Vogue 9168 Kathryn Brenne dress – end of story

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And I mean it this time!

I’ve been messing with this dress since the third week of March. When I first wrote about it (here), I mentioned that it was well-drafted (it looked just like the envelope pic), but it was uncomfortable to wear. It was destined for a re-do in the fall. But it has been on the garment rack in the loft, and it’s been bugging me. So this week I took it on once more.

A pattern refresher – ALL of the pieces, except the sleeve, are cut on the bias. I actually cut my back bodice on the straight grainline as well:

I decided to (1) put back the original flutter sleeve – it’s perfection and will be re-used, and (2) raise the waistline. The sleeve business was easy, and they’re beautiful. The waistline adjustment was a terror!

I carefully removed the skirt from the bodice and got to work. And I re-worked it 4 times! This is a rayon crepe fabric, and all those bias cuts just kept on growing and growing. I just couldn’t get and keep a straight seam in the front bodice edge.

Even the final version shows a new dip since it was finished this morning (the arrow). Looking past that, the double pleats in the front bodice are very flattering. They fit more closely than the original pattern, because I crossed the center front a bit to raise the neckline.

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 The back is very pretty, no problems there.

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An inside look – the waist has a narrow casing  with 1/4″ elastic.

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I know there are ways to stabilize the waist – a buckram waist stay, invisible side zip, etc. but I can’t wear those against my skin, and am not about to wear a slip. This hot and humid Florida, and I’m into easy dressing.

I’m glad I continued to work with this dress, which is now officially out of the house. I’m done with bias cuts! but I learned a lot. I certainly know why all those movie star bias-cut dresses have unstructured, dipped and draped bodices.

To close – here’s the same fabric, in a different colorway, in the StyleArc Toni Designer Dress (posted here, way back in November). Much better marriage of pattern and fabric. And I love the colors!

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Okey dokey – I’m off to more fun stuff! Bye for now – Coco

 

 

Vogue 9168 – A cautious muslin

front

Despite our beautiful Florida spring weather – 78 degrees, windy, low humidity – I decided to use a very autumnal fabric for my a muslin of this interesting pattern by Kathryn Brenne. It’s a nice rayon crepe from Fabric Mart, but my investment was only $6.40 – I was willing to sacrifice it if this dress didn’t work for me.

I was familiar with the skirt, having used a version of it in my recent make of V8577. It’s big and bias-cut! This pic shows just one piece (two are used), on my 38″ x 72″ cutting board. It was such a pain to cut out, but it makes a beautiful skirt.

9168 skirt IG

The bodice is actually a fun project all by itself – lots of drape, bias cuts, slippery fabric, and pleats. And, of course, I just had to use ‘regular’ sleeves.

Note: Speaking of sleeves, I’m fully aware of the current mania trend for all kinds of creative sleeves. But I generally know what will work for me. It happens that I really like the flutter sleeves, but not on this print. And maybe a little longer.

bodice

The cut-on front facings are inspired, and they completely prevent an unwanted glimpse of the inside of the bodice. Great drafting.

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The bodice looks a little tipped in these pics, but it’s because I do an adjustment for a right sloping shoulder, something that Emile doesn’t have 🙂

back bodice

Just a few sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 14, and it’s close to a perfect fit. I forgot to add 1″ to the bodice, a usual adjustment for me with Vogue patterns, and had to ‘short’ the bodice allowance in the waistline seam.
  • The skirt is actually too short for me! It’s about 5.5″ longer at center back and center front than at the sides, puddles of fabric, and too short at the sides for the length I want. It happened on my V8577 version as well, and another reviewer mentioned the same thing, so it’s not my sewing or fabric. Bias-cut skirts are tricky. I’ll alter the skirt pattern next time I use it, it’s an easy fix:

alter skirt

  • To achieve a roomier casing for the waistline elastic (I used 1/2″, not 1/4″ elastic), I used a 1″ seam allowance to attach the skirt. Prepping the casing:

casing

  • I also drafted a 3″ wide facing for the back neckline. The instructions call for a bias strip, doubled, and applied to the neckline as a facing. And I think the latter would be a good way to stabilize the neckline on a really lightweight fabric like chiffon or challis. A facing is a reasonable alternative for a heavier fabric, as it adds fewer layers to the shoulder seam.

So, final thoughts. I enjoyed sewing this pattern. The drafting is so nice, and I think it delivers on its promise – my dress looks just like the pics and line art. However, I’m not enjoying the style on me or the feeling that it’s a little fussy to wear. The elastic shifts, the bodice blouses, the waistline slips up and down under the belt – it’s distracting. I don’t think I’ll sew it again. But I’m sure I’ll reuse elements of the pattern, and this dress will reappear as something else in the fall!

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Ciao! Coco

Vogue 8577 Retro Shirtdress – finished!

 

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And I really like it. This dress has certainly kept me occupied for the last week or so. I did a bunch of modifications, lots of  fitting, and a prodigious amount of ripping! A look at the original design:

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I changed the sleeves to be elbow length, and the skirt to an A-line instead of a very full circle. The latter was the biggest change, since I used the skirt from Vogue 9168, and as I discussed in my first post on this dress, I even changed that.  But it’s still very swishy.  I love the way it fits closely through the hips and then blooms.

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One of my biggest concerns in laying out this print was the placement of the large white element. I didn’t want it centered over my bum or the girls.

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I was also concerned about losing the design basics to the print. The dress has three pieces – bodice, middle band, and skirt – and matching things up would have disguised all those lovely elements. I did the layout in single layers so I could see where things were going, and it took forever. Honestly, this was my least favorite part of this project. I wanted to sew!

