Megan Nielsen Brumby Skirt

Oh, time flies – of course, since my last post we’ve had 2 hurricanes, Thanksgiving, and my persistent cold! However, I’m definitely having some fun in the loft. I’ve been in a skirt mood, perhaps due to the change of season. This is my take on the rather amazing Brumby skirt – check out those pockets!

I purchased this pattern in 2015, made a muslin, and for some reason it’s been aging in my stash for 7 years. Now I want more…

Out of curiosity, I did a second download of the pattern (I could not believe I could do this after so long, but there it was in my account on MNeilsen), and I drafted new tissue from the newest version. There are differences between the two: the sizing is changed from S, M, L, etc., to numeric 0 – 20. Sizing, measurements, and instructions are all much improved. The instruction booklet is not overwhelmingly large and image-ridden, it’s beautifully written and illustrated. And it even has a print-friendly section that is just the instructions, no graphics. I love love the latter. The only thing that bugged me a bit is that the pattern PDF is not layered, the printout has all sizes – that’s almost archaic for a pattern PDF these days. But Megan made up for it by including 5/8″ seam allowances, not skimpy 3/8″ allowances that are treacherous for woven fabrics.

Top: Simplicity 8889 Mimi G summer shirt, post here

Sewing notes!

• My fabric is a beautiful Montana Grape IL019 softened linen from The Fabrics-Store. If you haven’t visited this shop, I hope you will – their fabrics are beautiful, and they offer loads of great patterns for linen (including freebies). Check out their Doggie Bags, pre-cut lengths of all their fabrics, deeply discounted.
• I sewed Version 1, the ‘less full’ choice, in size 12. For reference, the finished hem width in my size for this version is 59″.
• My design changes: The skirt has a contour waistband with an exposed back zipper. None of that appeals to me! I drafted a 40″ x 4.5″ waistband and worked out the mechanics of how to gather the skirt properly on the front and back. My front band is interfaced and plain, my back band has inserted elastic. I have to give a nod to Lisa at Tessuti for her blog post about using this approach. Very reassuring, and I always enjoys well-written pattern reviews.
• Of course I wanted a maxi skirt, which meant a simple addition to the skirt front and back. Version 1 is columnar, not A-line as are V2 and V3, so the add was easy. And I used a 2″ hem allowance.
• Part of the fun was the topstitching, done in a light grey for contrast. The design details really do deserve notice.

Mr. Alligator is still with me, no hurricane could move him.

Parting note – I ordered new labels from The Dutch Label Shop, just arrived!

Ciao! Coco

Pattern Emporium Heartlight Skirt

Recreating a favorite skirt – I had a similar Calvin Klein skirt back in the 80’s!

I came across the pattern by chance while cruising knit skirts on Pinterest. I purchased it right away, ordered a couple lengths of cotton lycra knit fabric from Girl Charlee, and set about making a muslin. If you look at the multitude of examples on the Pattern Emporium site, you will see that it has been sewn and worn in many ways.

My muslin (only 16″ long) is a straight size 10 based on my measurements. I even played with a pocket on one side.

The muslin was soooo helpful. In the end I used the size 14 waistband and blended the 10/12/14 for the skirt.

I love the way this sits on the hips…

Style Arc Elsie blouse

Sewing notes:

• I drafted the ‘tall’ maxi and removed 2″ at the hemline once the skirt was constructed. The ‘medium’ maxi would have been just a little short for me (5′ 7.5″).
• Before hemming, the front got an additional trim. It dipped a bit, the result of how it sits on me, not at all due to the pattern drafting.
• My lower skirt has a little less volume than the original – I folded in the side rather than sew in a ‘hem adjustment’ piece, as suggested in the pattern. That sounds weird, kind of like a gusset in a strange place. The skirt is so wide at the hem that losing a few inches is nothing.

• I used my walking foot to sew all my seams and finished them with serging. Yes, one could serge the entire skirt for a one hour wonder 🙂 IMO, however, the weight of the bias would cause sagging if only a serger is used.

