V1644 Kathryn Brenne New Orleans jacket

That jacket – I’m so in love with this pattern and this fabric, STOF France New Orleans cotton duck (Fabric.com). My peek on my last post:

For me, this project was all about working the print and the pattern so that I ended up with a reflection of my style while accenting this gorgeous print and the beautiful jacket design.

Details on the print – I spent about 9 hours placing the pattern pieces, with single layer layouts, so that the predominant ladies and all the lovely backgrounds were highlighted in a balanced way. I drafted a complete second set of pattern pieces for everything to make this easier.

Sewing notes:

  • As on my muslin (here), I sewed a straight size 12.
  • I narrowed bottom of back, 1/4” at CB bottom cured into waist area to remove flare I don’t need. 
  • I also removed front dart inside the princess seam, as I have a small bust and do not need the shaping. You can google this change, I used a tutorial for mine.
  • I added 3” to sleeve for full length with a 1.5″ hem.
  • I also used another pattern to narrow the 2-piece sleeve to the hemline, which was very otherwise very wide.
  • I used only 3 buttons, which extends the front lapel fold a bit and shows a cami or shell. No snaps and so on as on the pattern.
  • I used Hong Kong seam finishes except inside sleeve and armscye, which are serged.
  • About Hong Kong finishes – I end mine well within a hem allowance or interfacing that goes over them, which reduces bulk in seams. The pic below is the seam allowance into the neckline and into the hem allowance.
  • I also drafted a back neckline facing, which releases the collar seam and flattens the fabric flow to the back upper bodice. Remember – when you add a binding to a convex curve, push it out a bit so the it folds over nicely. It’s the opposite of what you do on a concave curve, such as a neckline.

More pics!

I really love this jacket, and the entire project was really engaging.

Ciao! Coco

Vogue 1644 Kathryn Brenne jacket

Such a delightful project with a pattern from a favorite designer.

I really enjoy Kathryn Brenne designs. There is always a bit of detail and opportunity in her patterns. I ordered V1644 as soon as I saw it online.
I’ve been thinking of doing a short jacket, something interesting for church (yes, all the women in church tend to flash their stuff, myself included. Not to mention that it is freezing in there, and a jacket or shawl is a must. I miss it terribly for many reasons and look forward to the time we can resume our church activities).

Meanwhile, I will keep on sewing!

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed a straight size 12 with very few changes.
  • My fabric is Bokeh cotton/linen denim from Moda, purchased at Hawthorne Fabrics. It’s 70% cotton, 30% linen, and it’s not really a canvas. I laundered it 3 times to remove sizing and allow for shrinkage before I cut the pattern. I love it!
  • Having the benefit of a couple of pattern reviews, I reduced the flare in the center back seam. With a rather flat fantail, I don’t need it.
  • Having a small bust, I removed the bust dart in the front princess seam. I thought about taking out some of the curve in the seam, but after basting, I was happy with no change.
  • I went crazy with Hong Kong finishing on the seams, using lightweight cotton/poly broadcloth.
  • The jacket has 3/4 length sleeves, to which I added a ruffle for a full length! After narrowing the bottom of the sleeve, I cut a 17″ x 5″ strip, folded it in half, gathered it, and attached it to the sleeve hemline. I really like this!

My thoughts are with everyone, and I hope you have some nicely distracting sewing projects in play. For now, Coco

Vogue 9237 flight of fantasy spring dress

Sometimes I just want to have some fun. As in ignore my age and absolutely (resolutely) run away from tourist’s polyester shorts/tops, and the ubiquitous leggings, t-shirt, and sneaks cop-out! Yes, I said that 🙂

This is not a new pattern, but it caught my eye because of the back ruffle detail.

Pattern from BMV.com, it took 15 days to arrive. Ridiculous…

I am always up for a little back sass…

I read lots of reviews, and a couple things stood out: the neckline is high and the armscye/sleeve is a bit uptight. Appreciating all that great input, I made just a few changes.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size Medium, just because I have a broad chest and back.
  • I removed quite a bit from the ‘tent’ design lines below the armscye.
  • My armscye and sleeves are drafted using the Grainline Studio Felix dress. It and the Allie Olsen Highlands dress fit me so well in this area.
  • The underarm sleeve seam is finished at 4″.
  • I eyeballed and redrew the back and front neckline to something more flattering and comfortable. I can pull this over my head, so no need for the back closure on the pattern.
Fabric: From Hawthorne Fabrics, Hedgehog metallic black cotton, Ombre confetti metallic black, both by Moda. Bling!
  • The ruffle on the pattern is very full. I removed 7″ from the width, and, to combat a side-seamline pouf, started my gathers about 2.5″ in from the side seam.

I love the great little pockets, stitched down on the front to prevent flopping. Included in the pattern…

It’s short! but it’s comfy and fun. Following this pic session I hosed down my porch and screens (green pollen this time of year), and I’m really liking this little style departure.

Ciao! Coco

Vogue 1315 Knit dress revival

Oh, it feels so good to be sewing again! Not costumes or gifts, but, yes, selfish sewing 🙂

And this is a true revival – I made this dress way back in 2013, loved it, put on weight, lost weight, let my hair go white, and now it’s back. I’m just glad I kept the pattern!

This dress has delightful pockets, really stunning and beautifully drafted. Although the construction is much like a puzzle, the instructions are clear, and everything works out in the end.

Fabric: olive green heather cotton/spandex jersey from Girl Charlee. It’s a 10 oz. midweight knit and perfect for a dress.

Sewing the bodice is much the same as sewing a tee shirt. I admit, though, that I don’t use the double-layer funky neck band that comes with the pattern. Mine is simply bound with 1 3/4″ wide fabric cut across the stretch of the knit.