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Just a few notes:

  • I started with a size 14, and was happy with the fit as a starting place.
  • All the pattern pieces are laid out on the bias in the instructions. However, I cut the bodice pieces on the straight grain – only my skirt is cut on the bias.
  • This dress ended up with 15 buttons! My buttonhole plan:

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  • I also practiced the buttonholes on a swatch that was cut, faced and interfaced exactly like the dress – I didn’t want them to skew or stretch on the bias fabric. The pattern calls for horizontal buttonholes, but I don’t like the way buttons slide in horizontal buttonholes. So mine are vertical.
  • Hemming this took a lot of time and patience! I let it hang on Emile for 24 hours, then put it on to mark it. Oh my gosh, what a pain to do alone. That bias…I took up 2 5/8″ at the center front, 2″ at center back, and about 3/4″ at the side seams. But since I have a dropped right shoulder, nothing was symmetrical. Best thing – it’s done!
  • I love the fabric, which is a 5.5 oz linen/rayon blend from Fabric Mart. It has just enough weight and weave to handle the bias cuts and hang nicely without a lining. The suggested fabrics are gingham, washed silk and lightweight linen. I would never, ever, do this in light silk or charmeuse…

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When I first started this project, I did quite a bit of reading about sewing bias-cut fabrics. Some nice links:

Next up – I’m going to sew Vogue 9168 as soon as my fabric arrives. I’m in the mood!

Bye for now – Coco

 

Vogue 8577 – Sewing the retro shirtdress

large bodice
Fabric: linen/rayon blend, 5.5 oz, from Fabric Mart

What a project – I’m four days in and just finished the upper bodice. This has been so much fun, and a challenge on many levels. So much so that I’m thinking that 2 posts will be better than one loong one, and I know that not everyone wants to read the sewing details 🙂

This is an interesting pattern – it has a definitive retro vibe, even though it was released in 2009, and it’s just full of surprises…

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I worked on the pattern for 3 days before I cut my fabric. Most of this time was spent on the skirt. Even though the pattern calls for only 3 yards/60″ fabric in my size, it has a huge, voluminous, more-than-a-circle skirt. Many reviewers of the pattern mentioned how heavy the dress is once it’s lined. I think it could be heavy unlined! And when I laid out the pattern pieces, I totally disliked the skirt -the pocket, the volume, the back-gather overkill, the whole thing.

V9168 line artSo I pulled out the skirt from Vogue 9168. It has the same lines, it’s also cut on the bias, and it’s ‘calm’, not fussy.

Even better, it’s a maxi length, so I don’t have to add 11″ at the hem (V8577 is midi-length at it’s longest, and shorter than a midi on me at 5’7″).

I haven’t sewn V9168 yet, so I put a lot of work into the adaptation.

The V9168 skirt is shy of being a full circle, but I took down the volume a little more. My small change actually removes about 10″ from the width at my hip, from 62″ to 52″:

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This and the original skirt are both cut on the bias. Long bias seams can be tricky stuff, so I used the layout directions from V9168 (flipping of the pattern is really important, more below)…

Skirt layout

Yes! I got my edges right. I.e., the side seam comes together with opposing vertical grainlines:

Opposing grainlines in bias seam

Note: if bias boggles you, here’s a great link to Bias 101 by Marcy Tilton, Threads magazine.

On to the bodice. No lining! It’s too hot here. I can’t wear linen against my neck, waist, etc., so a simple binding around the neck was out. Instead, I drafted facings for the front neckline and lined the back yoke. To prevent bloom show-through, I used white cotton/poly broadcloth for my innards.

inside bodice front

Small irritant: the pattern uses the same armscye for both the sleeveless and sleeved version. Crazy. I trimmed and reshaped the armscye quite a bit, taking away from the shoulder and putting a little more curve in the front and back. I had to wait until the bodice was sewn together to make these changes, even though the need for them was apparent from the beginning.

inside bodice back

I’m getting jazzed now, and have the waistband ready for attachment this morning.

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Bye for now! Coco

V8499 and Tessuti Demi Pant- the combo mambo…

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Now that is a happy face!

I’ve been so busy – watching April and Oliver as they wait for their little giraffe to appear, and thinking about my recent makes of the V8499 and Tessuti Demi pants. And getting a new hot water heater. Yes, domestic needs do intrude sometimes on my sewing.

Revisiting the V8499 pants, I mentioned in my post that they might work better in a woven. So I tried them in a linen/rayon blend. Hmm. A little soporific…

Plain V8499

But the pattern has a great darted front and waistband.

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My affection for the Tessuti Demi Pants was still lukewarm pending more work.

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What an opportunity – I decided to combine the patterns using the linen pants as my target. Out with that boring hem!

Line art:

Line Art x 2

This was a simple change. I drew the Demi detail on the linen pants, cut, and sewed. Not bad!

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In fact, they’re really cute.

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I actually wore shoes for these pics, because they do make a difference in the how the pants look. These are my favorite Madden Girl gladiator cheaters. And I’m wearing my Sewing Workshop Trio Top, hemmed and buttoned (I’ve become a bit fond of the top, collar and all). I love love the back on the Trio, and the upper arm coverage…

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A note on my fabric: it’s a 55% linen/45% rayon blend from Fabric.com, the charcoal colorway. It’s very nice, and has a perfect rumple with no shine (I’ve found that blends that reverse the content – 55% rayon/45% linen – tend to drape more, have fewer slubs, and have a slight sheen).

Both blends ravel! so I serged the cut ends of the yardage before putting it through the washer and dryer 3 times. I also serged around all my cut pieces before I started sewing. It’s so easy to lose the seam allowance to a healthy ravel on linens.

Fabric

I think that’s the end of this particular saga. All that remains is to order some more of this lovely fabric and make another pair. I like them 🙂

Ciao! Coco