Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit therapy…

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This week I’ve been so taken up with meetings with my realtor, and today, photographers, for my house listing. Somehow I’ve managed to keeping sewing and playing with patterns.

I’m so in love with this pattern from Paper Theory:

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I’ve already worn my first version (here) so many times, it’s such an easy garment to wear. Throw it on and it works. This second version is (again) in a cotton/linen woven from Fabric Mart. The weight and hand are perfect for a jumpsuit. And it’s a pleasure to sew this fabric.

Pics follow, and they speak for themselves. Sewing notes – check out my first version, this one is the same. Except: After my post on the first version, I took up the hemline by 1.5″. I like the somewhat shorter length.

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It’s so weird to take photos in the loft without all my usual things in place. It feels almost sterile! but I’ll admit it a lot easier to photograph against a white background rather then the Hot Moon paint of days past. My closets are crammed with pics and artwork that were removed for the staging and so on. But they’ll be back eventually.

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IMHO a print fabric really works with this pattern. Just for fun (you know what that means), I’m cutting out another one in a larger print. I’m really not inclined to do it in a solid color. But…if I were to do it in a solid, it would be Kaufman Essex linen, not anything drapey or loose, such as silk, crepe, or satin (some of the suggested fabrics). Maybe a jacquard chambray. It needs some weight and structure in the fabric.

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I look fairly put together, right? My house listing will be online on Friday, I’m kind of (very) excited about that.

Parting note: In the middle of all this, I’m being treated for a shortened/thickened sacrotuberous ligament in my left hip saddle. So painful, and my left leg is/was about 1/2″ shorter than my right leg. I’ve been limping, and my right knee was taking a beating. I’m having physical therapy twice a week now and doing my exercises every day. Cause? who knows…osteoarthritis, osteoporosis, scleroderma, age, a combination. My mom had this at about my age and did not seek any help at all. Eventually her spine collapsed in a J on her left hip, and she ended up 4″ shorter, with titanium rods in her spine and a short left leg that could not be fixed. I mention this because perhaps it will help someone else to make the decision to address a similar health issue. We need to help ourselves.

Bye for now – Coco

Paper Theory Olya shirt version 2!

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This is becoming a love story – I’m enjoying my first challis Olya so much that I quickly started work on a second one.

Delightful pattern, impeccable drafting:

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Just to mix things up a bit (more), I chose a printed challis for this one. Yes, I spent ages matching the print and deciding which pattern and color elements should go where 🙂

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Fabric: Fabric.com – beautiful selection of solid and print challis

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I love the shirttail hem, it’s not exaggerated and just goes with the flow of the shirt.

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Sewing notes, no changes from my first version, but a recap:

  • I drafted the size 8, with 1/2″ seam allowances instead of the included 3/8″ SA.
  • The sleeve:
    • I added 1/2″ to the length.
    • Instead of a buttoned cuff, I used a 2″ wide band, using the cuff pattern but sewn closed to width and attached.
    • I also gathered my sleeve into the band – no pleats.
  • The neckline and collar:
    • My front neckline, collar stand, and collar are drafted from the Named Saraste blouse pattern.
    • The collar is softer, larger, and about 1″ lower in front than the Olya pattern.

collar

  • Once again, no front pockets! I simply closed the entire bodice seam.
  • I added 1″ to the width of the back lower bodice and gathered it into the yoke – no pleats.
  • Challis is fairly translucent, so I underlined the plackets, cuff, collar stand, and collar with white broadcloth to prevent print shadows. BTW, here’s a succinct and helpful guide to some potentially confusing sewing terms: interfacing, lining, interlining, and underlining.
  • The yoke is also faced in white broadcloth, same reasoning.

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I love this shirt tucked into jeans!

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An aside: I recently posted pics of a new dress on Instagram (you can click on the IGram icon in my sidebar). It’s my True Bias Nikko top/McCall 6559 combo (blog post here). And I received a wonderful compliment on the way into the grocery this morning 🙂

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Ciao! Coco

Summer pants in Kaufman Essex linen

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Back to my favorites – Vogue 8584 wide-leg pants paired with a delightful Robert Kaufman indigo Prairie Essex linen/cotton blend from Hawthorne Threads.

V8584 lines

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Not only are they super easy to sew and wear, they’re also a perfect showpiece for my challis Paper Theory Olya Shirt (post here).

