V8962 Valentines Skirt

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Just a quick little post today, prepping for Valentines Day. One of my favorite special days…

This skirt is done in a heavy weight Ponte from Stylish Fabrics, a perfect weight for a knit skirt. This was also my first purchase from this fabric vendor, and I’m very pleased with the fabric, shipping, and service.

What a great color, and the fabric is heavy enough that my tucked-in top doesn’t announce itself 🙂

This is my second version of the V8962 skirt, and it’s quickly becoming a favorite. It just suits me, and I love all the opportunities to highlight the seven panels with topstitching on the seam allowances.

v8962 line art

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Wow, that back vent is great. In a ponte knit, it finishes beautifully.

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I made this version exactly as my first (here). So just a few more pics. I feel really pretty and trendy in this style! And it speaks to my new year’s resolution to add form-fitting designs to my closet.

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Top: Grainline Studio crew-neck Lark Tee

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Happy Valentines Day!

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Ciao! Coco

V8962 Pencil skirt

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This is the first time I’ve sewn a straight skirt! And I love it.

I bought Vogue 8962 four years ago, really for the tunic, but I decided the wrapped front seam didn’t excite me. In the end, I kept the pattern so that I could use the cowl collar on something.

v8962 line art

However, new year and new resolutions. Among other things, I’m determined to try some new designs and make something other than A-line dresses, long cardigans, and loose tunics.

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This skirt was inspired by the leopard spot fleece jacket I’m making. I started thinking about how to style it. Jeans of course, and leggings. And then came that moment – how about a short black skirt. This morning I rummaged the stash, found a yard of black ponte, and, just a few hours later, I had a great skirt.

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Sewing notes:

  • Much to my disgust, the pattern provides no information on finished measurements. Not on the envelope and not on the tissue. Lots of measuring later, I determined that I’m somewhere between size 12 and 14 (I have 37.5″ hips), so I cut the 14, with 3/4″ taken out of the center front panel.
  • My skirt finished at 40″ at the hip (about 12″ below the natural waistline). It doesn’t cup my backside, thank goodness, but it does have nice slim lines.
  • This is a fast sew! I sewed everything on my sewing machine with a straight stitch. It could be done on a serger, but a caution: it has seven panels and keeping the seams flat is really important. A wavy seam would not be pretty 🙂
  • I added 2″ to the length at the hemline (I’m 5’7). The skirt is simply not as long as it looks on the envelope. I didn’t move the vent down, it’s perfect where it is.
  • And speaking of the envelope, it suggests that the skirt tapers in at the knee, but it doesn’t. It would have to be very tight to do that.

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I’m feeling proud of myself, and I definitely want more!

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Ciao! Coco

Favorite Brenne Pants

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Every once in a while (usually Jungle January time), I start craving a bit of animal print in my wardrobe. I ordered this cotton/lycra leopard sateen from Fabric Mart in December, and I had a good laugh when it arrived. I had sewn it before!

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Vogue 9114, post here
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Vogue 9217, shorts!

The stretch sateen is a perfect weight for these pants, Vogue 9217.

Brenne pants line artI’ve sewn these pants 5 times now, and as usual made just a couple tweaks. Every fabric is different, and so am I after losing a lot of weight.

  • I took 3/4″ from the side seams, back and front, at the hip curve.
  • And took about 1/2″ out of the curve in the back rise.
  • Because I used a straight hem and wanted a longer length, I added 3″ to the hem allowance.

For the topper, I looked through all my patterns for something that would tuck nicely and be a little form-fitting. The Lark Tee is perfect, and, strangely, I haven’t sewn it since I made the cardigan variation a couple years ago (post here).

Lark cardi

Lark Tee Line Art

 

 

This is my first Tee version, and, gosh, I really like it! I used the crew neck version, top left in the line art, with long sleeves.

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I made just a few adjustments, but nothing extraordinary:

  • The tee has 1/4″ seam allowances (read that as use a serger). Because I do flat-felled shoulders on all my garments to make them comfortable, I added 3/8″ to the shoulder seams.
  • I didn’t use the neck band, opting for binding instead. I just like it better.
  • I knew from sewing the cardi that the sleeve pattern is a bit short for me, so I added 1″ to the length.
  • And the tee is long! I raised the hem by 3 1/4″ – tucked in, it finishes midway down my hip.