• The hem can be challenging on a nearly-circular skirt!. I ran a line of long stitches 3/4″ from the edge, serged it, and used the line as a guide for turning the fold. Two lines of topstitching make a nice finish.

This was fun, and as you can see in the photos, I tend to make a mess when I’m into a project. Somehow my dining room has become a natural extension of the sewing room since I’m the only person allowed in the house 🙂

I hope you are well and feeling loved, bye for now, Coco

Sewing! Ready to Sew Justine Skirt

Actually, I’ve been sewing like crazy. It’s a great way to release tension and get off to never never land 🙂

Check out this delightful skirt from Ready to Sew and, at the moment, it’s free. Grab it… Features: a layered PDF and half sizes, total 21 sizes. Remarkable!

Sewing notes:

• I sewed the size 38, and it was perfect, including the width of the waistband.

• My fabric is Kaufman Essex linen from Hancocks of Paducah. It’s a longtime favorite fabric for pants, jumpsuits, and skirts. It has just enough body with a relaxed drape – I wouldn’t do this skirt in anything really drapey, e.g., rayon challis, or too heavy, e.g., bottomweight twill.

• Loves – the pockets. The decorative flap is so cute, and they are truly deep.

• Be sure to catch the flap in the corner triangle. Got to keep it turned and flat…

• The skirt has a one-button closure, but I was very wary of using a button closing. Have you ever had a button pull and pull, maybe tear the fabric to which it was sewn? I opted for two things: I added an additional piece of woven interfacing under the closure area,

• and I used a waistband fastener for closure, with a non-functioning button on top!

About that top – it’s a Style Arc Elsie blouse, sleeveless, sewn in Kaufman Royal Cotton Oxford, from Fabric.com. What a delightful blouse fabric.

I love this and plan to wear it over and over as I search for a new house in Orlando. Easy dressing 🙂 Coco

Breaking the Pattern – Utu Skirt

No, this is not the Utu Skirt from Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing – it’s my ‘broken’ version 🙂 The pic below is my basic Utu:

 

The Utu is one of many many patterns and variations in the new book by Laura and Saara Huhta of Named Clothing. Their site includes photos and line art for all the included projects.

Projects:

• Nummi bag
• Sade blouse and tunic
• Rae pants
• Utu skirt and pinafore
• Solina dress, jumpsuit and top
• Saraste blouse, shirt dress and top
• Kaste cocktail dress and butterfly sleeve dress
• Palo jeans
• Halla coat

It’s a lovely workbook, printed on heavy matte paper and beautifully written and illustrated. And it’s really a sewing 101. I was amazed by the instruction sets, suggestions, and information included in the book.

Sewing the Utu:

• I sewed the size 3, and the fit was great.

• It’s described as a midi skirt, but I actually added 3″ to the length. To me, a midi should hover somewhere between the knee and ankle – but not just below the knee. Reference, I’m 5’6.5″.
• The patterns include 3/8″ (1 cm) seam allowances, a scary thought for woven fabric, so I drafted my pattern with a 5/8″ SA.
• I love the high shaped waist, which is backed by a very deep facing. Nice drafting.
• And the silhouette, as a pencil skirt, is perfect.
• Not so nice – the front cross-over, right and left side, is very narrow. When I sat, the skirt split open to my ……
• And it was just so plain.

So I broke it!

Fabric: Sportswear Stretch Corduroy Fabric -Rust from JoAnn

I removed 2.5″ from the front edges, added a 1″ button band and 4 belt loops, and fashioned a 1.5″ wide belt.

Great little skirt!

I like this so much that I’m planning to do another 🙂 And I’m also going to break two more patterns!

Bye for now – Coco

V8962 Valentines Skirt

Just a quick little post today, prepping for Valentines Day. One of my favorite special days…

This skirt is done in a heavy weight Ponte from Stylish Fabrics, a perfect weight for a knit skirt. This was also my first purchase from this fabric vendor, and I’m very pleased with the fabric, shipping, and service.

What a great color, and the fabric is heavy enough that my tucked-in top doesn’t announce itself 🙂

This is my second version of the V8962 skirt, and it’s quickly becoming a favorite. It just suits me, and I love all the opportunities to highlight the seven panels with topstitching on the seam allowances.