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Sewing notes:

  • This is modified size 12 (I adjusted the crotch length and waist-to-hip fit last year).
  • No pockets! This print is two busy to add them as a design element.
  • I used a 2″ waistband fold, and a 2″ hem allowance.
  • Essex is only 43″ wide, and I used most of 3 yards. In a wider fabric, 55″ or more, I use 2.5 yards for these pants.

More pics…

 

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I want more, the print has me jazzed! BTW, if you’re interested in Essex blend fabrics, check out Hawthorne Threads for a huge selection.

Bye for now, Coco

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit!

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I am totally in love with this pattern!!

It’s the recently released Zadie Jumpsuit, and it’s wonderful. Check this out – no zippers or buttons. Umm. No struggling to drop trou trousers 🙂

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I cannot say how much I like this, and how much I enjoyed sewing it. Tara’s drafting and instructions are impeccable.

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Fabric: Rusty Red/Plum/Cerulean/Multi Linen/Cotton Dotted Leaves, Fabric Mart

Rave on…but sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 8 (I’m 33.5 – 29 – 38, and 5′ 6.5″). I made no changes to the length of the bodice or pants.
  • I used 3 yards of 58″ wide fabric, with a 12″ vertical repeat. This fabric did shrink a little bit with my pre-laundering.
  • I drafted my tissue with a 1/2″ seam allowance everywhere. I’m just wary of sewing woven fabric with the included 1 cm allowance.
  • I was a little concerned about the binding on the neckline and pant crossover, and I noticed that the two examples (one gold, one blue) on the pattern site had different treatments. I asked Tara if the blue version was faced, instead of bound. She said ‘yes’, because the blue denim was just too bulky for binding. In the end, I did bind my edges, and also my sleeves (to match and because it’s a nice finish). BTW, I think drafting the facings would be fairly straightforward, but the pattern doesn’t include the option.
  • A tip on binding that beautiful curve from the bodice into the pant crossover. Take the time to do it right 🙂 and you’ll have a nice result. Stretch the binding in the convex curve, clip out the seam allowance, turn, fold, and voila.

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More pics.

It’s so easy to get in and out of this jumpsuit. Miss Modesty here.

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I want about 5 more of these – I think the Zadie will be my spring and summer staple, to include a couple short ones. I tucked up one leg and tried to give an idea of how very cute the pattern would be in a shorter length.

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Last note: Tara suggests this for advanced beginners. IMHO, it would be a good stretch pattern at that level.

Love love love it, looking for more fabric, of course. Ciao! Coco

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit in progress

layout Quick post! My Zadie jumpsuit pattern is drafted and ready for layout.

Aargh…I really don’t enjoy doing a flat layout on fabric (instead of folding the fabric and cutting two at a time).

But I tell myself it’s all part of sewing 🙂

 

I really really want to wear this on Tuesday, an appointment. I’m Watching April the giraffe, Animal Adventure Park, on YouTube, and Deepwater Horizon on the TV for company.

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Pattern link

This fabric has a fairly short vertical repeat, which helps. And I always order extra yardage for anything that will need print matching.

Zadie fabric
Linen/cotton woven, FabricMart

This is keeping me out of trouble if nothing else! Ciao – Coco

A summer robe – S1946

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My house is so destroyed with pre-move fix-ups that I have nowhere to model this robe.

Plus – OK, I’m distracted, busy, working with my fix-up helper.

In the middle of all this, I decided to make a new robe. My go-to terry robe is really irritating my neck. Can you believe it?! It’s the loops on the terry cloth.

Serendipity. I ordered a couple yards of this pretty double brushed poly spandex from Fabric Mart for a cardigan. And they sent me 3 yards, the end of bolt gift. Wow. All of a sudden, this fabric just had to be a robe.

Simplicity 1946 is the only robe pattern I use now. A couple reasons: It comes in sizes for the entire family, and it does not have an attached front band. The front is faced, which means it’s so easy to sew.

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Of course I’m always challenging myself. The pattern is for woven fabrics, but I decided to use a knit.

