Knits – Finishing an extended shoulder

on emile
Fabric: cotton/lycra jersey from Fabric Mart

It’s almost summertime, and I’ve been sewing sleeveless dresses – but with an extended shoulder. I like the look and coverage that the little bit of added fabric provides. Since I’m doing it sooo much, and because I’m terribly picky about details, here’s my approach.

To give credit where it’s due, I learned this from V9275, the tunic top. I’ve sewn it several times,  and I love how the armhole is finished:

Screen Shot 2018-04-28 at 5.13.24 PM

My example is my modified version of M6559, sewn 4 times this spring. I just love wearing these dresses around the house, and with a topper, out and about.

Fabric: ITY from Cali Fabrics

Have you ever sewn a short kimono or cap sleeve, and simply run out of fabric and ease to turn the hem at the top of the side seam? Aaargh…Here’s a rescue approach.

  • My pattern draft has a 5/8″ hem allowance for the armhole hem and a funky extension to where it meets the side seam. The Vogue pattern uses the same approach.I mark my seams, and then serge all the way around the armhole after I’ve joined the shoulders:


  • The markings are important, because I stitch the ‘wing’ on my sewing maching, and then clip to the pivot where the armhole and side seam meet.

sew and pivot

  • Next step, I sew the side seam. I serge mine, and I turn the armhole seam allowance out of the way at the top (see, that clip is really needed).

side seam

  • A little trimming and pressing,

trimmed pivot


  • And look how nice the armhole hem allowance looks!

trimmed and ready

  • I topstitch the hem very close to the edge, working from the inside,

ready to stitch

And I love the finish.


I hope this is useful, maybe it will save someone from under-arm-seam-crunch frustration!

Bye for now – Coco

14 thoughts on “Knits – Finishing an extended shoulder

  1. Thank you!! As a beginner, it is frustrating when I come across situations just like this. It’s hard to keep trying when you end up with less than adequate results and have no idea how to correct them. I just ordered V9275 (on sale with free shipping thru 29 Apr), so thanks to you I’m excited to try again. YAY!

    Liked by 1 person

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