Wow, that back vent is great. In a ponte knit, it finishes beautifully.

I made this version exactly as my first (here). So just a few more pics. I feel really pretty and trendy in this style! And it speaks to my new year’s resolution to add form-fitting designs to my closet.

Top: Grainline Studio crew-neck Lark Tee

Happy Valentines Day!

Ciao! Coco

V8962 Pencil skirt

This is the first time I’ve sewn a straight skirt! And I love it.

I bought Vogue 8962 four years ago, really for the tunic, but I decided the wrapped front seam didn’t excite me. In the end, I kept the pattern so that I could use the cowl collar on something.

However, new year and new resolutions. Among other things, I’m determined to try some new designs and make something other than A-line dresses, long cardigans, and loose tunics.

This skirt was inspired by the leopard spot fleece jacket I’m making. I started thinking about how to style it. Jeans of course, and leggings. And then came that moment – how about a short black skirt. This morning I rummaged the stash, found a yard of black ponte, and, just a few hours later, I had a great skirt.

Sewing notes:

• Much to my disgust, the pattern provides no information on finished measurements. Not on the envelope and not on the tissue. Lots of measuring later, I determined that I’m somewhere between size 12 and 14 (I have 37.5″ hips), so I cut the 14, with 3/4″ taken out of the center front panel.
• My skirt finished at 40″ at the hip (about 12″ below the natural waistline). It doesn’t cup my backside, thank goodness, but it does have nice slim lines.
• This is a fast sew! I sewed everything on my sewing machine with a straight stitch. It could be done on a serger, but a caution: it has seven panels and keeping the seams flat is really important. A wavy seam would not be pretty 🙂
• I added 2″ to the length at the hemline (I’m 5’7). The skirt is simply not as long as it looks on the envelope. I didn’t move the vent down, it’s perfect where it is.
• And speaking of the envelope, it suggests that the skirt tapers in at the knee, but it doesn’t. It would have to be very tight to do that.

I’m feeling proud of myself, and I definitely want more!

Ciao! Coco

McCalls 6966 Maxi Skirt – easy dressing…

 

 

Oh, it was so nice to sew this skirt! I love maxi’s, so this project felt like coming home.

I bought this pattern ages ago, and I’ve never sewn it. Mostly because I was simply drafting my knit maxi skirts as an A-line with a yoga waistband. Like this one from a couple years ago (worn with Kathryn Brenne’s beautiful jacket, V9135):

But my earlier skirts were showing wear and are now gone. M6966 has lots of options, including the hi-lo look that’s so trendy this summer.

Time to give it a try. It’s pretty cute!

Sewing notes – this is very easy to sew:

• I used size Medium, without a single change.
• My fabric is a very loosely woven cotton French terry from Girl Charlee.
• The length was perfect for me at 5’7″. In fact, I took off 1″ before taking up a 1″ hem.
• This skirt is very similar, in shape and sizing, to the the Sewaholic Gabriola skirt, which is for woven fabrics and has a zipper.

I love the waistband construction. It stays up a bit better than a yoga band, and it’s very nicely finished.

(1) The outside waistband and facing are joined at the top edge, right sides together. A line of stitching about an inch below forms a casing for elastic.

(2) The elastic is inserted, and the band is turned with right sides out – the elastic is hidden!

(3) And the band is attached to the top of the skirt. I sewed it on with an elastic stitch and serged the seam allowance together to give a nice finish.

I took my pics in the dining room this morning, so I could go back and forth to my closet for options to style the skirt. I tried a cropped shirt, a belted tunic, and a jeans jacket (which is why I was wearing the white bra that’s peeking out on my shoulder). Of course, I ended up liking a simple knit tee the best.

Parting shot – since the mosquitoes rule the yard for the moment, I’m doing a little gardening on the porch. These skinny dudes are papaya sprouts, grown from seeds I harvested from a fresh papaya way back in January. If I can get them up to about 20″, they’ll go in the back garden.

I’ve had papaya trees before, and the wasps really enjoyed the fruit – they’re fast.

Bye for now – Coco