Tessuti Margot Pants

I’m in love with these pants! and I owe mine to Angela at ‘Collected Yarns’. I recently came across a pic she posted on IG, and I immediately ordered the pattern. Subsequent research yielded no reviews of the pattern, so I knew I was in for some fun.

I think the ankle ties are great – a bit eccentric, a little funky 🙂

Fabric: Kaufman Essex linen in natural, Fabric.com. Top: Ogden cami in Kaufman Brussels Washer linen, also Fabric.com

Sewing notes:

  • I thought the sizing was tricky. A sizing chart is provided, but it doesn’t indicate if the measurements are one’s bod or the finished garment. In the end, after measuring several sizes on the pattern, I drafted the size Small.
  • My major adjustments were to the crotch and rise. I know I need a 27″ crotch (back 15.5″, front 11.5″), and I routinely flatten the back crotch to match my flat backside and avoid bunching in that area. BTW, the waistline is very scooped, high in the back and low in the front. My changes leveled it, and it sits at my natural waistline.
  • I’m 5’7 1/2″ tall and the length is perfect on me. The size Small has a 36″ outseam, so I recommend caution before cutting the ankle tie detail!
  • The pattern has no pockets! so I added single-layer pockets to the fronts. They’re sewn into the waist and side seams, and are super easy to do. (I’m not fond of in-seam pockets on pants…).


I hope this finds you well and looking forward to a nice weekend.

Bye for now – Coco

From dress to pedal pushers

It was time to recycle a couple dresses that I sewed last September, but never wore. For some reason, the sleeves and bodice kept slipping backwards, which was really annoying!

McCalls 7969, blogged here.

Enter new pants based on the Burda 6250 pull-on cargo pants, size 38. I just shortened the pants to fit the fabric salvaged from the skirt of the dress.

Fabric from JoAnns..

A second dress, same pattern, was also transformed to pants 🙂

To be really sporty, I’ll just call these board shorts – who wears pedal pushers these days?

Ciao! Coco

Butterick 5504 linen pants

OK, setting a record, 2 posts in 2 days. But you guys are the best, all the comments, best wishes, and virtual hugs on my last post…right back at you. It really made realize that I’m not the only one trying to redefine my life to things as they are. You’re great.

The pants I mentioned on my post are these, a pattern I love, taken to a full length.

The fit is so nice, even in the back, with the elastic waist. Sewing notes:

  • These are a straight size Medium, with 6″ added for the longer length.
  • The fabric is Robert Kaufman Essex yarn-dyed linen in taupe. Yes, it’s very gold, not taupe at all.
  • I turned the waistband 2″, instead of 1 5/8″, to raise the crotch a tad. I’m 5′ 7.5″, and found I needed this adjustment. A happy change, since my 1 1/4″ non-roll elastic fits perfectly in the casing. BTW, the pattern calls for a drawstring, not elastic, but front-tied drawstrings are not my style 🙂
  • On the inside, I serged all my seams, it makes for such a nice finish on linen.
  • I double-stitch and serge all my crotch seams, woven or knit. If you open the crotch curve as you serge, you’ll get all the flexibility you need in the seam.

Cute pattern! I love the pockets, just a little different and so very easy to sew.

So, a sneak peek at the jacket that goes-with, my next blog post. Ciao! Coco

Yari jumpsuit recycle

To open, I love the True Bias Yari jumpsuit. Unfortunately, mine, size 8, is just too big on me. Since I used a lovely Kaufman expresso yarn-dyed linen, I’ve taken the plunge (after months and months) and recycled it.

Pants! I cut the pattern below the second button and went from there. Since the crotch was very low on me, I raised the pants and lowered the hem for a better fit.

I folded the top a couple inches to form a cut-on waistband and added 7 belt carriers.


Perfect 🙂

Parting shot: I have an unusual tree in my back yard, a tapioca – Manihot esculenta – aka cassava. It was trimmed along with my mandarin tree last fall, but my understanding is that it simply grows with abandon if not harvested for its roots. And it seems to enjoy the partial shade of the back corner of the yard. It is blooming like crazy, small, pretty blossoms, and it’s about 20′ high. Check out those leaves, so unique.

The Green Garden Girls came over yesterday with a plan for the front yard. Beautiful, I’m so excited. It combines tropical lush with bungalow charm.

