Simplicity 2703 jacket muslin in ponte

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Yes, I make a lot of muslins, but I don’t always write about them. Having a 1 3/4 yard ponte remnant, I decided to do a little pattern play with S2703.

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It’s an ‘old’ pattern that I picked up to make a replacement for my worn-out RTW (either JJill or Coldwater Creek) jacket.

The pattern suggests a variety of woven fabrics, so of course I want to make it in a knit ๐Ÿ™‚

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 10, with 4″ added to the length. The original pattern is very short!

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  • Given all the other curve and cutesy details, I squared my front bottom edges.

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  • The sleeves are bracelet length, not my favorite, so I added 4″ to them as well.

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  • Not wanting the jacket to be too fitted in the torso, I added 5/8″ to the front and back side seams at the waistline, and re-drew the them accordingly.
  • Weird thing: the pattern has a lined upper and lower front and a full yoke-sized lining at the upper back. This would be much too much fabric in ponte. So I drafted 3″ wide facing for the back neckline and front edges.

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  • The collar on this jacket is wonderful!! It’s cut in one piece, no worry or fuss with the front curves. To keep it soft and flexible, I did not interface it.

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  • What didn’t work – the front waist band. I should have lined it in a woven fabric to prevent stretching.

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I won’t keep this muslin, but I definitely have plans for the pattern – I would love this in a very lightweight white French terry for summer.

Parting shot: This orchid has been growing in my guava tree since I bought it as a little dried out thingie in a net bag, eight years ago. It’s blooming for the first time! and I think it might be a cattleya.

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Ciao! Coco

Simplicity 1946 Terry Robe

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My house has purple fuzz everywhere!

S1946 is currently my favorite robe pattern. It’s so easy to make (no attached front band), and it’s a wonderful fit.

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I made two robes earlier this year, but I had difficulty wearing the fabrics. One was rayon French terry, and the other was cotton/tencel sweater knit (here). Both irritate my neck and shoulders. So I made a new one in cotton terry cloth – bingo! The terry has a nice weight, is very soft, and feels just right.

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From Fabric Mart

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Medium with no changes.
  • A tip for the belt carriers: Terry cloth is thick. If you insert the ends of the loop side by side, instead of together, they won’t make a big lump in the side seam.

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My next project is to clean my house. I’m tracking little purple threads and loops everywhere ๐Ÿ™‚ It’s almost the weekend – I hope it’s safe and pleasant for all.

Ciao! Coco

 

Simplicity 8640 dress in white linen

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It’s a very rainy Saturday, and my plans to take pics in the garden gave way to the storms we’re having. It’s noon, and we’ve already had over an inch of rain today. My garden alligator is swimming (he’s concrete, BTW, but very convincing).

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In the spirit of things, I just drank more coffee and took pics in the loft.

This is my second version of Simplicity 8640 (first one here). Any time I really like a pattern, I do a repeat pretty quickly. I’m so self-indulgent!

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This one has a few tweaks, the most significant being a shorter length. Originally I added 1 5/8″ to the hemline of the pattern, but after seeing the photos and actually wearing my red dress, I decided it was too long. This one is 1″ shorter, and I think the length is perfect. And, yes, I went back and shortened the red one ๐Ÿ™‚

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I also improved my pocket pattern by taking the 5/8″ seam allowance off the top edge and re-drawing the facing. This is a very small change, but, IMO, the result is more balanced.

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First version:

I’m so in love with the front detail. I cut the the bodice pieces on the straight grainline this time, instead of on the bias. Much better! The bias cut actually pushed out at the seam lines and caused a little ballooning on my red dress.

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Fabric: Kaufman Brussels Washer linen from Fabric.com

What a fun dress!

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And I’m off to the loft to sew. Bye for now – Coco

Simplicity 8640 Handkerchief hem dress

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Looking sassy for a reason! I fell in love with this pattern the moment I saw a post on Instagram by my friend Valerie. Here’s a copy, and here’s her post. I unabashedly called her an enabler because I ordered the pattern and some fabric within 30 minutes. A happy shout-out, thanks, Val.

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The pattern, which I think is from last year:

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So cute for summer (and all year here in Florida).

