Vogue 9217 – Kathryn Brenne – Wonderful

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I’m in pants heaven. I love this pattern!

From Kathryn Brenne, and I’ve found no reviews, so perk up… Great pieces. A shell, a reversible jacket, and these pants. This post is all about the pants.

v9217 lines
Pattern link on BMV

Another view of happy me.

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So much to talk about, but check out the ‘dolphin’ hems (usually seen on jogging shorts, so really new for me).

dolphin hem
Fabric: Multi-stripe Cotton Ikat from Fashion Fabric Club…totally misnamed, because it’s a jacquard!

I did a muslin of these pants last week, wrote a post about them, and then decided it was just a dreary kind of post. But the muslin was so helpful – I had planned to sew the pants in this great cotton jacquard, and I didn’t want to blow it. A view of the muslin, and, BTW, it’s a nice view of how well this pattern would work for shorts (mine are in PJ rotation):

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Back to these new britches…

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Part of the challenge with this fabric was figuring out how to place the pattern. I didn’t want the dominant white stripe to be misplaced on the front or the back 🙂 So lots of single-layer cutting. I just did it with a good movie playing.

back

Some sewing notes:

  • I made the size Medium (12-14) with NO changes to the fit.
  • In an unusual move for me, I used packaged double-fold bias tape to finish the hems. IMO, it was much easier than working with bias strips cut from cotton broadcloth. Even so, I spent most of one day finishing the hems. Picky picky…but finish is really important to me, and I never mind the time or effort involved.

hem

  • The pattern doesn’t provide very much information about the finished garment measurements. Which can be frustrating! So I measured mine, straight size Medium:
    • Inseam 27″.
    • Outseam, below the waist, 39″.
    • Thigh circumference 28″.
    • Crotch 27″.  Front 12 1/4″, back 14 3/4″

The pants are pretty much straight up and down, so they can be shortened anywhere in the leg. And the rise can be shortened at the top edge (just be sure to move your pockets down as well if needed).

  • About that hem. I almost used a facing instead of the bias tape that the pattern uses. And I think it would be a reasonable way to finish them (although I love the taped hem). A suggestion on how to do it, simply draft the hem with its ‘natural’ seam allowance, and draft a facing to match. E.g.,

re-do hem with facing

  • The pockets provided with the pattern are standard in-seam pockets. But for pants, I really prefer a slant pocket that’s attached in the waistband. I used the pocket from Butterick 6296, but any similar pocket would work fine.

These will be my favorite summer long pants. Absolutely. I want more! Last pic of this happy woman. Photo-bomber Emile is sporting a Tessuti Megan Cardigan, finished last week, I’ll blog it soon. And my blouse is my recent camp shirt (B6296), cropped!

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19 thoughts on “Vogue 9217 – Kathryn Brenne – Wonderful

  1. Beautiful pants, Coco, and the taped hem is lovely and flattering. Would you mind telling us how tall you are? For me being short it helps me get a perspective on the pants might work with my height. Thanks.

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    1. Thanks, Bunny. I’m 5’7″, but don’t have particularly long legs – more in my torso. Which is one reason I like Brenne’s pants – the crotch is always deep enough! And her drafting is so very nice.

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  2. Perfect! Did I add this pattern to my recent purchases at Vogue sale? Off to check (or wait for the next sale….)
    Isn’t it the most satisfying thing when you make something and you love it? Make more

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    1. Thanks, Ruth. Oh, it’s wonderful when something works AND gets worn 🙂 Lately I’ve been re-making a bunch of things, which has also been interesting. I hope you try these pants – would look great on you!

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    1. Interesting! Actually, I really want to make the jacket, in something unexpected…denim, khaki twill, brocade, dupioni – there I go, things for which I have no venue! but I think the jacket is spectacular.

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  3. The pants are fabulous, as always (you are my pants guru! Hoping to work up the nerve to make some this summer.)–but that fabric! Just last night I was hunting some nice textured cotton to replicate a striped RTW top I’ve been admiring, and look! YOU had it all along. Shoulda known, since we have the same taste in fabric. :b Found it on the Denver/FFC website–great price! Thanks!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. How wonderful! and just last night I was reading your fantasy historical sewing blog. See, it’s meant to be! I think I have to order some more of this fabric before it’s gone, 4 colorways, it’s such a nice fabric. Loved hearing from you 🙂 coco

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Thank you for stopping by! comments are welcome and appreciated - Coco

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