True Bias Ogden Cami button front!

front closeup

I could not resist the opportunity to draft the True Bias Ogden Cami with a button front. Yes, I was inspired by the Style Arc Portia Top. Kind of irresistible. My woven muslin of the original pattern fit perfectly, but, IMHO, it lacked that little bit of detail that would make the pattern pop.

line art

BTW, below I’ve described my changes, but if it’s more comfortable for you, the Portia is a nice alternative.

style arc portia

So, my top. A couple pics on Emile, front and back. I didn’t mess with the back because it works so well for me – I have a broad back and the pattern gives me that extra ease.

This was so easy to do. I ordered some Ralph Lauren black cotton batiste from Fabric Mart specifically for this top. Batiste is a little lighter and more supple than lawn and a bit heavier than voile.

front

Sewing notes: I made changes to the front and the front lining.

  • Front first – I added 1/2″ at the center front for the button band overlap, and 1 1/2″ for the button band facing.

new facing

  • The lining – I added 1/2″ at the center front to match the front changes.

lining

  • And I cut fusible tricot lining for the new front button band, 1″ wide.

adding facing

  • Of course I practiced my buttonholes and stitches. I loosened the tension on my upper thread for straight stitching, but was OK with the buttonholes once I found the right size.

buttonhole practice

This top is so perfect with my cardigans. Off to the grocery…

off to the grocery

Winner! bye for now – Coco

Paro Cardigan in distressed French terry

front 1

I enjoyed my tattoo Itch to Stitch Paro Cardigan so much during my Christmas visit with my son in Orlando – time to make another one.

Just to shake things up a bit, I used a ‘distressed’ poly/rayon/lycra French terry from Fabric Mart. What an adventure, this is truly a funky fabric.

back full

Distressed – the loop side is actually the front side, and it has patches of deconstructed threads, similar to distressed jeans.

screen shot 2018-12-29 at 5.52.09 pm

This made for some interesting sewing challenges 🙂

  • Before I did any sewing, I staystiched the cut threads on the edges of the pattern pieces. Using a ‘helper’ (my double hole threader) really helped.
  • I had to be gentle with the fabric to avoid catching the threads unintentionally. And I used a lot of basting since pins slipped out so easily.

baste baste

  • I decided to face the waistband with a lightweight woven fabric. Here’s a view before the facing – notice the drooping. It really bugged me.
  • After adding the facing – much better, and I like the added weight:

More pics:

side closeup 1

front 3

front 2

Update on my techno-gadgets: I took these photos with my new iPhone, first time! I haven’t conquered the subtleties of the camera, but I love the quality of the pics. It was also the first time I used my Arkon tripod phone adapter. This thing is really neat and so easy to use!!

tripod adapter

My dear boy turned 50 on Friday. Proud mom here…

david

Bye for now – Coco

 

True Bias Ogden Cami in knit fabric

knit front

First, please excuse my headless photos! I stayed up until 4 this morning watching season 4 of The Sopranos. And I did the same for the three previous nights, seasons 1 – 3. I don’t plan to stop this madness until I’ve watched them all. I have the complete series on DVD, but the display in live HD is much better.

BTW, I’m feeling a little self-conscious about my scleroderma in these pics. I know that’s unnecessary, but it still happens 🙂

OK, project! As have so many sewists, I recently purchased the True Bias Ogden Cami.

line art

What a great top. My first muslin was in cotton calico, size 4, and it’s a perfect fit. My only change was to lengthen it by 1″.

Of course I had to try it in knit fabric! My first version was also size 4, and the décolletage is low

first

But it was fun. Because I was leery of the lining crossing my bust, I lengthened it by 5″, and used it as an outside layer. And I used rolled seams. Cute!

Nonetheless, it was back to the drawing board. Sewing notes:

  • For my second knit version, I drafted the cami in size 2.
  • The fabric is white hacci knit from Fabric Mart. It’s too sheer for this top, but I had a remnant, good for a muslin.
  • I lengthened the front and back by 1″, as before,
  • And also lengthened the lining by 3″ so that I can use it on the inside without a line across my bust area.
  • To strengthen the straps, I trimmed the seam allowances to be just a little more narrow than the straps. I used a pin to turn them, because tube turners kept going through the fabric. To reduce stretch, I topstiched both edges at about 1/8″.

strap

Back view:

knit back

Next up will be a Paro Cardigan in a really funky distressed French Terry! It’s finished, but I’m thinking I’ll brush my hair before I take pics…

Bye for now – Coco

New year, new gadgets!

Screen Shot 2019-01-02 at 9.27.27 PM

I’ve resisted technology upgrades for ages. Perhaps because my degree is in computer sciences, and I spent 30 years managing technology projects. At home, I’ve looked for simplicity, always have. Of course I have many (4 or 5) current computers, but I’ve held out on two fronts. I’ve been using an old-fashioned flip-phone for almost 10 years!

71vUzN7hgKL._SY550_

But the charging port finally gave in and broke.

So I’m getting a new iPhone 8Plus.

And while I do have Directv, there are so many other things to enjoy with a streaming device. So I’ve ordered a Roku with composite cables (yes, my TV is a bit old, upgrade maybe next year).

 

f1a4bf89-6f5b-4ffd-8a0d-36beda545338_4.79c22e1ebd0f495e2bf9b51a995fc488

None of this would have been possible without the encouragement and considerable support of my wonderful son, daughter, and son-in-law. They have been after me for ages to do this. Thank you, guys!

I might be absent for a few days while I submerge myself in all this new stuff!!

Bye for now – Coco

 

Short Blackwood and pinwale pants…

front

Oh, I love this season! Holiday cheer and chilly weather…perfect for a couple favorites that have kept me busy and happy in the loft.

First off, my first short Blackwood Cardigan (Helen’s Closet). I’ve sewn many in the longer length, last one is here.

bwood emile

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed my usual size large (bust measurement is only 33″) and again added 1″ to the length.
  • This fabric is a super soft midweight rayon French terry knit from Cali Fabrics. They have such a nice selection of this fabric…worth a look.
  • Truth time: it has so much horizontal stretch that I used my walking foot (not something I do often).

************

Next up, I paired the cardigan with pinwale corduroy Vogue 8584 loose pants.

V8584 lines

I’ve been sewing this pattern for years, all the variations. Love it. I think it’s out of print, but I’ve seen it on Etsy and eBay.

back

Sewing notes:

  • I sewed the size 12, with no changes.
  • This beautiful stretch pinwale corduroy is from JoAnn (97% Cotton, 3% Spandex). My store had only two selections, but there are many more colors and prints available online. The little bit of stretch is great.
  • Hard to see, but there, I used the cute curved pockets sewn across the hip (goony pic follows).

show pkts

  • Prepping the pockets took almost as much time as sewing the pants. But I really enjoy details. Not in the mood? just square the bottom corners.

pkt 1-side

  • Finishes – the hem and waistband casing:

band-down

I have another pair in the rust corduroy I used for my Utu skirt, also from JoAnn. BTW, a couple washings really soften this pinwale.

Up next, I ordered 3 beautiful shirting fabrics, so there are more Named Clothing Saraste shirts in my future!

Bye for now – Coco