It’s almost summertime, and I’ve been sewing sleeveless dresses – but with an extended shoulder. I like the look and coverage that the little bit of added fabric provides. Since I’m doing it sooo much, and because I’m terribly picky about details, here’s my approach.
To give credit where it’s due, I learned this from V9275, the tunic top. I’ve sewn it several times, and I love how the armhole is finished:
My example is my modified version of M6559, sewn 4 times this spring. I just love wearing these dresses around the house, and with a topper, out and about.
Have you ever sewn a short kimono or cap sleeve, and simply run out of fabric and ease to turn the hem at the top of the side seam? Aaargh…Here’s a rescue approach.
- My pattern draft has a 5/8″ hem allowance for the armhole hem and a funky extension to where it meets the side seam. The Vogue pattern uses the same approach.I mark my seams, and then serge all the way around the armhole after I’ve joined the shoulders:
- The markings are important, because I stitch the ‘wing’ on my sewing maching, and then clip to the pivot where the armhole and side seam meet.
- Next step, I sew the side seam. I serge mine, and I turn the armhole seam allowance out of the way at the top (see, that clip is really needed).
- A little trimming and pressing,
- And look how nice the armhole hem allowance looks!
- I topstitch the hem very close to the edge, working from the inside,
And I love the finish.
I hope this is useful, maybe it will save someone from under-arm-seam-crunch frustration!
Bye for now – Coco
Ooh thanks. Pinning this for sure.
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And that post went straight into the Bookmarked bar.
Thanks Coco.
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oh, good tip! I just finished the sleeves on M 7571D and while I am happy with them, your method would work better. Thanks!
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Thank you for this wonderful under-arm tip. I will certainly be using it often.
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Thank you!! As a beginner, it is frustrating when I come across situations just like this. It’s hard to keep trying when you end up with less than adequate results and have no idea how to correct them. I just ordered V9275 (on sale with free shipping thru 29 Apr), so thanks to you I’m excited to try again. YAY!
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I’ll try that! thanks!!
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Coco, I can’t find M6559 anywhere on the web. Might it be a typo? Thank you.
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Hi Kathie. McCalls 6559 is out of print, but copies are available on Etsy. Try googling with ‘mccalls 6559’.
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Ahhh, thanks!
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That’s timely because I’m thinking of making another Style Arc Toni which has exactly that type of shoulder and I always found it fiddly to hem. Thanks!
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Good tip. Thanks for sharing.
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That is a really neat finish. It’s all about thinking ahead (something I don’t always do).
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Thank you. I just fought this problem tonight. By the way, I LOVE the print placement on the first dress.
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Fabulous tip! It looks so nice and neat!
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