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Here are a couple pics with my black batwing tee, M6203 (post here). I think I like black more than white with these pants.

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 Ciao! Coco

Pants and jackets…

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It’s double-oh early on Cyber Monday! But I think I’ve already contributed all I can to the Black Friday and small business Saturday sales, so I’ll blog to keep myself out of trouble 🙂

I finished my Burda peplum jacket – it was intended as a toile, because I used remnants of a corded denim, but it’s definitely wearable. Great jacket…more details on my first post, here.

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Burda Style Collarless Peplum Jacket 11/2016 #125

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I’m planning a second version in black ponte, with long sleeves. A stable fabric with a little weight is perfect for this pattern (imagine a brocade – would be stunning).

The jacket is styled with wide leg pants done in ITY knit, a fun abstract print in grey, white, and black.

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Feeling brave, I used V9217, a Kathryn Brenne pattern that’s actually intended for woven fabrics (and I’ve sewn 3, first post is here). I love the lines and the flat front on the waistband. And it worked great in ITY!

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I used a straight hem and the slanted pocket from the Pattern Emporium Harem Pants. I use this pocket all the time, because it has a 1-piece pocket bag and doesn’t gape open at the hips.

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Fabric: Monochrome Printed ITY, Fabric Wholesale Direct

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Last but not least, I also sewed a new Tessuti Megan Cardigan in grey ponte from Fabric Mart.

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I made a black ponte version back in August, and at the time, I thought it might be a little small. But that was really my mind working on me – I love wearing it.

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As with my first version, I raised the hemline by 4″, and used a 1″ wide band (the original band is quite narrow).

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This was all fun sewing, and I have outfits!

Bye for now – Coco

Vogue 9253 Deep-V Kimono Dress muslin

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OK, work with me! My funky muslin, of a pattern that’s had a lot of air time lately – that Red Carpet Ready Vogue 9253. And since it’s muslin time, no makeup or hairdo, so head shots are limited 🙂

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Initially, I passed on this. I’ve been doing a lot of kimono-style dresses this summer, and the ones I’m sewing are very similar – except for that neckline. However, when I saw the McCalls-sponsored sewing challenge for the pattern, I picked it up. And I also got 6 yards of fabric for it.

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Nothing is hemmed in these pics…

That was the extent of my participation in the sewing challenge, but I’m grateful for all the reviews and pics it generated . They were so helpful – you can take a look with tag #V9253 on Instagram and Facebook.

I got thrown off schedule by my fabric. I thought it was cotton shirting. Apparently I don’t read every word of a fabric description, or I read the words to suit my purpose! This is polyester charmeuse – could there be anything worse to sew (or wear in Florida, for that matter). I didn’t touch it for a couple weeks, but finally decided to use it for a muslin.

SA prepAwful. The fabric ravels for no reason. More if it’s touched! This dress got tossed twice, just because fun was leaving the room.

Every single cut edge had to be serged before I could start sewing. I don’t mind that part – I was just afraid of losing my seam allowances before I got it all secured.

Back to the pattern. After my online research, and working with the pattern tissue itself, I decided on two changes:

1 – The deep V-neck is simply not something I’d wear. So I re-drafted it, using other V-neck dresses as a guide.

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front bodice

2 – The waistline and tie look pretty in the envelope pictures, and in pictures on the Vogue site. However – I noticed on other versions that, in the front, the tie tends to end up several inches below the bodice seam. That would really bug me, because IMHO, the dress looks too short in the torso. (If you love it, please don’t be offended!) Anyway, I dropped the bodice, front and back, by a couple inches, which is not unusual for me. And I removed the front rise, so the tie could fall naturally on top of the seam.

back bodice

These changes actually work very pretty well for me. The neckline is comfortable, although I think I’d like it about 1″ lower, and the tie falls easily over the slightly raised waist (I’m using an Obi-ish belt that I keep in the loft for fittings. From V8807).

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I did a few more tweaks – adjusted various pleats and darts, and reshaped the skirt to fit my bodice, little stuff that took hours 🙂

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Conquered this! and I don’t know if I’ll ever sew it again. Maybe.

Ciao – Coco