McCall 7634 Sweatshirt in French terry

front 2

I’m so cold!! and have only a couple long sleeve tops. January and February are our chilly season, we went down to 43 degrees last night. Great excuse for a new top.

I started with M7634, followed with a few modifications, including the V-neck from Burda 06-2011-107B.

 

 

I love how this looks! the fabric is navy Telio Stewart French terry knit from Fabric.com, 38% cotton/32% polyester/30% rayon. It has about 25% mechanical stretch both ways, but no recovery at all.

back

Sewing notes:

  • Sewed the size 12 in the McCall pattern.
  • Used the short view with an additional 4.5″ in the length, and a 3″ (finished) bottom band. The unfinished band is about 7″ wide and a couple inches shorter than the bottom hem. Doubled and stretched it to fit.
  • Recut the neckline using the Burda pattern. It has facings, which I used to stabilize the neckline, in cotton/poly broadcloth. Yes, there is fusible tape in side the shoulder seams to prevent stretch.

facing

  • Stiches and finishes: I sewed the top using a longish (3.0) straight stitch and serged the seam allowances together to finish.
  • Finished the sleeve with a 1.5″ hem allowance plus a couple rows of topstitching.

closeup

It’s such a cozy and warm top, and I love the silhouette.

front 1

Parting shot: I was the woman out on the street in her robe last night, taking pictures of the lunar eclipse. Spectacular event! Moving clockwise from the top left photo:

tiles

Ciao! Coco

 

Blackwood and Ogden…

front 1

Small post…I made a couple favorites with fun variations. The cardigan is the Blackwood from Helen’s Closet, and the cami is my button front version of the True Bias Ogden Cami.

Fabrics: Cardigan, Pastel Rose Tan Poly/Rayon/Lycra Distressed French Terryt, and the Cami, Ashen Gray/White 100% Cotton Tweed Shirting by Halston. Both are from Fabric Mart.

Mostly pics, but earlier posts with details are here and here.

back

side

 

I used clear buttons on the cami, something less than 1/2″, from La Mode. The ‘weight’ really suits this shirting. I also put them only 2″ apart, 8 in all.

buttons

Recent sewing aspiration, I’m making a couple ‘Tom Selleck’ shirts for my son, as a prelude to a dress shirt. He wears Robert Graham shirts and asked if I can do something similar. What a compliment. Bye for now – Coco

 

True Bias Ogden Cami button front!

front closeup

I could not resist the opportunity to draft the True Bias Ogden Cami with a button front. Yes, I was inspired by the Style Arc Portia Top. Kind of irresistible. My woven muslin of the original pattern fit perfectly, but, IMHO, it lacked that little bit of detail that would make the pattern pop.

line art

BTW, below I’ve described my changes, but if it’s more comfortable for you, the Portia is a nice alternative.

style arc portia

So, my top. A couple pics on Emile, front and back. I didn’t mess with the back because it works so well for me – I have a broad back and the pattern gives me that extra ease.

This was so easy to do. I ordered some Ralph Lauren black cotton batiste from Fabric Mart specifically for this top. Batiste is a little lighter and more supple than lawn and a bit heavier than voile.

front

Sewing notes: I made changes to the front and the front lining.

  • Front first – I added 1/2″ at the center front for the button band overlap, and 1 1/2″ for the button band facing.

new facing

  • The lining – I added 1/2″ at the center front to match the front changes.

lining

  • And I cut fusible tricot lining for the new front button band, 1″ wide.

adding facing

  • Of course I practiced my buttonholes and stitches. I loosened the tension on my upper thread for straight stitching, but was OK with the buttonholes once I found the right size.

buttonhole practice

This top is so perfect with my cardigans. Off to the grocery…

off to the grocery

Winner! bye for now – Coco

True Bias Ogden Cami in knit fabric

knit front

First, please excuse my headless photos! I stayed up until 4 this morning watching season 4 of The Sopranos. And I did the same for the three previous nights, seasons 1 – 3. I don’t plan to stop this madness until I’ve watched them all. I have the complete series on DVD, but the display in live HD is much better.

BTW, I’m feeling a little self-conscious about my scleroderma in these pics. I know that’s unnecessary, but it still happens 🙂

OK, project! As have so many sewists, I recently purchased the True Bias Ogden Cami.

line art

What a great top. My first muslin was in cotton calico, size 4, and it’s a perfect fit. My only change was to lengthen it by 1″.

Of course I had to try it in knit fabric! My first version was also size 4, and the décolletage is low

first

But it was fun. Because I was leery of the lining crossing my bust, I lengthened it by 5″, and used it as an outside layer. And I used rolled seams. Cute!

Nonetheless, it was back to the drawing board. Sewing notes:

  • For my second knit version, I drafted the cami in size 2.
  • The fabric is white hacci knit from Fabric Mart. It’s too sheer for this top, but I had a remnant, good for a muslin.
  • I lengthened the front and back by 1″, as before,
  • And also lengthened the lining by 3″ so that I can use it on the inside without a line across my bust area.
  • To strengthen the straps, I trimmed the seam allowances to be just a little more narrow than the straps. I used a pin to turn them, because tube turners kept going through the fabric. To reduce stretch, I topstiched both edges at about 1/8″.

strap

Back view:

knit back

Next up will be a Paro Cardigan in a really funky distressed French Terry! It’s finished, but I’m thinking I’ll brush my hair before I take pics…

Bye for now – Coco

True Bias Nikko top – a muslin

f3

OK, please do not laugh at my pants or sleepy face! Focus, people! a small post about my muslin of the True Bias Nikko Top.

I discovered this pattern only a couple days ago, and I love it! Lots of options, and the selling point for me, a nice mock turtleneck.

line art

The pattern description suggests that the back on the sleeveless versions is somewhat similar to a racer back. I didn’t find that to be the case at all. It has nice coverage and a ‘traditional’ silhouette.  BTW, the pattern includes facings for the armhole, but I simply trimmed away 3/8″, and used self-fabric binding.

b2

Kelli suggests using knit fabrics with about 75% horizontal stretch. So of course I did my muslin with a remnant of cotton/lycra jersey, only 40% stretch. Well, I could not begin to pull the turtleneck section over my head 🙂 I modified it to be somewhat wider, just enough to pull over my oversize noggin. In the future I will pay attention to the stretch factor!

f2

Cute, right? Has anyone else sewn this?

I’m off to find stretchy fabric (the sleeveless top requires only 1.3 yards in my size 10).

Bye for now – Coco