Sewing notes:

  • I used the size Small Adult. Fits great.
  • I spent about an hour working with stitch lengths, tension, and so on, on both my sewing machine and my serger. I don’t just serge knit seams, I prefer to stitch and then serge to finish the seam allowances. Reason? Straight stitching adds both structure and weight to a knit seam. I like it.
  • Tip on the hem finishing: you can clip the side seam allowance at the hem turn line,  spread it open, and avoid the bulk of turning a serged side seam!
  • Those pockets: I staystich the sewing lines, press, and baste the pockets in place. For both knits and wovens. I love quilters basting needles! BTW – dbl brushed poly loves to be pressed, light steam, I use my silk setting and a calico pressing cloth.

pkt prep

  • This is a pic of my favorite presser foot. It’s a quarter-inch foot, and it’s constructed to guide 1/8″ and 1/6″ stitching as well. I’ve tried to find it online, cannot, so I sleep with it under my pillow.

favorite foot

  • Washi tape is so nice for making a topstitching guide, in this case 1 3/4″.

washi tape

  • Happiness – I didn’t run out of thread. I often order matching thread from Fabric Mart, they always select a great color. It’s much easier than running to JoAnn (which is not near me) with a swatch.

last of thread

I love this robe! I Intend to wear it all the time while I get ready to move. It’s calm 🙂

Parting shot: the loft is ready to be painted. Barren. But the printer is online, and I’m printing the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit right now!!

ready

Ciao – Coco

Olya Shirt and a little romance

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I was thinking of the line from Moonstruck the entire time I was sewing this. ‘Isn’t it romantic?’…

Actually, I purchased this rayon challis from Cali Fabrics at the same time I purchased the Paper Theory Olya Shirt pattern, with a soft blouse in mind.

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I’m so glad I did a muslin (here), because I was able to draft my vision of the blouse based on that experience.

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Lots of sewing notes:

  • As before I started with the size 8, and 1/2″ seam allowances. But I did not add to the length. I thought my muslin was a bit stuffy with the additional 2″.
  • The sleeve:
    • I added 1/2″ to the length and decided to add a little detail by splitting the lower sleeve and adding some topstitching.
    • Instead of a buttoned cuff, I used a 2″ wide band, using the same cuff pattern but sewn closed to width and attached.
    • I also gathered my sleeve into the band – no pleats.

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  • The neckline and collar:
    • Honestly, I felt strangled by the original collar – it’s very high and tight. Plus I thought it made my large head look huge!
    • I drafted a new front neckline, collar stand, and collar using the Named Saraste blouse pattern (my version here).
    • The collar is softer, larger, and about 1″ lower than the original pattern.
  • No pockets! To say they were shifty and difficult to attach is an understatement. I removed mine and simply closed the seam.

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  • Last little romantic change: I added 1″ to the width of the back skirt and gathered it into the yoke.

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  • Little things:

Sewing a curved hem can be a challenge at the side seam. I staystitched my hem at 3/4″, to provide a stable guide for the turn. And I released the side seam inside the hem to allow for a no-pucker finish. Alternatively, one could redraft the hem allowance to provide that extra bit.

collage hem

I’m crazy for nice finishing detail. A peek at how I attach a button – started on the right side, finished on the inside with the tail brought back up under the button and clipped. IMHO, sloppy button stitches on the inside of the placket are a tell.

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An inspiration pic – I’m always cruising for ideas.

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And some styling – unbuttoned and simply open over a cami (imagine over a print spring dress).

unbuttoned.jpg]over shirt

Last thoughts…

Challis is a real beast challenge when sewn into structured details! It cannot be pressed without care, since it’s happy to shift and expand. Challis also has a huge amount of mechanical and bias stretch. No way would I use a fusible interfacing, because it puckers the challis and loses the original shape of the pattern piece. And, BTW, the adhesive on a fusible is likely to go through challis onto the plate of an iron. Aack! I cut my interfacing in a poly/cotton broadcloth and used it to interline the button plackets, collar stand, collar, and cuffs. I steam pressed the challis back into shape on the interlining pieces.

I launder all my fabrics before I use them, with serging on the cut ends of wovens. Rayon will shrink significantly, so a pre-wash will preclude disappointment in one’s garment.

I love this pattern. It’s complex and fun to sew. I’m really glad I did a muslin, because the resulting ‘muscle memory’ was very helpful in this version. The drafting and instructions are wonderful – this is a real winner from Paper Theory. I’ll make it again!

Bye for now – Coco