Next up – not sure, I think I’ll finish my Cheetah Moon harem pants and just think about the challis in the stash. BTW, I do plan another Yari, I think with short sleeves like an aviator jumpsuit! Future…

Feeling blessed – Coco

Hot hot hot and harem pants

It’s so hot outside, 93 degrees for a couple days. I don’t really mind, but I also don’t feel like wearing a bunch of fabric, such as a maxi dress. Truth is, I need to replace my entire AC system, air handler (16 years old) and compressor (10 years old). I knew this when I bought the house, and I’m ready now that we are into summer weather. The system struggles, runs all day, to maintain 79 degrees in the house (I have lots of fans). Only the lockdown has kept me from doing it – come June and these boogies are getting replaced!!

Enter my new challis Pattern Emporium Harem pants, always a favorite. I’m also wearing a lightweight True Bias Ogden cami, a button variation. As an aside, I just don’t feel like hiding anything, so my skin is here in all its scarred and scleroderma ‘patterned’ and irregular glory 🙂 It’s kind of cathartic to do this, and my buddy alligator has my back. It has been 10 long years…

Sewing notes:

  • I am still sewing the size 12 in the pants, but I’ve taken quite a bit out of the sides. I suppose I could size down, but now my tissue works, so I won’t bother 🙂
  • My cami is size 4. I drafted the button variation early on, but I think that Kelli has a tutorial on how to do this.
  • Fabric: Rifle Co. Wonderland Blue Magic Forest. The cami is simple broadcloth.
  • As a note, I’m 5’7″, measurements 33.5″/29″/39″. I hope this helpful. I myself get so frustrated when I research reviews and pics of a pattern and have no idea of how it really fits – few sewists include the info.

Play time:

I am thinking of all my blog friends, every one, and hope you are finding grace and faith, these are such unfamiliar times. For now, Coco

Style Arc Barb Pants

It’s always gratifying to conquer a fear! Other than leggings, I’ve avoided taking on slim pants. There are so many considerations and fitting points – bum, thighs, rise – and challenge of finding just the right fabric.

I always enjoy the variety of patterns offered by Style Arc and their availabity in PDF format. While cruising patterns on Pinterest, the Barb pants caught my eye. Research disclosed that I’m way behind the times – this pattern was among the ‘best of 2015’ on Pattern Review! Curiously, I found I actually had this pattern languishing on my computer. I apparently received it at no cost when I signed up for the Style Arc newsletter. And this promotion is still active on their Facebook page!

Style Arc recommends stretch bengaline, a fabric with which I was unfamiliar. It was a bit difficult to source, but I found it at FabricGenie in a wide range of colors. It’s really nice! AKA faille (which I’ve sewn in a cotton blend with much wider ribs), it has minimal vertical stretch. Style Arc makes a point of reminding the sewist of the latter, so that a pattern is cut with the stretch in the needed direction.

Sewing notes:

  • My primary change was to raise the waistband to my natural waist. I just don’t like elastic waistbands in low rise pants. It was as easy as adding 1 1/4″ to the front and back rise using the convenient lengthen/shorten line on the pattern.
  • Reduced the curve in the crotch. The latter accomodates my flat-ish fantail and prevents wrinkles across the back side of the pants.
  • Lifted the waistline at center front by 3/8″.
  • Based on the width of my upper thigh, mid-thigh, and calves, I also added 1/2″ to the front and back side seams.

What a great fit! and so comfortable. I have more of this fabric, and I know exactly where it will go. Black slacks and blue jeans – my favorites.

Jacket, V6144 Kathryn Brenne, post here

Parting note, my camera is fading away on me 😦  It’s about 10 years old, is not fancy, and has been used in heat and humidity. Annoying, so it’s time for a new one.

I hope you are well, bye for now, Coco

Pattern Fantastique Terra variation

OK, I’m feeling playful. And adventurous. I love the fit on the Terra pants, waist, hips, backside, frontside – so I decided to make a version with straight legs v.s. the pattern’s curved outseam.

Cute, right?

This should have been a ‘no-brainer’, but of course I had to delve deeply into the draft of the legs. I started by dropping the side seams straight down from the bottom of the pocket, and I ended up with voluminous legs. Hmmm. Slept on that, and this afternoon pulled out Butterick 5504, a great capri pattern, and used its dimensions as a guide.

I’m glad for more than just the measurements, because I’m thinking I need to make these pants again. I last sewed this pattern years ago. And I have some lovely black stretch bengaline that would be perfect.

In the end, my draft was pretty simple. Based on B5504, I dropped the outseam below the pocket for a final leg width of 24.5″ at the bottom. I made no changes to the inseam or elsewhere.

Fabric: Kaufman yarn-dyed Essex in black, Fabric.com

How is everyone doing? I’m grateful for a hobby and lifestyle that are not hugely impacted by all the restrictions in place. But I will admit I don’t sleep very well, I am concerned for my family, who are not so easily isolated, and of course I cut my hair.

Warm thoughts to all, Coco