The Sewing Workshop Trio Top – second version

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I’m on my way to an ‘outfit’ – skirt and top.

Rather than talk about 2 garments in one post, I thought I’d just focus on the top this morning.  Another Trio, in a nice metallic pin dot quilting cotton from JoAnns. Pin dots are favorites around here for lining bags and pouches, and adding contrast binding and waistbands. I used to have this fabric in lime and purple, long gone, and had just enough of the rust to make a Trio top.

trio top line art

This fabric really showcases the back inset detail (so so pretty)…

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This time I kept some notes and pics from the construction process, techniques that can carry over to many patterns.

  • That collar – Linda Lee suggests making a template to draw the tricky ends of the collar stand and ensure they are the same when sewn. Great idea! I drew this template straight off the pattern, and I kept it for future use.

collar template

collar sewn

  • Sewing the curved hem – here’s a look at hem allowance in the side seam area. My first step was to re-shape the hem allowance to allow for the turn, but I wasn’t done. Note the resulting bubble at the fold line – if not resolved, this little bit of excess would bunch up inside the hem.

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So I clipped it out…

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These two little fixes provide a nice smooth hem.

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  • Finishing the interfacing at the hemline – the pattern says to turn up the hem inclusive of the interfacing. I just don’t like how that looks! so I always turn the interfacing to the right side, sew it just below the hem line, and turn it back out for a nice clean finish.

interface 1

 

This is a casual shirt, so of course I just topstitched the hem 🙂

interface 2

Next up, a skirt to go with the top. I’ll post it as soon as I feel like putting on lipstick and combing my hair for pics!

Parting shot from my sewing room in the wee hours this morning – April the giraffe keeping me company.

sewing with april

Bye for now! Coco

 

Kwik Sew 3802 … Achoo!

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My fascination with  interesting hemlines continues!

This is pattern is not new, in fact I’m amazed I found it. Good old Kwik Sew.

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What a great pattern to try, especially in light of the drama of my recent make of Vogue 9224. The biggest difference is in the length of the garment – this one is shorter by a few inches.

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This is a very lightweight rayon/lycra jersey from Fabric Mart

And it had some drama of its own, totally my fault! I initially made it in size Large (OK, I’m not yet accustomed to my diminished girls, I keep making the mistake of thinking I’m sewing for a C cup instead of an A cup).

The large…

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Poor fuzzy reject 🙂

So I took this first version apart, laid it out, and marked it against the Medium. Much better.

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I really like this look over leggings. And for the record, I’m wearing this with a new pair of Love Notions Sabrina Slims. Can’t get enough Slims. The fabric is Fiesta Fabrics Petunia Garden in the purple colorway (I’ve seen it on both Craftsy and Fabric Mart, rayon/lycra, about 5.9 oz).

And my second muslin, done in cotton/lycra knit. It doesn’t have as much drape, but it’s interesting to try a pattern in different fabrics. This one got worn to the market this morning…

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Some sewing notes:

  • Yes, I sewed the Medium. I still think it would benefit from a little shaping in the center back, which the Vogue pattern has, and is to be included in my next version.
  • Sewing the handkerchief detail. For some reason, both the Vogue and this pattern would have you sew the side seam first, and then do the hems on the split detail. Gosh, what a great way to put a lump in that hem split!

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Alternative –  I check my alignment from armscye to split, and hem the edges of the split first. Then I sew the side seam, the entire underarm and side, and finish things off.

In this pic:  (1) the side seam after hemming the handkerchief hem, and then the side seam, (2) neatening the serger thread from the side seam, and (3) a nice finished split:

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  • My other big change was to add a center front seam to make it easier to bind the V-neck. I just don’t like to wrestle with bands on V-necks if I can avoid it!

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On Emile:

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And a side-by-side:

It’s Sunday, lovely Sunday. My grandson celebrated his 8th birthday on Friday – a skating party with his friends at the hockey rink – and his Dad posted this message on Facebook. This is joy…

p at 8

For now – Coco

V8499 and Tessuti Demi Pant- the combo mambo…

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Now that is a happy face!

I’ve been so busy – watching April and Oliver as they wait for their little giraffe to appear, and thinking about my recent makes of the V8499 and Tessuti Demi pants. And getting a new hot water heater. Yes, domestic needs do intrude sometimes on my sewing.

Revisiting the V8499 pants, I mentioned in my post that they might work better in a woven. So I tried them in a linen/rayon blend. Hmm. A little soporific…

Plain V8499

But the pattern has a great darted front and waistband.

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My affection for the Tessuti Demi Pants was still lukewarm pending more work.

