Vogue 9253 Deep-V Kimono Dress muslin

~ Coco

w1

OK, work with me! My funky muslin, of a pattern that’s had a lot of air time lately – that Red Carpet Ready Vogue 9253. And since it’s muslin time, no makeup or hairdo, so head shots are limited 🙂

envelope

Initially, I passed on this. I’ve been doing a lot of kimono-style dresses this summer, and the ones I’m sewing are very similar – except for that neckline. However, when I saw the McCalls-sponsored sewing challenge for the pattern, I picked it up. And I also got 6 yards of fabric for it.

s1
Nothing is hemmed in these pics…

That was the extent of my participation in the sewing challenge, but I’m grateful for all the reviews and pics it generated . They were so helpful – you can take a look with tag #V9253 on Instagram and Facebook.

I got thrown off schedule by my fabric. I thought it was cotton shirting. Apparently I don’t read every word of a fabric description, or I read the words to suit my purpose! This is polyester charmeuse – could there be anything worse to sew (or wear in Florida, for that matter). I didn’t touch it for a couple weeks, but finally decided to use it for a muslin.

SA prepAwful. The fabric ravels for no reason. More if it’s touched! This dress got tossed twice, just because fun was leaving the room.

Every single cut edge had to be serged before I could start sewing. I don’t mind that part – I was just afraid of losing my seam allowances before I got it all secured.

Back to the pattern. After my online research, and working with the pattern tissue itself, I decided on two changes:

1 – The deep V-neck is simply not something I’d wear. So I re-drafted it, using other V-neck dresses as a guide.

bodice

front bodice

2 – The waistline and tie look pretty in the envelope pictures, and in pictures on the Vogue site. However – I noticed on other versions that, in the front, the tie tends to end up several inches below the bodice seam. That would really bug me, because IMHO, the dress looks too short in the torso. (If you love it, please don’t be offended!) Anyway, I dropped the bodice, front and back, by a couple inches, which is not unusual for me. And I removed the front rise, so the tie could fall naturally on top of the seam.

back bodice

These changes actually work very pretty well for me. The neckline is comfortable, although I think I’d like it about 1″ lower, and the tie falls easily over the slightly raised waist (I’m using an Obi-ish belt that I keep in the loft for fittings. From V8807).

f1

b1

I did a few more tweaks – adjusted various pleats and darts, and reshaped the skirt to fit my bodice, little stuff that took hours 🙂

w2

Conquered this! and I don’t know if I’ll ever sew it again. Maybe.

Ciao – Coco

16 thoughts on “Vogue 9253 Deep-V Kimono Dress muslin”

  2. I could not understand the blogsphere fascination with this pattern, Avery dramatic style I labeled as ,” look at my boobs cause my hips are covered in yards of fabric” And where does one wear this style in real life? Your version is actually very lovely. So much better with the raised neckline. Even though the fabric was not fun to sew, the print and the drape make this dress so elegant looking on you.

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    1. Thanks, Audrey. I agree about the pattern, plus it’s not really a new design. There are bunches of almost identical patterns out there, for much less than the cost of a vogue pattern. Honestly, I just thought the challenge would be fun 🙂

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  5. I also recently made up this pattern and reviewed it on my blog on August 09. (Www.artfulblasphemy.wordpress.com) –I was horrified by the way they wanted it finished at the neckline so I drafted facings instead. I also think the tie would work much better if it were simply attached at the front instead of the back, because you are right, it droops. I might even stitch it down across the front to keep it in place. Sashes are always tricky IMO and I often skip them altogether. Keeping the original neckline also meant I could eliminate the zipper; always a win!

    I also chose a slippery, resistant, raveling fabric and like you, had to serge like crazy to stop it evaporating. The dress is lovely, but I’ll go for a silk or lawn next time.

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    1. I really enjoyed your blog post and think your idea to connect the sash at the front is brilliant. I had also thought of using a chain stitch loop at the back and side seams to keep the sash in place. In the end, just too much fuss for me. Like you, I used facings on the neckline – the Vogue way is so not pretty.

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  6. The colors of the fabric look gorgeous on you, but it sounds like a nightmare to sew. I will be staying clear of any poly charmeuse. Thanks for the warning.

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  7. I loved the fabric until you said it was poly yuk. Yea, the deep V made me pass by this one. I know it can be changed (like you did), but why, when there is so many patterns on the market. At least it looks really good on you and I do still like the print. Wear it in the winter? Those cold 70 degree days that you have.

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  8. Coco…always up for a challenge! I like your idea of tossing the dress because the ‘fun’ was leaving the room. Sometimes it’s either you or the garment..one has to take a break. I do admire your ability to see things through to the end.

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    1. Thank you, Fran. Oh – I really am like a dog shaking a toy. Can’t let go…but this project really ate up my sewing time and kept bugging me. So yesterday I bagged the dress and remnants, closed my eyes, and dropped the bag in the garbage cart…

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