Vogue 9224 – done and different…

 

f2

Yes, I’m on a sewing roll. It’s because I’m feeling well, and life is quiet right now 🙂

I’ve been looking at handkerchief hem tunics for a while, and kept going back to Sandra Betzina’s Vogue 1477. Ruth’s versions at CoreCouture are beautiful, fun, and inspiring. But I’ve already failed with two similar garments and was doubtful about this one. Still, I had to have it. Bought it, checked out the pattern pieces for the twist front, and put it away.

v1477
Vogue 1477 Line Art

More looking, and I found Vogue 9224. It’s described as a handkerchief hem tunic, but everything else requires some creative thinking. The envelope pics don’t seem to match one another, no measurements are provided for the finished garment, and I couldn’t find a single review of the pattern on the web. Perfect!

v9224-line-art
Vogue 9224

But it really does have that hem!

f3

Pretty cute. And very long – the center back on the pattern piece comes in at over 35″.

b1

s1

Sewing notes:

  • I used a lightweight (5.9 oz) rayon/lycra jersey from Fabric Mart, with the recommended 2-way stretch (60%/40%).
  • I love the color, which is described as deep grape.
  • I sewed a straight size Medium, and I did not lengthen it!
  • To break up the sea of fabric in the front, I drafted a v-neck. I based it on View C, which has a cowl neck and gave me a good starting place. If I sew this again, I might raise the CF a bit more. That cowl neck must be very low…
  • And I finished the neckline with self-fabric binding instead of a neck band.
  • Caution: I used over 3 yards of 59″ wide fabric, versus the 2 3/8 yards indicated on the pattern. Perhaps because I laid out all the pattern pieces in one direction. I also had to work around some flaws in the fabric. This is another pre-cut (Craftsy has them as well), and I’ve found color variations in the solid rayon/lycra knits. Still, I picked it up for $6.40 total for 4 yards. Not bad and a great option for a muslin.

cf-view-c-modification

Once again I’ve styled this with white leggings, so that the details are easier to see. But I did take a couple pics with dark grey bottoms – I like the combo.

fgey

bgrey

This was an easy project and a fun foray into this hemline.

Bye for now! Coco

Working the Sewing Workshop Trio Top…

front

Such trepidation – a collar. I’m not a fan. But I’m always willing to check myself, particularly when working with such a nice looking pattern. Plus I’m in search of a short top that will work with my ‘shaped’ Lagenlook pants. The very small collar is a real draw – could it work?

Ummmm. No. My opinion (the one that really counts) is that collared shirts make me look like I have a chicken neck. Scrawny. Arising from any button-front with a yelp that says ‘look at me – skinny neck, big head’.

That said – Emile is modeling for me today. But she is exactly my size, so the proportions and promise are all there.

It’s such a nice shirt. Beautifully drafted, with informative and sensible instructions that make it a great project for advanced beginner and beyond.

trio-top-line-art

That collar…

collar-2

It’s just beautiful. And for a collar, not so hard to construct. I don’t enjoy sewing collars with bands, but this one only took me about 100 hours – LOL. On the inside – the facing is really well done, no wrinkles in the fit or wearing. The full facing is really critical, since it means that the inside looks as good as the outside, if the shirt is opened to a lower button.

collar-1

The sleeve – Linda Lee drafted the shoulder, and extension into a dropped sleeve, with a curve over the outside top of the shoulder. That makes all the difference in how this sleeve works. It doesn’t stick out at all. Really nice.

sleeve

My favorite design detail, and one that I will draft into something else really soon, is the back yoke. It’s a dropped and gathered insert – just lovely.

back-yoke-2

On the inside – the insert’s not at all difficult to finish: serge the edges, topstitch them, and voila – prettiness…

back-yoke-1

A few sewing notes:

