New Look 6150 Ruched Top

 

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Here come some grainy pics! This cute top is a very deep eggplant cotton/lycra jersey, it just doesn’t photograph well. So I lightened everything 🙂

Yes, New Look 6150, one of the Best Patterns of 2013 on Pattern Review. It only took me 5 years to find it – it really is a nice pattern:

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I love how well this top tucks and stays in place!

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It’s the top I was wearing with the high-waited linen pants in my last post:

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed View A, size 12, with no changes.
  • I marked every single notch and circle from the pattern – and used them all.
  • Just to share, I use a piece of calico as a pressing cloth for knits, and I seldom get pressing lines.

calico pressing cloth

  • A tip – those long front edges are curved and have a narrow hem. It’s tempting, almost natural, to stretch it out as you pin and sew…but don’t! You’ll end up with a distorted and wavy edge. Kind of shake out the fabric so it finds its way, and let it guide you.

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Like so many people before me, I’m hooked on this pattern. I’ve already sewn it in black jersey, and I have a cream jersey to start in the morning. I’m sticking with the fun stuff 🙂

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Late breaking news: Preston’s soccer team won their league championship game today, and he scored a goal!!

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Ciao! Coco

Favorite Brenne Pants

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Every once in a while (usually Jungle January time), I start craving a bit of animal print in my wardrobe. I ordered this cotton/lycra leopard sateen from Fabric Mart in December, and I had a good laugh when it arrived. I had sewn it before!

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Vogue 9114, post here
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Vogue 9217, shorts!

The stretch sateen is a perfect weight for these pants, Vogue 9217.

Brenne pants line artI’ve sewn these pants 5 times now, and as usual made just a couple tweaks. Every fabric is different, and so am I after losing a lot of weight.

  • I took 3/4″ from the side seams, back and front, at the hip curve.
  • And took about 1/2″ out of the curve in the back rise.
  • Because I used a straight hem and wanted a longer length, I added 3″ to the hem allowance.

For the topper, I looked through all my patterns for something that would tuck nicely and be a little form-fitting. The Lark Tee is perfect, and, strangely, I haven’t sewn it since I made the cardigan variation a couple years ago (post here).

Lark cardi

Lark Tee Line Art

 

 

This is my first Tee version, and, gosh, I really like it! I used the crew neck version, top left in the line art, with long sleeves.

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I made just a few adjustments, but nothing extraordinary:

  • The tee has 1/4″ seam allowances (read that as use a serger). Because I do flat-felled shoulders on all my garments to make them comfortable, I added 3/8″ to the shoulder seams.
  • I didn’t use the neck band, opting for binding instead. I just like it better.
  • I knew from sewing the cardi that the sleeve pattern is a bit short for me, so I added 1″ to the length.
  • And the tee is long! I raised the hem by 3 1/4″ – tucked in, it finishes midway down my hip.

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Here are a couple pics with my black batwing tee, M6203 (post here). I think I like black more than white with these pants.

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 Ciao! Coco

McCalls 6203 Bats in the attic

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Good Monday morning! I was up double-O-early today, that full moon just wanted some attention. Beautiful moon…

2013With fresh coffee in hand, I finally got together some pics of my latest knit tops. These were sewn with a purpose, which is not something I can say about most things I sew! I wanted some tops that I can tuck into my jeans. Just that. But not tee shirts or blouses. It sounds easy, but I spent hours looking at patterns online, and finally remembered this top that I made in 2013, during my batwing period. OK, it was also my zebra period…

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I remember buying this pattern as a leap of faith, because the envelope pics are really really bad. But the line art, no embellishments, is quite good. And it makes a great top.

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I really like the deep ballet neck. It’s feminine and sort of elevates the vibe of a pair of jeans. BTW – I love jeans. I don’t sew them, I buy them. I could never ever get this fit in a pair that I made myself. The ones here all from Coldwater Creek and are old, just the way jeans should be 🙂 And it’s really gratifying that these fit again…

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Fabric: rayon/spandex medium weight jersey, Fabric.com

Of course I made a white top as well.

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Fabric: cotton/modal lightweight jersey, Girl Charlee

A few sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size Medium, View C.
  • Since the pattern is tunic length, I shortened it by 4″ for this tuck-able top.
  • And I used self-fabric binding for the neckline. The pattern has a double-layer, raw edge affair for the neckline, which is a bit much for me.

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Parting shot: I was messing around in the garden the other day and found this hoya carnosa blossom almost hidden from view. Hoyas bloom exuberantly in the sun, but at the expense of their foliage. I moved my two baskets into the shade a couple years ago, and I really enjoy their deep shiny foliage and occasional blossom.

Hoya Sep 1 2017

Bye for now – Coco

McCalls 7597 V-Neck complete!

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Wow – you’d think I’d hem those jeans! But I have an excuse (of course). I’m not wearing shoes!

Best news – my laptop power cord arrived, and it works! Ahhh.

