A summer robe – S1946

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My house is so destroyed with pre-move fix-ups that I have nowhere to model this robe.

Plus – OK, I’m distracted, busy, working with my fix-up helper.

In the middle of all this, I decided to make a new robe. My go-to terry robe is really irritating my neck. Can you believe it?! It’s the loops on the terry cloth.

Serendipity. I ordered a couple yards of this pretty double brushed poly spandex from Fabric Mart for a cardigan. And they sent me 3 yards, the end of bolt gift. Wow. All of a sudden, this fabric just had to be a robe.

Simplicity 1946 is the only robe pattern I use now. A couple reasons: It comes in sizes for the entire family, and it does not have an attached front band. The front is faced, which means it’s so easy to sew.

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Of course I’m always challenging myself. The pattern is for woven fabrics, but I decided to use a knit.

Sewing notes:

  • I used the size Small Adult. Fits great.
  • I spent about an hour working with stitch lengths, tension, and so on, on both my sewing machine and my serger. I don’t just serge knit seams, I prefer to stitch and then serge to finish the seam allowances. Reason? Straight stitching adds both structure and weight to a knit seam. I like it.
  • Tip on the hem finishing: you can clip the side seam allowance at the hem turn line,  spread it open, and avoid the bulk of turning a serged side seam!
  • Those pockets: I staystich the sewing lines, press, and baste the pockets in place. For both knits and wovens. I love quilters basting needles! BTW – dbl brushed poly loves to be pressed, light steam, I use my silk setting and a calico pressing cloth.

pkt prep

  • This is a pic of my favorite presser foot. It’s a quarter-inch foot, and it’s constructed to guide 1/8″ and 1/6″ stitching as well. I’ve tried to find it online, cannot, so I sleep with it under my pillow.

favorite foot

  • Washi tape is so nice for making a topstitching guide, in this case 1 3/4″.

washi tape

  • Happiness – I didn’t run out of thread. I often order matching thread from Fabric Mart, they always select a great color. It’s much easier than running to JoAnn (which is not near me) with a swatch.

last of thread

I love this robe! I Intend to wear it all the time while I get ready to move. It’s calm 🙂

Parting shot: the loft is ready to be painted. Barren. But the printer is online, and I’m printing the Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit right now!!

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Ciao – Coco

Simplicity 2703 jacket muslin in ponte

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Yes, I make a lot of muslins, but I don’t always write about them. Having a 1 3/4 yard ponte remnant, I decided to do a little pattern play with S2703.

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It’s an ‘old’ pattern that I picked up to make a replacement for my worn-out RTW (either JJill or Coldwater Creek) jacket.

The pattern suggests a variety of woven fabrics, so of course I want to make it in a knit 🙂

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 10, with 4″ added to the length. The original pattern is very short!

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  • Given all the other curve and cutesy details, I squared my front bottom edges.

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  • The sleeves are bracelet length, not my favorite, so I added 4″ to them as well.

cuff finish

  • Not wanting the jacket to be too fitted in the torso, I added 5/8″ to the front and back side seams at the waistline, and re-drew the them accordingly.
  • Weird thing: the pattern has a lined upper and lower front and a full yoke-sized lining at the upper back. This would be much too much fabric in ponte. So I drafted 3″ wide facing for the back neckline and front edges.

back facing

  • The collar on this jacket is wonderful!! It’s cut in one piece, no worry or fuss with the front curves. To keep it soft and flexible, I did not interface it.

front facing

  • What didn’t work – the front waist band. I should have lined it in a woven fabric to prevent stretching.

front band

I won’t keep this muslin, but I definitely have plans for the pattern – I would love this in a very lightweight white French terry for summer.

Parting shot: This orchid has been growing in my guava tree since I bought it as a little dried out thingie in a net bag, eight years ago. It’s blooming for the first time! and I think it might be a cattleya.

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Ciao! Coco

Simplicity 1946 Terry Robe

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My house has purple fuzz everywhere!

