Simplicity 7051 Vintage blouse

Well, I thought I would head east to Europe on my armchair travel journey, but instead I went west to the great southwest desert.

I found this lovely blouse pattern (1985) on some random search, and I fell in love. Ordered it on Etsy.

The attraction – the deep revere collar and elegant lines. Getting the pattern was just the beginning. Surprises:

  • It has directions for shoulder pads…
  • And for multiple bust treatments, on the pattern tissue. Not as a suggestion or re-direct to a bust adjustment tutorial. No dart, my choice, and C and D cup darts. What patterns do that now!

Moving on, it seems I’m taking STOF France fabrics on my journey. This is a woven cotton from Fabric.com, Impressions de Nature Aloe Lorraine. 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 12.
  • Although the pattern has lots of drape at the armscye for a shoulder pad, I won’t use one, so I brought in the outside shoulder seam in by 5/8″.
  • The sleeves are short. I added 1″.
  • And the cuffs/pleats are very tight, a throwback to the ’80s. I added a 1.25″ button tab and simply gathered my sleeve into the cuff.
  • The pleated pocket and epaulets are interesting options, but I left off the epaulets and flattened the pocket, adding 1.5″ at the top for a nice fold.
  • Not being fond of fusible interfacing, I used Pellon SF785 woven sewn-in for my facings.
  • The collar treatment – I really dislike and abominate a collar that is clipped and turned in at the shoulders. Really really. I always draft a back neckline facing for a nice finish.

Pics!

I have lots of plans for this pattern – this is the most comfortable, best-fitting blouse I’ve ever sewn. 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Sneeze away – Handkerchief hem trio

blue 1

Smug mug… I’ve been working on three dresses over the last couple weeks, each one a variation of the Simplicity 8640 Handkerchief Hem dress. No surprise – I changed up the hem to be more exaggerated, and I drafted a V-neck option as well!

collage

A peek back at my original version of S8640, sewn to the pattern, no changes:

s1

And the new draft, ready for the summer season:

blue 3
Fabric: Rayon Bandana Print Voile, Fabric Mart

Sewing notes:

  • I added 10″ to the length of View B/C, and drafted a ‘real’ handkerchief hemline.
  • And I used the neckline from Style Arc Adeline to draft a V-neckline.

S8640 mods

More pics!

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Fabric: Cotton Dot Clusters Print Voile, Fabric Mart

brown 1

paisley 1
Fabric: Rayon Paisley Challis, Fabric Mart

paisley 2

Parting shot – my new driving glasses (Ray Ban)!

blue 2

Ciao! Coco

More Carolyn PJs…

pj2 2

Straight from bed into my new Closet Case Carolyn Pajamas! That sounds backward, but I don’t actually sleep in my PJs.

I do love to wear them on rainy days (that cozy factor) and in the evening after my shower.

These have been in the sewing loft for over a week, pending photos. I do this all the time and I need to get them into my closet 🙂

This is my second pair of these super comfortable and cute PJs (first version here). Making them – layout, cutting, construction – is a rather big project, but it’s also fun because of all the details.

 

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pj2 1

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size 8, View B, which has the cuffs on sleeves and pant legs.
  • This wonderfully cool and wrinkle-free fabric is chocolate/off-white cotton/lycra poplin shirting from Fabric Mart’s NY Designer category.  I looked at it for days before it went on sale for 60% off – I was really fortunate to get it.
  • Once again I applied bias edging details instead of piping. This time I used double-fold quilt binding, pressed open and cut to 2″ wide. It’s poly/cotton (no shrinking to speak of), and is a nice weight for an edging. It’s also available in a myriad of colors.pj2 top

pj2 edging

I like the fit of the pants so much that I’m planning a couple pairs to wear with a sleep shirt.

Something else got moved out of the loft this morning as well. This dress was on Emile for 4 weeks as part of the staging when the house was on the market!

dress 1

It’s Simplicity 8640 (purchased on Etsy), in Traveling Bananas, a cotton/rayon/linen blend from Fabric Mart’s Hawaiian Designer.

dress 2

Parting shot – my resident doves. I know they had a baby earlier this spring, because the three of them spent hours sitting together on the fence and ground-feeding once the juvenile was out of the nest. I had to take this photo from inside the house because they startle so easily. Beautiful.

doves

Bye for now – Coco

A summer robe – S1946

emile

My house is so destroyed with pre-move fix-ups that I have nowhere to model this robe.