While waiting, I spent hours and hours working on my v-neck version of the M7597 caftan. The pattern has a high neckline, something I seldom wear. But I love everything else about it – the bib, gathers, back, silhouette, sleeves…

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s2My first v-neck muslin was OK, but the I was not happy with the fit of the neckline. It was a little low (an easy fix), and it wanted to gap on the sides (not so easy). I’m really careful with bias-cut edges – staystitching, direction of stitching, and so on. So I knew I needed to do a little work and research.

I remembered that Jen/Grainline Studio had shared a v-neck variation for her Alder shirtdress, so I took a look. Bingo! I needed to add a bit of concave curve to the v-neck. From her tutorial (here):

alder vneck tute

Such a difference:

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Fabric: white-on-white cotton print, JoAnns

 

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This tunic style is one of my favorites for jeans, especially in a crisp white fabric. So ’70s! but feels like home to me…

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Now that I’ve conquered the neckline, redrafted the facings, and updated my pattern tissue, I’m looking forward to a maxi dress. I purchased this gorgeous challis from Cali Fabrics several weeks ago – the colors are so rich and exuberant. And it’s definitely destined to be a caftan, it’s just a matter of deciding which pattern to use, this one or the Closet Case Charlie.

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Parting shot: this little Southern Chorus frog (Pseudacris nigrita) has been keeping me company on the porch for weeks. He has a sweet little trilling call and spends his time in my plants. For perspective, he is sitting in a 4″ pot and is less than 1″ long. Cute thing…

Pseudacris nigrita Southern Chorus Frog

Ciao! Coco

McCalls 7597 Kaftan – a complete muslin

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Complete because I did it with and without sleeves.

Fran, this is for you 🙂

I’ve been wanting to be in love with this pattern, so I ditched my knit fabric muslin and sewed it in a woven – in fact, in muslin.

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As a lover of tunics, and an admirer of really well-done kaftans, I snapped up this pattern just after its release. I looked all over the web, and I’ve found no reviews or pics. So – here we go!

My first focus was on the front bib insert, on both my knit attempt and on this one – on how it’s constructed and finished (because I’m picky). The pattern does not disappoint.

Inside and outside views – very nice. My muslin is a very high-thread count muslin from JoAnns.  It’s actually more like poplin, very stiff, so I didn’t use any interfacing. But I think the high neckline slit calls for interfacing in most fabrics to support the neckline.

 

The pattern instructions would have one (1) sew the sides of the bib into the bodice, (2) clip the corner turn, and (3) sew across the gathered bodice and bib edge. But I am not a fan. I sewed the sides of the bib into the bodice, and simply folded the bottom edge of the bib over the the gathered bodice. And topstitched. Much much easier.

Stay sane, peeps!

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Having conquered the front, I also had concerns that the gathers in the back, under the yoke, might be too much. But the back is pretty! And the sides have just enough curve in them to give a nice silhouette.

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Aaargh…I just had to stop typing and go to my laptop settings. I got the Microsoft 10 Creator update this morning, which took 3.5 hours and changed a bunch of settings, including my touchpad. I don’t use the touchpad, but I kept touching it with my palm as I typed. This post got a little wonky for a while…

But I’m back.

Here’s another view of the back, moving my arm a bit. It’s very comfortable and fits well.

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Sewing notes:

  • To start, I’m 5’7″, and have a 34″ bust. I sewed size 12.
  • With no changes!
  • Other than my usual adjustment for a sloping shoulder on my right side. Without the latter, necklines and jacket hems do not match up. It worked fine on this pattern – whew. You never know until you do it…
  • I used the cutting line from View C, which has an added contrast band that I didn’t use. I just wanted the extra length. It’s easier to cut off than to add on!
  • My finished back length on this version is 32 1/2″, which is super nice with leggings.
  • The sleeves are cut at the longest length ( which is not full length – if you want a full-length sleeve, be sure to measure and add to the sleeve).
  • I used a 1 3/4″ hem allowance on the sleeve, finishing with a 9.5″ underarm seam.
  • A note – I have an 11″ bicep, and the sleeve is comfortable on me, but you can see that they are not generously wide.
  • I sewed the sleeve in flat, because I never sew a set-in sleeve unless I have to do it!
  • For this muslin, I trimmed the seam allowance off the sleeveless side to get a true view of a sleeveless version. The pattern uses the same armscye for sleeveless and sleeves makes, so it’s good to see how both work. I think the sleeveless armscye falls just where I’d want it.

Last view with my sewing buddy…

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Parting thoughts – this is a great little pattern. The drafting is well-balanced, the pattern pieces fit together perfectly, and it was fun to sew. I even like the high neckline! and I usually go for v-neck and scoop-neck designs. The pattern might not be for beginning sewists, given the insert and sleeves. It’s such a new pattern, I’m happy to help out with any questions and so on if you’re thinking of sewing it.

Last week, before I sewed this muslin, and with crossed fingers, I purchased fabric for a maxi length version, including 3/8″ wide trim for the front insert. Five 1/2 yards – that’s a lot of fabric, but I think it will be really pretty.

fabric and trim

It’s Friday – I hope everyone enjoys a very nice weekend. Ciao! Coco