Fabric stash madness…

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Breaking the rules…I had a fantastic shopping spree this morning at Fabric Mart. They have their pre-cut fabrics and fabric kits on sale.

This might be my best fabric sales/order ever. A little over 24 yards of fabric for $54, with shipping!

stash

Included in there, 3 patterns. The Sewing Workshop Eureka top and skirt,

tsw eureka

McCalls 6608 woven and knit skirts,

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And New Look 6150 ruched knit tops (perfect for tucking into pants and skirts)!

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I love Fabric Mart. Great service, shipping, fabric, and specials. I’m getting dangerous with all the fabric and pattern additions to the loft this year. Wowser!

Ciao! Coco

V8962 Pencil skirt

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This is the first time I’ve sewn a straight skirt! And I love it.

I bought Vogue 8962 four years ago, really for the tunic, but I decided the wrapped front seam didn’t excite me. In the end, I kept the pattern so that I could use the cowl collar on something.

v8962 line art

However, new year and new resolutions. Among other things, I’m determined to try some new designs and make something other than A-line dresses, long cardigans, and loose tunics.

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This skirt was inspired by the leopard spot fleece jacket I’m making. I started thinking about how to style it. Jeans of course, and leggings. And then came that moment – how about a short black skirt. This morning I rummaged the stash, found a yard of black ponte, and, just a few hours later, I had a great skirt.

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Sewing notes:

  • Much to my disgust, the pattern provides no information on finished measurements. Not on the envelope and not on the tissue. Lots of measuring later, I determined that I’m somewhere between size 12 and 14 (I have 37.5″ hips), so I cut the 14, with 3/4″ taken out of the center front panel.
  • My skirt finished at 40″ at the hip (about 12″ below the natural waistline). It doesn’t cup my backside, thank goodness, but it does have nice slim lines.
  • This is a fast sew! I sewed everything on my sewing machine with a straight stitch. It could be done on a serger, but a caution: it has seven panels and keeping the seams flat is really important. A wavy seam would not be pretty 🙂
  • I added 2″ to the length at the hemline (I’m 5’7). The skirt is simply not as long as it looks on the envelope. I didn’t move the vent down, it’s perfect where it is.
  • And speaking of the envelope, it suggests that the skirt tapers in at the knee, but it doesn’t. It would have to be very tight to do that.

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I’m feeling proud of myself, and I definitely want more!

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Ciao! Coco

New patterns – fun ahead

vogue 1New patterns. I always browse the seasonal collections to see if anyone has come up with something new and interesting.

Honestly, I have so many patterns already, which I mix and mash with abandon, that I don’t really buy a lot of new ones.

But recent releases from McCalls got my attention, because they remind me of a couple things I’ve been keeping in my inspiration folder.

First up, and admittedly very trendy this year, paper bag waist pants. The pattern, M7726:

line art pants

I’m leaning toward view D, the relaxed version, in a bottom weight fabric, and put together some nice colors:pants colors

macys linen pants

 

Linen is another possibility, particularly for our warm seasons (three of them!), but it does have a much different vibe. I like the pink, and I think kiwi green would be awesome.

Second pattern, M7634. Is this the 70’s girl coming out in me? Here’s the line art, but think long hoodie.line art hoodie

Check out all the options in this pattern. I was amazed when I saw it. I’m planning to work with the long top, might add a zipper, and I’m not sure which pocket I’ll use.

Colors!

hoodie colors

So far all I have is the patterns, but I’m keeping an eye on fabric sales. Meanwhile, here’s a peek at my last animal print of the season. Almost done!

spots

Bye for now! Coco

Burda Style Wrap Coat and minky madness

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What was I thinking!

I’ve really been enjoying my fleece fabric adventures this year. So I went for the full Monty. During my recent trip to Orlando, I managed a visit to the Sewing Studio Super Store in Maitland. And in the Annex, I found this black minky plush, a real bargain at $4 a yard. Irresistible.