Plus – OK, I’m distracted, busy, working with my fix-up helper.

In the middle of all this, I decided to make a new robe. My go-to terry robe is really irritating my neck. Can you believe it?! It’s the loops on the terry cloth.

Serendipity. I ordered a couple yards of this pretty double brushed poly spandex from Fabric Mart for a cardigan. And they sent me 3 yards, the end of bolt gift. Wow. All of a sudden, this fabric just had to be a robe.

Simplicity 1946 is the only robe pattern I use now. A couple reasons: It comes in sizes for the entire family, and it does not have an attached front band. The front is faced, which means it’s so easy to sew.

collage

Of course I’m always challenging myself. The pattern is for woven fabrics, but I decided to use a knit.

Sewing notes:

  • I used the size Small Adult. Fits great.
  • I spent about an hour working with stitch lengths, tension, and so on, on both my sewing machine and my serger. I don’t just serge knit seams, I prefer to stitch and then serge to finish the seam allowances. Reason? Straight stitching adds both structure and weight to a knit seam. I like it.
  • Tip on the hem finishing: you can clip the side seam allowance at the hem turn line,  spread it open, and avoid the bulk of turning a serged side seam!

  • Those pockets: I staystich the sewing lines, press, and baste the pockets in place. For both knits and wovens. I love quilters basting needles! BTW – dbl brushed poly loves to be pressed, light steam, I use my silk setting and a calico pressing cloth.

pkt prep

  • This is a pic of my favorite presser foot. It’s a quarter-inch foot, and it’s constructed to guide 1/8″ and 1/6″ stitching as well. I’ve tried to find it online, cannot, so I sleep with it under my pillow.

favorite foot

  • Washi tape is so nice for making a topstitching guide, in this case 1 3/4″.

washi tape

  • Happiness – I didn’t run out of thread. I often order matching thread from Fabric Mart, they always select a great color. It’s much easier than running to JoAnn (which is not near me) with a swatch.

last of thread

I love this robe! I Intend to wear it all the time while I get ready to move. It’s calm 🙂

Parting shot: the loft is ready to be painted. Barren. But the printer is online, and I’m printing the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit right now!!

ready

Ciao – Coco

Simplicity 2703 jacket muslin in ponte

f2

Yes, I make a lot of muslins, but I don’t always write about them. Having a 1 3/4 yard ponte remnant, I decided to do a little pattern play with S2703.

line art

It’s an ‘old’ pattern that I picked up to make a replacement for my worn-out RTW (either JJill or Coldwater Creek) jacket.

The pattern suggests a variety of woven fabrics, so of course I want to make it in a knit 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 10, with 4″ added to the length. The original pattern is very short!

b1

  • Given all the other curve and cutesy details, I squared my front bottom edges.

f1

  • The sleeves are bracelet length, not my favorite, so I added 4″ to them as well.

cuff finish

  • Not wanting the jacket to be too fitted in the torso, I added 5/8″ to the front and back side seams at the waistline, and re-drew the them accordingly.
  • Weird thing: the pattern has a lined upper and lower front and a full yoke-sized lining at the upper back. This would be much too much fabric in ponte. So I drafted 3″ wide facing for the back neckline and front edges.

back facing

  • The collar on this jacket is wonderful!! It’s cut in one piece, no worry or fuss with the front curves. To keep it soft and flexible, I did not interface it.

front facing

  • What didn’t work – the front waist band. I should have lined it in a woven fabric to prevent stretching.

front band

I won’t keep this muslin, but I definitely have plans for the pattern – I would love this in a very lightweight white French terry for summer.

Parting shot: This orchid has been growing in my guava tree since I bought it as a little dried out thingie in a net bag, eight years ago. It’s blooming for the first time! and I think it might be a cattleya.

IMG_0076

Ciao! Coco