Goldmine – Atelier Saison blazer videos

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This is an incredible video series from Atelier Saison on sewing a lined structured jacket.

I’m making my first Republique du Chiffon Manteau Gerard, which is typically lined. It’s been a while since I sewed a lined jacket, so I went looking on YouTube for a refresher course. Wow. This 6-part series from Atelier Saison is simply stunning. From laying out fabrics, cutting them, jacket assembly, and finishing, it’s all covered. And I find that watching someone do it is a lot more helpful than reading a tutorial. I love that ‘pause’ button…

The topic is a beautiful classic woman’s jacket/blazer.

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This garment done in wool flannel with a very sheer fusible interfacing and ‘posh-like’ lining. The journey is fascinating. I learned so much! I’ve watched each session several times, checkpointing my own jacket construction and simply taking it all in. I was captivate by all the Technique, fabric manipulation, seam management, sequence of construction, and small steps that differentiate the end garment from something well-made to something beautifully made. Couture.

I would have been happy with the videos. But Atelier Saison takes it a step further and offers the pattern for free as a PDF download. This link includes info and links to each part of the series, as well as the download.

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The videos have no audio dialogue, but are captioned in both Japanese and English. They are very easy to understand and navigate. Bonus – each video includes a list of topics covered, in English.

E.g., Part 2:ย “Adjust cutting, Stick stay tape, Sew the lining”

  • Stick stay tape on front bodice
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  • Fold crease line on lapel
  • Stick stay tape on back bodice
  • Plain seam under collar and collar stand
  • Plain seam upper collar and collar stand
  • Seam opening upper collar and collar stand
  • Top-stitch (seam opening) upper collar and collar stand
  • Top-stitch (overlapped seam) under collar and collar stand
  • Plain seam upper and under collar
  • Cut seam allowance and Grading it
  • Seam opening the collar and turn it out
  • Plain seam front bodice and facing
  • Attach the collar to the lining bodice
  • Attach the collar to the main bodice
  • Cut & Slash the seam allowance of the edge of front and lapel, and collar
  • Staystitch the edge of front curve
  • Seam opening and overlapped seam the collar
  • Seam opening the edge of front lapel
  • Make the pattern of the part of curve
  • Press the edge of front curve
  • Turn the facing out and Press
  • Hand blind stitch the neckline
  • Hand blind stitch the lapel crease line

Hope you enjoy (and many thanks to Atelier Saison for a real gem). Coco

Sewing is hazardous!

sewing

 

I just managed to burn my thumb with my iron. Which got me to thinking about all the injuries incurred (or lurking) in a sewing room!

 

My short list:

  • Walking pins and needles into my feet (my sewing space is carpeted).
  • Having the iron sputter hot water and steam onto my hand (my fault, I lifted it before it was to temperature).
  • Sewing through my nail bed, twice! Very painful.
  • Scratching myself while pulling on a fitting garment with the pins on the inside. Duh.
  • Cutting into the web between my thumb and forefinger while trimming a seam.
  • Starting to sew with my finger under the side of the presser foot. Ouch. That thing came down like a hammer.

croc sewing machine

And you?! Coco

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit in progress

layoutย Quick post! My Zadie jumpsuit pattern is drafted and ready for layout.

Aargh…I really don’t enjoy doing a flat layout on fabric (instead of folding the fabric and cutting two at a time).

But I tell myself it’s all part of sewing ๐Ÿ™‚

 

I really really want to wear this on Tuesday, an appointment. I’m Watching April the giraffe, Animal Adventure Park, on YouTube, and Deepwater Horizon on the TV for company.

line art
Pattern link

This fabric has a fairly short vertical repeat, which helps. And I always order extra yardage for anything that will need print matching.

Zadie fabric
Linen/cotton woven, FabricMart

This is keeping me out of trouble if nothing else! Ciao – Coco

It’s my birthday month!

profile pic

The 28th of February (only 10 days away) is my birthday. I will be fully 71 years old. And I always indulge myself for my birthday ๐Ÿ™‚

I just ordered the Olya Shirt from Paper Theory, the most expensive pattern I’ve ever purchased. But I love the vibe and the back story. It will be wonderful over jeans.

Today, I also went for 5 fabrics from Cali Fabrics. And I’m on the hunt for more before the end of the month, lurking those Presidents Day sales. I was down to only one fabric in my stash! I really really need to remedy that… So 4 French terry knits and one rayon challis (for that beautiful shirt pattern).

To say I am grateful, blessed, happy – an understatement. Ciao – Coco

2018 Favorites!

charlie brown closet

I hadn’t planned to do this, but in the end, I found it very interesting.

The following is a pictorial of my favorite and most repeated patterns. Each has a link to my original post.

Dresses

f3
Allie Olson Highlands Wrap Dress
s1
Simplicity 8640 Dress
f4
Grainline Studio Felix Dress

Tops

f2
Named Clothing Saraste Shirt

Pants

f1
McCalls 7726 High-Waisted Pants
b1
True Bias Yari Jumpsuit
3
Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs

Skirts

f2
Named Clothing Utu Skirt

Jackets

play
Butterick 6251 Fleece Jacket
f3
Lekala 5712 Faux Fur Jacket
back 1
Itch to Stitch Paro Cardigan

There are no misses, dislikes, or disappointmentss in the loft. I learn from everything I sew, and I always feel each project is a winner ๐Ÿ™‚

Model in gold

Ciao! Coco