Republique du Chiffon – le Manteau Gerard

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One of those perfect projects.

I purchased this jacket pattern from Republique du Chiffon 5 years ago, and somehow it got lost in my stash. I love the 80’s vibe of the jacket, which is why I picked it up in the first place. Check it out – there are some beautiful versions to view online.

The line art below is from the currently available version. Mine, the original PDF, has applied pockets, which I really like on this casual semi-grunge style.

line art

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I used a cotton/tencel/lycra light-weight denim from Fabric Mart. The fabric has enough weight that I was able to skip the lining. It’s warm enough here in south Florida without any additional layers inside.

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Top: Named Saraste shirt

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Sewing notes:

  • I drafted the size Small, and it’s a beautiful fit on my frame. However… I don’t see the PDF on the pattern site now, only a printed/envelope version. I noticed sizing changes that would definitely impact my purchase decision – the small is too small, the medium is too large. Sorry to be a bummer, but I might not go for it at 17 euros plus shipping from France.

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  • I removed the ‘cocoon’ curve from the side seams, the silhouette is just not my thing.
  • The facings and hem bands are generous and perfect for finishing the jacket without lining.
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Inside view
  • I used 3/4″ buttons and buttonholes with rounded ends. Honestly, I didn’t even open the buttonholes because I won’t wear this buttoned. But I like the additional visual detail.

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  • Small tip on making a perfect front curve on the bottom front edge…clip, check, clip, until the curve is even and flat with no lumps when it’s turned.

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So, here’s lucky. Fabric Mart sent me an additional 8″ in length – I got the end of the bolt. I had just enough to make the matching capris I’m wearing in these pics. Now I have a casual suit as well 🙂

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Pants: Vogue 8584 loose leg pants, View A

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I’m not sure what I’ll sew next. Being the good Fabric Mart shopper that I am, I have 5 fabrics coming my way next week. Perhaps I’ll do a pair of True Bias Hudson pants, since I have a beautiful black matte jersey tempting me from my stash. I wear my leggings – Love Notions Sabrina Slims, Hudsons, and Pattern Emporium Harem pants – so much that I just keep on making them 🙂

Ciao! Coco

Summer pants in Kaufman Essex linen

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Back to my favorites – Vogue 8584 wide-leg pants paired with a delightful Robert Kaufman indigo Prairie Essex linen/cotton blend from Hawthorne Threads.

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Not only are they super easy to sew and wear, they’re also a perfect showpiece for my challis Paper Theory Olya Shirt (post here).

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Sewing notes:

  • This is modified size 12 (I adjusted the crotch length and waist-to-hip fit last year).
  • No pockets! This print is two busy to add them as a design element.
  • I used a 2″ waistband fold, and a 2″ hem allowance.
  • Essex is only 43″ wide, and I used most of 3 yards. In a wider fabric, 55″ or more, I use 2.5 yards for these pants.

More pics…

 

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I want more, the print has me jazzed! BTW, if you’re interested in Essex blend fabrics, check out Hawthorne Threads for a huge selection.

Bye for now, Coco

Short Blackwood and pinwale pants…

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Oh, I love this season! Holiday cheer and chilly weather…perfect for a couple favorites that have kept me busy and happy in the loft.

First off, my first short Blackwood Cardigan (Helen’s Closet). I’ve sewn many in the longer length, last one is here.

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed my usual size large (bust measurement is only 33″) and again added 1″ to the length.
  • This fabric is a super soft midweight rayon French terry knit from Cali Fabrics. They have such a nice selection of this fabric…worth a look.
  • Truth time: it has so much horizontal stretch that I used my walking foot (not something I do often).

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Next up, I paired the cardigan with pinwale corduroy Vogue 8584 loose pants.

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I’ve been sewing this pattern for years, all the variations. Love it. I think it’s out of print, but I’ve seen it on Etsy and eBay.

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 12, with no changes.
  • This beautiful stretch pinwale corduroy is from JoAnn (97% Cotton, 3% Spandex). My store had only two selections, but there are many more colors and prints available online. The little bit of stretch is great.
  • Hard to see, but there, I used the cute curved pockets sewn across the hip (goony pic follows).

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  • Prepping the pockets took almost as much time as sewing the pants. But I really enjoy details. Not in the mood? just square the bottom corners.

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  • Finishes – the hem and waistband casing:

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I have another pair in the rust corduroy I used for my Utu skirt, also from JoAnn. BTW, a couple washings really soften this pinwale.

Up next, I ordered 3 beautiful shirting fabrics, so there are more Named Clothing Saraste shirts in my future!

Bye for now – Coco

Maxi sweatshirt hoodie!

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At last, it’s cool enough to actually wear this hoodie that I made in the spring! It’s 60 degrees, and I’m off to JoAnn with a fistful of coupons.

This adorable polka dot cotton/poly sweatshirt fabric showed up on FabricMart last March, and I snatched it up. I made the jacket in May, and I’ve resisted the temptation to post it until now.

My inspiration was something I found on Pinterest – apology, I didn’t keep the shop name.

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I sewed a couple muslins with pieces of various patterns, and I settled on a combo of the Vogue 9275 jacket and the hood from McCall 7634.

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Vogue 9275
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McCall 7634

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Sewing notes:

  • I sewed size Medium in the jacket.
  • The hood from M7634 size 12 fits perfectly.

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  • While the Vogue jacket is fairly long, I added 2” to length.
  • I drafted front and back neckline facings so the inside of fabric would not show when I don’t zip it (picky).
  • And I drafted a cute pocket, 9″h x 8″w, as I’m not a fan of kangaroo pockets.
  • My zipper is a #5 plastic jacket zipper from Wawak .

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  • Also from Wawak, a zipper pull!

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  • Not sure of the length I needed, I ordered a 36″ zipper and shortened it to fit. These are my jewelry tools, perfect for removing zipper teeth!

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  • At the bottom, I added a 2″ wide band that pretty much echoes the cuff. The width of the band is only slightly less than the width of the hem, to give it the sweatshirt vibe.

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So so cute! I loved wearing it today. f1

Bye for now! Coco

Monday muslin V8499 pants

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Sometimes I just want to take another look at a pattern. I first made the V8499 pants when I was much heavier, and I was trying Lagenlook styles. Thinking about it over the weekend, and having a couple yards of available Brussels washer linen, I decided to try a smaller size. So a Monday muslin 🙂

First version:

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Honestly, I don’t care for this style at the moment. But these pants are not wasted – they’ll be reworked as a straight leg pant. I would really like them in a corduroy for our brief winter. And those pockets are simply too good to ignore.

Undeterred, I’m about to cut out a True Bias Yari jumpsuit in Kaufman Essex linen, yard-dyed denim. I’ve enjoyed my espresso version so much.

And that’s Monday! BTW, the pattern has a super fun skirt as well, it would be great with boots and a short chunky sweater or jeans jacket.

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Bye for now! Coco