True Bias Ogden Cami button front!

front closeup

I could not resist the opportunity to draft the True Bias Ogden Cami with a button front. Yes, I was inspired by the Style Arc Portia Top. Kind of irresistible. My woven muslin of the original pattern fit perfectly, but, IMHO, it lacked that little bit of detail that would make the pattern pop.

line art

BTW, below I’ve described my changes, but if it’s more comfortable for you, the Portia is a nice alternative.

style arc portia

So, my top. A couple pics on Emile, front and back. I didn’t mess with the back because it works so well for me – I have a broad back and the pattern gives me that extra ease.

This was so easy to do. I ordered some Ralph Lauren black cotton batiste from Fabric Mart specifically for this top. Batiste is a little lighter and more supple than lawn and a bit heavier than voile.

front

Sewing notes: I made changes to the front and the front lining.

  • Front first – I added 1/2″ at the center front for the button band overlap, and 1 1/2″ for the button band facing.

new facing

  • The lining – I added 1/2″ at the center front to match the front changes.

lining

  • And I cut fusible tricot lining for the new front button band, 1″ wide.

adding facing

  • Of course I practiced my buttonholes and stitches. I loosened the tension on my upper thread for straight stitching, but was OK with the buttonholes once I found the right size.

buttonhole practice

This top is so perfect with my cardigans. Off to the grocery…

off to the grocery

Winner! bye for now – Coco

True Bias Ogden Cami in knit fabric

knit front

First, please excuse my headless photos! I stayed up until 4 this morning watching season 4 of The Sopranos. And I did the same for the three previous nights, seasons 1 – 3. I don’t plan to stop this madness until I’ve watched them all. I have the complete series on DVD, but the display in live HD is much better.

BTW, I’m feeling a little self-conscious about my scleroderma in these pics. I know that’s unnecessary, but it still happens 🙂

OK, project! As have so many sewists, I recently purchased the True Bias Ogden Cami.

line art

What a great top. My first muslin was in cotton calico, size 4, and it’s a perfect fit. My only change was to lengthen it by 1″.

Of course I had to try it in knit fabric! My first version was also size 4, and the décolletage is low

first

But it was fun. Because I was leery of the lining crossing my bust, I lengthened it by 5″, and used it as an outside layer. And I used rolled seams. Cute!

Nonetheless, it was back to the drawing board. Sewing notes:

  • For my second knit version, I drafted the cami in size 2.
  • The fabric is white hacci knit from Fabric Mart. It’s too sheer for this top, but I had a remnant, good for a muslin.
  • I lengthened the front and back by 1″, as before,
  • And also lengthened the lining by 3″ so that I can use it on the inside without a line across my bust area.
  • To strengthen the straps, I trimmed the seam allowances to be just a little more narrow than the straps. I used a pin to turn them, because tube turners kept going through the fabric. To reduce stretch, I topstiched both edges at about 1/8″.

strap

Back view:

knit back

Next up will be a Paro Cardigan in a really funky distressed French Terry! It’s finished, but I’m thinking I’ll brush my hair before I take pics…

Bye for now – Coco

True Bias Nikko top – a muslin

f3

OK, please do not laugh at my pants or sleepy face! Focus, people! a small post about my muslin of the True Bias Nikko Top.

I discovered this pattern only a couple days ago, and I love it! Lots of options, and the selling point for me, a nice mock turtleneck.

line art

The pattern description suggests that the back on the sleeveless versions is somewhat similar to a racer back. I didn’t find that to be the case at all. It has nice coverage and a ‘traditional’ silhouette.  BTW, the pattern includes facings for the armhole, but I simply trimmed away 3/8″, and used self-fabric binding.

b2

Kelli suggests using knit fabrics with about 75% horizontal stretch. So of course I did my muslin with a remnant of cotton/lycra jersey, only 40% stretch. Well, I could not begin to pull the turtleneck section over my head 🙂 I modified it to be somewhat wider, just enough to pull over my oversize noggin. In the future I will pay attention to the stretch factor!

f2

Cute, right? Has anyone else sewn this?