S1946 is currently my favorite robe pattern. It’s so easy to make (no attached front band), and it’s a wonderful fit.

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I made two robes earlier this year, but I had difficulty wearing the fabrics. One was rayon French terry, and the other was cotton/tencel sweater knit (here). Both irritate my neck and shoulders. So I made a new one in cotton terry cloth – bingo! The terry has a nice weight, is very soft, and feels just right.

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From Fabric Mart

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Medium with no changes.
  • A tip for the belt carriers: Terry cloth is thick. If you insert the ends of the loop side by side, instead of together, they won’t make a big lump in the side seam.

loop

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My next project is to clean my house. I’m tracking little purple threads and loops everywhere 🙂 It’s almost the weekend – I hope it’s safe and pleasant for all.

Ciao! Coco

 

Simplicity 8640 dress in white linen

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It’s a very rainy Saturday, and my plans to take pics in the garden gave way to the storms we’re having. It’s noon, and we’ve already had over an inch of rain today. My garden alligator is swimming (he’s concrete, BTW, but very convincing).

rain

In the spirit of things, I just drank more coffee and took pics in the loft.

This is my second version of Simplicity 8640 (first one here). Any time I really like a pattern, I do a repeat pretty quickly. I’m so self-indulgent!

lines

This one has a few tweaks, the most significant being a shorter length. Originally I added 1 5/8″ to the hemline of the pattern, but after seeing the photos and actually wearing my red dress, I decided it was too long. This one is 1″ shorter, and I think the length is perfect. And, yes, I went back and shortened the red one 🙂

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I also improved my pocket pattern by taking the 5/8″ seam allowance off the top edge and re-drawing the facing. This is a very small change, but, IMO, the result is more balanced.

pocket

First version:

I’m so in love with the front detail. I cut the the bodice pieces on the straight grainline this time, instead of on the bias. Much better! The bias cut actually pushed out at the seam lines and caused a little ballooning on my red dress.

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Fabric: Kaufman Brussels Washer linen from Fabric.com

What a fun dress!

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And I’m off to the loft to sew. Bye for now – Coco

Simplicity 8640 Handkerchief hem dress

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Looking sassy for a reason! I fell in love with this pattern the moment I saw a post on Instagram by my friend Valerie. Here’s a copy, and here’s her post. I unabashedly called her an enabler because I ordered the pattern and some fabric within 30 minutes. A happy shout-out, thanks, Val.

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The pattern, which I think is from last year:

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So cute for summer (and all year here in Florida).

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Fabric: Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen Blend in Brick, from Fancy Tiger Crafts

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size 12, based on my 34″ bust. I noticed on other reviews that the bodice tended to be a little tight across the girls, which informed my size decision.
  • Not sure of what length I wanted, I cut the shorter length plus 1 5/8″. For reference, I’m now 5′ 6 1/2″ (yes, I was taller in the past, actually 5′ 81/2″ in my prime :-).
  • Following Val’s lead, I used a short sleeve. I found a perfect match in McCalls 7597. It matches the sleeve from this pattern down to the notches and marks! My only change was to add 3/8″ to the length of the sleeve.

Notes on finishing:

  • I serged my front and back seam allowances and topstitched them on each side of the seam. The pattern would have you press the SA to one side first. Well, that’s off-center, plus, with this approach, the topstitching echoes the topstitching on the facing.

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  • That curved 5/8″ hem . First, there’s no crying in sewing. I angled out my side seam for the last 5/8″, to give me enough ease to turn the hem inside a pretty tight curve. I ran a line of stitching 5/8″ from the raw edge and pressed it up. It was easy to turn a narrow hem after that.

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 Ta da 🙂

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  • The pocket. Well, the pattern pocket is lined, with a gathered front. As did many before me, I only used the lining pattern. Not wanting to add additional weight, I also drafted my pocket to have a cut-on facing. This is easy to do! and I’m really happy with the result.

One more pic (I love this hem), and I’m off to work on a white linen blouse.

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Ciao! Coco