A summer robe – S1946

emile

My house is so destroyed with pre-move fix-ups that I have nowhere to model this robe.

Plus – OK, I’m distracted, busy, working with my fix-up helper.

In the middle of all this, I decided to make a new robe. My go-to terry robe is really irritating my neck. Can you believe it?! It’s the loops on the terry cloth.

Serendipity. I ordered a couple yards of this pretty double brushed poly spandex from Fabric Mart for a cardigan. And they sent me 3 yards, the end of bolt gift. Wow. All of a sudden, this fabric just had to be a robe.

Simplicity 1946 is the only robe pattern I use now. A couple reasons: It comes in sizes for the entire family, and it does not have an attached front band. The front is faced, which means it’s so easy to sew.

collage

Of course I’m always challenging myself. The pattern is for woven fabrics, but I decided to use a knit.

Sewing notes:

  • I used the size Small Adult. Fits great.
  • I spent about an hour working with stitch lengths, tension, and so on, on both my sewing machine and my serger. I don’t just serge knit seams, I prefer to stitch and then serge to finish the seam allowances. Reason? Straight stitching adds both structure and weight to a knit seam. I like it.
  • Tip on the hem finishing: you can clip the side seam allowance at the hem turn line,  spread it open, and avoid the bulk of turning a serged side seam!
  • Those pockets: I staystich the sewing lines, press, and baste the pockets in place. For both knits and wovens. I love quilters basting needles! BTW – dbl brushed poly loves to be pressed, light steam, I use my silk setting and a calico pressing cloth.

pkt prep

  • This is a pic of my favorite presser foot. It’s a quarter-inch foot, and it’s constructed to guide 1/8″ and 1/6″ stitching as well. I’ve tried to find it online, cannot, so I sleep with it under my pillow.

favorite foot

  • Washi tape is so nice for making a topstitching guide, in this case 1 3/4″.

washi tape

  • Happiness – I didn’t run out of thread. I often order matching thread from Fabric Mart, they always select a great color. It’s much easier than running to JoAnn (which is not near me) with a swatch.

last of thread

I love this robe! I Intend to wear it all the time while I get ready to move. It’s calm 🙂

Parting shot: the loft is ready to be painted. Barren. But the printer is online, and I’m printing the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit right now!!

ready

Ciao – Coco

Olya Shirt and a little romance

c1

I was thinking of the line from Moonstruck the entire time I was sewing this. ‘Isn’t it romantic?’…

Actually, I purchased this rayon challis from Cali Fabrics at the same time I purchased the Paper Theory Olya Shirt pattern, with a soft blouse in mind.

collage pattern

I’m so glad I did a muslin (here), because I was able to draft my vision of the blouse based on that experience.

f0

b1

Lots of sewing notes:

  • As before I started with the size 8, and 1/2″ seam allowances. But I did not add to the length. I thought my muslin was a bit stuffy with the additional 2″.
  • The sleeve:
    • I added 1/2″ to the length and decided to add a little detail by splitting the lower sleeve and adding some topstitching.
    • Instead of a buttoned cuff, I used a 2″ wide band, using the same cuff pattern but sewn closed to width and attached.
    • I also gathered my sleeve into the band – no pleats.

s1

  • The neckline and collar:
    • Honestly, I felt strangled by the original collar – it’s very high and tight. Plus I thought it made my large head look huge!
    • I drafted a new front neckline, collar stand, and collar using the Named Saraste blouse pattern (my version here).
    • The collar is softer, larger, and about 1″ lower than the original pattern.
  • No pockets! To say they were shifty and difficult to attach is an understatement. I removed mine and simply closed the seam.

e1

  • Last little romantic change: I added 1″ to the width of the back skirt and gathered it into the yoke.

e2

  • Little things:

Sewing a curved hem can be a challenge at the side seam. I staystitched my hem at 3/4″, to provide a stable guide for the turn. And I released the side seam inside the hem to allow for a no-pucker finish. Alternatively, one could redraft the hem allowance to provide that extra bit.

collage hem

I’m crazy for nice finishing detail. A peek at how I attach a button – started on the right side, finished on the inside with the tail brought back up under the button and clipped. IMHO, sloppy button stitches on the inside of the placket are a tell.

collage buttons

An inspiration pic – I’m always cruising for ideas.

inspiration

And some styling – unbuttoned and simply open over a cami (imagine over a print spring dress).

unbuttoned.jpg]over shirt

Last thoughts…

Challis is a real beast challenge when sewn into structured details! It cannot be pressed without care, since it’s happy to shift and expand. Challis also has a huge amount of mechanical and bias stretch. No way would I use a fusible interfacing, because it puckers the challis and loses the original shape of the pattern piece. And, BTW, the adhesive on a fusible is likely to go through challis onto the plate of an iron. Aack! I cut my interfacing in a poly/cotton broadcloth and used it to interline the button plackets, collar stand, collar, and cuffs. I steam pressed the challis back into shape on the interlining pieces.

I launder all my fabrics before I use them, with serging on the cut ends of wovens. Rayon will shrink significantly, so a pre-wash will preclude disappointment in one’s garment.

I love this pattern. It’s complex and fun to sew. I’m really glad I did a muslin, because the resulting ‘muscle memory’ was very helpful in this version. The drafting and instructions are wonderful – this is a real winner from Paper Theory. I’ll make it again!

Bye for now – Coco

 

Paper Theory delightful Olya Shirt

buttoned

What an interesting and unique pattern! The drafting was so tempting, the most expensive pattern I’ve ever purchased, and it’s worth it. I worked on this for 5 days and enjoyed every minute!

collage pattern

I knew I would make a muslin, and I decided to use several fabrics to highlight the drafting and aid in any fitting I might want to do.

contrast

b2

I also used white thread everywhere, so I could see the construction more easily. In the end, I have a funky and fun shirt 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 8, with 2″ added to the length of the bodice and front placket.
  • The pattern includes 1 cm seam allowances. No way. I drafted my tissue with 1/2″ SA’s.
  • The sleeve is much easier to sew than I anticipated. It was a little short for me, so I added 1/2″ in the cuff. Next version, I’ll just add to the length of the sleeve.

spread f

spread b

  • I used white broadcloth for my pocket bags to prevent print shadows. A tip: work with the pocket topstitching from the right side of the shirt, first marking two same-sized outlines. I guarantee the pocket bags will not be the same size if stitched from the inside.
  • Buttonholes – The inside of the top buttonholes will show when the collar is open, so they need to be pretty on both sides. A little practice on an interfaced remnant, with adjustments to the stitch width and length settings, is really helpful.

collage buttonholes

  • Collar angst…I used the pattern’s suggested construction technique and failed miserably (it finishes the collar stand/front placket area with a ‘burrito’ method). I took it apart and spent several hours making repairs (those 1/2″ seam allowances were much appreciated). Won’t do that again.
Screen Shot 2019-02-25 at 1.11.39 PM
From the instruction set.
  • A template for stitching the collar stand curve:

template

  • I’ve been playing with labels on the Dutch Labels website and made a small purchase so I can understand the fabric, size, options, and stitching. This is not the version I’ll order, but it’s a good test. I sewed it at the bottom of my front placket, since I cannot wear tags in my clothing. I like this!

label

Amazing pattern.

seat1

Ciao! Coco