Note on the store: high-end knit and quilting fabrics, ditto the trims and so on, and more built-to-purpose specialized sewing machines than I’ve ever encountered in a fabric store. The Bargain Annex is spotty, and I felt lucky to go home with a piece of fabric.

The store put it in a big bag, and once home, I pulled it out to an absolute flurry of fleece fluff. As a starting point, here’s a pic of my constant companion during this project:

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I already had a pattern in mind, BurdaStyle 09/2016 #119 – a beautiful design, simple and elegant. I had recently worked on a muslin in sweatshirt fabric, so my confidence level was high.

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It’s so nice! I know it’s hard to see the details in black, but please squint a little.

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Things I love: those kimono sleeves, the oversized pockets, and the set-in collar. About the collar. No way would I use this minky for a cut-on shawl collar, one that is an extension of the front, because of the treacherous clips at the shoulder. There shouldn’t be crying in sewing…

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Sewing notes:

  • This is a challenging fabric because of the fluff stuff from cut edges. All my cut pieces went straight to the serger, and every single edge was serged before I even began sewing. Between my cutting area and the loft, I emptied my little vacuum twice. Even so, the fluff seemed to travel with me everywhere I went in the house! Takes patience…
  • I sewed a straight size 38.
  • Great fit!
  • I didn’t line the pocket, but I did face the top fold to stabilize it.
  • I shortened the length quite a bit. The original CB length is about 44″. I took off 5 1/2″. It just seems more balanced and interesting in the shorter length.
  • Incredibly, the coat has no front or neckline facing. I added both, self fabric without interfacing.
  • My sleeve and coat hems are a little less than 3/4″. I’ve found that a deep hem on fleece doesn’t always work well.

Machine settings:

  • I sewed all my seams with a long stitch (3.2 on my Juki) and topstitched with a 3.4 length.
  • And used a 90/14 ballpoint needle in my sewing machine. Also 90/14 universal needles in my serger.
  • I also decreased my presser foot pressure, from it normal 5 setting, to 2.

I had just enough fabric to make a neck scarf. This is hanging out on my sofa, it’s so warm on my neck.

scarf

I had just come home from the grocery when I took all these pics. It felt wonderful in that cold cold store!

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Will I ever sew minky again? Sure. It was very messy, but I really like this coat!!

Ciao! Coco

Favorite Brenne Pants

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Every once in a while (usually Jungle January time), I start craving a bit of animal print in my wardrobe. I ordered this cotton/lycra leopard sateen from Fabric Mart in December, and I had a good laugh when it arrived. I had sewn it before!

V9114 2016
Vogue 9114, post here
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Vogue 9217, shorts!

The stretch sateen is a perfect weight for these pants, Vogue 9217.

Brenne pants line artI’ve sewn these pants 5 times now, and as usual made just a couple tweaks. Every fabric is different, and so am I after losing a lot of weight.

  • I took 3/4″ from the side seams, back and front, at the hip curve.
  • And took about 1/2″ out of the curve in the back rise.
  • Because I used a straight hem and wanted a longer length, I added 3″ to the hem allowance.

For the topper, I looked through all my patterns for something that would tuck nicely and be a little form-fitting. The Lark Tee is perfect, and, strangely, I haven’t sewn it since I made the cardigan variation a couple years ago (post here).

Lark cardi

Lark Tee Line Art

 

 

This is my first Tee version, and, gosh, I really like it! I used the crew neck version, top left in the line art, with long sleeves.

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I made just a few adjustments, but nothing extraordinary:

  • The tee has 1/4″ seam allowances (read that as use a serger). Because I do flat-felled shoulders on all my garments to make them comfortable, I added 3/8″ to the shoulder seams.
  • I didn’t use the neck band, opting for binding instead. I just like it better.
  • I knew from sewing the cardi that the sleeve pattern is a bit short for me, so I added 1″ to the length.
  • And the tee is long! I raised the hem by 3 1/4″ – tucked in, it finishes midway down my hip.

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Here are a couple pics with my black batwing tee, M6203 (post here). I think I like black more than white with these pants.

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 Ciao! Coco