made the sash, but no photo here. I like it, but it’s a little fussy for casual wear. All my pics here have a 2″ wide belt.
These are truly wide legs. But in my linen fabric they feel wonderful. Sassy.
Great paper bag effect. As I mentioned in my post on my muslin (here), this look is like going home to the 80’s.
I made a straight size 12 (5’7″ and 130 lbs, 34″ hips, 30″ waist).
I added 2.5″ to the length, and later realized that View D has a 6″ hem allowance! I actually cut off 6″ and used a 2.5″ hem. Next time, I’ll save my fabric…
I think McCalls has tried to make this an ‘easy’ pattern. The zipper. Here’s how it looks per their instructions (which are quite good and well-illustrated ). Since both fronts have cut-on extensions, the resultant zipper is very finished without added bulk:
I cannot wear a zipper and its associated hardware next to my skin. So I added a fly shield. This is not hard, and there’s lots of help available online, for adding this step-up feature. If you think you might want to use one, just plan ahead in your zipper construction.
Let’s talk basting. I love love to baste stuff – stitching lines, detail lines, seams. I just take out my long quilters basting needle and go to it. For these pants, which feature 8 pleats in the waistline area, I marked my pieces with chalk and a tracing wheel, and then used a long loose stitch on my machine to cement those critical lines. In a contrast color of course!
The instructions are good, but don’t include basics like interfacing (the zipper extensions, the pocket edges) or that zipper essential, bar tacks. I added the latter. They secure the fly shield and the bottom of the zipper opening. Again, online research can help anyone not familiar with finishing a zipper:
And, my belt loop secret. I cannot stand it when my belt buckle slips up and my pants slip down, right there in the middle of my britches! So I add a fourth belt loop in the front, spaced so that there’s room for the buckle.
Don’t’ hesitate – just do it 🙂
The fabric. It’s 100% linen from Fabric Mart. Dense black color with nice slubs. First wash: I had black ‘thingies’ all inside the washer and a lot of lint in the dryer. This is predictable for linen, most of the shrinkage and lint come with the first wash. Second wash, it was stable, and I was ready to work with it. Because I used chalk to mark details and notches, and because I know fabric can relax during sewing, I washed the pants again before I hemmed them. I LOVE this linen. It’s soft and rumpled, but not wrinkled. Wonderful fabric.
Such fun pants, a great fit, and a lovely design. I know these are very trendy in the slim capri look (views B and C), but I doubt I’ll go there. I like the swish of wide-leg pants. How cute are these for summer…
I was an avid fan of bag-waist pants and shorts back in the 80’s. Remember the ones in washed denim? Well, I still love them, and I’m so happy to find this pattern from McCalls.
Honestly, I never considered wearing these with any kind of sash, so the picture above is my only nod to that part of the pattern (it would be very pretty for some occasions).
This pattern is fully loaded! but the line art is not intuitive.
Views A and D:
These are the wider version from my past.
The pleats are open above the waist area, which gives that paper bag effect.
Views B and C:
These are a classic slim cut,
And the pleats are closed all the way to the top, which gives a fitted high-waist effect.
My muslin is View A/D, cut to the knee so that I could see the fit through the rise and hipline.
I cut a straight size 12.
My only adjustment was to release the front pleats just a little. Since I’ll wear these with a belt, leaving a little ease in the waist works really well. Since the pleats are the last step in construction, this fit adjustment is a piece of cake.
Be sure to mark all the notches and circles on the pattern. You’ll need them!
And I recommend following the instruction to baste or thread trace the pleat lines, or you might lose your sanity trying to sew straight pleats.
A tip: mark the pleat lines on the right side of your fabric, not the inside. The very deep waistline facing would cover any markings on the inside.
Here a few closeups of the waist and pocket details. Not the best photos, but I tried to show the stitching and so on.
Making these will be fun, and I’m scouting for some of that soft washed denim.
Every once in a while (usually Jungle January time), I start craving a bit of animal print in my wardrobe. I ordered this cotton/lycra leopard sateen from Fabric Mart in December, and I had a good laugh when it arrived. I had sewn it before!
The stretch sateen is a perfect weight for these pants, Vogue 9217.
I’ve sewn these pants 5 times now, and as usual made just a couple tweaks. Every fabric is different, and so am I after losing a lot of weight.
I took 3/4″ from the side seams, back and front, at the hip curve.
And took about 1/2″ out of the curve in the back rise.
Because I used a straight hem and wanted a longer length, I added 3″ to the hem allowance.
For the topper, I looked through all my patterns for something that would tuck nicely and be a little form-fitting. The Lark Tee is perfect, and, strangely, I haven’t sewn it since I made the cardigan variation a couple years ago (post here).
This is my first Tee version, and, gosh, I really like it! I used the crew neck version, top left in the line art, with long sleeves.
I made just a few adjustments, but nothing extraordinary:
The tee has 1/4″ seam allowances (read that as use a serger). Because I do flat-felled shoulders on all my garments to make them comfortable, I added 3/8″ to the shoulder seams.
I didn’t use the neck band, opting for binding instead. I just like it better.
I knew from sewing the cardi that the sleeve pattern is a bit short for me, so I added 1″ to the length.
And the tee is long! I raised the hem by 3 1/4″ – tucked in, it finishes midway down my hip.
Here are a couple pics with my black batwing tee, M6203 (post here). I think I like black more than white with these pants.
I’ve never used this fabric before, mostly because it just sounds warm. Actually, it’s really similar to poly/lycra ITY knit – smooth, thin hand, nice drape, and no wrinkles.
It seemed perfect for a pair of Love Notions Sabrina Slim, my favorite legging pattern (here).
For this pair, I went down a size, to a 12. If I went by my measurements, I would use size 10, but I don’t wear skin-tight pants, so the 12 is perfect.
I’m also wearing one of my favorite tops, New Look 6323. It has the prettiest back…
As with my previous versions, I modified the leggings to drop straight down from just above the knee. This prevents any twist in the lower leg, and I just like the way it looks. I also added 1″ to the 30″ hem line.
One of the nicest features of this pattern is the wide (2″) contour waistband. Beautiful fit.
Some thoughts on using 2″ elastic:
I use knit elastic, which I order in 12 yd rolls from Wawak (here). I love knit elastic! It lays flat when it’s stretched, and it can be trimmed to a more narrow width with no raveling or fraying. This roll is a great bargain, compared to small yardage packs.
I leave the waistband facing seam open, and insert the elastic there, after the entire band is serged to the pants. BTW, this is how I insert elastic for everything.
Bottom line: IMO, this is great fabric – it’s washes beautifully, is easy to sew, and has vibrant color. And it’s no warmer than, e.g., ITY knit 🙂