  • This runs VERY large. I did a lot of flat measuring and ended up sewing the size XS. Which is over 10″ of ease for my 35.5″ bust. I cannot imagine wearing a larger size (I’m a Vogue 12, StyleArc 10). Importantly, the shoulder, neck, upper back, and upper bodice fit really well.
  • I only deviated from the pattern in one area: I did not band the sleeves. The band would have put 6 layers of fabric in the sleeve edge, which I thought would stiffen it too much. Instead, I serged the side seam/sleeve edge, hem to hem. Then I stitched the side seams, turned in the sleeve 5/8″, and topstitched around the sleeve area.
  • For reference, this muslin is actually made with bleached muslin from Fabric.com. Check this out – I ordered 1 yard of 118″ wide fabric, and got an extra 6″. It didn’t matter but it felt good:

end-of-bolt

It’s all done except the hem, but I think I’ll let Emile wear it for a while while I work on the Trio pants. This is my second Sewing Workshop pattern, and I think Linda Lee’s designs and drafting are wonderful.

Happy Saturday! Coco

Valentines dress and a peek…

img_0071

There’s just something irresistible about Valentines Day…

Every year I’m inspired to make something pink or red, definitely a bit flirty. In January I found this Fiesta Fabrics Petunia Garden rayon/spandex jersey knit at Fabric Mart and fell in love. It’s sold out on Fabric Mart, but Craftsy has it in stock in two colorways. It’s a nice weight for a dress at 8.8 oz and 60% x 60% stretch.

I used ‘my’ version of V1297, a cute dress by Sandra Betzina. The difference between hers and mine is that I did away with the piecing in the front and back. Such a quick sew!

img_0070

Of course I wore it on Valentines Day – and got compliments!

Here’s a peek at my current project, Vogue 9224, a long tunic with handkerchief hems.

In these two pics, I’m wearing it inside out, the hems are unfinished, and the exposure is lightened so I can see the details better. I find it really helpful to stop and take a couple pics to get an idea of where a new pattern is going…

first-tryon-1

I’m liking it!!

first-tryon-2

I’m pumped to finish it today and get some nice photos so I can share.

Bye for now! Coco

Vogue 8499 – Adventures in sewing…

f4

I’ve been feeling so brave. And here’s another chapter in my Lagenlook journey. Pants.

Here’s the inspiration for my latest make, the Oska Topsy Trousers (Oska has wonderful Lagenlook styles – I want them all). These are done in a cotton/linen blend. Cute, right? Even better, Oska makes recommendations on styling their garments. For these pants, ” a great combination partner for short straight, long narrow or moderately swinging tops”.

oska-trousers-2

I think Marcy Tilton’s V8499 pants come really close. Like the Oska trousers, they have a flat front waistband, with elastic in the back for wearing comfort, they’re ankle-length, and have that characteristic little balloon in the line of the leg. Vogue has styled theirs with a short boxy top as well.

 

I don’t have any short boxy tops – my Willow top was always too small, and it’s gone. But I do have some patterns I can use, if I decide stay with these pants. A couple more pics…I love those deep funky pockets! And I apologize for the weird exposure – all these light colors, including my hair, make it hard to get a balanced photo with my little camera.

f3

 

b1

b2

A few sewing notes:

  • I made View B, the shorter look, in size 12. This is down one size for me in Vogue pants, because a lot of sewists cautioned that these pants run really large. Actually, I could easily do the 10.
  • My fabric is a midweight (13 oz) cotton/poly/spandex French terry twill from Girl Charlee. It has 4-way stretch, which is nice for knit pants, and holds the lines of the pattern really nicely.
  • That’s it – I didn’t change anything!

I also made a pair in poly/rayon ponte from JoAnns, to match my brown/cocoa striped top. No pic of them together – even though the browns match perfectly, the styling is just all wrong. Which means I’ll probably crop the top! In this pic I’m just wearing a white knit, hitched up in front to show the pockets.

brown-1

I wish I could find a decent line drawing of these pants. Marcy Tilton’s patterns have such nice detail and finish. On these,

  • There are front darts to keep the front nice and flat, so they don’t bunch up around the waist and would work really well with a short top.
  • The pants have 4 pieces, not 2.
  • Two darts in the front calf area form the modified pouching effect and narrow the pant to the ankle. Perfect.
  • The waistband sews together beautifully – flat front to elastic back. I’ve seen this done before in a very clumsy way. This one works without a lot of fuss or bulk in the side seam.
  • Everything, every seam and dart, is topstitched. I love this look.