I’m off to find stretchy fabric (the sleeveless top requires only 1.3 yards in my size 10).

Bye for now – Coco

Breaking the Pattern – Saraste shirt

front closeup

I am in love with this shirt. It is by far the prettiest I’ve ever sewn – fit, details, drafting, rave on…

i1-tile

f2
Fabric: Kaufman Kona cotton from JoAnn. Buttons: Akoya shell from Wawak.

Sewing notes:

  • I drafted the size 3, long-sleeve shirt without the shoulder vent,
  • And increased all my seam allowances to 5/8″.
  • Collar: Using the suggestions in the workbook, I decide to draft a long pointed collar. It’s so pretty! I’ve always been uneasy with collars, but this one is something  else. BTW, the collar on Named’s Reeta shirtdress was just awful, kind of ruined the dress for me (post here) but the ladies have really perfected this feature, this collar goes on like a dream.

Pointed collar

A tip: using a template to draw the curve at the collar band really helps.

Collar template

  • Sleeve: The original sleeve was very narrow and short, and kind of grabbed when I lifted my arm. I drafted  and cut out a new one with a few adjustments.
    • Added 1″ to the length.
    • Moved the side seam out 1″ at the hemline and re-drew the side seams and vents, resulting in a more commodious sleeve.
    • Dropped the curve in the hem edge by 1/2″ at the highest point, and re-drew the bottom edge.
    • Gathered the sleeve into the cuff for a nice soft finish.

sleeve bottom

A comparison of my original sleeve, and the new one I drafted:

Sleeve compare

  • The front princess seam…for my smaller girls, I flattened the curve on the side front by a scant 1/4″. This is an easy adjustment that really works.
  • Armscye: It’s very high and shallow.
    • Moved the shoulder out by 3/8″ and deepened the armscye by 3/8″ at the bottom, trued up each side.
  • Blouse:
    • Added 1/4″ to the side seam allowances at the waist marking (the blouse is very nipped at the waist) and trued the change up and down.
    • Did not face the back yoke, keeping it light and airy.

b1

Between the Utu skirt (posted here) and the Saraste shirt, I’ve gotten more pleasure and fun than I ever anticipated!

f1

socks

b2

Rock on! Coco

V-neck Alder top in jersey knit

f1

It’s a beautiful cool south Florida morning! Only about 65°, and I’m actually cold in these pics 🙂

Recently I made the Grainline Studio Alder as a v-neck top, two actually, in Brussels washer linen (post here and here). After wearing them, I realized that they’re a bit large, and the v-neck is a little wider than I like. Not to worry, I washed them a few times to shrink them, and all is well.

However – I decided to draft the pattern in a smaller size (8 instead of 10) and to sew it in cotton/lycra jersey. So brave… and a great result!

Sewing notes:

  • As before, I used the self-faced left side for the right side as well, eliminating the attached button band. I re-shaped the v-neckline to be more narrow and 1″ higher and drafted new facings.
f1 2
Before
f2
New neckline and smaller size
  • I can pull this over my head, so I just attached the buttons through both sides, with no buttonholes. Yes, I was avoiding the angst of sewing a buttonhole in a knit fabric!
  • To add some back interest, I added 2.5″ to the width of the lower back and gathered it into the yoke.

b3

  • The back yoke is unlined, which keeps the ‘weight’ of the fabric even from neck to hem and decreases bulk in the armhole binding.
b1
Top: Fabric Merchants cotton/lycra jersey, Fabric.com
  • My finished center back length is 26.5″.
  • And I didn’t used pockets on the front. I did cut them out and prep them, but they didn’t look right, they were just too heavy for this knit.

I’m loving the pants I’m wearing, McCalls 7634 (first post here). A little tattoo art for Halloween!

b2
Pants: Tattoo Tigers, Hearts, Roses jersey, Cali Fabrics

Speaking of Halloween, my cute Ashley in costume for the Halloween party she and Darrin host every year 🙂

ab

Happy Halloween! Coco