Paper Theory delightful Olya Shirt

buttoned

What an interesting and unique pattern! The drafting was so tempting, the most expensive pattern I’ve ever purchased, and it’s worth it. I worked on this for 5 days and enjoyed every minute!

collage pattern

I knew I would make a muslin, and I decided to use several fabrics to highlight the drafting and aid in any fitting I might want to do.

contrast

b2

I also used white thread everywhere, so I could see the construction more easily. In the end, I have a funky and fun shirt 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 8, with 2″ added to the length of the bodice and front placket.
  • The pattern includes 1 cm seam allowances. No way. I drafted my tissue with 1/2″ SA’s.
  • The sleeve is much easier to sew than I anticipated. It was a little short for me, so I added 1/2″ in the cuff. Next version, I’ll just add to the length of the sleeve.

spread f

spread b

  • I used white broadcloth for my pocket bags to prevent print shadows. A tip: work with the pocket topstitching from the right side of the shirt, first marking two same-sized outlines. I guarantee the pocket bags will not be the same size if stitched from the inside.
  • Buttonholes – The inside of the top buttonholes will show when the collar is open, so they need to be pretty on both sides. A little practice on an interfaced remnant, with adjustments to the stitch width and length settings, is really helpful.

collage buttonholes

  • Collar angst…I used the pattern’s suggested construction technique and failed miserably (it finishes the collar stand/front placket area with a ‘burrito’ method). I took it apart and spent several hours making repairs (those 1/2″ seam allowances were much appreciated). Won’t do that again.
Screen Shot 2019-02-25 at 1.11.39 PM
From the instruction set.
  • A template for stitching the collar stand curve:

template

  • I’ve been playing with labels on the Dutch Labels website and made a small purchase so I can understand the fabric, size, options, and stitching. This is not the version I’ll order, but it’s a good test. I sewed it at the bottom of my front placket, since I cannot wear tags in my clothing. I like this!

label

Amazing pattern.

seat1

Ciao! Coco