True Bias Nikko top – a muslin


OK, please do not laugh at my pants or sleepy face! Focus, people! a small post about my muslin of the True Bias Nikko Top.

I discovered this pattern only a couple days ago, and I love it! Lots of options, and the selling point for me, a nice mock turtleneck.

line art

The pattern description suggests that the back on the sleeveless versions is somewhat similar to a racer back. I didn’t find that to be the case at all. It has nice coverage and a ‘traditional’ silhouette. ย BTW, the pattern includes facings for the armhole, but I simply trimmed away 3/8″, and used self-fabric binding.


Kelli suggests using knit fabrics with about 75% horizontal stretch. So of course I did my muslin with a remnant of cotton/lycra jersey, only 40% stretch. Well, I could not begin to pull the turtleneck section over my head ๐Ÿ™‚ I modified it to be somewhat wider, just enough to pull over my oversize noggin. In the future I will pay attention to the stretch factor!


Cute, right? Has anyone else sewn this?

I’m off to find stretchy fabric (the sleeveless top requires only 1.3 yards in my size 10).

Bye for now – Coco

Monday muslin V8499 pants


Sometimes I just want to take another look at a pattern. I first made the V8499 pants when I was much heavier, and I was trying Lagenlook styles. Thinking about it over the weekend, and having a couple yards of available Brussels washer linen, I decided to try a smaller size. So a Monday muslin ๐Ÿ™‚

First version:


Honestly, I don’t care for this style at the moment. But these pants are not wasted – they’ll be reworked as a straight leg pant. I would really like them in a corduroy for our brief winter. And those pockets are simply too good to ignore.

Undeterred, I’m about to cut out a True Bias Yari jumpsuit in Kaufman Essex linen, yard-dyed denim. I’ve enjoyed my espresso version so much.

And that’s Monday! BTW, the pattern has a super fun skirt as well, it would be great with boots and a short chunky sweater or jeans jacket.

line art.jpg

Bye for now! Coco

True Bias Yari Jumpsuit


And I love it ๐Ÿ™‚ I wore jumpsuits a lot back in the 80’s – ย they were perfect for travel and for wearing on our farms in Costa Rica. The Yari takes me right back to that time, but it’s a lot easier to wash and wear than the vintage styles.

I was cautious with the pattern because of the design elements and the potential for fit failures. And I read every review I could find. Other folks’ experiences are so helpful, and, in this case, kind of saved my soup. Initially, I contemplated adding an inch or more to the bodice (I’m 5’7″, and Kelli drafts for a 5’5″ model). Many sewers did that exact thing, and they ended up with a too-low crotch seam. This one factor led to my muslin, which I sewed with no changes to the pattern (here).


So cute!


Some sewing notes:

  • My fabric is Kaufman yarn-dyed Essex linen in Espresso, purchased from It’s 55%linen/45% cotton and weighs in at 5.6 oz/square yard. Great weight, body, and hand for this jumpsuit.


  • I started with View D, the long version with the extended shoulder. Once my shoulders were sewn, I trimmed and reshaped the armhole to suit me. The pattern has a sleeveless option, but I prefer a wider shoulder to balance the overall silhouette of the jumpsuit.


  • I opted for a self-fabric belt with a D-ring buckle. I don’t care for a lot of fuss on my clothes, so I avoided side tabs, side ties, or a waist tie.
  • I also drafted my pattern with the wide-leg option offered by Kelli in her tutorial (here). It’s really easy, and it doesn’t add to the fabric requirement.


Small details:

  • The finished shoulder, which is flat-felled on the right side, and a view of the bias binding on the armhole.

binding and shoulder

  • The lower button band area closed with hand-stitching, instead of top-stitching.

hand stitch

  • Inexpensive faux wood (or bone?) 5/8″ buttons from JoAnn. I used 6, spaced at 2 1/2″, being super careful not to have one under my belt buckle (more on buttons in an earlier post, here).


To close, here’s a shot with no belt!

no belt

Ciao! Coco

True Bias dreaming – the Yari


A rainy day spent cutting and taping. And thinking of the possibilities of the True Bias Yari jumpsuit.

This pattern went by me when it was released. Recent pics on Instagram got me!


I did lots of browsing and blog reading before I jumped. Indie patterns tend to be expensive, and this is no exception at $14 for the PDF version.

Having purchased and downloaded the pattern, I found myself out of printer ink and paper ๐Ÿ™‚ Normally I have backup inventory of both, but (1) printing the Grainline Felix dress wiped me out of paper, and (2) I got a new printer a couple months ago. And haven’t bought more ink.



BTW, this is a great inexpensive printer, $49.99, the Epson Expression Home 440. It’s fully featured, easy to use, and not kerflunked with web links and so on, as was my previous HP printer (drove me crazy)


dst 2


Anyway, I did an early early morning sprint to Office Depot.ย I don’t take a shopping trip lightly, because I don’t like to do it! I went with my first cup of Joe in hand.

Back to the pattern, ย I found two versions that clinched it for me. Both feature the wide-leg hack that Kelli has on her site (here).

From the Kelli, one that reminds me of all the pinafore-inspired jumpsuits being seen this summer:


And from the delightfully creative and talented Sophie at Ada Spragg, beautifully done with a waist casing:


I will be cautious! There are a bunch of critical fitting points, so I’ll do a muslin in stash cottons, just the shorts.

However – ordered this morning, pear Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen. This color is not easy to find, but ImagineGnats came to my rescue ๐Ÿ™‚


p.s. I do buy a lot of this Brussels Washer linen from, but they haven’t had this color in stock. Still, it’s a great shopping alternative. They have a wonderful inventory of Kaufman linens, both Brussels Washer and Essex.

Back soon! Coco