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 10 (my 2013 version was size 14, primarily driven by my bust measurement, pre-removal of breast implants. Happy day, that decision).
  • I managed the dress with only 2 yards of 55″ wide fabric, nothing left over but plenty yardage for the pattern.
  • The dress is quite short, so I added 5″ to the length of the skirt and used a 3/4″ hem allowance.
  • Edited to include: And I reworked the front neckline using the Grainline Studio Lark tee. Raised it a couple inches. Thank you, Becky, for noting this is your comment!
  • No more changes!

Photo notes:

  • It’s 58 degrees outside and I was freezing! Like those porch flip-flops?
  • I have a huge 14’w x 24’l screen porch that is largely empty but has all new Florida-bug proof screening. I bought 4 Christmas cactus because they are available now, and I was gifted my first orchid for Christmas.
  • Missing from my furniture shipment: my metal plant shelf unit and my watering can 🙂

Happy New Year!! Bye for now, Coco

Republique du Chiffon – le Manteau Gerard

g5

One of those perfect projects.

I purchased this jacket pattern from Republique du Chiffon 5 years ago, and somehow it got lost in my stash. I love the 80’s vibe of the jacket, which is why I picked it up in the first place. Check it out – there are some beautiful versions to view online.

The line art below is from the currently available version. Mine, the original PDF, has applied pockets, which I really like on this casual semi-grunge style.

line art

g11

I used a cotton/tencel/lycra light-weight denim from Fabric Mart. The fabric has enough weight that I was able to skip the lining. It’s warm enough here in south Florida without any additional layers inside.

g3
Top: Named Saraste shirt

g6

g10

Sewing notes:

  • I drafted the size Small, and it’s a beautiful fit on my frame. However… I don’t see the PDF on the pattern site now, only a printed/envelope version. I noticed sizing changes that would definitely impact my purchase decision – the small is too small, the medium is too large. Sorry to be a bummer, but I might not go for it at 17 euros plus shipping from France.

Screen Shot 2019-04-27 at 4.38.05 PM-down

  • I removed the ‘cocoon’ curve from the side seams, the silhouette is just not my thing.
  • The facings and hem bands are generous and perfect for finishing the jacket without lining.

inside
Inside view

  • I used 3/4″ buttons and buttonholes with rounded ends. Honestly, I didn’t even open the buttonholes because I won’t wear this buttoned. But I like the additional visual detail.

g buttonholes

  • Small tip on making a perfect front curve on the bottom front edge…clip, check, clip, until the curve is even and flat with no lumps when it’s turned.

g curve

So, here’s lucky. Fabric Mart sent me an additional 8″ in length – I got the end of the bolt. I had just enough to make the matching capris I’m wearing in these pics. Now I have a casual suit as well 🙂

g1
Pants: Vogue 8584 loose leg pants, View A

g2

I’m not sure what I’ll sew next. Being the good Fabric Mart shopper that I am, I have 5 fabrics coming my way next week. Perhaps I’ll do a pair of True Bias Hudson pants, since I have a beautiful black matte jersey tempting me from my stash. I wear my leggings – Love Notions Sabrina Slims, Hudsons, and Pattern Emporium Harem pants – so much that I just keep on making them 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Summer pants in Kaufman Essex linen

f1

Back to my favorites – Vogue 8584 wide-leg pants paired with a delightful Robert Kaufman indigo Prairie Essex linen/cotton blend from Hawthorne Threads.

V8584 lines

fabric

Not only are they super easy to sew and wear, they’re also a perfect showpiece for my challis Paper Theory Olya Shirt (post here).

b1

Sewing notes:

  • This is modified size 12 (I adjusted the crotch length and waist-to-hip fit last year).
  • No pockets! This print is two busy to add them as a design element.
  • I used a 2″ waistband fold, and a 2″ hem allowance.
  • Essex is only 43″ wide, and I used most of 3 yards. In a wider fabric, 55″ or more, I use 2.5 yards for these pants.

More pics…

 

f3

I want more, the print has me jazzed! BTW, if you’re interested in Essex blend fabrics, check out Hawthorne Threads for a huge selection.

Bye for now, Coco

Short Blackwood and pinwale pants…

front

Oh, I love this season! Holiday cheer and chilly weather…perfect for a couple favorites that have kept me busy and happy in the loft.

First off, my first short Blackwood Cardigan (Helen’s Closet). I’ve sewn many in the longer length, last one is here.

bwood emile

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed my usual size large (bust measurement is only 33″) and again added 1″ to the length.
  • This fabric is a super soft midweight rayon French terry knit from Cali Fabrics. They have such a nice selection of this fabric…worth a look.
  • Truth time: it has so much horizontal stretch that I used my walking foot (not something I do often).

************

Next up, I paired the cardigan with pinwale corduroy Vogue 8584 loose pants.

V8584 lines

I’ve been sewing this pattern for years, all the variations. Love it. I think it’s out of print, but I’ve seen it on Etsy and eBay.

back

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 12, with no changes.
  • This beautiful stretch pinwale corduroy is from JoAnn (97% Cotton, 3% Spandex). My store had only two selections, but there are many more colors and prints available online. The little bit of stretch is great.
  • Hard to see, but there, I used the cute curved pockets sewn across the hip (goony pic follows).

show pkts

  • Prepping the pockets took almost as much time as sewing the pants. But I really enjoy details. Not in the mood? just square the bottom corners.

pkt 1-side

  • Finishes – the hem and waistband casing:

band-down

I have another pair in the rust corduroy I used for my Utu skirt, also from JoAnn. BTW, a couple washings really soften this pinwale.

Up next, I ordered 3 beautiful shirting fabrics, so there are more Named Clothing Saraste shirts in my future!

Bye for now – Coco