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What an opportunity – I decided to combine the patterns using the linen pants as my target. Out with that boring hem!

Line art:

Line Art x 2

This was a simple change. I drew the Demi detail on the linen pants, cut, and sewed. Not bad!

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In fact, they’re really cute.

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I actually wore shoes for these pics, because they do make a difference in the how the pants look. These are my favorite Madden Girl gladiator cheaters. And I’m wearing my Sewing Workshop Trio Top, hemmed and buttoned (I’ve become a bit fond of the top, collar and all). I love love the back on the Trio, and the upper arm coverage…

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A note on my fabric: it’s a 55% linen/45% rayon blend from Fabric.com, the charcoal colorway. It’s very nice, and has a perfect rumple with no shine (I’ve found that blends that reverse the content – 55% rayon/45% linen – tend to drape more, have fewer slubs, and have a slight sheen).

Both blends ravel! so I serged the cut ends of the yardage before putting it through the washer and dryer 3 times. I also serged around all my cut pieces before I started sewing. It’s so easy to lose the seam allowance to a healthy ravel on linens.

Fabric

I think that’s the end of this particular saga. All that remains is to order some more of this lovely fabric and make another pair. I like them 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Butterick 5203 – When the shark bites…

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I have sharkbite fever…

Recently I’ve sewn a couple knit tops that have a draped side hem, and I love them. They’re just so much fun to wear. Since Fabric Mart and Craftsy conspired to increase my stash of rayon crepe fabrics, it was time to sew a sharkbite with a woven fabric. Ha. No pattern. I have over 100 patterns, but not the pattern.

I don’t mind drafting a hemline, but it’s nice to have a pattern – it’s simpler, and it builds confidence. I first saw this pattern on the See & Sew shelf at JoAnns, and I almost passed on it. The envelope pics are pretty bad. But I picked it up, checked out the line art, and decided to give it a try.

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It’s actually pretty cute!

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This started as a muslin, made from every square inch of a rayon crepe remnant. I flat-measured the pattern, decided to sew the size 12, and made only a couple changes:

  • I drafted a v-neck, to add some balance to the length and hemline.
  • And I used 3/4 length sleeves, because the long sleeves just don’t seem to go with the top. Too much.

One thing I noticed is that it looks a lot longer on the models than it does on me (I’m 5’7″). Butterick must have lengthened it for the fit models. ummm. Nonetheless, I did goof by not adding a couple inches, something I usually do.

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Not a game stopper, because I really like how this turned out. I wore it to the hardware store yesterday and felt very pretty.

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And… tomorrow is my day. Wow.

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Ciao! Coco

 

Vogue 9224 – done and different…

 

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Yes, I’m on a sewing roll. It’s because I’m feeling well, and life is quiet right now 🙂

I’ve been looking at handkerchief hem tunics for a while, and kept going back to Sandra Betzina’s Vogue 1477. Ruth’s versions at CoreCouture are beautiful, fun, and inspiring. But I’ve already failed with two similar garments and was doubtful about this one. Still, I had to have it. Bought it, checked out the pattern pieces for the twist front, and put it away.

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Vogue 1477 Line Art

More looking, and I found Vogue 9224. It’s described as a handkerchief hem tunic, but everything else requires some creative thinking. The envelope pics don’t seem to match one another, no measurements are provided for the finished garment, and I couldn’t find a single review of the pattern on the web. Perfect!

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Vogue 9224

But it really does have that hem!

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Pretty cute. And very long – the center back on the pattern piece comes in at over 35″.

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Sewing notes:

  • I used a lightweight (5.9 oz) rayon/lycra jersey from Fabric Mart, with the recommended 2-way stretch (60%/40%).
  • I love the color, which is described as deep grape.
  • I sewed a straight size Medium, and I did not lengthen it!
  • To break up the sea of fabric in the front, I drafted a v-neck. I based it on View C, which has a cowl neck and gave me a good starting place. If I sew this again, I might raise the CF a bit more. That cowl neck must be very low…
  • And I finished the neckline with self-fabric binding instead of a neck band.
  • Caution: I used over 3 yards of 59″ wide fabric, versus the 2 3/8 yards indicated on the pattern. Perhaps because I laid out all the pattern pieces in one direction. I also had to work around some flaws in the fabric. This is another pre-cut (Craftsy has them as well), and I’ve found color variations in the solid rayon/lycra knits. Still, I picked it up for $6.40 total for 4 yards. Not bad and a great option for a muslin.

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Once again I’ve styled this with white leggings, so that the details are easier to see. But I did take a couple pics with dark grey bottoms – I like the combo.

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This was an easy project and a fun foray into this hemline.

Bye for now! Coco