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Fabric: Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen Blend in Brick, from Fancy Tiger Crafts

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size 12, based on my 34″ bust. I noticed on other reviews that the bodice tended to be a little tight across the girls, which informed my size decision.
  • Not sure of what length I wanted, I cut the shorter length plus 1 5/8″. For reference, I’m now 5′ 6 1/2″ (yes, I was taller in the past, actually 5′ 81/2″ in my prime :-).
  • Following Val’s lead, I used a short sleeve. I found a perfect match in McCalls 7597. It matches the sleeve from this pattern down to the notches and marks! My only change was to add 3/8″ to the length of the sleeve.

Notes on finishing:

  • I serged my front and back seam allowances and topstitched them on each side of the seam. The pattern would have you press the SA to one side first. Well, that’s off-center, plus, with this approach, the topstitching echoes the topstitching on the facing.

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  • That curved 5/8″ hem . First, there’s no crying in sewing. I angled out my side seam for the last 5/8″, to give me enough ease to turn the hem inside a pretty tight curve. I ran a line of stitching 5/8″ from the raw edge and pressed it up.ย It was easy to turn a narrow hem after that.

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ย Ta da ๐Ÿ™‚

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  • The pocket. Well, the pattern pocket is lined, with a gathered front. As did many before me, I only used the lining pattern. Not wanting to add additional weight, I also drafted my pocket to have a cut-on facing. This is easy to do! and I’m really happy with the result.

One more pic (I love this hem), and I’m off to work on a white linen blouse.

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Ciao! Coco

 

Simplicity 1946 Robe – needed!

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Truth time! My three robes were in awful shape, serviceable but not great. Not especially inspiring or fun to wear!

So I’ve been working on new ones. This is a great pattern, I mean, a great pattern. It’s so easy to sew and so predictable.

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I used this family pattern to make robes for my son and grandson, and, yes, cushions for my daughter’s cats! Now it’s ‘me’ time.

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Fortunately, I was able to cut my own version in size Medium from the original tissue. So I destroyed any future large versions. The children’s draft is intact…

My son and grandson love their robes.

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I really like this pattern because it’s so uncomplicated. No attached front band, big pockets, and an easy fit.

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I was feeling pretty brave with my choice of fabric. This is a denim/white cotton and tencel sweater knit from Sol Angeles (purchased at Fabric.com). It’s beautiful, so soft.

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And chunky. I serged all my edges before sewing! I had snow in the loft…and all over me. I kept shaking myself when I left the room, otherwise I would have had white fluff everywhere. Kind of reminded me of sewing plush fleece, but it didn’t make me rub my nose or sneeze.

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size Medium. The only change I made was to narrow the sleeve a ย bit toward the bottom.
  • Lots of serging and topstitching going on. I topstitched, per the pattern, around the front/neck facings. And because my seams were so thick, again about 3/8″ from the edge. It’s really a matter of working with fabric, no topstitching police out there…
  • I used 1 1/4″ hems on the sleeves and bottom edge, both with 2 lines of topstitching to keep them nice and flat.
  • Big change: I lined the pockets in white cotton broadcloth. It stabilized the pocket for that ‘cram my hands in’ moment and prevents the pocket fabric from stretching out from use.
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More pics…

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It’s so comfortable!

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Next up – well, I sewed the same pattern in gold French terry, and I sewed a ‘spa’ robe in white French terry, different pattern, it’s pretty nice. The latter has been used so much that it’s in the laundry.

New projects – wrap front culottes from Burda, and the Allie Olson Highlands maxi dress. My living room is a mess with drafting paper and things to be taped! Which is fine, happy mess. My dining room is a quasi-art studio, paper, rulers, and pens everywhere. I think it’s good for me to chill and not be so picky about things. It’s my space ย ๐Ÿ™‚

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Other stuff. I got an oil change this morning (much delayed) and bopped into the nearby Orchard Supply Company for scotch tape. I love that place, it just smells so good. I came away with marigold and zinnia seeds, to be planted tomorrow. We’ll see. My target spot has sprouted peanut plants and some unknown plant, it’s fun to see what the squirrels and birds gift me.

I hope everyone has a nice, calm, and enjoyable weekend – Coco