Nautical Blackwood Cardigan

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Such a great print! And perfect for a long Blackwood Cardigan.

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After three weeks of workmen in the house, finally they’re done. I slept for 11 hours last night, with not a thing on my mind.

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This super soft poly/lycra French terry is from Fabric Mart (and just sold out, they’re having a huge sale on knits). This is my second garment in poly/lycra French terry, and I am so impressed with it. Much nicer than cotton or rayon terry.

Just a few sewing notes:

  • I’ve made this wonderful cardigan about 8 times, both short and long. Yes, I love it. Thank you again, Helen!
  • I sew the Size Large (and I’m pretty small, it’s close-fitting).
  • As with my navy fleece version (here), I made a larger pocket and extended it onto the band and across the side seam.
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Top: True Bias Nikko in modal stretch jersey, Cali Fabrics

I just took a walk in the garden, it’s such a lovely day. It’s spring and everything is blooming.

My husky cherry tomato is suddenly over 6″ tall and full of bloom and babies.

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The orange jasmine trees (murraya paniculata) have been covered with flowers and even have some fruit. I had them trimmed about 6 weeks ago – they love a haircut. They’re not citrus, but, as with a citrus tree, trimming them stimulates flowering. And although they’re often mistaken for the mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius) that grows so rampantly in Hawaii, they’re not even cousins. I think the association arises from the orange-blossom fragrance that they share.

mock orange

And Ms. Guava is loaded with buds and starting to bloom.

guava

I hope everyone is enjoying a nice weekend. Ciao! Coco

Turtleneck knit maxi dress

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I’m so in love with this rayon/lycra knit fabric from Fabric Mart. It reminds me of a Jackson Pollock painting 🙂 So I held onto it for the perfect application.

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For this dress, I combined two favorite patterns: the True Bias turtleneck and the McCall 6559 maxi:

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I guess I could have just used the dress version from the Nikko, but I know the McCall maxi is a perfect fit for me. Putting the two together was super easy, I just fitted the upper bodice of the Nikko to the M6559 dress.

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Both of my patterns are size 10, and I’ve sewn both many times. More pics…

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It’s cool every day now, and I enjoy the warmth of the turtleneck and the sleeves. Plus I feel a little elegant wearing this dress. So pretty.

Ciao – Coco

Blackwood and Ogden…

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Small post…I made a couple favorites with fun variations. The cardigan is the Blackwood from Helen’s Closet, and the cami is my button front version of the True Bias Ogden Cami.

Fabrics: Cardigan, Pastel Rose Tan Poly/Rayon/Lycra Distressed French Terryt, and the Cami, Ashen Gray/White 100% Cotton Tweed Shirting by Halston. Both are from Fabric Mart.

Mostly pics, but earlier posts with details are here and here.

back

side

 

I used clear buttons on the cami, something less than 1/2″, from La Mode. The ‘weight’ really suits this shirting. I also put them only 2″ apart, 8 in all.

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Recent sewing aspiration, I’m making a couple ‘Tom Selleck’ shirts for my son, as a prelude to a dress shirt. He wears Robert Graham shirts and asked if I can do something similar. What a compliment. Bye for now – Coco

 

True Bias Ogden Cami button front!

front closeup

I could not resist the opportunity to draft the True Bias Ogden Cami with a button front. Yes, I was inspired by the Style Arc Portia Top. Kind of irresistible. My woven muslin of the original pattern fit perfectly, but, IMHO, it lacked that little bit of detail that would make the pattern pop.

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BTW, below I’ve described my changes, but if it’s more comfortable for you, the Portia is a nice alternative.

style arc portia

So, my top. A couple pics on Emile, front and back. I didn’t mess with the back because it works so well for me – I have a broad back and the pattern gives me that extra ease.

This was so easy to do. I ordered some Ralph Lauren black cotton batiste from Fabric Mart specifically for this top. Batiste is a little lighter and more supple than lawn and a bit heavier than voile.

front

Sewing notes: I made changes to the front and the front lining.

  • Front first – I added 1/2″ at the center front for the button band overlap, and 1 1/2″ for the button band facing.

new facing

  • The lining – I added 1/2″ at the center front to match the front changes.

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  • And I cut fusible tricot lining for the new front button band, 1″ wide.

adding facing

  • Of course I practiced my buttonholes and stitches. I loosened the tension on my upper thread for straight stitching, but was OK with the buttonholes once I found the right size.

buttonhole practice

This top is so perfect with my cardigans. Off to the grocery…

off to the grocery

Winner! bye for now – Coco

True Bias Ogden Cami in knit fabric

knit front

First, please excuse my headless photos! I stayed up until 4 this morning watching season 4 of The Sopranos. And I did the same for the three previous nights, seasons 1 – 3. I don’t plan to stop this madness until I’ve watched them all. I have the complete series on DVD, but the display in live HD is much better.

BTW, I’m feeling a little self-conscious about my scleroderma in these pics. I know that’s unnecessary, but it still happens 🙂

OK, project! As have so many sewists, I recently purchased the True Bias Ogden Cami.

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What a great top. My first muslin was in cotton calico, size 4, and it’s a perfect fit. My only change was to lengthen it by 1″.

Of course I had to try it in knit fabric! My first version was also size 4, and the décolletage is low

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But it was fun. Because I was leery of the lining crossing my bust, I lengthened it by 5″, and used it as an outside layer. And I used rolled seams. Cute!

Nonetheless, it was back to the drawing board. Sewing notes:

  • For my second knit version, I drafted the cami in size 2.
  • The fabric is white hacci knit from Fabric Mart. It’s too sheer for this top, but I had a remnant, good for a muslin.
  • I lengthened the front and back by 1″, as before,
  • And also lengthened the lining by 3″ so that I can use it on the inside without a line across my bust area.
  • To strengthen the straps, I trimmed the seam allowances to be just a little more narrow than the straps. I used a pin to turn them, because tube turners kept going through the fabric. To reduce stretch, I topstiched both edges at about 1/8″.

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Back view:

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Next up will be a Paro Cardigan in a really funky distressed French Terry! It’s finished, but I’m thinking I’ll brush my hair before I take pics…

Bye for now – Coco