Soooo…here’s what I think. They’re nice pants, easy to wear, and fun to sew. I think I’d really like them in woven fabric, in a smaller size, worn with a boxy top (more like the example from Oska). I can’t go very far into the layered look that is often adopted with Lagenlook styles. It’s just too hot in Florida, even in winter.

I also think I might be an inveterate slim-pant person…here’s the same grey top, which is a modified Hemlock Tee, with favorite Sabrina Slims pants:

jj2

jj1
Wonder Woman pose…

Next up? Well, I’m waiting for some patterns to arrive in the mail. I’m really enjoying trying new styles, even if I do use up a lot of fabric 🙂

Bye for now – Coco

Bits, bobs, and busts…

betzina-v2-1

A little catch-up on things I’ve been making, but haven’t blogged. Some are repeats and some are just the normal flow of muslins and messes!

The first one, above, is a second version of Vogue 1297, the Sandra Betzina Lagenlook knit dress (first one here). I love this. The fabric is from Girl Charlee – it’s a lightweight (7 oz) cotton/rayon/lycra blend. And it has all my favorite places to visit! The ladies at JoAnn’s were very complimentary and put my ‘business card’ on their bulletin board. I was so surprised – that really felt good.

Another repeat, this time of the StyleArc Toni Designer Dress. As with my first version, I used rayon crepe from Fabric Mart. The only change is a slight extension of the sleeve, to hide a bit more of my ancient upper arms… Great pattern.

sa-toni-v2

Turning to follow-ups on recent adventures, the Weird Science pants (Vogue 1453) really did make nice PJ bottoms, once I removed the ankle pleats. I added a topper based on the Wiksten tank. Both are in a very lightweight rayon/spandex French terry from Fabric.com – perfect for cool weather.

pj1

I continued to work on my Lagenlook cardigan, my attempt to copy McCalls 6168. Here’s my first version…

cocos-lagenlook-cardi

And I think I ruined it! I raised the center front and back a couple inches, which deepened the side detail. But I like my original much better, and plan to make another in ponte di roma (have you seen the beautiful and affordable new pontes at Cali Fabrics?).

cardi-final

Not everything is a repeat. I also tried out a new pattern, the Frankie Dress from Tessuti Fabrics. It looks so cute in their version – fresh and easy to wear. It’s also very similar to about 4 other patterns I already have, but it’s fun to sew something new. This time I knew I would get a hand-drawn pattern, because it’s my 3rd Tessuti acquisition. Yes, the clumsy line art below is a precursor of the pattern.

frankie-line-art

I used a grey and brown cotton/rayon/poly jersey from Girl Charlee, a nice weight at 7 oz. I don’t like the color combo very much, so it was a good choice for a muslin. The only change I made (kind of major, really) was redraft the entire bodice and sleeve using a pattern that fits me well. Tessuti’s armscyes are small, and the sleeves are narrow. And I don’t care for the high boat neck in the pattern. So I guess I used the skirt!

Scary pic follows. Well, it scares me. This is the ‘long’ length from the pattern.

frankie-1

Just awful. Out of curiosity I pinned the front up to the knee, and it’s much much better. But I wasn’t in love.

frankie-2

So I cut it! It was a great opportunity to further my Lagenlook-drafting skills. I have absolutely no bottoms that match this top, so black it is. I was actually a little happier than I look in this pic.

frankie-final

Parting shot: Ms. Crab Spider has been busy in the guava tree again, this time after some very strong storms that really cleaned out the trees. Her web was so pretty with the late afternoon sun shining through her home.

spiderweb

It’s almost the weekend – I hope it’s safe and peaceful for all. I’ll be finishing a quilt project, I’ve been cold in this chilly Florida weather. Such a wuss…

Bye for now! Coco